Uncork the Magic of Bruñal
Embark on a thrilling wine journey to Spain’s Arribes del Duero, where the rare and enchanting Bruñal grape—also known as Alfrocheiro—casts a spell with its bold flavors, storied heritage, and untamed terroir! This Iberian treasure, flourishing in the sun-soaked, rocky terraces of northwest Spain, is a must-explore for wine enthusiasts and travel adventurers. With its intense fruit aromas, robust tannins, and remarkable culinary versatility, Bruñal is your passport to an unforgettable tasting experience. Let’s dive deep into the vibrant story of this spirited red, from its ancient origins to its dazzling flavor profile and perfect food pairings! I’m truly honored to partner with the Raíces Ibéricas Advent Calendar 2025. This wine is proudly featured on Day 8. A Storied Past: The Heritage of Bruñal Nestled in the mist-kissed canyons of Arribes del Duero, Bruñal’s tale is woven into the rugged tapestry of this region, straddling southwestern Zamora and northwestern Salamanca. Native to Castille y Leon, thee centuries-old winemaking traditions thrive among steep, terraced vineyards carved into windswept cliffs. Bruñal, synonymous with Alfrocheiro Preto from Portugal’s Dão region, is a rare, indigenous red grape, often found in small, century-old plots alongside local varieties like Juan García, Rufete, and Tempranillo. Once teetering on the edge of extinction, this dark-skinned gem is now captivating wine lovers, thanks to passionate producers like Raíces Ibéricas, who champion its revival. DNA studies reveal Bruñal’s deep Iberian roots, born from natural crosses between Alfrocheiro and Cayetana Blanca, a white-berried variety widespread in southern Iberia. Its siblings include Portuguese varieties like Cornifesto, Malvasia Preta, Camarate, and Castelão, as well as Spain’s Juan García (also known as Gorda or Tinta Gorda in Portugal). Bruñal shares a genetic kinship with France’s Trousseau, often called Bastardo Negro, which explains why the two are sometimes confused. Its synonym Tinta Francesa in Portugal’s Viseu region hints at a possible French origin, though no historical records confirm this. Bruñal is also genetically linked to Prieto Picudo from Tierra de León and Carrasquín from Asturias, underscoring its deep ties to Spain’s northern terroirs. Despite its youth—likely introduced during post-phylloxera replanting in the early 20th century—Bruñal’s limited morphological diversity and rich lineage make it a captivating piece of Iberian wine history. This rich heritage sets the stage for Bruñal’s journey from vine to bottle, where the rugged terroir of Arribes shapes its unique character. Viticulture: Where Terroir Meets Tenacity From history to the land itself, Bruñal thrives in a landscape of towering cliffs, granite-strewn soils, and the meandering Duero River carving through dramatic canyons. This offering is planted at a lofty 700 meters in Arribes’ sandy, granite-rich soils studded with quartz pebbles, these vines develop deep root systems, drawing resilience and character from the challenging terrain. Raíces Ibéricas partners with local viticulturists, fostering the region’s social ecosystem while embracing organic, minimal-intervention farming. Bruñal’s fertile, productive vines are early budding and early ripening, producing small, compact bunches of tiny, black berries. Though susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot, meticulous vineyard practices, including hand-harvesting and low yields, ensure only the finest grapes are selected. This careful stewardship captures the unfiltered essence of Arribes, a protected nature reserve where every vine tells a story of tenacity and terroir. With the grapes carefully nurtured, the artistry of winemaking transforms Bruñal into a wine that sings of its origins. Winemaking: Artistry in Every Sip From the vineyard to the cellar, Raíces Ibéricas entrusts Bruñal to the skilled hands of winemaker Rubén Magallanes, celebrated as “La Voz de la Garnacha” for his mastery of expressive, terroir-driven wines. His approach blends tradition with innovation, beginning with fermentation in small, stainless-steel vats at carefully controlled temperatures to preserve the grape’s vibrant fruit and delicate aromatics. A gentle 15 day fermentation process extracts deep color and nuanced tertiary aromas without overpowering the grape’s natural elegance. Aging in 225L barrels for twelve months softens the robust tannins, allowing Bruñal’s fruit-forward soul to shine. With only three barrels produced per vintage, Bruñal is an exclusive star in Raíces’ iconic RAICES 1 blend (vintages 2021–2024, with 2023/2024 still in barrel) and a highlight of their 2024 advent calendar. This limited production underscores the wine’s rarity, making each bottle a precious expression of Arribes’ timeless spirit. This meticulous craftsmanship is deeply rooted in the unique character of the Arribes region, a land that shapes both grape and wine. The Arribes Region: A Winemaker’s Paradise Flowing seamlessly from the cellar to the land, Arribes del Duero, a Denominación de Origen (DO) since 2007, is a region of breathtaking contrasts—high plateaus, plunging riverbanks, and steep, terraced slopes hugging the Duero and Tormes rivers. Derived from the Latin ad ripam (“on the banks”), this young, dynamic region is a haven for adventurous wine lovers. Its sandy, shallow soils, rich with granite and quartz, paired with a Mediterranean climate of chilly winters and short, scorching summers, create ideal conditions for bold grapes like Bruñal. The dramatic day-to-night temperature swings enhance the grape’s acidity and flavor concentration, making Arribes a winemaker’s paradise where nature’s raw beauty shapes every bottle. At the heart of this rugged terroir lies Bruñal, a grape that embodies the region’s wild spirit. Bruñal: The Grape That Steals the Show From the land to the grape itself, Bruñal—known as Alfrocheiro Preto in Portugal’s Dão and Alentejo regions, Baboso Negro in the Islas Canarias, and Albarín Negro in Asturias—is the beating heart of Arribes. This versatile grape thrives in cool climates or regions with significant diurnal temperature swings, budding mid-early and ripening quickly. Its low yields keep it exclusive, but its flavor is bold and unforgettable—bursting with ripe cherries, blackberries, and strawberries, accented by a mineral edge that echoes its rocky roots. In Arribes’ continental climate, Bruñal crafts full-bodied, structured reds with fine-grained tannins; in Atlantic regions like Dão, it’s fresher, wilder, and more delicate. Often blended with local varieties like Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, or Juan García, Bruñal also shines in varietal wines, as seen in the Islas Canarias with producers like Frontos, Tananjara, and Viñátigo. Its intense fruit
Budapest’s Kispiac Bisztró-Welcome
KISPIAC Bisztró is the rare Budapest address that serious eaters and drinkers whisper about with the urgency usually reserved for grand cellars and three-star tables. Hidden in plain sight at Hold utca in the 5th district, it is the personal fiefdom of Csaba Szalanszki, a restaurateur who’s energy hosts, and pours with the conviction of someone who has nothing left to prove and everything left to share. Walk in and the room wraps around you like a well-worn leather armchair: low amber light, shelves of bottles and eclectic kitchen decor, the faint crackle of the open-air kitchen, and a gentle hum of conversation. There is no pretense here, only the quiet confidence of a place that knows exactly what it is. Csaba’s wine list is a masterclass in Hungarian terroir, heavy on small growers and idiosyncratic sites, with a by-the-glass selection that rivals many dedicated bars. Depth in Somló, Juhfark, Furmint, Hárslevelű; a small but deadly arsenal of Kékfrankos from Villány, Sopron, and the overlooked Vas region; and enough skin-contact oddities to keep even the most jaded orange-wine hunter happy. Two glasses that stopped me in my wine tracks: The food is built around fire and time. Csaba’s venison Wellington has achieved minor cult status for good reason: loin from wild red deer, seared, coated in forest-mushroom duxelles, wrapped in feather-light pastry and baked to a lacquered rose. Cut the dome and the juices run like a Bordelaise reduction having an identity crisis (in the best way). The spare ribs, smoked low and slow over fruitwood, then finished in the oven until the meat threatens structural failure, are glazed with a lacquer that balances sweet, smoke, and gentle heat. They collapse at the suggestion of a fork. The half duck is the dish we will still be dreaming about in ten years: confit legs pressed and re-crisped, breast roasted on the crown until the skin shatters like stained glass and the flesh remains obscenely juicy. Served with duck-fat potatoes and braised red cabbage sharpened with aged szamorodni vinegar. The Kófejtő from Somló cuts through the richness like a stiletto. We ate here on a Wednesday night. We returned for lunch the next day. Same corner table, same grin from Csaba, same involuntary moan when the Wellington arrived. That is not hyperbole; it is simply what happens when obsession meets execution. KISPIAC is not chasing trends or stars. It is the living room of a man who loves feeding people beautiful, soulful food and pouring them wines most of the country still hasn’t discovered. For anyone who measures a trip by the quality of its tables, this tiny bistrot is obligatory. Twice in 24 hours felt perfectly rational. Three times would have been restraint.
Life in Villany Wine Country
Hidden in Hungary’s deep south lies a tiny village of just 2,000 souls that’s quietly rewriting the rules of world-class wine: V I L L Á N Y. This is where Cabernet Franc reaches utter perfection (many say it’s one of the planet’s greatest terroirs for the grape). Where Bordeaux-style blends are exploding onto the global stage. Where ancient cellars meet concrete eggs, photocatalytic oxygenation, and 30-year-old vintages that taste like liquid history. Few wine regions in Europe deliver the combination of heritage, innovation, and sheer personality that Villány does. During the exclusive VIP tour curated by Villány Borvidék, we were granted rare access to four benchmark producers, each offering a distinct lens on why this small southern Hungarian appellation is producing some of the world’s most compelling Cabernet Francs—and far more. We woke up to a once-in-a-decade winter fairytale — snow blanketing the vineyards — and spent the day spellbound on our tour. Tradition and cutting-edge innovation aren’t clashing here… they’re dancing. My heart was stolen by: ✨ Vylyan – Bold, fruit-driven beauties in a jaw-dropping contemporary winery. Second-gen winemaker Sándor is pure fire and curiosity ✨ Bock – The legendary godfather whose storytelling leaves you utterly charmed. Classic, powerful, soulful reds that demand respect ✨ Csányi – Big but polished to perfection. Elegance in every glass ✨ Gere Attila – The grand patriarch whose stories wrap around you like velvet and won’t let go. Refined, sophisticated, endlessly innovative ✨ Günzer Tamás – Family passion on overdrive & impossible not to love Vylyan Terasz Perched atop the Fekete-hegy with panoramic views across the vineyard quilt, Vylyan is a story of generational evolution. Founded in the early 1990s by a visionary father, the estate is now led by second-generation economist Flóra and her mother, guided since 2017 by winemaker Sándor Montecucco. Creative friction between tradition and modernity is palpable—and highly productive. Vylyan has always treated wine as a form of art and the label as its canvas. From the very beginning, the winery collaborated with prominent contemporary Hungarian artists (especially István ef Zámbó, Oszkár Papp, and others from the neo-avant-garde circle), turning every bottle into a small, collectible piece of art. They are a manifesto of the winery’s values—biodiversity, feminine energy, lunar rhythm, playful duality of devil and angel, and the fusion of fine wine with contemporary Hungarian art. Signature tasting notes: The marriage of contemporary art (textured, braille-like labels) and cutting-edge winemaking makes Vylyan a must-visit for anyone seeking the new face of Villány. Bock Winery There are cellars, and then there is Bock’s underground cathedral. József Bock senior carved these tunnels out of the limestone with his own hands in the 1970s, and the oldest sections have remained untouched since the early 1990s. Black mold carpets every surface like velvet; the air is thick, cool, and sacred. Bottles from the very first private vintages lie quietly under decades of noble rot—no temperature control, no interference, just time. Standing there in candlelight among those silent rows is the closest most of us will ever come to a wine pilgrimage. We were privileged to taste two museum treasures pulled straight from that living archive: Then came the magic above ground. We gathered around a long wooden communal table that felt like it had hosted a thousand family feasts. On a crisp, chilly winter day, József junior welcomed us like long-lost cousins. Sparkling wines flowed: the creamy Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs 2020, the razor-sharp Bock Marcell Cuvée Brut Nature 2021, and a brand-new Sauvignon Blanc fizz that cut beautifully through velvety roasted-pumpkin soup. The soul-warming main course—slow-roasted pork paired with the majestic Capella 2012 (deep, harmonious, still climbing)—had everyone groaning with happiness. Between courses, József told stories: tales of playing in the vineyards as a child, of digging those cellars alongside his father and the wines that his wife loves. His eyes sparkled with pride, yet his voice stayed gentle and humble. You couldn’t help but fall a little in love with the man and the place. Csányi Winery (Teleki Cellars) One of Hungary’s largest and most forward-thinking private producers, Csányi has quietly transformed the historic Teleki estate into a powerhouse of precision and varietal expression. While most estates lean on tradition, Csányi straps satellites to the sky to spy on every vine, plants with computer-guided precision, and throws daring curveballs like Malbec, Grüner Veltliner, and a wickedly fresh Syrah rosé into the heart of red-wine country to deep inside the wine cellar, photocatalytic oxidation (PCO) works like invisible magic: powerful UV light strikes a titanium-dioxide catalyst, instantly transforming mold spores, bacteria, unwanted odor to clean air, zero chemicals, perfect peace for sleeping barrels. Fresh from a multimillion-forint glow-up, their gleaming new winery hums with cutting-edge gear, yet the soul still traces back to 19th-century legend Zsigmond Teleki. László Romsics, CEO, along with head winemaker guided us through the tasting and philosophy of the winery. The tasting was electric: Csányi proves that scale and soul can coexist beautifully. Gere Attila If Villány has a spiritual home of elegance, it is here, in the low-lit barrel hall of Gere Attila, where time seems to slow the moment you step inside. Attila Gere doesn’t just pour wine; he tells its life story. With a voice like aged velvet and eyes that spark every time a barrel is tapped, he pulls samples of 2023 and 2024 Cabernet Franc that are still raw, electric, and singing with red-berry precision. Then comes the 2025 Merlot–Franc blend still fermenting, wild and silk-promised. He speaks of each one as if introducing his children: “This one will be bold, this one quiet, but all of them must speak with their own fruit first.” Oak, he insists with a gentle smile, is only the frame; the picture has to be the vineyard. Between barrels he drifts into tales: the first vines he planted with his father, the 1991 harvest that almost broke them, the night in 2008 he set aside a single barrel of
Why Villány Is a Home for Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc didn’t just stumble into Villány and strike gold—it found a terroir that feels tailor-made for its finest qualities. Hungary’s southernmost wine region sits at the same latitude as northern Bordeaux, yet enjoys a warmer, more continental climate. With 2,100–2,200 hours of sunshine a year (among the highest in the country) and long, dry autumns, Villány reliably delivers full physiological ripeness without sacrificing acidity. In cooler climates, Cabernet Franc can turn lean, herbal, and aggressively pyrazinic. Here, it unfurls dense blue and black fruit—cassis, blueberry, black cherry—along with pronounced violet notes and that signature cracked-pepper and tobacco-leaf spice, all wrapped in vibrant freshness. The soils are the clincher. The finest sites, particularly the Siklós and Fekete-hegy slopes, rest on thick Eocene limestone capped with loess and red clay. The active calcium in the limestone promotes refined, polymerised tannins and superb drainage, forcing vines to root deeply (often 6–10 metres) in search of water. Yields stay naturally low—rarely exceeding 35–45 hl/ha in top parcels—and the small berries deliver intense colour, firm yet silky tannic structure, and explosive aromatics. A pronounced diurnal shift locks in the magic: September days can climb to 28–30 °C, while nights drop to 10–14 °C, preserving malic acid and perfume. The surrounding hills shield vines from cold northern winds, and morning fog rolling in from the Drava River valley gently extends hang-time. Hungarian growers didn’t leave it to chance. From the early 1990s, pioneers such as Attila Gere and József Bock planted top-quality Loire and Bordeaux clones on devigorating rootstocks. Meticulous canopy management—vertical shoot positioning, aggressive morning-side leaf thinning, and green harvesting—has become standard at the best estates, pushing concentration while keeping alcohols in an elegant 13–14 % range. Furthermore, to cement its reputation, Villány implemented one of Europe’s most stringent protected-origin systems and established the Villányi Franc designation—a category reserved exclusively for varietal Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Franc-based blends that meet exacting production criteria. Within this framework, two upper tiers were created: These designations are far more than marketing labels; they represent a deliberate shift toward a refined, terroir-expressive style. To qualify, yields are strictly limited, only the region’s top vineyard sites are eligible, and the wines must exhibit balanced alcohol levels (typically 13–14 %), bright natural acidity, finely polymerised tannins, and a clear imprint of Villány’s limestone-driven minerality. Heavy extraction, excessive oak influence, and overripeness are effectively excluded by regulation. The objective to move beyond the powerful, internationally influenced reds that characterized the post-communist era and to establish a distinctive, elegant, and age-worthy Villány signature—one capable of standing alongside the finest examples from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux’s Right Bank. The Franc & Franc Jubilee Conference: A Decade of Leadership The Franc & Franc Jubilee Conference opened in Villány with electric energy, marking ten years of the region’s rise as a global beacon for Cabernet Franc. Before the official conference kicked off, international guests were treated to an exclusive, intimate preview tasting that felt like sneaking into the cellar after hours. This wasn’t just a polite welcome pour—it was a full-on seduction showcasing Villány’s broader brilliance beyond its beloved Cabernet Franc. We dove into a dazzling line-up: The opening tasting set the tone: a curated flight of twelve benchmark Hungarian wines—two Classics, six Premium, and four Super Premium selections—showcasing the extraordinary depth, precision, and consistency Villány has achieved with the variety. Day one began with heartfelt words from the pioneers themselves, József Bock and Attila Gere. What moved me most was the turnout: fully 80 % of Villány’s producers were present—an extraordinary show of unity and regional passion. In an industry often defined by fierce individualism, this near-total community mobilisation revealed a rare spirit of collaboration and shared ambition. The symposium sessions were every bit as compelling as the wines. “Unity in Diversity” explored how Villány’s mosaic of terroirs produces strikingly different yet unmistakably related expressions. A deep dive into the impact of skin-contact duration illuminated its profound influence on flavour, colour, and structure. We then travelled the globe—from the Loire to Tuscany (presented by Pasi Ketolainen MW, South Africa (presented by South African winemaker Reino Thiart), Argentina, Chile, and the United States (presented by Peter McCombie MW) —marvelling at Cabernet Franc’s astonishing versatility. A special tasting of Villány through the decades as we journeyed from 2015, 2009 and 2006. Each one had its own identity, freshness and expressed the true refinement of Cab Franc. Villány is not just part of the Cabernet Franc conversation – it is helping define its future. Ten years on, Franc & Franc has evolved from a regional celebration into the world’s premier annual gathering for serious Cabernet Franc lovers and professionals. This community isn’t just riding the wave; they’re steering it. My heartfelt thank you to Andras Horkay & the organizers for this unforgettable journey through unity in diversity and to the new connections made The next decade promises to be exhilarating. If you love Cabernet Franc, book your ticket to Villány now. You won’t just taste great wine—you’ll witness a revolution in the making. Welcome Dinner – Sauska 48 Hungary’s only Michelin-starred restaurant outside Budapest, tucked inside the breathtaking Sauska estate overlooking the moonlit vineyards. Sleek architecture, warm lighting, and an open style kitchen that treats local ingredients like royalty. The evening was a dazzling collaboration between two of the country’s most visionary producers: Sauska and Heumann. Sauska is the restless perfectionist who decided Hungary’s two greatest wine regions deserved the same uncompromising vision. Christian Sauska began in 1999 by resurrecting forgotten volcanic slopes in Tokaj, turning them into benchmarks for crystalline dry Furmint and legendary Aszú. In 2007 he crossed the country to Villány, built a gravity-flow masterpiece on limestone ridges, and started crafting reds that instantly stood shoulder-to-shoulder with the region’s icons. Today he farms 120 hectares split evenly between Tokaj’s electric whites and Villány’s dark, spicy reds—obsessively low yields, zero compromise, pure terroir in every bottle. Whether it’s a Furmint that crackles with minerality, a velvet Villány Cabernet Franc, or a 20-year-old Aszú
Lugana’s Lingering Sips
The final morning climbed poetic heights at the Tower of San Martino, a 74-meter Neo-Gothic spire erected in 1878 atop the hill where the 1859 Battle of Solferino raged – a bloody pivot in Italy’s Risorgimento that inspired the Red Cross. Ascending its spiraling ramp, frescoed panels by Venetian masters like Vittorio Bressanin unfolded tales of valor, the ossuary below a somber nod to 2,000 fallen souls. From the summit, Lugana’s patchwork vineyards unfurled like a green quilt, Lake Garda a sapphire thread binding it all. It’s a site that stirs the soul, reminding us wine’s roots tangle with history’s thorns. We descended to Corte Sermana for lunch, a boutique “Clos” vineyard since 2009, named for the stream marking Veneto-Lombardy lines. Brothers Nicolò and Filippo (third-gen growers) shared their 5-hectare plot’s secrets: white clays laced with calcium carbonate, yielding Turbiana of “remarkable finesse and mineral energy.” Corte Sermana sits right in the heart of the Lugana DOC, on the southern shore of Lake Garda in northern Italy. Tucked into a breathtaking corner just 15 metres from the water’s edge, the estate is cradled between the lake itself and the Sermana stream – the natural boundary between Veneto and Lombardy. This extraordinary position gifts the vines cool, breezy summer nights and ancient, mineral-rich glacial soils dominated by white clay and calcium carbonate – the ideal playground for the native Turbiana grape that gives Lugana its unmistakable soul. Filippo Bottacini greets us at the cellar door with the easy smile of someone who has just come in from the vines. At barely thirty-something, he already carries the calm authority of a man who trusts time more than trends. “People always ask me why we harvest so early for the sparkling base,” he says, pouring a crystal-clear 2025 vintage that won’t see bottle until next spring. “Simple. I want the wine to taste like the lake in September – cool, electric, alive.” The glass explodes with white flowers, sea breeze, and that unmistakable flinty mineral streak that only seems to appear when vineyards sit a few hundred meters from water. At 11.4% alcohol and a racy 7.6 g/L acidity, it feels like drinking a cold wave. Filippo swirls and smiles: “This is the freshness we fight for. Everything else – the yeast, the lees stirring, the three years we’ll give it – is just to protect that first electric impression.” We move to the tank room, where the full-harvest still wines rest. The difference is immediate. Where the sparkling base is all nerve and brightness, these lots (harvested just a week or two later) have already begun their slow transformation into something richer, rounder, almost velvety. “Same vineyard, same Turbiana grapes, six days apart,” Filippo shrugs, as if the miracle is the most natural thing in the world. He’s divided the estate into six blocks – some running north-south, others east-west – to capture every possible nuance of ripeness. “Machine harvesting used to be a dirty word around here,” he admits. “But we proved that with the right heads and soft pressing, you actually get cleaner aromatics. The skins break gently, the vegetable notes never appear, and suddenly the white flowers and exotic fruit arrive like they’ve been waiting for permission.” What strikes me most is the patience. While most Lugana producers rush wines to market, Corte Sermana refuses to bottle anything young. The sparkling wines get a full year on lees before even the second fermentation begins. The flagship white – a kaleidoscopic creature Filippo calls Kromago (chrom + lago = colors of the lake) – spends eight months in bottle before release and, he insists, only starts showing its true self after three or four years. “This is why we don’t put the year on the sparkling,” Filippo says. “I want people to taste the wine, not the label. In ten years these bottles will taste completely different again – that’s the point.” Lunch is served! There are bowls of bright salads, platters of house-cured lonza, coppa, and pancetta rolled so thin you can almost see Garda through it. An array of local cheeses and warm focaccia just out of the oven. And, because this is Corte Sermana, nine bottles standing like soldiers, waiting to be opened in ceremony. Filippo pours. We begin. We ended the meal with their Grappa di Lugana is gentle, almost creamy, with a clean almond finish paired with the authentic torcetti del Lago – the proper Lugana “cookie” for grappa. Eventually Filippo says quietly: “This is what the vineyard tastes like when it’s happy.” I believe him. And somewhere in my luggage, wrapped in two sweaters and a prayer, a bottle of 2015 Cromalgo is already dreaming of the next decade. Nestled on the southern shore of Lake Garda, in the heart of the Lugana DOC, stands Cà LoJera – “House of the Wolf” in local dialect. This small, fiercely independent estate is now in its third generation and feels more like a secret than a winery. The story begins in the early 1970s when Amalia and Pietro Tiraboschi planted the first vines. Today their son Franco and his wife Marta run every inch of the 16 hectares with their own hands and a stubborn refusal to compromise. No barrique, no selected yeasts, no rush – just old-vine Turbiana and that magical white clay soil that looks like you scooped it straight from the lake bed. Franco Tiraboschi is the winemaker, the philosopher, and the quiet guardian of all this magic. When you taste his wines – especially the immortal Riserva del Lupo – you’re tasting purity, patience, and absolute respect for Turbiana and that white clay. The name itself is pure legend. Centuries ago this farmhouse hid lake smugglers – the lupi (wolves) who moved contraband under moonlight. The ancient name of the land? Loyate – “House of the World”. Combine the two and you get Cà LoJera: the wolf’s den that opens its doors to the world. You’ll see the old house, the
Lugana Dreaming – Parte 2
The day began the way every perfect Italian evening should: with a boat. We met at Desenzano del Garda’s graceful port as the sun was beginning its slow descent, turning the water into liquid gold. A restored wooden riva – sleek, varnished mahogany glowing in the light – waited for us. The moment the lines were cast off, the world softened. We cruised north along the southern shore of Italy’s largest lake, past quiet bays and pastel villages, the breeze carrying the faint scent of fig trees and distant grills. Twenty magical minutes later, the fairy-tale silhouette of Sirmione rose from the water: the 13th-century Scaligero Castle, moat aglow, drawbridge silhouetted against the sky. The captain eased us straight through the castle’s watery entrance – an approach that still feels like slipping into another century – and tied up inside the historic center. From there it was a short, cypress-lined walk to the Grotte di Catullo. Perched at the very tip of the peninsula, these sprawling ruins of a 1st-century BC Roman villa are among northern Italy’s most evocative archaeological sites. Olive trees now shade fallen columns, wild caper bushes cling to ancient walls, and the views stretch across the endless lake to the Alps. Legend (though not history) links the villa to the poet Catullus, who called Sirmione “the pearl of all peninsulas.” Standing on the sun-warmed stones as the light faded, it was impossible not to feel the same enchantment two thousand years later. By the time we wandered back through the lantern-lit lanes, twilight had settled and anticipation was high. La Rucola 2.0 – the intimate, one-Michelin-starred jewel hidden just steps from the castle – opened its doors to our small group like an old friend. Inside, the stage was set for something extraordinary: a seven-course tasting menu created by chef Stefano Dall’Ospedale, our seven course meal including a fish from the region ineach dish expressly designed to converse with the Lugana wines of Sirmione’s finest producers. Nestled on the southern shore of Lake Garda, the tiny sub-region of Sirmione within the Lugana DOC stands out for its strikingly compact size and distinctive terroir. Home to just nine wineries, this narrow peninsula benefits from dense, heavy clay soils—often white or grayish in color—that retain water and impart remarkable structure and minerality to the wines. These calcium-rich clays, formed from ancient morainic deposits, give Sirmione’s Turbiana grapes a fuller body and pronounced savory character compared to the sandier, more perfumed expressions found further north in the appellation, making its limited-production Luganas some of the most powerful and age-worthy in the entire zone. Around the long table sat the people who make the magic happen: Chiara Perego (oenologue of Azienda Agricola Sgreva), Sara Salgaro of Tenuta Frontelago, Nunzio Ghiraldi himself, and Eliza Zordan from Cascina Maddalena, who moderated the evening with warmth and precision. Every time a new bottle was opened, the maker told the story behind the wine, and guided us through the glass while the perfectly timed course arrived. With every course, the room grew livelier. Stories of grandfathers planting the first vines, of siblings sketching labels at the kitchen table, of horses galloping between rows, of brain waves translated into art – each tale deepened the flavour in the glass. When we finally stepped back into the cool night air, the castle lights shimmering on the water and the lake lapping gently at the ancient walls, no one spoke for a long time. Some evenings feed the body. This one fed the soul. Sirmione, with its Roman ghosts, thermal springs, white-clay vineyards, and nine fiercely proud winemaking families, had worked its quiet spell once again.
Lugana Dreaming – Parte I:
From the Arches of Tenuta Roveglia to the Circle of Time at Selva Capuzza After a night wrapped in the soft hush of Desenzano del Garda, the morning light pulled us south along quiet country roads to Pozzolengo and Tenuta Roveglia – 120 hectares of vines, stories, and famously stubborn clay that have been making wine since the early 1400s. The estate was reborn in the early 1900s by Swiss immigrant Federico Zweifel, but today it is the three Azzone sisters – Sara, Vanessa, and the irrepressible Babettli – who are writing the most vibrant chapter yet. From the moment Babettli greets you with that knowing smile, you feel like you’ve been let in on a wonderful secret. Within minutes she quotes her father’s lifelong creed: “We need to promote the dream – Lugana – and not the winery.” He used to pedal from trattoria to trattoria with sample bottles strapped to his bicycle until the world finally sat up and listened. That same generous, collaborative spirit still pulses through every corner of Roveglia. It’s impossible to miss. Step into the foyer and you’re immediately enveloped by the “family wall” – a sprawling, joyful collage not just of the three sisters, but of every facet of the team – the office, the tractor driver, the seasonal picker, every cellar hand who has ever worked a harvest here. “They are Roveglia,” Babettli says, tapping a faded photo of a man who started at fourteen. “We don’t separate blood from chosen family.” Babettli herself is a whirlwind of passions. Trained as an HR specialist, she’s also a self-taught architect and an obsessive collector of antique telephones. Her office feels like a tiny museum of Bakelite rotaries and candy-apple-red Ericofons. “Each one has its own voice,” she murmurs, cradling a 1930s Siemens like a baby bird, “exactly like old vines.” That love of distinctive voices brought us straight out to the vineyard. She scoops up a fistful of the heavy white clay. “Wet, it’s glue. Dry, it’s stone.” Fifty-five-year-old roots barely reach five metres deep, spreading instead in a desperate spiderweb just to survive. “Survival mode,” she grins, “makes the wine more interesting.” All that character needed a worthy home, so Babettli designed one. To reach the new tasting room you descend a stone staircase behind a monumental door of reclaimed wood and iron – every plank salvaged from centuries-old barns and presses. “Nothing here is wasted,” she whispers, pushing it open like a secret. What waits below is pure, breath-stealing magic: a six-metre-deep golden cathedral of hand-built brick arches, no two alike, each curve sketched by Babettli herself and shaped by eye to carry the exact weight above. Hidden lights make the rosy terracotta glow, and the cool air is thick with the scent of earth and sleeping wine. Yet the true soul of the estate lives upstairs in the 16th-century Cascina Roveglia farmhouse. Thick limestone-and-clay walls – the very same moraine that gives Lugana its mineral snap – keep it cool in summer and cosy in winter. Ancient chestnut beams that once held grain now frame intimate tastings; pink Veronese rose marble floors shimmer beneath humble arches originally built for oxen, not ostentation. The former stable has become the coziest tasting room imaginable: a scarred oak table, a fireplace blackened by five centuries of smoke, family photos watching over us, and the low hum of sleek steel tanks just next door. At one point Babettli disappears for a moment and returns cradling their very first commercial vintage – 1989 – one of only twelve bottles left in the world. And then, beneath those glowing arches, the wines spoke for themselves. – Lugana Spumante Brut: A silver river of pinpoint bubbles carrying crisp green apple, spring flowers, and warm brioche. Dry, electric, celebratory. – Limne Lugana DOC: So pale it flashes green at the rim. Lime blossom, white peach fuzz, wet river stones – pure Garda breeze in a glass. – Vigne di Filiberto Lugana DOC: Ripe yellow plum, roasted almond, a twist of lemon confit, and a saline snap that makes your mouth water again and again. – Riserva Vigne di Catullo Lugana DOC 2012 – Cork vs Screwcap: Deep, luminous gold. The nose explodes: candied orange, acacia honey, toasted hazelnut, smoky minerals. Velvety, almost chewy, then a blade of acidity lifts ginger biscuit and sea salt into an endless, resonant finish. The cork bottle was tired and mushroomy; the screw-cap version still singing with lemon peel and almond blossom. “Dad made the switch in 2007,” she laughs. “Everyone thought he was crazy. Sales tripled the next year.” – Bonus: 2021 Late-Harvest VT : Golden like November sun, swirling with candied ginger, toasted walnut, and river-stone freshness. 14 g/L of honeyed sweetness balanced by acidity so bright your jaw tingles. “A me-wine,” Babettli declares, a wine that can last an hour. We left Roveglia with hearts full and Babettli’s parting words ringing in our ears: “Now go taste the other side of the dream.” So we pointed the car just a few kilometres east, toward the hills of San Martino della Battaglia and Podere Selva Capuzza – another family, another century-old cascina, another unforgettable chapter of Lugana waiting to be uncorked. We left Roveglia with hearts full, and Babettli’s parting words ringing in our ears: “Now go taste the other side of the dream.” So we pointed the car just a few kilometres east, toward the hills of San Martino della Battaglia and Podere Selva Capuzza – another family, another century-old cascina, another unforgettable chapter of Lugana waiting to be uncorked. We didn’t taste in a cellar or a sleek tasting room – we tasted right where the magic happens, among the vines of the San Biagio vineyard at Podere Selva Capuzza, in the heart of the Lugana DOC on the gentle morainic hills of San Martino del Garda, just a few kilometres south of magnificent Lake Garda itself. Glasses balanced on an old wooden table facing the rows, late-afternoon
Pour, Adore, Repeat in Lugana- White Wine Elegance
Nestled along the southern shores of Lake Garda, Lugana DOC stands as Italy’s most refined lakeside white wine appellation. Spanning the border between Lombardy and Veneto in northern Italy, this designated area forms a narrow, crescent-shaped corridor encompassing five key communes: Sirmione, Desenzano del Garda, Pozzolengo, Lonato del Garda, and Peschiera del Garda. Framed by morainic hills shaped by ancient glaciers, Lugana’s distinctive white-clay and limestone soils impart remarkable minerality and aging potential to its signature grape, Turbiana (locally known as Trebbiano di Lugana). In essence: a sophisticated white wine region, just 20 minutes from Lake Garda’s crystalline waters. Having explored vintages from Umbria’s robust Sagrantino vineyards to the sunlit hills of Chianti in Tuscany, I arrived in Lugana last autumn with keen anticipation. Hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana and Nonni Marketing, this press trip transcended routine tastings and tours. It offered an immersive tribute to Turbiana—the resilient grape that defines Lugana’s elegant, mineral-driven whites. Over three radiant days, I toured historic cellars, enjoyed locally sourced cuisine, and embraced the serene cadence of the lake. For wine enthusiasts and discerning travelers alike, allow me to guide you through this captivating journey. Arrival at Le Morette: A Memorable Introduction Our journey commenced immediately upon arrival at Le Morette. Before alighting from the vehicle, third-generation proprietor Fabio Zenato presented a chilled flute of the estate’s Metodo Classico Brut—a sparkling Turbiana alive with green apple, brioche, and a precise saline finish. The effervescence evoked sunlight dancing across Lake Garda, setting an inviting tone. Fabio’s dedication mirrors the depth of the estate’s 40 hectares, situated between Garda’s southern shores and the UNESCO-protected Frassino Lake—a habitat for wild ducks (the name Le Morette, meaning “little brunettes,” pays homage to these birds). An introductory masterclass, conducted by JC Viens of Grande Passione, transformed technical terroir discussion into an engaging narrative. With experience spanning Hong Kong’s wine scene to Italian ambassadorships, JC illuminated Lugana’s inter-regional character, its glacial clay-rich soils, and the grape’s Verdicchio lineage. Confirmed by DNA analysis as a distinct variety, Turbiana thrives under the lake’s microclimate: warming Ora winds by day and cooling Pelèr breezes by night, yielding wines of vibrant acidity and refined texture. “Duality in a bottle,” he noted—suitable for casual aperitifs yet capable of graceful evolution. Notable selections included: Fabio then led a comprehensive tour of the 60-hectare certified organic estate. We traversed sunlit vineyards and descended into cool underground cellars featuring stainless steel and sustainable innovations. Originating as a vine nursery in the 1950s, the family grafts Turbiana onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks—a process Fabio demonstrated with precision, underscoring the blend of tradition and science that sustains the region. The modern winery integrates geothermal systems within a restored 19th-century farmhouse, employing gravity-fed presses and subtle oak influence. Lunch, hosted by Fabio, featured seafood saffron risotto with lake perch and shrimp, paired seamlessly with Le Morette’s portfolio. He recounted the family’s postwar legacy and Turbiana’s central role in Lugana’s identity. Evening Elegance at Hotel Piccola Vela We settled at Hotel Piccola Vela in Desenzano del Garda—a contemporary lakeside retreat offering minimalist accommodations, private beach access, an infinity pool blending with the horizon, and a spa featuring vinotherapy. It provided an ideal respite. As dusk approached, we gathered on the rooftop with Cà Lojera’s Belle Metodo Classico Brut Zero 2018—a zero-dosage sparkler from 50-year-old vines, aged 36 months on lees. Its focused citrus, mineral precision, and fine mousse harmonized with the sunset. The evening culminated in a welcome Apericena hosted by the Lugana Board of Directors. Amid convivial exchange, we sampled offerings from Tenuta Corbari, Pasini San Giovanni, Montonale, Fraccaroli, Citari, Ca’ dei Frati, Sansonina, Cantina Coarse, and Zenato—ranging from delicate sparklers to structured reserves. Key tasting notes: Lugana DOC represents more than a wine region—it embodies a harmonious balance of tradition, innovation, and natural beauty. From the meticulous grafting at Le Morette to the panoramic tastings at Hotel Piccola Vela, Turbiana reveals remarkable versatility: crisp enough for casual enjoyment, yet profound in its capacity to evolve. With 60–70% of production exported to discerning markets in Germany and the United States, Lugana maintains an aura of understated excellence. For wine professionals and collectors, these bottlings offer intellectual depth and exceptional value. For travelers, the communes along Lake Garda promise cultural richness, culinary authenticity, and restorative landscapes. This press trip reaffirmed Lugana’s quiet authority in Italy’s viticultural canon—an invitation to savor elegance in its purest form. Whether planning a vineyard pilgrimage or seeking the perfect white for your table, let Lugana be your next discovery. Day two next!
La Carbona: Sherry & Michelin Stars in Jerez
Nestled in the sun-drenched heart of Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia’s sherry capital, La Carbona occupies a space that’s equal parts history lesson and love letter to the region’s viticultural soul. Housed within the restored 19th-century Bodegas González Byass – the legendary cellars where Fundador Brandy has been aging for over two centuries – the restaurant feels like stepping into a time capsule. Exposed brick walls, vaulted stone ceilings, and towering oak barrels (some dating back to the 1800s) create an intimate, almost subterranean cocoon, where the air hums with the faint, nutty aroma of oxidative sherries fermenting nearby. It’s not your typical white-tablecloth affair; instead, it’s a rustic-elegant haven that blends industrial heritage with modern refinement. Outside, the cobbled streets of Jerez whisper of flamenco rhythms and equestrian parades, but inside, time slows to the deliberate pour of a fino from a criadera. We opted for the crown jewel of the menu: the 7-course tasting extravaganza, meticulously paired with an exclusive selection from González Byass’s sherry portfolio and a digestif flourish from Fundador Brandy. At €150 per person (a steal for this caliber), it promised – and delivered – a narrative arc of flavors that danced between the bracing salinity of coastal Jerez and the opulent depth of its solera-aged treasures. Chef Israel Rodríguez, La Carbona’s visionary, channels Andalusian tradition through a contemporary lens, drawing from the bodega’s own larder of seasonal bounty. Each course arrived like a chapter in an unpublished novella, with the sherries acting as both chorus and counterpoint. Service, led by sommelier extraordinaire Ana Morales, was poetic: unobtrusive yet profoundly knowledgeable, with pairings explained in hushed tones that felt like sharing secrets over a late-night copita. The overture opened with Sardinas Ahumadas – lightly smoked sardines atop a confit of onions and piquillo peppers, their briny punch tempered by a velvety Tío Pepe Fino (González Byass’s crisp, almond-flecked icon). The sherry’s marine edge cut through the fish’s richness like a Moorish blade, evoking Jerez’s Atlantic proximity. Next, a playful Gazpacho de Tomate y Pimiento followed, chilled to perfection with a swirl of basil oil and fermented garlic. Paired with a rare La Guita Manzanilla (nutty and saline, with chamomile whispers), it was summer in a bowl – refreshing yet intellectually layered, the sherry’s flor notes mirroring the soup’s subtle umami. Transitioning to heartier terrain, the Pollo Asado con Confited Garlic arrived as a golden, herb-crusted half-bird, its skin crackling under the fork, juices mingling with roasted carrots and a jus laced with bay leaf. Here, the Equipo Navazos Amontillado (dry, oxidative, with hazelnut and orange zest) stepped in like a mischievous storyteller, its oxidative bite amplifying the poultry’s savoriness without overwhelming. Midway, a palate-cleansing interlude of Molletes de Aceite – fluffy olive oil bread bites with anchovy butter – bridged to the main act: Costillas de Ternera Glaseadas, slow-braised short ribs that melted into oblivion, glazed with a reduction of Pedro Ximénez and wild thyme. The bold, raisiny PX Sherry (a González Byass classic) was pure decadence, its caramel depth wrapping the beef in a sweet-savory embrace that lingered like a flamenco echo. Vegetarian diversions shone too, with Pimientos del Padrón and Ensalada de Tomate providing bright, peppery interludes, their pairings a zippy Viña AB (young, fruity) that popped with citrus acidity. The crescendo built to Queso de Cabra con Membrillo, a creamy goat cheese from the Sierra de Grazalema, offset by quince paste and toasted Marcona almonds – elevated by the Oloroso Royal, a nutty, spicy sherry that evoked leather-bound libraries and forgotten cellars. The finale? A whisper of elegance in Helado de Turrón, almond nougat ice cream drizzled with honey and pistachios, before the brandy encore: a velvety sip of Fundador Supremo, its vanilla-oak warmth cutting through the dessert’s sweetness like aged wisdom. At 40% ABV, it was the perfect denouement – contemplative, not cloying. The atmosphere – dimly lit, with live guitar strums on weekends and the occasional sherry tasting in adjacent rooms – fosters romance and reverie, ideal for anniversaries or solo reflections. At one Michelin star since 2022, it earns every accolade for innovation rooted in reverence. Reflecting on this journey, it’s clear that Spanish sherry and brandy are more than beverages—they are cultural treasures that embody centuries of heritage, craftsmanship, and innovation. Whether savored in historic cellars or paired with culinary excellence, these spirits continue to inspire and enchant enthusiasts around the world, carrying forward a legacy as vibrant and enduring as Andalusia itself. If you’re in Andalusia, detour here; it’s not just a meal, but a memory etched in sherry’s amber glow.
Vale dos Vinhedos: Your Next Wine Pilgrimage at Ales Victoria & Spa do Vinho
Imagine this: basalt cliffs crumbling into iron-rich dust beneath century-old vines, golden sunlight painting the hills of Brazil’s only DO region, and a glass of Merlot so vivid it tastes like freedom on horseback. This isn’t Tuscany. This isn’t Napa. This is Vale dos Vinhedos, and at its beating heart are Ales Victoria—a boutique winery rewriting Brazil’s fine wine story—and Spa do Vinho, where vinotherapy meets pure indulgence. I went as a wine professional. I left converted. Here’s why you—wine lover, wanderluster, seeker of the next great terroir—need to go. They are developing Brazil as a wine destination. Ales Victoria: Where Brazil’s Soul Meets the Glass Deborah and Aldemir Dadalt translate their twenty-two hectares of lands, satellite-mapped with surgical precision, sit in the cradle of Brazil’s GI movement. Every vine is a declaration: This is us. This is now. Walk the rows and history breathes. 150-year-old Isabella Labrusca vines—brought by Italian settlers—still fruit under the latada pergola, a living cathedral of green arches you duck beneath. The oldest Merlot? A defiant 25-year-old, roots clawing through basalt so hard it rings like iron, then powdery layers of calcium and iron, semi-precious stones, sand, clay, humus. This isn’t soil. It’s geology in a glass. Sustainability isn’t a buzzword here—it’s survival turned visionary. Water purified by plant roots. Original Atlantic forest preserved. And the future? PIWI varieties—disease-resistant hybrids—being trialed in rested parcels. Brazil’s climate armor. The Dadalts aren’t waiting for change. They’re building it. Twenty years ago, Michel Rolland walked these slopes and designed the front vineyard’s four sacred parcels. The proof is in the bottle. The Tasting: Four Wines That Demand Your Attention Spa do Vinho: Where Wellness Becomes Wine Ritual After the vines, surrender to Spa do Vinho—Brazil’s vinotherapy cathedral, and the crown jewel of a 5-star Autograph Collection hotel perched atop a hill amid 18 hectares of their own vineyards. This isn’t just recovery; it’s a full-body immersion in the valley’s magic, blending French-inspired Caudalie protocols with local terroir twists. Potable mineral water, drawn from the estate and warmed to a soothing 36.5°C (body temperature), powers the hydrotherapy circuits that simulate gentle river streams—think cascading jets, underwater massages, and effervescent grape baths that leave your skin humming. The Vino Spa’s arsenal is a vinophile’s dream: Signature vinotherapy treatments using polyphenolic grape extracts for anti-aging facials, detox body wraps, and restorative massages that melt away jet lag (or post-tasting haze). Indulge in a classic grape-seed scrub or a red-wine bath ritual, then ease into the therapeutic heated pool for zero-gravity floats with vineyard views. Follow with a steam session in the wet sauna, a barefoot trek along the invigorating stone path for reflexology perks, or a sun-soaked lounge in the solarium—panoramic glass walls framing endless rows of Merlot and Tannat. It’s wellness with a 700-label cellar soundtrack. And the Codallie? That ethereal perfume distilled from Chardonnay blossoms—harvested in one fleeting, fragrant week—now feels like the spa’s secret handshake. Spritz it post-treatment, and you’re wearing the vineyard. The hotel itself elevates the stay into a seamless wine-country escape. Check in with a welcome glass of sparkling méthode traditionnelle, then settle into one of 128 air-conditioned rooms—many with private balconies overlooking the vines, stone fireplaces for chilly evenings, pillowtop beds draped in crisp linens, and minibars stocked with local sparklers. Marble bathrooms stock Vino.Spa exclusives: think lavender-infused robes, hair dryers, and rainfall showers big enough for two. Dining? A terroir feast across five venues: Leopoldina Restaurant for elegant Brazilian tasting menus paired with rare vintages; Bistrô Culinária de Terroir’s à la carte farm-fresh plates; sunset parrillas at Esplanada Gaúcha with valley panoramas; casual bites at the Gastrobar; or intimate enoteca sessions at Vino.Libris. Free breakfast is a spread of regional cheeses, house-made jams, fresh pastries, and—yes—complimentary espumante to toast the morning. Sip at the rooftop bar as dusk falls, or unwind poolside with craft cocktails. Active souls, rejoice: A 24-hour fitness center keeps you sharp, while outdoor pursuits include tennis courts for a friendly rally, an outdoor infinity pool blending into the horizon, a bubbling spa tub, and even hot-air balloon rides over the DO for aerial terroir scouting. Families or groups? Kid-friendly pools and event spaces (up to 5,400 sq ft for weddings or wine seminars) seal the deal. Free WiFi blankets the property, complimentary valet parking eases arrivals, and a concierge can orchestrate winery tours or cooking classes. It’s 15 minutes from Bento Gonçalves’ center, yet worlds away—a bucolic bubble where service feels familial, not fussy. The cellar? Brazil’s largest: 700 labels, 40,000 bottles, every wine available by the glass via Coravin. Winemakers from Rio Grande to São Paulo gather here. This isn’t a tasting room. It’s a think tank with stemware. Vale dos Vinhedos isn’t “up and coming.” It’s arriving. Ales Victoria proves Brazil can craft age-worthy, site-specific reds and whites that rival the world’s best. Spa do Vinho turns recovery into ritual—and the hotel wraps it in Tuscan elegance amid endless vines. Book the flight. Pack light. Bring hunger—for flavor, for story, for the next great wine frontier. Because the dark horse is running. And it’s headed straight for your glass. Who’s coming with me?