Bubbles Rising: My Immersive Journey at Method Oregon
This was my first time in Oregon—and it most certainly will not be my last. The sun-dappled hills of the Willamette Valley came alive with the joyful pop and persistent fizz of world-class sparkling wine during the second annual Method Oregon Grand Tasting Weekend. As a wine communicator who lives for terroir-driven stories and sensory connections, stepping into this event felt like watching a region finally claim its voice in the glass. The cool-climate finesse, electric acidity, and pure site expression left me utterly captivated. More than the wines themselves, it was the spirit of community, the warmth of the people, the quiet innovation, and the open invitation to explore that left a lasting impression. This year marked a genuine milestone. Method Oregon expanded into its first full three-day weekend as a nonprofit founded by and for passionate sparkling winemakers—now 55 founding members strong—dedicated to establishing Oregon as a world-class traditional-method sparkling region. What is Method Oregon? The organization has created one of the most rigorous standards in the world for traditional-method sparkling wine. To carry the Method Oregon mark, wines must be 100% grown, produced, bottled, riddled, and disgorged in Oregon; made in the traditional method with a minimum of 24 months on the lees; and (beginning in 2029) sourced from vineyards using only organic inputs or LIVE-certified sites free of synthetic herbicides. Labels must also declare the AVA(s) of origin and the disgorgement date. These standards matter. In a category where language can be slippery, the Method Oregon mark offers clarity and confidence—a signal of quality, land stewardship, and authentic regional character. It elevates the entire category while protecting the very things that make Oregon sparkling distinctive: its brightness, its tension, and its profound sense of place. Welcome to Oregon Wine Country! No event would be complete without a proper welcome for those who had traveled far and wide to experience the best of what Method Oregon has to offer. The evening was delightfully casual—organizers from Broussard Communications and Sparkling School presenters gathered with us for intimate sips and easy conversation at The Pub in cozy McMinnville, a perfect gentle start before the weekend’s festivities truly began. Sparkling School with Panel at Vinovate We began with a welcome toast led by Rob Townsend of Vinovate Custom Wine Services/Radiant and Ambar Estate. Reception wines poured in Stölzle Lausitz Revolution White glasses set an elegant, intentional tone: Ambar Estate 2022 Blanc de Blancs, Arabilis 2021 “Sequence” Extra Brut, BANKE NV Brut, Flâneur NV Brut, Iterum 2019 Orchard House Estate Brut Nature, and St. Innocent 2022 Crémant d’Innocent. The light catching in the glasses felt like a quiet promise of what was to come. The State of Sparkling panel, moderated by Ray Isle (Executive Wine Editor of Food & Wine), featured Jeanne Feldkamp of Corollary, Eugenia Keegan of Jackson Family Wines, and Mark Vlossak of St. Innocent. Mark, one of the earliest Oregon producers of traditional-method sparkling, spoke of his deep attachment to the art of winemaking. Jeanne offered the simplest and most perfect truth of the weekend: “We love bubbles and that’s why we make them.” A dosage discussion with Thomas Houseman (Radiant / Vinovate) and writer Lyn M. Archer followed. Thomas compared dosage trials to fine-tuning a radio—listening until the wine snaps into focus. Lyn reminded us that every cuvée is a fingerprint, its personality a deeply personal choice. The room leaned in. We then moved through the production stations: tirage bottling with Andrew Davis (sampling Ambar 2025 Blanc de Blancs and Lytle-Barnett 2025 Blanc de Noirs base wines), riddling with Kate Payne Brown of Argyle (tasting the 2022 Vintage Brut and 2014 Extended Tirage Brut), and disgorging and dosage with Lee Beck (Corollary 2022 Cuvée One Rosé). Watching the process up close—the careful turns, the decisive moment of disgorgement—revealed both the rigorous discipline and the fleeting beauty of the craft. Bubbles Block Party at Argyle As evening settled over downtown Dundee, we shifted to Argyle—the pioneering house founded in 1987 by Rollin Soles in a former hazelnut facility. Long before Oregon sparkling became a movement, Argyle was already proving the Willamette Valley could produce traditional-method wines of true international stature. The atmosphere turned pure celebration. Rare pours from Argyle, CHO, Corollary, De Ponte, Domaine Willamette, Elk Cove, Gran Moraine, Irvine & Roberts, Lytle-Barnett, Lundeen, Quady North, Soter and others flowed freely alongside food-truck fare while DJ Jimbo kept the energy high and easy. Conversations spilled outdoors, glasses clinked, and the evening felt less like a formal tasting and more like a joyful gathering of friends who happen to make exceptional sparkling wine. A friendly game of pétanque closed the night on a perfectly sporty, lighthearted note. Grand Tasting at Domaine Willamette The heart of the weekend unfolded at Domaine Willamette, Oregon’s first facility dedicated exclusively to méthode traditionnelle. Nestled in the Dundee Hills at the Demeter-certified biodynamic Bernau Estate Vineyard, the property features an underground aging cellar, sweeping valley views, and gardens that invite lingering. More than 50 founding members poured alongside thoughtfully paired bites prepared by the Domaine culinary team. The energy was electric yet welcoming—conversations flowed as freely as the bubbles. Standout moments included meeting Rachel Rose of Bryn Mawr, Piper Underbrink of Privé, and Tatum Harloff-Frey of Pashey; tasting De Ponte’s unique Melon de Bourgogne sparkling from fellow Quebecer Isabelle Dutartre; discovering Thomas Sivilli’s oyster-bound cuvée; and a fascinating Crémant Rosé from St. Innocent. Discovery after discovery, each one adding another layer to the story of Oregon sparkling. Media & Producer Reception Hosted by Visit McMinnville in the event space at HiFi Wine Bar, this more intimate gathering captured the weekend’s spirit perfectly. HiFi is a soulful downtown McMinnville spot where wine, vinyl, design, and community converge. Makers and storytellers mixed easily in a warm, analog atmosphere that felt both curated and completely unpretentious—exactly the kind of place where real connections happen over a shared magnum glasses – a 1996 Argyle with Kate Payne-Brown, sublime Brooks Winery Ara Riesling 2023 and the energetic Soter
Remember, All Women Rise: Piper Underbrink’s 2024 Sparkling Red
Some bottles just speak. This one does—loudly, joyfully, and with purpose. That was my impression when I first tasted it at Method Oregon this past July alongside the winemaker herself, Piper Underbrink. The 2024 RAW R Sparkling Red Wine from Sealionne (produced and bottled by Privé Vineyard) is a vibrant, skin-contact méthode traditionnelle-inspired Pinot Noir sparkler from West Wind Vineyard in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. One glance at the back label and you already know you’re in for something special: “Remember, All Women Rise.” Ten percent of every bottle sold supports women in science. In the hands of winemaker Piper Underbrink, that message feels entirely genuine. The Winemaker & the Story Piper Underbrink took the helm at Privé Vineyard in 2020, stepping into the legacy of founders Mark and Tina Hammond. Privé, nestled in the Chehalem Mountains just outside Newberg, is a tiny, old-school Oregon estate famous for elegant, site-driven Pinot Noir from some of the oldest vines in the AVA (planted in the early 1980s). Piper, who began her career with harvests at Flowers on the Sonoma Coast and Joseph Phelps in Napa before diving into UC Davis coursework, has honored that classic style while gently evolving it. In 2021 she and her husband, architect Ben Stalker, purchased West Wind Vineyard—a 15-acre site of sedimentary soils on Ribbon Ridge originally planted by Cody and Marque Wright of Purple Hands. From that purchase, Sealionne Wines was born: a freer, brighter, more experimental expression of their own voices. The name nods to boat-building craftsmanship and adventure; the wines are designed to feel alive, acidic, and joyful. RAW R is pure Sealionne energy, made under the Privé umbrella. The Vineyard & the Winemaking West Wind sits between 300–800 feet on marine sedimentary soils. The fruit for this sparkling red comes from clones 777 and Pommard—two classic Pinot Noir workhorses that deliver structure, spice, and pure red fruit in the cool, windy microclimate of Ribbon Ridge. Piper’s notes tell the story best: inspired by méthode traditionnelle, the wine received 10 days of skin contact to extract that beautiful red pigment and gentle tannin, then spent a full year on tirage. Élevage was split 50% stainless steel / 50% neutral oak—enough texture without new-oak distraction. Dosage is a precise 2 g/L, keeping it bone-dry and electric. Disgorged February 2026, this is a young, vibrant bottle ready to celebrate. In the Glass A fine, persistent mousse carries a ruby-flecked wine that smells like summer in the Willamette: crushed raspberry, wild strawberry, blood-orange zest, and a whisper of rose petal, grounded by that classic Oregon Pinot earthiness—damp forest floor and baking spice. On the palate it’s pure energy. Bright red fruit dances across the tongue; the short skin contact gives just enough grip and color without weight. The low dosage and year of lees aging deliver a creamy texture balanced by laser-focused acidity. Cherry pit, pomegranate, and a savory, almost saline finish linger long after the bubbles fade. It’s serious enough for the table, playful enough for a picnic, and elegant enough to feel like a quiet toast to every woman rising. How to Enjoy Serve well-chilled. Pair it with salmon and berry salsa, duck rillettes, or a simple board of charcuterie and soft cheese. Or just pour it on a sunny afternoon and raise a glass to the women who make the wines—and the science—that move us forward. This is Oregon sparkling with heart, place, and a clear message. Piper Underbrink continues to prove that the next chapter of Willamette Valley wine is being written by thoughtful, bold hands. All women rise, indeed.
Easy Like Pomalo Frankovka Rosé Mornings
There are wines you analyze with notebooks and serious faces, and then there are wines that simply make you smile the moment you pull the cork. The Pomalo Wine Co. Frankovka Rosé 2025 from Slavonia, Croatia, is gloriously, unapologetically the latter. I spotted this bottle in the rosé section, and its vibrant watercolor label immediately drew me in: a cheerful couple by a VW bus, dramatic pink-purple rocks and sunset skies that feel like pure summer joy. “Pom Alo” in that bold circle? It’s playful, artistic, and exactly what this wine promises. One sip, and I was transported to that carefree “pomalo” state of mind. What Does “Pomalo” Even Mean? In Dalmatia, pomalo is more than a word—it’s a philosophy. Loosely translated as “take it easy,” “slow down,” “no stress, no worries,” it captures the laid-back coastal and island lifestyle. Think long meals with friends, barefoot evenings, and savoring the moment. “Fjakas” (those blissful hours of doing absolutely nothing) in liquid form. Pomalo Wine Co. was born from this spirit. It’s a beautiful collaboration between the Begović cousins—two winemakers from different worlds (one from the mountains of northeastern Slovenia, the other along Croatia’s Dalmatian coast) who discovered they were long-lost family from the village of Kozice. Teaming up with importer Vinum, they set out to create accessible, joyful Croatian wines that celebrate indigenous grapes, fresh expressions, and pure fun. No pretension permitted. “Wine has become a bit too elite,” one of the partners has said. “Wine is made to drink, to refresh, to have fun.” Amen to that. Discovering Slavonia Through a Glass While Croatia’s Dalmatian coast gets all the glamorous attention, Slavonia (Slavonija) in the continental east quietly produces some of the country’s most compelling wines. This is Croatia’s largest wine region—vast Pannonian Basin landscapes with rolling hills, river influences, and a true continental climate of hot summers and cold winters. The vines for this rosé come from the Srednjak/Feričanci area, where southwest-facing slopes and pseudogley soils (heavy clay with humus) help Frankovka develop bright acidity and lovely aromatics. It’s a region famous for crisp whites like Graševina, but Frankovka is having its moment here too—proving Slavonia knows how to party just as well as the coast. The Grape & the Craft Frankovka is Croatia’s name for the beloved Blaufränkisch—that spicy, high-acid red grape that shines across Central Europe. In rosé form, it delivers pure summer magic: vibrant red berries without heaviness. The winemaking stays true to the pomalo ethos—minimal intervention, maximum enjoyment: The result? An 11.5% ABV beauty that feels alive and effortless. No oak, no fuss—just pure fruit and energy. Tasting Notes: Summer in a Glass Pour yourself a chilled glass and watch that pale salmon-pink hue catch the light. On the nose: bursts of fresh strawberries and raspberries, which peach and watermelon, delicate floral notes, a whisper of pink grapefruit zest. It’s inviting and sunny. On the palate: bright, vibrant, and effortlessly pleasing. Juicy red berries dance with crisp acidity and a clean mineral finish. There’s a touch of watermelon rind or subtle spice that keeps it interesting. Dry, light-to-medium bodied, and supremely drinkable. This is the wine for doing absolutely nothing… besides enjoying every sip. It’s the kind of rosé that disappears quickly (in the best way) and leaves you reaching for another bottle. Perfect Pairings for Lazy Days This rosé loves simple pleasures elevated. Think: It’s versatile enough for picnics, sunset aperitifs, or casual weeknight dinners. Pair it with good company and zero agenda.
Terroir Through the Glass: How Glassware Elevates Wine Tasting
Last week I had the absolute pleasure of hosting Terroir Through the Glass in partnership with Stölzle Lausitz at the Commonwealth Wine School – an intimate and interactive tasting evening for trade professionals in Cambridge, MA. The concept was simple but powerful: explore how glassware shapes — and elevates — our perception of wine, especially its connection to terroir. We tasted four exceptional, place-driven wines side-by-side in Stölzle Lausitz Quatrophil glasses versus the standard ISO. The differences were eye-opening (and nose-opening!). Here’s a full recap of the evening, complete with specific food pairing ideas. Why the Glass Matters: The Fundamentals Before we lifted a single glass, we broke down the science and sensory impact: We are creatures of habit. Just like that favorite coffee mug you instinctively reach for every morning — the one with the perfect weight, handle feel, and capacity — your go-to wine glass genuinely enhances enjoyment. I asked the room to share their favorites, and the responses were wonderfully varied and passionate. The Wines & Their Perfect Glass Partners 1. Souleil Le Rosé 2025 – Stölzle Quatrophil Universal GlassFounders Marianne Fabre-Lanvin and Thomas Delaude created this as a love letter to endless summer in southern France. Organic grapes from Mediterranean vineyards deliver saline minerality and bright sunshine. In the glass: Explosive wild strawberry, citrus zest, white peach, white cherry, and a refreshing saline finish. The Universal Glass concentrated the delicate aromatics beautifully while preserving the wine’s breezy, approachable charm. It felt like pure joy in liquid form. Specific Food Pairings: 2. Clos du Gaimont Vouvray 2024 – Stölzle Quatrophil White Wine GlassFrom the historic Clos du Gaimont parcel in Vouvray (owned by the Chainier family with 18th-century roots). Chalky tuffeau soils and Loire influence produce vibrant Chenin Blanc. The white wine glass highlighted white flowers, green apple, pear, quince, citrus, and piercing minerality. Its narrower shape and chimney directed the wine precisely, emphasizing Chenin’s hallmark acidity and purity. Specific Food Pairings: 3. Benanti Etna Rosso 2023 – Stölzle Quatrophil Burgundy GlassA benchmark from the Benanti family on Mount Etna. Volcanic soils, high elevation, and native Nerello Mascalese (80-85%) + Cappuccio create something truly special. The wide Burgundy bowl allowed the wine to breathe, revealing ethereal red cherry, floral notes, smoky minerality, salinity, and silky tannins. It transformed from “good” in the ISO to “magical” in the Stölzle. Specific Food Pairings: 4. Kir-Yianni Naoussa Xinomavro Ramnista 2020 – Stölzle Quatrophil Bordeaux GlassFrom the Boutaris family’s estate in Naoussa, Greece. Xinomavro (“acid black”) from Mount Vermio slopes delivers power and aging potential. The Bordeaux glass tamed the firm tannins while concentrating black cherry, plum, black pepper, spice, tobacco, and earth. It let this warrior grape show its noble structure and depth. Specific Food Pairings: The afternoon was lively and participatory. Attendees swirled, sniffed, sipped, and compared glasses in real time, sharing observations about how each shape changed the wine. Laughter and great insights flowed freely! Final Takeaways A heartfelt thank you to all the trade professionals who joined me with open minds and curious palates, and to Stölzle Lausitz for providing such excellent glasses that performed brilliantly. The glass doesn’t change the wine — it simply helps it tell its story more completely.
The Beauty of Place, Poured
One of my favorite things about wine is its ability to transport us. A single glass can take us from volcanic hillsides in Southern Italy to windswept vineyards in Oregon, from ancient Roman territories to hidden corners of the Rhône Valley and the fresh, vibrant Loire. This quarter’s Wine Club selection is exactly that—a collection of wines that tell stories of place, people, and the vineyards that shape them. Pack your travel clothes and passport. We’re heading to Italy, France, and the Pacific Northwest. Domaine Les Pierres Écrites “Dilemme Blanc” 2024: Loire Freshness with a Rhône Twist The Loire Valley has long been one of my favorite regions for white wines, and this bottle is a perfect example of why. Aromatically, it offers bright citrus, white flowers, orchard fruit, and a distinct mineral character that immediately transports me to the vineyards where it was grown. The palate is lively and refreshing, with beautiful precision and energy. Domaine Les Pierres Écrites is a rising star in Montlouis-sur-Loire. Anthony and Coralie Rassin, originally from the area but with experience in the Northern Rhône, took over in 2015. The name nods to the previous owner’s archaeologist grandfather and his “written stones.” “Dilemme” (dilemma) reflects their clever négoce project blending Loire Chenin Blanc finesse with Viognier from Rhône friends—half Loire, half Rhône soul. Farmed organically by hand on the region’s classic tuffeau and clay-limestone soils, the winemaking preserves vibrancy: cool fermentation and minimal intervention to let the blend’s floral, fruity, and mineral notes shine. I chose this wine because it represents the style of white wine I find myself reaching for again and again—fresh, vibrant, food-friendly, and endlessly drinkable. I think subscribers will love its versatility. Unique food pairings: Embrace the cross-regional dilemma with a spring “Loire-Rhône fusion”: goat cheese and apricot tart (Chenin’s acidity meets Viognier’s stone fruit) or herb-roasted chicken with fennel and citrus—where the wine’s white flowers and minerality dance perfectly. Or try it with asparagus and morel mushroom risotto for an earthy, elegant spring awakening. Picture it as a charming bridge between regions—like a delightful cultural exchange at a sunny Loire picnic that somehow feels Rhône-romantic. Whether you’re enjoying fresh seafood, a cheese board, or simply a warm evening on the patio, this is the bottle that somehow disappears before you realize it. Elk Cove Rosé of Pinot Noir 2025: Oregon Summer in a Glass Every wine club needs a bottle that feels like summer in a glass, and this rosé delivers exactly that. Bursting with wild strawberry, watermelon rind, raspberry, pink grapefruit, and delicate floral notes, it is both refreshing and surprisingly sophisticated. The texture is silky, the acidity is bright, and the finish leaves you wanting another sip. Elk Cove Vineyards, founded in 1974 by Pat and Joe Campbell, was one of the pioneers in Oregon’s Willamette Valley—specifically the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Now led by the next generation including winemaker Adam Campbell, they farm estate vineyards across the valley with a focus on expressive Pinot Noir. The rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir, hand-harvested ripe fruit gently whole-cluster pressed with minimal skin contact for that elegant, “white Pinot” style. Oregon’s cool climate, marine influences, and diverse soils (volcanic, sedimentary) yield Pinot with purity and finesse; the rosé captures the region’s bright fruit and vibrant acidity beautifully. I chose this wine because Elk Cove consistently produces some of Oregon’s most expressive Pinot Noir, and their rosé beautifully captures that same sense of elegance and place. I have a feeling this will be the first bottle many of you open—and possibly the first one you finish. Fun, unique pairings: Channel Pacific Northwest spring—pair with grilled wild salmon skewers with a strawberry salsa (echoing the wine’s red fruit), or a “forager’s picnic” of fresh morels, fiddlehead ferns, and goat cheese crostini. Its silkiness also shines with spicy Thai shrimp salad or strawberry shortcake for dessert. It’s like a sun-drenched Oregon vineyard stroll—elegant, approachable, and full of seasonal joy. It’s perfect for warm afternoons, spontaneous gatherings, grilled seafood, and those moments when you simply want to slow down and enjoy the season. Villa Matilde Fiano di Avellino “Montelapio” 2021: Volcanic Elegance from Campania Fiano is one of the grapes that continually reminds me why Italy produces some of the world’s most compelling white wines. This bottling from Villa Matilde opens with aromas of ripe pear, Meyer lemon, white peach, chamomile, and crushed stone. The palate is layered and textured, balancing generous fruit with a beautiful mineral backbone that keeps you coming back for another sip. Villa Matilde was founded in the 1960s by lawyer Francesco Paolo Avallone with a mission to revive the legendary ancient Falerno wine praised by Roman poets and emperors. The family later expanded into Irpinia, embracing Fiano di Avellino’s potential. “Montelapio” comes from high-altitude vineyards around Lapio on volcanic, mineral-rich soils—classic Campania terroir shaped by Mount Vesuvius’ influence. Winemaking stays respectful of place: hand-harvested 100% Fiano, fermented and aged briefly in stainless steel to highlight purity, freshness, and that signature stony minerality without oak interference. I selected this wine because it perfectly captures the elegance and complexity of Campania’s volcanic terroir. Many of you know my love affair with Southern Italy, and this wine is exactly why. You’ll love it if you enjoy Chardonnay but are looking for something with more freshness, character, and sense of place. Fun, unique food pairings: Celebrate its volcanic roots with grilled octopus or briny seafood risotto laced with lemon zest and herbs—the minerality cuts through richness like sea breeze on the Amalfi coast. Or go bold with a spring “Campania picnic”: fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and paired with prosciutto—Fiano’s peach and chamomile lift the delicate flavors into something magical. It’s like channeling ancient Roman poets toasting under the stars—timeless, poetic, and utterly refreshing. Pour it with seafood, summer entertaining, or simply when you want a white wine that feels a little more special—ideally on a sunny patio as the world blooms around you. Casale del Giglio Cesanese Lazio IGT
Abruzzo: Italy’s Wild Heart
Some wine regions whisper. Abruzzo speaks with clarity. At a recent trade tasting at City Winery Boston, hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Vini d’Abruzzo at City Winery Boston, I was reminded why this central Italian region is one of the most exciting—and still wonderfully underrated—wine territories in Italy today. Set between the dramatic peaks of the Apennines and the cooling influence of the Adriatic coast, Abruzzo is a region of striking natural contrast. Mountains, sea breezes, altitude, and wild terrain all shape wines that carry freshness, energy, and unmistakable identity. It’s a place where power and elegance meet. A Region Defined by Contrast What makes Abruzzo so fascinating is that it isn’t one singular wine region—it’s four distinct provinces, each with its own personality, shaped by altitude, soils, and proximity to the Adriatic. Together, they create one of Italy’s most dynamic terroir mosaics. Teramo (North) This is where Montepulciano reaches some of its most profound expressions, particularly in the prestigious Colline Teramane DOCG. The soils here are rich in clay and limestone, giving the wines structure, depth, and ageability. Vineyards stretch from the rolling hills toward the foothills of the Gran Sasso, often reaching 250–400 meters in altitude. The climate is cooler than the south, with strong mountain influence preserving acidity and freshness. What shines here: Montepulciano with darker fruit, firmer tannins, and greater longevity. Cerasuolo here often feels more vinous, structured, and savory. Think: power with polish. Pescara (Central Coast) Pescara sits in the heart of Abruzzo and often delivers some of the most balanced and versatile wines of the region. Its soils are a patchwork of clay, sand, and marine sediments, shaped by ancient seabeds. The Adriatic influence is strongest here, bringing cooling breezes and moderating the warmth. Altitude ranges from sea level up to 350 meters, allowing producers to play with ripeness and freshness. What shines here: Montepulciano with juicy fruit and softer tannins, vibrant Cerasuolo, and increasingly exciting Pecorino. Think: generosity meets freshness. Chieti (South Coast) Abruzzo’s largest and most productive province, but don’t mistake scale for simplicity. Chieti benefits from warmer temperatures, lower elevations, and more Mediterranean influence. The soils here are often sandy clay with limestone pockets, giving approachable, fruit-forward wines. This is where much of Abruzzo’s commercial heartbeat lies, but there’s also a growing movement toward quality-driven terroir wines. What shines here: Accessible Montepulciano, bright Trebbiano, aromatic Passerina, and textured Pecorino. Think: warmth, generosity, and incredible value. L’Aquila (Inland Mountains) The wild card. This mountainous inland province is less associated with volume and more with altitude, extremes, and freshness. Here, vineyards can climb beyond 500 meters, with dramatic diurnal shifts and rugged calcareous soils. It’s cooler, harsher, and more unpredictable—but that tension creates wines of incredible energy. What shines here: Fresh whites like Trebbiano and Pecorino, and increasingly elegant reds with lifted acidity. Think: mountain tension and purity. Eight Shades of Cerasuolo Leading the masterclass was Jeff Porter, who guided us through what makes Abruzzo so compelling—not just geographically, but stylistically. The focus? Eight distinct expressions of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, the region’s historic rosato that continues to challenge expectations. And what a category it is. Cerasuolo sits in a world of its own: deeper in color than most rosés, built from Montepulciano, and packed with vibrant red fruit, savory lift, and mineral tension. It has the structure of a light red, the refreshment of rosé, and the gastronomic versatility of both. Tasting eight examples side by side revealed just how broad and nuanced this category can be. Tenuta I Fauri — Chiola Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2025 The lightest in the lineup, but far from simple. Wild strawberry, watermelon rind, and crushed rose petals leap from the glass, followed by citrus-driven tension and saline lift. Sleek, energetic, and refreshing—this is Cerasuolo in its most vibrant form. It drinks like a savory, earthy Gamay with a finish of almond skin. Pasetti — Tenuta Rosa Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore 2025 A darker and more structured expression. Sour cherry, blood orange, and pomegranate layered with savory herbs and wet stone. Fuller-bodied with real texture and grip. This is where Cerasuolo begins to show its serious side. Biagi — Campelli Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Juicy and immediate, loaded with ripe raspberry, red currant, and cranberry skin. A subtle herbal lift and bitter almond edge bring complexity. Charming, bright, and dangerously drinkable. Biagi — Rerum Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore Biologico 2025 Deeper, broader, and more layered. Wild cherry, macerated strawberry, orange peel, and dried thyme unfold across the palate with gentle phenolic grip. More contemplative, more vinous—built for food. Castorani — Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore 2025 One of the most vinous in the flight. Dark cherry, hibiscus, rhubarb, and crushed stone. Deeper concentration and almost red-wine-like presence, yet still lifted by freshness. Serious and gastronomic. Caprera — Le Vasche 2024 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2025 A standout for precision and polish. Bright red berries, pomegranate, bitter orange, and Mediterranean herbs. Silky yet electric, with chalky minerality and beautiful tension. Modern, vibrant, and highly expressive. More Than Montepulciano But Abruzzo’s story stretches far beyond rosato. Long beloved for the generous fruit and savory depth of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the region is increasingly earning international recognition for its quality, value, and deep sense of place. These are wines that overdeliver—bold yet approachable, serious yet easy to love. The walk-around tasting offered an impressive snapshot of the region’s breadth, with standout wines from NAE, Pasetti, Talamonti, Castorani, Caprera, Biagi, Tilli, Strappelli, and Tenuta I Fauri. Beyond Montepulciano and Cerasuolo, the whites were equally compelling: crisp, expressive wines from Trebbiano, Pecorino, Passerina, and other indigenous varieties, each carrying Abruzzo’s signature tension between ripeness and freshness. What makes Abruzzo so relevant right now is that it meets the modern drinker exactly where they are: authenticity, value, food-friendliness, and indigenous character. It’s a region without pretense—but with enormous substance. For trade professionals, tastings like this are a reminder that Abruzzo is no longer simply a “great value” region. It’s a serious conversation. A place of diversity, energy, and evolving identity. And perhaps most
A Montefalco 2026: The Quiet Poetry of Place
Montefalco arrives like a promise: a ribbon of sun-drenched hills stitched with olive groves and vines, where the light turns grape skins to jewels and the afternoon hush feels like the land exhaling centuries of stories. Three immersive days threading through the gentle slopes between Montefalco, Gualdo Cattaneo, Giano dell’Umbria, Castel Ritaldi, and beyond revealed the region’s living heartbeat — Sagrantino’s powerful, age-worthy structure rooted in thick-skinned intensity and polyphenolic richness; the crystalline, vertical lift of Trebbiano Spoletino with its uncommon acidity and aromatic freshness; and a hospitality that turns every tasting into shared conversation. Here, place and patience continue to ferment wine into memory. Day 1: Hilltops, Family Stories, and First Impressions The journey opened in the Gualdo Cattaneo area with Cesarini-Sartori — gritty, tenacious, rooted — an intimate, family-minded estate led by sisters Chiara and Alice Cesarini Sartori. Their wines speak eloquently of hill soils and old-vine heritage, delivering Sagrantino-driven structure layered with a clear sense of place and energetic Montefalco Rosso blends that balance deep tannins with vibrant freshness — a refined introduction to the territory’s duality of power and approachability. Terre de la Custodia — commanding, earthy, relentless — part of the historic Farchioni family (with Giampaolo Farchioni and winemaker Marco Minciarelli at the helm), followed with a vineyard-forward philosophy deeply rooted in local varieties and the area’s clay-calcareous terroir. Their well-shaped Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso impressed with earthy aromatics, savory finishes, and harmonious structure — wines that exemplify how the rolling hills translate into glass with both generosity and precision. In Giano dell’Umbria, Moretti Omero — nimble, salty, defiant — a small-scale family operation, offered meticulous attention to detail where traditional viticulture meets thoughtful modern cellar choices. Their approachable Trebbiano Spoletino shone with freshness and salt-sapidity, while the nimble reds highlighted drinkability and pairing versatility — honest expressions that feel intimately tied to the land. Terre di San Felice — warm-edged, familial, fierce — in the Castel Ritaldi/Montefalco area (Società Agricola San Felice) wrapped the day with warm hospitality and wines that favor drinkability without sacrificing pedigree. Lively Montefalco Bianco and Grechetto examples danced alongside Montefalco Rosso featuring ripe fruit and soft tannic edges — terroir-driven voices that felt familial and inviting. The evening dinner at Tenuta di Saragano provided a convivial close: regional Umbrian cooking paired seamlessly with structured Sagrantino and local wines, underscoring how Montefalco’s earthiness and cuisine make every bottle sing. Day 2: Consorzio Wisdom, Village Cellars, and Shared Craft A highlight was the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco visit and masterclass “Montefalco Today” led by Cristina Mercuri MW at Chiostro S. Agostino. She crystallized the region’s story: a compact production area with ancient vines, mandatory aging for Sagrantino DOCG (37 months total, including wood and bottle), and the distinctive characters of its grapes. Sagrantino’s world-class polyphenols and tenacity meet Trebbiano Spoletino’s vertical acidity and aromatic precursors, all shaped by varied microclimates across calcareous-clay soils and four pedologic subzones. The “A Montefalco” ethos — Assertive, Authentic, Ageable — came alive through vintage insights and terroir maps. Le Cimate — precise, mineral-sharp, unyielding — impressed with terroir-focused parcel work and elegant cellar decisions under the estate’s dedicated team. Their refined Sagrantino and well-structured Montefalco Rosso emphasized length, minerality, and balanced oak — poised expressions of the central hills. Romanelli — concentrated, savage, persistent — at San Clemente (with Devis Romanelli involved in the family legacy) brought an old-vine sensibility and strong sense of place. Concentrated red fruit, savory herbs, and persistent tannins defined their Sagrantino — wines that reward slow sipping and reveal layers with time. Ninni — citrus-blade, vertical, audacious — grounded us in Spoleto DOC tradition with expressive Trebbiano Spoletino showcasing the grape’s signature citrus-mineral profile and impressive aging potential, alongside friendly, food-ready whites made in a living way that highlight its versatility and daring nature at Ninni. The Consorzio soirée — a “Visita mestieri” with light dinner — celebrated craft and conviviality. Winemakers, members, and artisans gathered over small plates matched to local whites and vibrant reds, reminding us that Montefalco’s terroir is as much cultural as geological. Day 3: Comparative Tastings and Enduring Classics A focused morning in the central Sala Degustazione allowed side-by-side comparisons, sharpening impressions across producers. Valdangius — saline-striking, bright, rebellious — stood out as a newer voice with clear vineyard intentions. Fresh Montefalco Bianco and Grechetto offered bright aromatics and a saline thread — lively whites that bring energy to the lineup. Scacciadiavoli — historic fury, potent, timeless — the Pambuffetti family flagship (founded 1884) delivered classic Sagrantino depth and Montefalco Rosso blending elegance with potency. These are wines that demonstrate the DOCG’s serious aging ambition and the estate’s living museum of tradition. Goretti — Fattoria Le Mura Saracene — tactile-intense, cinematic, savory-rebel — in the Pietrauta area (led by the Goretti family, including Sara and Giuli Goretti) conveyed a powerful sense of place through old-vine sites. Cinematic Trebbiano Spoletino and expressive Sangiovese-led blends featured tactile minerality and savory finishes that lingered beautifully. The trip culminated in an evening soirée at Tenute Lunelli — Carapace, a polished setting for wide-ranging comparisons and producer conversations. From bright Spoletino and Grechetto whites to powerful Sagrantino bottlings, the diversity shone — philosophies ranging from restraint to robust extraction, all united by profound respect for terroir and the land’s potential. Why Montefalco Matters Sagrantino remains the backbone — thick-skinned, polyphenolic powerhouse built for longevity, with a fascinating falcon-derived history and unique tannin profile that offers tenacity, finesse, and evolution. Yet the region’s beauty is its mosaic: Trebbiano Spoletino’s vertical freshness and aromatic complexity; Grechetto’s structure; Sangiovese-driven Montefalco Rosso for approachable elegance. Across compact hills (220–472m altitude) with clay-calcareous soils, pebble veins, and varied exposures, microclimates craft remarkable diversity. The Consorzio’s sustainable vision — organic growth, biodiversity, and green practices — alongside the “A Montefalco” manifesto, ensures this green heart of Italy stays authentic and forward-looking. 2021 Vintage Snapshot: The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG earned a strong 4-star Excellent rating (94/100). A harsh winter and spring frost gave way to a
VieVinum 2026: Vienna & Vineyards
Vienna has a way of making wine feel cinematic. Perhaps it’s the imperial grandeur. The late-night glow spilling from historic cafés. The effortless blend of culture, history, and hospitality. Or perhaps it’s because Austrian wine itself mirrors the city — precise yet emotional, intellectual yet deeply soulful. For four days in May every two years, VieVinum 2026 transformed Vienna into the epicenter of the wine world, bringing together approximately 550 wineries and exhibitors from across Austria and beyond. Hosted within the magnificent Hofburg Palace, VieVinum remains one of Europe’s most important wine events—not simply because of its scale, but because of the conversations happening inside the glass. This year felt particularly electric. Not loud. Not flashy. Confident. Austria knows exactly who it is right now. The Energy of VieVinum VieVinum isn’t a fair you casually stroll through. It’s a marathon of tastings, interviews, masterclasses, meetings, press conferences, and spontaneous conversations that somehow become the most memorable part of the experience. From the Welcome Event at the MAK to ÖTW gatherings throughout the city, every day offered a deeper look into the evolution of Austrian wine. What stood out most was the remarkable balance between tradition and innovation. Austria’s producers aren’t chasing trends. They’re doubling down on authenticity, site expression, sustainability, and precision. The wines reflect that philosophy beautifully. Grüner Veltliner continues to evolve into one of the world’s most compelling white varieties, combining freshness, texture, and mineral detail. Blaufränkisch is cementing itself as one of Europe’s most exciting red grapes, capable of delivering both power and finesse with remarkable clarity of place. But let’s not loose sight of the racy Sauvignon Blanc, the finessed Chardonnay, that mineral driven Pinot Noir.. Austria is more than Grüner my friends. Discovering Austria’s Next Generation One of the highlights of the week was meeting producers who are helping define the next chapter of Austrian wine. The Schuller sisters of Weingut Schuller brought a fresh, modern energy to their wines—vibrant, expressive, and deeply connected to place while embracing a contemporary vision for the future. At Schlumberger, Austria’s historic sparkling wine house, traditional method Sekts demonstrated elegance, creamy texture, and remarkable precision. Bauer-Pöltl showcased Blaufränkisch with dark fruit, spice, structure, and a vibrant sense of energy that felt distinctly Burgenland. Weingut Toni Hartl impressed with refined, site-driven reds that balanced concentration with elegance. Weingutstift Göttweig offered wines that reflected centuries of history, delivering purity, minerality, and timeless sophistication. Familie Reinisch once again demonstrated why Thermenregion remains one of Austria’s most exciting regions, crafting Pinot Noir and white wines of remarkable finesse and detail. Puklavec Family Wines brought an international perspective, producing vibrant, approachable wines with aromatic clarity and freshness. Among the most fascinating conversations were those with childhood friends Philipp Grassl and Markus Huber, both members of Österreichische Traditionsweingüter (ÖTW) and two of Austria’s most respected voices in modern winemaking. Philipp Grassl has become one of Carnuntum’s defining producers, crafting wines he describes as having “silence, depth, and tension.” His wines unfold slowly, revealing layers of texture and complexity while maintaining a quiet confidence that demands attention without ever shouting. The master of St. Laurent, he calls “a diva in the vineyard.” Markus Huber, meanwhile, continues to elevate Traisental through wines defined by precision and elegance. His remarkably pure expressions capture the crystalline freshness and mineral character that have made him one of Austria’s benchmark producers. Together, they embody a generation of winemakers acting as artists for their respective regions, lifting them onto the international stage through authenticity rather than imitation. Wine, History and Hospitality Some of the most memorable moments happened away from the tasting halls. What makes Vienna unique is that wine isn’t something that exists outside the city—it is woven directly into its identity. As Europe’s only capital city with significant vineyards planted within its city limits, wine is never far away. One afternoon led to Schönbrunn Palace, the former imperial summer residence of the Habsburgs. With its staggering 1,441 rooms and miles of vast manicured gardens stretching across the landscape, it felt less like visiting a palace and more like stepping into a living history book. No visit to Vienna would be complete without embracing its culinary traditions. Discovering the rich elegance of a true Sacher Torte and the delicate layers of freshly prepared apple strudel offered a delicious reminder that Austria’s obsession with craftsmanship extends far beyond wine. At Pfarrwirt, Vienna’s oldest Heuriger, lunch provided a deeper understanding of Vienna’s wine culture through a tasting of wines from Mayer am Pfarrplatz and Mayer Rotes Haus. Surrounded by centuries of history, we explored vineyard-designated wines that showcased the precision and freshness that define modern Viennese wine. We tasted the range from Mayer am Pfarrplatz: Gelber Muskateller, Grüner Veltliner (Grinzing), Riesling Ried Alsegg and Riesling Nussberg, plus two examples of Wiener Gemischter Satz (from Weingut Rotes Haus and Mayer am Pfarrplatz). Wiener Gemischter Satz is a beautiful, chaotic field blend—multiple varieties planted side by side in the same vineyard, harvested and fermented together. It’s a living snapshot of Vienna’s historic vineyards, where complexity, texture and tension are woven naturally into every glass. Dinner at the legendary Plachutta delivered another Austrian classic: Wiener Schnitzel and white asparagus season in full force. Light, airy, delicate and impossibly crisp, it was arguably the finest example of the dish I’ve ever tasted—a masterclass in how simplicity becomes extraordinary when executed perfectly. Austria at a Turning Point What struck me most throughout VieVinum 2026 was how internationally relevant Austrian wine has become. Not as a trend. Not as a niche. But as a benchmark for terroir-driven, precision-focused winemaking. Climate challenges continue to reshape wine regions across the globe, yet Austria appears uniquely positioned for this moment. The balance between freshness, ripeness, structure, and elegance aligns perfectly with what sommeliers, collectors, and consumers increasingly seek. The wines feel sharper than ever. More articulate. More confident. And yet they retain their soul. That balance is difficult to achieve. Austria is doing it remarkably well. Leaving Vienna As VieVinum came
Campania Stories: Giorno 3-Coastal Fire, Ancient Wines & the Soul of Falerno
Giorno 3 — Caserta Villa Matilde Avallone • Fattoria Pagano By Day 3, Campania no longer felt like a region. It felt like a living conversation. Every subregion carried its own rhythm, its own accent, its own emotional temperature. After the mountain tension of Irpinia and the rustic soul of Sannio, the road led us toward Caserta — where volcanic soils meet sea air, where Falerno still echoes through history, and where hospitality arrives as naturally as wine at the table. The morning returned us to the pulse of Vega Palace for another day of focused tastings and exchange, this time centered around reds with a scattering of rosé. But it was the late afternoon that stayed with me most. Golden light. Warm air. Cellars beginning to quiet as evening approached. And producers leaning across the table to explain not just a wine, but a decision, a vintage, a piece of family history. Falerno del Massico: The Ancient Voice of Campania Long before Barolo, Brunello or Super Tuscans existed, there was Falerno. The legendary wine of ancient Rome. The wine of Caesar and Cleopatra. Produced along the volcanic slopes surrounding Monte Massico near the Tyrrhenian coast, Falerno del Massico remains one of Campania’s most historic appellations. But unlike the elevated freshness of Irpinia or the earthy rusticity of Sannio, the wines here carry something broader and warmer. Sun-warmed fruit. Salty minerality. Mediterranean herbs. Volcanic depth softened by sea breezes. The climate here changes everything. Warm coastal air ripens the fruit generously, while cold winds descending from the Apennines preserve freshness and tension. Combined with volcanic soils, the result is wines that feel simultaneously rich and lifted — structured yet deeply convivial. This was the world of Villa Matilde Avallone. Villa Matilde Avallone: Reviving the Wine of the Romans Villa Matilde is not simply a winery. It is an act of resurrection. Founded by Francesco Paolo Avallone, the estate spent over a decade researching and reviving the ancient terroir and varieties connected to Falerno del Massico. What began as a passion project eventually became one of Campania’s most important modern estates. Today the winery is guided by siblings Salvatore and Maria Avallone, continuing their father’s vision with deep emotional attachment to the land. And that emotion is impossible to miss. At one point during the tasting, Salvatore smiled and said: “We, the people from Campania, are completely crazy. We live our land. We want to communicate our passion through the wine.” And honestly, that sentence captured the entire visit. Emotion. People. Land. Everything here revolves around that connection. The tasting began with Falanghina. The 2024 carried fresh citrus, apple, pear and saline minerality — bright and coastal in feel. Then came the Mata 2015 Falanghina, and suddenly the conversation shifted entirely. Ten years old and completely alive. Ripe peach. Biscuit. Dough. Dried florals. A wine proving once again how beautifully Campanian whites evolve with time. Salvatore compared the grapes almost like iconic Italian women. The 2025 Fiano di Avellino? “Audrey Hepburn.” Elegant. Refined. Silky. The Greco? “Sophia Loren.” More character. More presence. A touch of rustic edge. And honestly, he was right. The Contrada 127 Greco 2022 — produced with amphora, as the estate has done since the 1960s — carried remarkable grip and minerality, like “a hand on your shoulder,” balancing freshness with texture and serious aging potential. Then came Carracci. And this is where Villa Matilde truly revealed its soul. The 2020 Carracci Falerno del Massico single vineyard unfolded through honeyed dried stone fruit, herbs, salinity and lemon curd wrapped around subtle tannic grip. The 2008 broadened even further into caramel, dried grapefruit and toasted nuts while still retaining freshness. These wines felt ancient somehow. Meditative. Completely tied to place. The reds carried the warmth of the coast but never lost their freshness. The 2025 Roccamonfina Piedirosso was pure glou-glou energy — crunchy red fruit, bright acidity and white pepper spice. The 2020 Falerno del Massico Rosso — 80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso — felt closest to Salvatore’s heart. He described it as the wine that “communicates the voice of the land.” And it did exactly that. Savory. Volcanic. Layered with spice and lifted fruit. The Taurasi wines brought more structure and smoke, while Cecubo 2018 — blending Primitivo, Aglianico and Piedirosso — moved into darker, richer territory without losing Campania’s signature freshness. What struck me most was how clearly Caserta differentiated itself from the previous days. The wines here carried sunlight inside them. Fattoria Pagano: Drink the Terroir As evening deepened, we continued toward Fattoria Pagano. And suddenly everything became even more intimate. Founded in 2001 by Antonio Pagano, the organic estate stretches across roughly 24 hectares, with vineyards both in Falerno del Massico and Irpinia. The philosophy here is simple: “Drink the terroir.” Nothing polished for international style. Nothing overworked. Just wines tied honestly to volcanic soils, hand harvesting and the rhythm of Campanian hospitality. Antonio and Angelo welcomed us alongside tables already filling with local dishes and buffalo mozzarella made by Antonio’s uncle — firmer in texture than most mozzarella di bufala, originating from nearby Casedici. And once again, the food and wines became inseparable. The evening began with a 120-day Charmat sparkling blend of Greco and Falanghina — biscuit notes, fine bubbles and remarkable freshness. The labels themselves carried stories too, decorated with musical instruments representing the musicians who once gathered here. Even the rosé held personal meaning, dedicated to Antonio’s mother Rosa: 40% Aglianico, 40% Piedirosso and 20% Merlot carrying bright fruit and unmistakable volcanic minerality. The whites leaned generous yet precise. The Falanghina 2025 shimmered with bright minerality, while the late-harvest Falanghina carried rounder floral concentration. The Greco 2025 moved beautifully from tropical softness into rising minerality, while the Fabula Falerno del Massico Bianca 2025 showed serious elegance and structure. Then came the reds. The Piedirosso 2023 carried smoky violets, savory earth and elegant ripeness. The Aglianico bottlings balanced fruit intensity with remarkably soft tannins. But the standout was Gaurasi Falerno del Massico
Campania Stories: Giorno 2 Rustic Soul, Mountain Power & the Wines of Sannio
Giorno 2 — Benevento: Sannio & Aglianico del Taburno Terre Stregate • Fontevecchia By Day 2, Campania had already begun to reveal its rhythm. Not polished. Not predictable. But deeply alive. The morning began with Campania Stories tastings focused on sparkling wines and whites — glasses filled with Falanghina, Fiano and Greco carrying the tension of volcanic soils and mountain air. Yet as we moved deeper into Benevento and the hills surrounding Taburno, the mood shifted once again. Rustic charm replaced coastal energy. The wines became earthier. More grounded. More quietly powerful. This was Sannio. A vast inland area surrounding Benevento that has quietly become one of southern Italy’s most important wine-producing zones. Unlike the dramatic volcanic landscapes of Campi Flegrei or the elevated mountain tension of Irpinia, Sannio feels warmer, softer and more agricultural — rolling hills, olive groves, grain fields and vineyards woven together across the countryside. And the wines reflect that generosity. Falanghina from Sannio tends to be rounder and more approachable than the sharper, saline expressions from Campi Flegrei. The fruit becomes riper, the texture broader, while still maintaining freshness thanks to altitude and limestone-rich soils. Then there is Taburno. Centered around Mount Taburno itself, Aglianico del Taburno carries a different personality from Taurasi. While Taurasi often leans toward darker structure, tension and austere longevity, Taburno tends to show more immediate savory charm — earthy spice, softer tannins and a slightly more approachable elegance in youth while still retaining the ability to age beautifully. This was Sannio. A place where Falanghina feels less polished and more rooted. Where Aglianico trades sheer force for savory depth and drinkability. Where food, wine and history still feel inseparable from everyday life. Terre Stregate: The Land of Witches The name alone tells you this is not an ordinary place. Terre Stregate — “Land of the Witches” — sits at roughly 400 metres above sea level in the Benevento valley, surrounded by calcareous stone soils touched by volcanic influence drifting inland from Vesuvius. The symbol of the estate — moon, sun and eye — represents protection, an echo of the folklore and ancient legends woven throughout this part of Campania. Benevento has long been associated with stories of witches gathering beneath walnut trees, casting spells carried by the wind through the valley. And honestly, standing there among the vines, it does feel slightly enchanted. The estate is led by Filomena Iacobucci and her brother, fifth-generation custodians of a family deeply rooted in Sannio agriculture. Today they farm roughly 25 hectares of vines alongside four hectares of olive groves, using the olive leaves themselves as mulch to nourish the vineyard soils naturally. Everything here feels connected to the land. Filomena explained that Falanghina remains the beating heart of the estate, accounting for roughly 65% of production. Their goal is not simply to make Falanghina, but to tell the story of where Falanghina was born — through multiple styles and expressions. And the tasting revealed exactly that. The Caledonio Brut Falanghina DOC opened the morning with freshness and roundness, carrying vibrant citrus and soft orchard fruit wrapped in delicate mousse. Then came the Genius Loci Fiano Sannio DOP 2025 — fresh peach, light on its feet, yet quietly full of character and salinity. The Aurora Greco 2025 followed with round stone fruit and softness, its label inspired by the estate’s new cellar building rising from the hills. But the wines became increasingly compelling as depth and texture entered the conversation. The Svelato Falanghina del Sannio DOP, aged six months on lees, carried savory breadth and mineral tension, while the Caracara 2020 Late Harvest unfolded through caramel, stone fruit compote, lemon curd and toasted nuts. Rich. Layered. Yet still alive with freshness. The rosé, Attimo 2025, brought the mood back toward brightness — cherry, violet, raspberry leaf and mineral lift wrapped into something playful yet beautifully balanced. Then came Aglianico. The Idillio 2025 IGP Benevento carried bright cherry, tea leaf, earth and violets with soft tannins and spice, while the Manent 2023 — vinified partly in barrel and partly in stainless steel — balanced fresh cherry fruit with earthy structure, dark chocolate and fine acidity. Filomena explained the meaning behind the name: “Everything written stays forever.” And that sentiment lingered long after the glass was empty. The Arcano 2020 Riserva — “deep secret” — moved further into savory territory with leather, dried violets, clove and earthy spice wrapped around remarkably fine tannins. Then came Costa del Duca Late Harvest 2018, full of juicy cherry, leather and earthy depth, before the tasting closed with the Malaca Passito. Dried stone fruit. Toffee. Caramel. Christmas spice. A wine built for slow endings and long conversations. At Terre Stregate, wine feels inseparable from story. From folklore. From family. From land. And perhaps that is what made the visit so memorable. Nothing felt manufactured. Only deeply, proudly Campanian. Fontevecchia: Quiet Confidence Beneath Mount Taburno As evening approached, we continued deeper into Taburno toward Fontevecchia. If Terre Stregate felt folkloric and expressive, Fontevecchia carried a quieter kind of confidence. Rustic stone walls. Old cellars. A sense of time moving slowly. The estate, now over 150 years old, welcomed us with warmth from Libero, Lucio and the next generation already quietly stepping into the story. Here, the philosophy is simple: Pay attention to the soil, not the winemaking. And everything at Fontevecchia revolves around Mount Taburno itself. The vineyards surrounding the mountain produce Falanghina del Sannio and Aglianico del Taburno shaped by varied soils — clay and limestone, volcanic zones and tufaceous pockets — now carefully separated under oenologist Emiliano Falsini, who joined the estate in 2020. The wines are divided according to soil type: C for clay and limestone. F for tuff. B for volcanic soils. Precision without losing identity. Lucio explained how the Aglianico clones in Taburno naturally differ from Taurasi, producing smaller, less compact bunches better suited to the warmer conditions. Macerations are handled more gently here — more infusion than extraction — creating wines of elegance