Lugana Dreaming – Parte I:
From the Arches of Tenuta Roveglia to the Circle of Time at Selva Capuzza After a night wrapped in the soft hush of Desenzano del Garda, the morning light pulled us south along quiet country roads to Pozzolengo and Tenuta Roveglia – 120 hectares of vines, stories, and famously stubborn clay that have been making wine since the early 1400s. The estate was reborn in the early 1900s by Swiss immigrant Federico Zweifel, but today it is the three Azzone sisters – Sara, Vanessa, and the irrepressible Babettli – who are writing the most vibrant chapter yet. From the moment Babettli greets you with that knowing smile, you feel like you’ve been let in on a wonderful secret. Within minutes she quotes her father’s lifelong creed: “We need to promote the dream – Lugana – and not the winery.” He used to pedal from trattoria to trattoria with sample bottles strapped to his bicycle until the world finally sat up and listened. That same generous, collaborative spirit still pulses through every corner of Roveglia. It’s impossible to miss. Step into the foyer and you’re immediately enveloped by the “family wall” – a sprawling, joyful collage not just of the three sisters, but of every facet of the team – the office, the tractor driver, the seasonal picker, every cellar hand who has ever worked a harvest here. “They are Roveglia,” Babettli says, tapping a faded photo of a man who started at fourteen. “We don’t separate blood from chosen family.” Babettli herself is a whirlwind of passions. Trained as an HR specialist, she’s also a self-taught architect and an obsessive collector of antique telephones. Her office feels like a tiny museum of Bakelite rotaries and candy-apple-red Ericofons. “Each one has its own voice,” she murmurs, cradling a 1930s Siemens like a baby bird, “exactly like old vines.” That love of distinctive voices brought us straight out to the vineyard. She scoops up a fistful of the heavy white clay. “Wet, it’s glue. Dry, it’s stone.” Fifty-five-year-old roots barely reach five metres deep, spreading instead in a desperate spiderweb just to survive. “Survival mode,” she grins, “makes the wine more interesting.” All that character needed a worthy home, so Babettli designed one. To reach the new tasting room you descend a stone staircase behind a monumental door of reclaimed wood and iron – every plank salvaged from centuries-old barns and presses. “Nothing here is wasted,” she whispers, pushing it open like a secret. What waits below is pure, breath-stealing magic: a six-metre-deep golden cathedral of hand-built brick arches, no two alike, each curve sketched by Babettli herself and shaped by eye to carry the exact weight above. Hidden lights make the rosy terracotta glow, and the cool air is thick with the scent of earth and sleeping wine. Yet the true soul of the estate lives upstairs in the 16th-century Cascina Roveglia farmhouse. Thick limestone-and-clay walls – the very same moraine that gives Lugana its mineral snap – keep it cool in summer and cosy in winter. Ancient chestnut beams that once held grain now frame intimate tastings; pink Veronese rose marble floors shimmer beneath humble arches originally built for oxen, not ostentation. The former stable has become the coziest tasting room imaginable: a scarred oak table, a fireplace blackened by five centuries of smoke, family photos watching over us, and the low hum of sleek steel tanks just next door. At one point Babettli disappears for a moment and returns cradling their very first commercial vintage – 1989 – one of only twelve bottles left in the world. And then, beneath those glowing arches, the wines spoke for themselves. – Lugana Spumante Brut: A silver river of pinpoint bubbles carrying crisp green apple, spring flowers, and warm brioche. Dry, electric, celebratory. – Limne Lugana DOC: So pale it flashes green at the rim. Lime blossom, white peach fuzz, wet river stones – pure Garda breeze in a glass. – Vigne di Filiberto Lugana DOC: Ripe yellow plum, roasted almond, a twist of lemon confit, and a saline snap that makes your mouth water again and again. – Riserva Vigne di Catullo Lugana DOC 2012 – Cork vs Screwcap: Deep, luminous gold. The nose explodes: candied orange, acacia honey, toasted hazelnut, smoky minerals. Velvety, almost chewy, then a blade of acidity lifts ginger biscuit and sea salt into an endless, resonant finish. The cork bottle was tired and mushroomy; the screw-cap version still singing with lemon peel and almond blossom. “Dad made the switch in 2007,” she laughs. “Everyone thought he was crazy. Sales tripled the next year.” – Bonus: 2021 Late-Harvest VT : Golden like November sun, swirling with candied ginger, toasted walnut, and river-stone freshness. 14 g/L of honeyed sweetness balanced by acidity so bright your jaw tingles. “A me-wine,” Babettli declares, a wine that can last an hour. We left Roveglia with hearts full and Babettli’s parting words ringing in our ears: “Now go taste the other side of the dream.” So we pointed the car just a few kilometres east, toward the hills of San Martino della Battaglia and Podere Selva Capuzza – another family, another century-old cascina, another unforgettable chapter of Lugana waiting to be uncorked. We left Roveglia with hearts full, and Babettli’s parting words ringing in our ears: “Now go taste the other side of the dream.” So we pointed the car just a few kilometres east, toward the hills of San Martino della Battaglia and Podere Selva Capuzza – another family, another century-old cascina, another unforgettable chapter of Lugana waiting to be uncorked. We didn’t taste in a cellar or a sleek tasting room – we tasted right where the magic happens, among the vines of the San Biagio vineyard at Podere Selva Capuzza, in the heart of the Lugana DOC on the gentle morainic hills of San Martino del Garda, just a few kilometres south of magnificent Lake Garda itself. Glasses balanced on an old wooden table facing the rows, late-afternoon
Pour, Adore, Repeat in Lugana- White Wine Elegance
Nestled along the southern shores of Lake Garda, Lugana DOC stands as Italy’s most refined lakeside white wine appellation. Spanning the border between Lombardy and Veneto in northern Italy, this designated area forms a narrow, crescent-shaped corridor encompassing five key communes: Sirmione, Desenzano del Garda, Pozzolengo, Lonato del Garda, and Peschiera del Garda. Framed by morainic hills shaped by ancient glaciers, Lugana’s distinctive white-clay and limestone soils impart remarkable minerality and aging potential to its signature grape, Turbiana (locally known as Trebbiano di Lugana). In essence: a sophisticated white wine region, just 20 minutes from Lake Garda’s crystalline waters. Having explored vintages from Umbria’s robust Sagrantino vineyards to the sunlit hills of Chianti in Tuscany, I arrived in Lugana last autumn with keen anticipation. Hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana and Nonni Marketing, this press trip transcended routine tastings and tours. It offered an immersive tribute to Turbiana—the resilient grape that defines Lugana’s elegant, mineral-driven whites. Over three radiant days, I toured historic cellars, enjoyed locally sourced cuisine, and embraced the serene cadence of the lake. For wine enthusiasts and discerning travelers alike, allow me to guide you through this captivating journey. Arrival at Le Morette: A Memorable Introduction Our journey commenced immediately upon arrival at Le Morette. Before alighting from the vehicle, third-generation proprietor Fabio Zenato presented a chilled flute of the estate’s Metodo Classico Brut—a sparkling Turbiana alive with green apple, brioche, and a precise saline finish. The effervescence evoked sunlight dancing across Lake Garda, setting an inviting tone. Fabio’s dedication mirrors the depth of the estate’s 40 hectares, situated between Garda’s southern shores and the UNESCO-protected Frassino Lake—a habitat for wild ducks (the name Le Morette, meaning “little brunettes,” pays homage to these birds). An introductory masterclass, conducted by JC Viens of Grande Passione, transformed technical terroir discussion into an engaging narrative. With experience spanning Hong Kong’s wine scene to Italian ambassadorships, JC illuminated Lugana’s inter-regional character, its glacial clay-rich soils, and the grape’s Verdicchio lineage. Confirmed by DNA analysis as a distinct variety, Turbiana thrives under the lake’s microclimate: warming Ora winds by day and cooling Pelèr breezes by night, yielding wines of vibrant acidity and refined texture. “Duality in a bottle,” he noted—suitable for casual aperitifs yet capable of graceful evolution. Notable selections included: Fabio then led a comprehensive tour of the 60-hectare certified organic estate. We traversed sunlit vineyards and descended into cool underground cellars featuring stainless steel and sustainable innovations. Originating as a vine nursery in the 1950s, the family grafts Turbiana onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks—a process Fabio demonstrated with precision, underscoring the blend of tradition and science that sustains the region. The modern winery integrates geothermal systems within a restored 19th-century farmhouse, employing gravity-fed presses and subtle oak influence. Lunch, hosted by Fabio, featured seafood saffron risotto with lake perch and shrimp, paired seamlessly with Le Morette’s portfolio. He recounted the family’s postwar legacy and Turbiana’s central role in Lugana’s identity. Evening Elegance at Hotel Piccola Vela We settled at Hotel Piccola Vela in Desenzano del Garda—a contemporary lakeside retreat offering minimalist accommodations, private beach access, an infinity pool blending with the horizon, and a spa featuring vinotherapy. It provided an ideal respite. As dusk approached, we gathered on the rooftop with Cà Lojera’s Belle Metodo Classico Brut Zero 2018—a zero-dosage sparkler from 50-year-old vines, aged 36 months on lees. Its focused citrus, mineral precision, and fine mousse harmonized with the sunset. The evening culminated in a welcome Apericena hosted by the Lugana Board of Directors. Amid convivial exchange, we sampled offerings from Tenuta Corbari, Pasini San Giovanni, Montonale, Fraccaroli, Citari, Ca’ dei Frati, Sansonina, Cantina Coarse, and Zenato—ranging from delicate sparklers to structured reserves. Key tasting notes: Lugana DOC represents more than a wine region—it embodies a harmonious balance of tradition, innovation, and natural beauty. From the meticulous grafting at Le Morette to the panoramic tastings at Hotel Piccola Vela, Turbiana reveals remarkable versatility: crisp enough for casual enjoyment, yet profound in its capacity to evolve. With 60–70% of production exported to discerning markets in Germany and the United States, Lugana maintains an aura of understated excellence. For wine professionals and collectors, these bottlings offer intellectual depth and exceptional value. For travelers, the communes along Lake Garda promise cultural richness, culinary authenticity, and restorative landscapes. This press trip reaffirmed Lugana’s quiet authority in Italy’s viticultural canon—an invitation to savor elegance in its purest form. Whether planning a vineyard pilgrimage or seeking the perfect white for your table, let Lugana be your next discovery. Day two next!
La Carbona: Sherry & Michelin Stars in Jerez
Nestled in the sun-drenched heart of Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia’s sherry capital, La Carbona occupies a space that’s equal parts history lesson and love letter to the region’s viticultural soul. Housed within the restored 19th-century Bodegas González Byass – the legendary cellars where Fundador Brandy has been aging for over two centuries – the restaurant feels like stepping into a time capsule. Exposed brick walls, vaulted stone ceilings, and towering oak barrels (some dating back to the 1800s) create an intimate, almost subterranean cocoon, where the air hums with the faint, nutty aroma of oxidative sherries fermenting nearby. It’s not your typical white-tablecloth affair; instead, it’s a rustic-elegant haven that blends industrial heritage with modern refinement. Outside, the cobbled streets of Jerez whisper of flamenco rhythms and equestrian parades, but inside, time slows to the deliberate pour of a fino from a criadera. We opted for the crown jewel of the menu: the 7-course tasting extravaganza, meticulously paired with an exclusive selection from González Byass’s sherry portfolio and a digestif flourish from Fundador Brandy. At €150 per person (a steal for this caliber), it promised – and delivered – a narrative arc of flavors that danced between the bracing salinity of coastal Jerez and the opulent depth of its solera-aged treasures. Chef Israel Rodríguez, La Carbona’s visionary, channels Andalusian tradition through a contemporary lens, drawing from the bodega’s own larder of seasonal bounty. Each course arrived like a chapter in an unpublished novella, with the sherries acting as both chorus and counterpoint. Service, led by sommelier extraordinaire Ana Morales, was poetic: unobtrusive yet profoundly knowledgeable, with pairings explained in hushed tones that felt like sharing secrets over a late-night copita. The overture opened with Sardinas Ahumadas – lightly smoked sardines atop a confit of onions and piquillo peppers, their briny punch tempered by a velvety Tío Pepe Fino (González Byass’s crisp, almond-flecked icon). The sherry’s marine edge cut through the fish’s richness like a Moorish blade, evoking Jerez’s Atlantic proximity. Next, a playful Gazpacho de Tomate y Pimiento followed, chilled to perfection with a swirl of basil oil and fermented garlic. Paired with a rare La Guita Manzanilla (nutty and saline, with chamomile whispers), it was summer in a bowl – refreshing yet intellectually layered, the sherry’s flor notes mirroring the soup’s subtle umami. Transitioning to heartier terrain, the Pollo Asado con Confited Garlic arrived as a golden, herb-crusted half-bird, its skin crackling under the fork, juices mingling with roasted carrots and a jus laced with bay leaf. Here, the Equipo Navazos Amontillado (dry, oxidative, with hazelnut and orange zest) stepped in like a mischievous storyteller, its oxidative bite amplifying the poultry’s savoriness without overwhelming. Midway, a palate-cleansing interlude of Molletes de Aceite – fluffy olive oil bread bites with anchovy butter – bridged to the main act: Costillas de Ternera Glaseadas, slow-braised short ribs that melted into oblivion, glazed with a reduction of Pedro Ximénez and wild thyme. The bold, raisiny PX Sherry (a González Byass classic) was pure decadence, its caramel depth wrapping the beef in a sweet-savory embrace that lingered like a flamenco echo. Vegetarian diversions shone too, with Pimientos del Padrón and Ensalada de Tomate providing bright, peppery interludes, their pairings a zippy Viña AB (young, fruity) that popped with citrus acidity. The crescendo built to Queso de Cabra con Membrillo, a creamy goat cheese from the Sierra de Grazalema, offset by quince paste and toasted Marcona almonds – elevated by the Oloroso Royal, a nutty, spicy sherry that evoked leather-bound libraries and forgotten cellars. The finale? A whisper of elegance in Helado de Turrón, almond nougat ice cream drizzled with honey and pistachios, before the brandy encore: a velvety sip of Fundador Supremo, its vanilla-oak warmth cutting through the dessert’s sweetness like aged wisdom. At 40% ABV, it was the perfect denouement – contemplative, not cloying. The atmosphere – dimly lit, with live guitar strums on weekends and the occasional sherry tasting in adjacent rooms – fosters romance and reverie, ideal for anniversaries or solo reflections. At one Michelin star since 2022, it earns every accolade for innovation rooted in reverence. Reflecting on this journey, it’s clear that Spanish sherry and brandy are more than beverages—they are cultural treasures that embody centuries of heritage, craftsmanship, and innovation. Whether savored in historic cellars or paired with culinary excellence, these spirits continue to inspire and enchant enthusiasts around the world, carrying forward a legacy as vibrant and enduring as Andalusia itself. If you’re in Andalusia, detour here; it’s not just a meal, but a memory etched in sherry’s amber glow.
Vale dos Vinhedos: Your Next Wine Pilgrimage at Ales Victoria & Spa do Vinho
Imagine this: basalt cliffs crumbling into iron-rich dust beneath century-old vines, golden sunlight painting the hills of Brazil’s only DO region, and a glass of Merlot so vivid it tastes like freedom on horseback. This isn’t Tuscany. This isn’t Napa. This is Vale dos Vinhedos, and at its beating heart are Ales Victoria—a boutique winery rewriting Brazil’s fine wine story—and Spa do Vinho, where vinotherapy meets pure indulgence. I went as a wine professional. I left converted. Here’s why you—wine lover, wanderluster, seeker of the next great terroir—need to go. They are developing Brazil as a wine destination. Ales Victoria: Where Brazil’s Soul Meets the Glass Deborah and Aldemir Dadalt translate their twenty-two hectares of lands, satellite-mapped with surgical precision, sit in the cradle of Brazil’s GI movement. Every vine is a declaration: This is us. This is now. Walk the rows and history breathes. 150-year-old Isabella Labrusca vines—brought by Italian settlers—still fruit under the latada pergola, a living cathedral of green arches you duck beneath. The oldest Merlot? A defiant 25-year-old, roots clawing through basalt so hard it rings like iron, then powdery layers of calcium and iron, semi-precious stones, sand, clay, humus. This isn’t soil. It’s geology in a glass. Sustainability isn’t a buzzword here—it’s survival turned visionary. Water purified by plant roots. Original Atlantic forest preserved. And the future? PIWI varieties—disease-resistant hybrids—being trialed in rested parcels. Brazil’s climate armor. The Dadalts aren’t waiting for change. They’re building it. Twenty years ago, Michel Rolland walked these slopes and designed the front vineyard’s four sacred parcels. The proof is in the bottle. The Tasting: Four Wines That Demand Your Attention Spa do Vinho: Where Wellness Becomes Wine Ritual After the vines, surrender to Spa do Vinho—Brazil’s vinotherapy cathedral, and the crown jewel of a 5-star Autograph Collection hotel perched atop a hill amid 18 hectares of their own vineyards. This isn’t just recovery; it’s a full-body immersion in the valley’s magic, blending French-inspired Caudalie protocols with local terroir twists. Potable mineral water, drawn from the estate and warmed to a soothing 36.5°C (body temperature), powers the hydrotherapy circuits that simulate gentle river streams—think cascading jets, underwater massages, and effervescent grape baths that leave your skin humming. The Vino Spa’s arsenal is a vinophile’s dream: Signature vinotherapy treatments using polyphenolic grape extracts for anti-aging facials, detox body wraps, and restorative massages that melt away jet lag (or post-tasting haze). Indulge in a classic grape-seed scrub or a red-wine bath ritual, then ease into the therapeutic heated pool for zero-gravity floats with vineyard views. Follow with a steam session in the wet sauna, a barefoot trek along the invigorating stone path for reflexology perks, or a sun-soaked lounge in the solarium—panoramic glass walls framing endless rows of Merlot and Tannat. It’s wellness with a 700-label cellar soundtrack. And the Codallie? That ethereal perfume distilled from Chardonnay blossoms—harvested in one fleeting, fragrant week—now feels like the spa’s secret handshake. Spritz it post-treatment, and you’re wearing the vineyard. The hotel itself elevates the stay into a seamless wine-country escape. Check in with a welcome glass of sparkling méthode traditionnelle, then settle into one of 128 air-conditioned rooms—many with private balconies overlooking the vines, stone fireplaces for chilly evenings, pillowtop beds draped in crisp linens, and minibars stocked with local sparklers. Marble bathrooms stock Vino.Spa exclusives: think lavender-infused robes, hair dryers, and rainfall showers big enough for two. Dining? A terroir feast across five venues: Leopoldina Restaurant for elegant Brazilian tasting menus paired with rare vintages; Bistrô Culinária de Terroir’s à la carte farm-fresh plates; sunset parrillas at Esplanada Gaúcha with valley panoramas; casual bites at the Gastrobar; or intimate enoteca sessions at Vino.Libris. Free breakfast is a spread of regional cheeses, house-made jams, fresh pastries, and—yes—complimentary espumante to toast the morning. Sip at the rooftop bar as dusk falls, or unwind poolside with craft cocktails. Active souls, rejoice: A 24-hour fitness center keeps you sharp, while outdoor pursuits include tennis courts for a friendly rally, an outdoor infinity pool blending into the horizon, a bubbling spa tub, and even hot-air balloon rides over the DO for aerial terroir scouting. Families or groups? Kid-friendly pools and event spaces (up to 5,400 sq ft for weddings or wine seminars) seal the deal. Free WiFi blankets the property, complimentary valet parking eases arrivals, and a concierge can orchestrate winery tours or cooking classes. It’s 15 minutes from Bento Gonçalves’ center, yet worlds away—a bucolic bubble where service feels familial, not fussy. The cellar? Brazil’s largest: 700 labels, 40,000 bottles, every wine available by the glass via Coravin. Winemakers from Rio Grande to São Paulo gather here. This isn’t a tasting room. It’s a think tank with stemware. Vale dos Vinhedos isn’t “up and coming.” It’s arriving. Ales Victoria proves Brazil can craft age-worthy, site-specific reds and whites that rival the world’s best. Spa do Vinho turns recovery into ritual—and the hotel wraps it in Tuscan elegance amid endless vines. Book the flight. Pack light. Bring hunger—for flavor, for story, for the next great wine frontier. Because the dark horse is running. And it’s headed straight for your glass. Who’s coming with me?
Unveiling Secrets at Tío Pepe with Silvia Flores
My recent trip to the Sherry heartland was nothing short of enchanting, a whirlwind of family legacies, velvety tastings, and unexpected adventures. At the epicenter? The iconic Tío Pepe bodega at González Byass, where I had the profound privilege of touring with Silvia Flores Cintado, the spirited third-generation steward who’s breathing fresh life into this storied house. We arrived under a golden autumn sky, checking into the Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe, a boutique gem tucked into the bodega’s historic core. Housed in 19th-century cottages once used by winery workers, the hotel feels like a love letter to sherry’s past – exposed stone walls, wrought-iron accents, and rooms that whisper of old-world romance. Our suite overlooked the sprawling courtyard, where chalk-dusted barrels slumbered like ancient guardians. Mornings began with a lavish breakfast in the garden- a spread of Iberian hams, fresh churros, and, of course, pours of crisp fino to cut through the sweetness. The rooftop pool offered lazy afternoons gazing at the cathedral’s spires, but honestly, who needs a dip when the real immersion is just steps away? It’s the kind of stay that doesn’t just host you; it seduces you into the rhythm of Jerez life. The highlight, without question, was our private tour with Silvia. And Sylvain. Eight years into her role at González Byass (she joined in 2017), this dynamic winemaker and innovator is the epitome of women taking the reins in a traditionally male-dominated world. As the daughter of Antonio Flores, the bodega’s legendary winemaker and master blender – a man whose blends have defined Tío Pepe for decades – Silvia is carrying forward a torch lit by her grandfather, Miguel Flores, who served as technical director for over 50 years. “I’m the third generation,” she shared with a warm laugh, her passion as effervescent as the flor yeast she reveres. “My grandfather, my father, and now it’s my turn to learn all the secrets.” We descended into the bodega’s oldest wing, a 19th-century labyrinth of cool, dimly lit vaults that house part of the solera system – a staggering 20,000 casks strong. The air was thick with humidity (around 70% down here, she noted, versus a drier 33% higher up), the perfect cradle for biological aging. The floor? A mosaic of crushed glass, swept daily to fend off unwanted moisture while coaxing the magic from above. Silvia led us to the “Solera Baja,” the lowest tier where the youngest wines rest, explaining the art of blending across levels. “It’s a blending system,” she said, her eyes lighting up. “We move the wine from role to role, checking every cask monthly to ensure the flor – that living veil of yeast – thrives.” And thrive it does. Peering into an American oak butt, we watched as micro-particles of flor rose to the surface, fueled by the wine’s oxygen space. This “la flor,” as she called it, is the alchemist’s key: it transforms the Palomino Fino grape into the saline, nutty elixir of fino sherry. No added sugars, just pure, probiotic brilliance – “less than one gram per liter,” Silvia assured. With a flourish, she unfurled the venencia – that elegant, long-handled instrument with a slender silver cup, a tool as much art as utility. In one fluid motion, she plunged it deep into the cask, drawing up Tío Pepe’s flagship Fino and pouring it in a golden arc from over her shoulder into our copitas. The sherry sang as it fell, aerating into a pale, crystalline stream. On the palate: razor-sharp green apple, toasted almonds, and a briny Atlantic kiss. Then came the Amontillado, extracted with the same balletic precision – deeper amber, with layers of toasted hazelnut, dried apricot, and a whisper of sea salt caramel. Silvia is the undisputed master of the venencia; her pours are poetry, each drop a testament to generations of skill. Our wanderings took us along Calle Ciegos, the UNESCO-protected street that threads through the bodega’s heart like a living museum. Flanked by whitewashed walls and towering palms, this narrow artery is part of Jerez’s historic sherry district, recognized by UNESCO in 2014 for its cultural landscape of bodegas, vineyards, and traditions. The vines themselves – sprawling across the albariza soils of the Marco de Jerez – are a protected denomination, ensuring that only grapes from this sacred triangle (Jerez, Sanlúcar, El Puerto) can bear the sherry name. Standing there, beneath the bodega’s iconic Tío Pepe weather vane, you feel the weight of centuries: a place where time is measured not in years, but in soleras. Then came the moment that stopped time: Silvia reached for a venencia once more, dipping it into a dusty, museum-like cask marked with faded chalk. Out came Dulce Esteve 1986, a rare, naturally sweet Palomino Fino from an exceptional vintage – one of the bodega’s hidden treasures, untouched by fortification. She poured it straight from the barrel into our copitas, the liquid glowing like liquid topaz. On the nose: toasted fig, candied orange peel, and a whisper of old leather-bound books. The palate unfolded in waves – velvety caramelized dates, rancio nuttiness, and a bright, saline finish that lingered like a sunset over the Guadalquivir. Nearly 40 years old, yet vibrant, complex, and utterly alive. “This is what patience tastes like,” she said softly. We stood in reverent silence, glasses trembling slightly in our hands. But Tío Pepe isn’t just about sherry anymore. Silvia, ever the innovator, walked us through their expanding spirits lineup, where women are very much at the helm. Their Mom Premium Gin, distilled with sherry wines and Andalusian botanicals like oroblanco and fennel, embodies this forward-thinking vibe – crisp, juniper-forward, yet hauntingly floral. “It’s about blending heritage with what’s next,” she said, mixing us G&Ts that paired seamlessly with the bodega’s tapas. Under her guidance, González Byass is reimagining Tío Pepe not as a relic, but as a vibrant force in modern mixology. Hunger struck as the sun climbed, leading us to Restaurante Pedro Nolasco, the bodega’s elegant on-site
Vintage Harmony Champagne Egly-Ouriet
In the pantheon of grower Champagnes, few names command the reverence of Egly-Ouriet. Hailing from the hallowed Pinot Noir stronghold of Ambonnay, this iconic estate has long been synonymous with opulent, vinous expressions that rival the finest still wines of Burgundy. Yet, in a bold departure from their signature style, Egly-Ouriet introduces Les Vignes de Bisseuil Premier Cru Extra Brut—a non-vintage masterpiece that flips the script with 70% Chardonnay at its helm. For wine enthusiasts seeking purity, precision, and a profound sense of place, this cuvée is nothing short of a revelation. Nestled adjacent to the Grand Cru village of Ay, the Premier Cru hamlet of Bisseuil offers south-facing slopes bathed in sunlight and underpinned by chalky soils that impart an unmistakable mineral backbone. Egly-Ouriet draws from a modest 1.5-hectare parcel here, farmed organically with vines exceeding 40 years of age. Hand-harvested and handled with minimal intervention, the fruit reflects the estate’s unwavering commitment to terroir. Unfiltered and fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels (just 10% new), this Champagne eschews shortcuts—no malolactic fermentation, allowing the grapes’ natural acidity to shine. What sets Les Vignes de Bisseuil apart is its rare blend for the house: 70% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier. This Chardonnay dominance crafts a brighter, more elegant counterpoint to Egly-Ouriet’s richer, Pinot-driven icons, delivering a wine that’s both intellectually stimulating and effortlessly drinkable. Picture this: about 60% of the magic comes from the legendary 2017 vintage—a real rollercoaster year of frost bites and scorching heat that slashed yields but cranked up those intense, concentrated flavors. Then, we blend in 40% reserve wine from the stellar 2016 for that extra dose of maturity and seamless harmony. Boom! You get a non-vintage stunner that sips like a secret vintage champ—vibrant and fresh, yet beautifully evolved. Egly-Ouriet doesn’t just blend—they elevate with barrels that turn this cuvée into a textural dream and a love letter to the land. Every single lot ferments in oak barrels (mostly seasoned Burgundian pièces, with a cheeky 10% new oak for hints of vanilla and spice). And the kicker? 100% indigenous yeasts straight from their own vines! Aged 48 months on lees gains depth, creaminess, and a finely textured mousse. Disgorged July 2022 with 3 years of further bottle ageing. With a bone-dry 2 g/L dosage (extra brut) and 12.5% ABV, it emphasizes purity over sweetness, clocking in at a limited production. Pour this Champagne and watch it gleam in bright silver-straw with a fine, lively mousse that dances in the glass. The nose unfurls a savory tapestry: ripe pear and melon rind mingle with fresh earth, briny salinity, crisp orchard fruit, lemon oil, mint, acacia, and toasted almonds. Underpinning it all is a chalky minerality reminiscent of wet stones and sage—pure Bisseuil terroir in aromatic form. On the palate, it’s airy yet sculpted, medium- to full-bodied with a vinous, chiseled frame. An enveloping core of tangy lemon, white pepper, tangerine oil, baked apple tart, and subtle Mirabelle plum unfolds with bright acids that provide electric energy and cut. Deceptively light at first sip, it reveals impressive dimension, myriad shades of nuance, and tons of finesse. The finish is long, intensely saline, and mineral-driven, laced with zesty purity and crunchy apple notes. Nervy, super-expressive, and admirably focused, it’s a masterclass in concentration without weight. This Champagne’s chalky acidity and subtle fruit make it a chameleon at the table. Pair with oysters for a briny harmony; goat cheese to play off its creaminess; roast chicken with all the trimmings where its cut-through richness elevates finesse-driven dishes. It’s a wine that enhances without overwhelming. In an era of mass-produced fizz, Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Bisseuil stands as a beacon of terroir-driven artistry. Chardonnay-led yet unmistakably Egly—vinous, mineral, and alive—this NV grower Champagne challenges conventions and rewards the discerning palate. Secure a bottle while it lasts; with its limited availability and aging potential, it’s destined to become a cult favorite among those who cherish Champagne’s soulful side. Santé to the next great discovery!
Breaking Barrels and Barriers with Gonzalez Byass-LePanto & Nomad Outlaw
Imagine stepping into a sun-drenched cellar in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain, where the air is thick with the intoxicating aroma of aged oak and caramelized spirits. A legendary, family-owned empire, Gonzalez Byass, who’s been crafting world-class sherries, brandies, and more since 1835. On a recent visit, I found myself immersed in the heart of their operations, uncovering the secrets behind LePanto, a brandy that’s as rare as it is remarkable as well as Nomad Outlaw whiskey and Gonzalez Byass sherry. What unfolded was a captivating blend of history, craftsmanship, and sheer passion, led by the brilliant young master distiller, Rocio Trillo—the youngest female distiller in Jerez. What happens when you step into a world where spirits aren’t just drinks, but stories aged in oak and whispered through generations. This wasn’t a mere tasting; it was a brand immersion, tracing the alchemy of alcohol from its raw beginnings to its refined masterpieces. If you’re a spirits enthusiast, this is the kind of experience that lingers on the palate long after the last sip. Our adventure began with a dive into the company’s storied past with Sylvain Vielle-Grosjean, International Visits Coordinator, as our guide. As we drove through the grounds on the Gonzalez Byass trolley, he told us tales of the ambitious 23-year-old Manuel Maria Gonzalez, founder of Gonzalez Byass, who swapped a dull banking job in Paris for the vibrant world of wine, Gonzalez Byass rose from humble beginnings. With no money and zero industry know-how, Gonzalez bootstrapped his way to success, starting with just ten casks of sherry. By 1855, a pivotal partnership with London-based Robert Blake catapulted the brand into the UK market, where it thrived for over a century. Fast-forward to 1988: The British side of the family fades out, and Gonzalez Byass becomes 100% Spanish-owned, now widespread portfolio across wines and spirits. Family members still helm key roles— president, sustainability director, and beyond. As Sylvain quipped with a grin, “At the end, his family is very happy.” It’s this enduring family spirit that infuses every bottle, making Gonzalez Byass feel less like a corporation and more like a living legacy. Our day kicked off with her spirited energy of Rocio Trillo, the vibrant force behind LePanto Brandy and Nomad Whiskey. A trailblazer who’s redefining the distilling scene in Jerez. As the youngest woman to helm a distillery here, Rocio brings a fresh, innovative spirit to an industry steeped in tradition. At just a glance, she’s a revelation: young, female, and utterly commanding. “My dad was the master distiller here for almost 40 years,” she shared, her eyes sparkling. “I learned from him, but I’ve traveled—California, Australia—gathering experiences.” Taking over just a few years ago, Rocio isn’t just preserving history; she’s innovating it. Her passion for brandy isn’t just professional—it’s personal, rooted in the sun-drenched vineyards of Andalusia. Over steaming copitas and lively conversation, she walked us through the soul of her craft, emphasizing sustainability and bold experimentation. “Brandy is poetry in a bottle,” she quipped, and by the end of our tour, we couldn’t agree more. Her ongoing PhD research explores how soil and parcels influence brandy quality, dreaming of single-parcel expressions akin to terroir-driven Cognacs. “I want to know if there’s a parcel that’s better for brandy,” she explained, her enthusiasm infectious. LePanto’s magic starts in the vineyards. Spanning about 300 hectares, these Palomino plots are the same ones used for Gonzalez Byass’s famed sherries. But for brandy, timing is everything: Grapes are harvested early, in July or August, to amp up acidity and skip sulfur additions that could harm the copper stills. Sourced from iconic regions like Carrascal, Macharnudo, and Cala, the fruit yields a fragrant base wine at around 12% ABV. Winemaking is minimalist—gravity pressing (known locally as “Gemma”) extracts the purest first-press juice, preserving those vital aromatics. No heavy interventions here; it’s all about letting the grape shine. Then comes the distillation, revived in 2005 after a 30-year hiatus. In massive 2,500-liter copper pot stills, the wine undergoes double distillation. The first yields a 33% ABV spirit; the second separates it into heads (1%, volatile and unbalanced), heart (90%, the prized “Orlando” for aging), and tails (9%, fatty and heavy). Rocio demonstrated this with samples straight from the process: The heads burned with intensity at 80% ABV, while the Orlando at 65-70% was a revelation—clean, fruity, alive. “You need experience and a good nose,” she said, emphasizing the human touch in cutting fractions. It’s this precision that keeps LePanto fresh and elegant. Under Rocio’s watch, LePanto stands out as the region—the only brandy made entirely in Jerez from 100% Palomino grapes, distilled in traditional pot stills. In a world of column-distilled, outsourced spirits, this is pure artistry. From there, we transitioned into the hallowed halls dedicated to LePanto Brandy, a crown jewel of Jerez’s solera system. This isn’t your everyday digestif; LePanto is a symphony of patience, where brandies from different vintages mingle in a fractional blending process that ensures consistency and depth. We started at the source—tasting the pure, fiery alcohol straight from the still, a stark, unyielding spirit that demanded respect. Aging seals the deal, using the iconic solera system—stacked casks where younger spirits mingle with older ones for consistency. American oak sherry butts (600 liters, medium-toast) impart softness, unlike Cognac’s smaller French oak barrels. LePanto spends its first nine years in Fino sherry casks for vibrancy, then three in rare, 30-year-old Matusalem (a sweet Oloroso-PX blend) for depth. Categories range from Solera (1+ year) to Reserva (3-10 years) and Gran Reserva (10+, often 12-15, including opulent XO expressions). Dilution is gradual—from 60% to 40%, then 36% ABV for the U.S. market—to safeguard those delicate aromas. Humidity control? Purely natural—water added at night to maintain 65-70%, balancing evaporation. With around 2,000 barrels in cellars named after family members (like “San Manuel” for the founder), it’s a symphony of tradition. The real thrill? Tasting straight from the cask. What elevated this visit from memorable to transformative was the progressive tasting.
Discovering Andalusia’s Spirit Heritage: A Journey Through Harveys Sherry and Fundador Brandy
My recent adventure in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain, was an immersive experience that truly highlighted the artistry and tradition behind some of the world’s most renowned spirits. Invited by González Byass, a name synonymous with Spanish vinicultural excellence and now part of the Alliance Global Group (a Philippine-owned company led by the Town family), I had the privilege of exploring their fully integrated operations — from grape to glass. We began our journey at the Torre Emperador Castellana, the tallest building in Madrid with a masterclass on the Harvey’s and Fundador portfolio, led by the enthusiastic and knowledgeable Livinia Stuyck (Head of Consumer Marketing Emperador Group) and Alberto Pizarro (Trade Ambassador, Emperador Group). Livinia shared insights into the rich history of Grupo Emperador, emphasizing the subtle yet vital differences between sherry and brandy — both in production and flavor profile. While they often share aging casks, sherry is a fortified wine, and brandy is distilled, each with its unique character shaped by factors like grape variety, aging, and oxidation. Note: the difference between Sherry and Brandy: -Sherry vs. Brandy: While both are often aged in the same casks, it’s important to remember that sherry is a fortified wine, while brandy is a distilled spirit -Flavor Profiles: Understanding how factors like cask age, grape variety, and oxidation method influence the final flavor profile is key to appreciating the nuances of each expression. The tasting highlighted both Harvey’s Sherry and Fundador Brandy. Harvey’s Bristol Cream evoked cozy evenings with rich dried fruits, caramel, and roasted nuts, beautifully balanced by Parmesan’s saltiness and nuttiness. Fun Fact: When chilled, the Harvey’s logo on the bottle turns blue—indicating the perfect serving temperature! Harvey’s Medium Dry Sherry delivered bright notes of apricot and citrus, paired with nutty cheeses as an ideal aperitif. Fundador Supremo 12 revealed vanilla, toasted oak, and dried plum, complementing creamy cheese. The Supremo 15 offered rich aromas of fig and spice, with a velvety palate of dried fruit and dark chocolate, best enjoyed with Parmesan. Finally, the Supremo 18, aged to perfection, presented a complex bouquet of fig, walnut, and leather, elevated by aged cheese. Following this insightful session, we savored an exquisite lunch at the Michelin-starred Élkar on the 33rd floor, boasting panoramic 360° views (as detailed in my previous post). The meal featured refined dishes—Parmesan mousse, Ibérico presá, and Tarta Ópera—paired with exceptional spirits and spirit based cocktails. Did you know that any whiskey- or bourbon-based cocktail can be swapped out for Fundador Sherry Cask Brandy or Harveys Sherry? This discovery really highlighted the incredible versatility of both sherry and brandy! Joined by Angel Piña Serrano (Global Chief Commercial & Marketing Office) and Oscar Vargas ( VP Marketing Pedro Domecq) we discovered the limited-edition Fundador 150 Aniversario, celebrating 150 years of craftsmanship. This extraordinary spirit is best savored neat, with dark chocolate as a divine pairing. As Angel wisely commented, “Once you open the bottle of 150, it has to be finished!” Next Stop: The Heart of Jerez de la Frontera My adventure unfolded in the sunny southern lands of Spain, an area steeped in centuries of history influenced by Moorish legacies, bustling trade routes, and a passion for quality. Wandering through lush vineyards and historic cellars, I felt fully immersed in a culture that honors its heritage while embracing innovation. Guided by the passionate Beatriz Fierro Clavero, Head of Consumer Marketing for the Emperador Group, whose deep knowledge brought every detail to life, our day started at El Majuelo Vineyard. Renowned for its exceptional albariza soil—white, chalky, porous, and limestone-rich—this terrain retains moisture expertly, creating ideal conditions for premium palomino grapes that yield some of Spain’s finest sherry wines. Next, we explored the historic cellars of Bodega de La Mezquita, built in 1974 with impressive mosque-style arches designed to maintain perfect humidity—a crucial element for aging. The construction ingeniously incorporates natural elements: window designs and ocean orientation for climate control. Spanning six buildings equivalent to four football fields in size, this complex—designed by Lopi Nodia over three years—blends Moorish architecture with nature, evoking a cathedral-like ambiance. Surrounded by over 40,000 sherry casks, some dating back to 1730, the scale was awe-inspiring. These casks aren’t mere storage; they’re living artifacts, seasoned like whiskey or bourbon barrels, imparting rich, layered flavors through the solera system—a tiered blending process ensuring consistent quality. Nearby, El Molino, the oldest bodega established in 1730, holds a distinguished place in Spanish winemaking history. It preserves traditional methods while integrating modern advancements, producing wines that reflect the region’s unique terroir with unwavering dedication to excellence. Passing through the Neoclassical Porta Rota gate at the bodega, I entered lush gardens that regulate humidity for the bodega, enhanced by the gentle flow of the River Guadalquivir. These gardens not only captivate visually but also create a vital microclimate, featuring artisan touches like handmade fishing nets crafted by local experts—emblems of regional tradition. The on-site museum revealed the estate’s storied past through artifacts, vintage tools, and photographs. The tasting included a range of spirits, each with its unique personality: We concluded with a delightful lunch at Casa Fundador Restaurante, featuring an incredible four-course meal paired with spirits and the newly launched Mica Fundador Sherry Cask beer. This Toro Amber Ale, aged in Oloroso sherry casks, boasts a rich amber hue with notes of dried fruit, toasted almond, and oak—Spain’s most awarded craft beer! From a Harvey’s Spritz with duck foie gras, pink pepper, and tomato jam to a Fundador Brandy Colada with brandy-infused tiramisu, every element was curated flawlessly. Beatriz insisted on tasting the exceptional Fundador Supremo 30, aged for three decades: deep, refined, and balanced, rich with dried fruit, toasted oak, and subtle spice—the epitome of aged brandy. This journey through Andalusia exemplified the rich heritage, masterful craftsmanship, and cultural significance of Spanish sherry and brandy. From historic vineyards and ancient cellars to curated tastings and exquisite pairings, these spirits transcend beverages—they are living testaments to tradition, innovation, and passion. Reflecting on this immersive experience, I appreciate
24 Hours In Madrid: Foodie’s Whirlwind Feast
We’re embarking on the González Byass Press Trip, curated by The Tourism Lab—24 immersive hours in Madrid, priming our palates before diving into the sherry and brandy heritage of González Byass, Harvey’s, and Fundador. Touch down with just one day to savor the city’s vibrant soul through exceptional cuisine. This isn’t a typical tour—it’s our exhilarating gastronomic journey across seven standout destinations: the timeless Chocolatería San Ginés for churros, a lively stop at Plaza Mayor beneath the iconic Tío Pepe sign, tapas delights at Mercado de San Miguel, an elevated lunch at Élkar on the 33rd floor, classic cocktails at Viva Madrid, and a refreshing close at Kala Greek Frozen Yogurt, with optional evening views from on high. Perfectly positioned in the historic center and business district (near Puerta del Sol, Gran Vía, and Paseo de la Castellana), these spots connect seamlessly via walks, metros, or quick taxis for an energizing, flavor-filled 24 hours. Get ready, food enthusiasts—Madrid’s culinary heights are calling us! Morning Kickoff: Sweet Start at Chocolatería San Ginés (9 AM – 11 AM) Kick off your adventure (or wrap up a late night—it’s open almost round-the-clock!) at this beloved 1894 gem hidden in Pasadizo de San Ginés, steps from Puerta del Sol. Indulge in crisp churros (or hearty porras) dunked in rich, pudding-like hot chocolate—a true Madrid essential. With marble tables and tiled charm, it’s a favorite for locals and visitors alike. Pro tip: The classic combo costs under €5 and provides the perfect fuel. Stroll 5 minutes west to Plaza Mayor next. Late Morning Highlight: Plaza Mayor Magic (11 AM – 11:30 AM) Pause in Madrid’s historic core at Plaza Mayor, a 17th-century masterpiece of arcades, frescoes, and energy. Capture the glowing Tío Pepe neon sign (a sherry icon since 1935) alongside the King Philip III statue. Enjoy street performers and a quick café con leche from a terrace—it’s free, fabulous for photos, and appetite-building. Head north 15 minutes on foot (or by metro/taxi) for more. Mid-Morning Grazing: Mercado de San Miguel (11:45 AM – 12:45 PM) Step into the elegant iron-and-glass haven of Mercado de San Miguel, a 1916 landmark turned premier food hall. Explore 30+ stalls brimming with Spanish gems: paper-thin jamón ibérico, calamari, olives of every kind, fresh oysters, regional cheeses, paella nibbles, and vermouth pours. Keep it light with calamares bocata or croquetas (€15-25). Vibrant yet top-quality—stand and savor. Then, taxi 10 minutes north along Gran Vía to soar upward. Sky-High Lunch: Élkar Excellence (1 PM – 3:30 PM) Ascend to the 33rd floor of Torre Emperador Castellana (over 160m up—Spain’s highest restaurant!) for Élkar’s “Gastronomía de Altura.” Panoramic windows reveal stunning 360° vistas of the Sierra, Bernabéu, and cityscape. Chef Fran Vicente’s Mediterranean menu dazzles: Parmesan mousse with pesto, premium bellota ham, pistachio ajo blanco with tuna and Jerez pearls, sea bass with beurre blanc and caviar, Ibérico presa with demi-glace and kumquat, or the exquisite Tarta Ópera. Enhance with Fundador infusions or cellar wines. Choose the executive menu or à la carte; book ahead. Sophisticated and inspiring—taxi 15 minutes south afterward. Early Afternoon Aperitivo: Viva Madrid (4 PM – 7 PM) Dive into Barrio de las Letras at Viva Madrid, a 1856 tavern reborn with flair by mixologist Diego Cabrera. Vintage tiles meet ‘20s tango ambiance as jazz hums in the background. Sip gin classics or try the standout Honey Moon cocktail—Pisco 1615 blended with spiced liquor, elderflower, lemon juice, and a whisper of smoked orange tree honey that adds a delightful, aromatic sweetness. Pair with upscale tapas such as truffle croquetas or vermouth olives. It’s the ideal relaxed aperitivo spot to unwind. Evening Finale: Kala Greek Frozen Yogurt (7 PM Onward) End on a fresh note at Kala on Calle de las Huertas: authentic Greek yogurt in creamy pistachio or fruit bases, topped with compote, berries, or crunch. Probiotic and portion-packed—perfect for strolling or bench-sitting. For night owls: Revisit San Ginés or taxi to Élkar’s bar for starry views and cocktails. In just 24 hours, experience Madrid’s core: timeless treats, plaza charm, market buzz, elevated feasts with Fundador elegance, spirited tapas, and cool refreshment. Arrive eager, depart delighted—¡Buen provecho! These gems glow anytime in this vibrant city, day or night.
Inside the Susana Balbo’s Unique Stays
Imagine this: sun-drenched vineyards unfurling like a Malbec tapestry at the foot of the Andes, the air humming with the scent of ripening Torrontés, and a concrete “egg” tub cradling you like a vintage in repose—its curves echoing the very vats where Argentina’s wine revolution was born. This isn’t just another Andean escape. It’s Susana Balbo Unique Stays, the trailblazing haven where Argentina’s first female winemaker, Susana Balbo, and her daughter Ana Lovaglio Balbo have transformed their family home into a 7-suite sanctuary of wine, wellness, and whispered legacy. Susana Balbo didn’t just break barriers; she bottled them. Graduating as Argentina’s inaugural female oenologist in 1981, she defied the red-wine redoubt of Mendoza by championing elegant whites like Torrontés—earning her the crown “Queen of Torrontés.” After nine years elevating Cafayate’s high-altitude valleys, she returned in 1991 to found her eponymous winery in Agrelo, crafting high-scoring vintages exported to 42 countries. But why branch into hospitality? It’s pure evolution: a mother-daughter bid to share their “buen vivir”—that artful blend of wine culture, family stories, and soul-stirring wellness. What started as Ana’s vision to expand enotourism at the winery bloomed into transforming their Chacras de Coria family villa into this adults-only boutique (now a Relais & Châteaux darling since 2024). It’s not about scaling; it’s about intimacy—inviting guests into their world, where every vine-tended detail whispers, This is Mendoza through our eyes. Nestled in leafy Chacras de Coria (20 minutes from downtown Mendoza, 40 from the airport), the estate unfolds like a private dream: a centenary mansion ringed by seven standalone Spa Suites, each a low-slung chalet blending into lush gardens. No towering Andes vista here—instead, it’s an urban-oasis vibe, with linden-lined lanes leading to a saltwater infinity pool that shimmers like liquid quartz. Sustainability pulses through: native flora only, upcycled olive-wood front desk, biodegradable soaps in refillable vessels, and water-saving tech that honors the arid Andean ethos. The Art That Whispers Legacy: A Gallery in Disguise Step through the gates, and art doesn’t just decorate—it narrates. Over 15 local and international creators (Sergio Roggerone, Julio Le Parc, Sebastião Salgado, Martín Villalonga) have woven Susana’s saga into every corner, turning the house into a living gallery. But the showstopper? The monumental “Tree of Life” installation by Sergio Roggerone in the entryway—a towering, kinetic sculpture of twisted iron, glowing resins, and vine-like tendrils that spirals upward like a Malbec barrel stave reaching for the sun. It’s no mere motif; it embodies Susana’s philosophy of growth, resilience, and interconnectedness—mirroring her journey from oenology pioneer to hospitality visionary. Branches fan out like family lineages, etched with subtle nods to Torrontés grapes and Andean peaks, casting dappled shadows that dance with the light. It’s the emotional anchor: As Ana says, “Our story is what makes us unique.” Gaze up, and you’re not just checking in—you’re grafted into the Balbo legacy. Ana herself guided us through the hotel’s three vertical pillars—Wellness, Wine, and Art—revealing how the Tree of Life is more than sculpture; it’s the blueprint. Each of the seven suites corresponds to one of the painting’s seven symbolic elements: earth, water, fire, air, root, trunk, and crown. From the grounding clay tones of Templo (earth) to the ethereal skylights of Corona (crown), every space is a chapter in the same living story. Suite 7—Raíz (Root)—my sanctuary—was the crown jewel of the lineup, the largest and most secluded, tucked at the garden’s far edge like a secret barrel room. It embodies the “root” element: deep, anchoring, foundational. Inside, the space breathes: soaring ceilings with exposed beams, a living area anchored by a suspended fireplace that crackles like a Malbec reduction, and floor-to-ceiling glass sliding doors that erase the line between indoors and out. The egg tub sits on a raised cedar platform, overlooking the private heated plunge pool—a sleek rectangle of turquoise framed by native chañar and carob trees, perfect for midnight dips under star-drenched skies. The dry sauna is a cedar cocoon with a porthole to the garden; step out onto heated stone for a cold-plunge contrast that jolts the senses awake. The bed? A cloud of Egyptian cotton facing a private vineyard sliver—wake to the soft rustle of leaves. A hidden outdoor shower under a pergola of climbing jasmine, a yoga deck with cushioned mats, and a wine fridge stocked with Susana’s Signature wines sealed the deal. It’s not a room. It’s a retreat within a retreat. The Night Begins: A Signature Cocktail to Set the Tone Our evening ignited with Ana’s welcome ritual: a signature cocktail served fireside surrounded by other Mendozian works of art in the cocktail bar. Picture this—grappa infused with clarified butter, toasted hazelnuts, and poached pears, shaken over ice and strained into a chilled coupe. The nose? Warm pastry and orchard fruit. The sip? Silky, nutty, with a whisper of pear sweetness and a clean, spirit-driven finish. It wasn’t just a drink—it was a preview of Mendoza’s soul: bold, layered, unexpectedly refined. One sip, and the Andes felt closer. La Vida by Flavia Amad: A Chef’s Ode to Mendoza’s Soul Dining here is a revelation, helmed by Mendoza-born wunderkind executive chef, Flavia Amad Di Leo—a Michelin-apprenticed force (stages with Anthony Bourdain and Daniel Boulud, New York stardom under her belt). At La Vida, the in-house restaurant, Flavia reinvents regional lore with local, organic bounty: bold, flame-kissed plates that marry molecular wizardry to Andean heart. Chef Flavia’s magical 7-course Tree of Life tasting menu paired with Susana’s curated wines. Throughout the meal, we pieced together puzzle cards revealing ingredients tied to each element of the tree – Roots with redish, cashew, corn, beet, and ponzu; Stem featuring buckwheat and beet; Fruits layering puff pastry with butter-capers, lemon mirin olive, bitter cocoa raspberry, and a cheese & artisanal sweets cart were some of the courses. Flavia’s flavors telling Mendoza’s story, one element at a time. By the finale, we assembled a double-sided image: one side, the full menu in elegant calligraphy; the other, a photographic replica of the Tree of Life,