Carolin Spanier-Gillot: Staying True to Roots in a Changing Wine World
The day had already been long and deliciously intense. Our visit at the previous estate had—true to the unpredictable rhythm of wine trips—run far later than planned, with glasses multiplying and conversations stretching into the afternoon. By the time we arrived at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim, the light was fading over the Roter Hang. There was simply no time left for a proper tasting of Carolin Spanier-Gillot’s acclaimed biodynamic Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. Instead, we sat down for an unhurried chat in the warm glow of the estate over coffee and her special Christmas cake, and what was meant to be a quick visit turned into a memorable conversation with the most super positive, charming optimist in the world of wine (myself being a close second). Carolin Spanier-Gillot helms two esteemed VDP estates: Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim and, alongside her husband H.O. Spanier, Battenfeld-Spanier. With a philosophy rooted in “Origin Excellence,” she crafts wines that speak unmistakably of their terroir. In our candid interview, Carolin shared pragmatic insights on market shifts, personal sacrifices, and why chasing trends is a fool’s game. Their focus on authenticity defines her estates’ niche. In a competitive landscape, Carolin warns against trend-hopping—like orange wines or non-alcoholic options, which she bluntly calls “juice.” “If it’s not fermented with alcohol, it’s not wine,” she asserts. “Invest energy in other fermented products like kombucha instead.” Her estates stick to a strict profile of core varieties, centered on Riesling, with no experimental clones. “Fifteen years ago, you could sell discount supermarket wine for €60; now, only brands with a clear profile survive.” By blending tradition with modernity, they thrive on storytelling and sustainability—hosting educational events in their wine cellar to teach food pairings, or positioning accessible premiums like their €28 “Age Riesling” as gateways to memorable experiences. Carolin’s path to winemaking was anything but planned. Growing up on the family’s modest 6-hectare estate, she dreamed of becoming a pilot or doctor. But at 16, when her mother fell ill, family duty called. She stepped in, starting with simple tasks like labeling bottles. Today, she juggles roles as manager, CFO, and “trouble fixer,” clocking 65-hour weeks while prioritizing her team’s well-being. “I put my own needs last,” she admits, a testament to her dedication. Carolin’s rise has been groundbreaking in Germany’s traditionally male-dominated wine industry. In 2015, she made history as the first woman to be named **Winemaker of the Year** by the prestigious Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland—a major accolade that recognized her exceptional talent and the outstanding quality of her wines. This honor underscored her success in elevating the estates to new heights, proving that determination and vision could shatter glass ceilings in winemaking. Her admiration for strong, trailblazing women shines through in her inspirations. When asked who she would most like to share a bottle of wine with—dead or alive—Carolin didn’t hesitate: Tina Turner. “A great woman and a real epicurean,” she says with enthusiasm. Carolin also holds Gaia Gaja in high esteem for similar reasons of determination and balance, making her choices reflect a pattern of admiring iconic women who conquer challenges with grace. One persistent myth in the wine industry is that “younger generations are not drinking wine.” Carolin dismisses this outright. “It’s inaccurate,” she says firmly. She points to packed wine events buzzing with young attendees, drawn not by gimmicks but by authenticity—particularly organic and biodynamic practices that align with their values of sustainability. Looking ahead to 2030, succession is a priority. Her children—a 16-year-old son keen on winemaking (who’ll gain external experience first) and 21-year-old son potentially handling marketing—are poised to take over. Market-wise, she’s eyeing expansion: exploring Greek varieties like Assyrtiko from Santorini and pushing U.S. distribution beyond coasts into cities like Chicago, fueled by growing demand (a recent 7,000-bottle order). Yet diversification remains key—”We don’t live off the U.S. market.” Carolin also shapes Germany’s evolving wine laws through the VDP, pushing for classified vineyards and transparency. Her critique of dogmatic “natural wine” advocates—who brand critics as “enemies”—underscores her no-nonsense stance: preserve wine’s true identity. In an industry rife with fads, Carolin Spanier-Gillot’s message is clear and inspiring: “The best way to reach new generations is to be true to your story.” By championing quality, sustainability, and family legacy, she’s proving that small estates can not only survive but shine—pouring authenticity into every glass. And one day soon, I’ll be back to finally raise one of those glasses myself.
Bubbles Magic: My Enchanting Visit to Weingut Barth in the Rheingau
Nestled in the heart of the Rheingau, in the charming village of Hattenheim near Oestrich-Winkel, lies Weingut Barth – a family-run estate that beautifully bridges tradition and innovation in German winemaking. My recent visit, guided by the passionate Marketing Manager Janna, offered an intimate glimpse into this VDP member winery, renowned for its exceptional sparkling wines (Sekt) crafted using the traditional method. Weingut Barth’s story is one of postwar resilience and sparkling ambition. Founded in the 1940s by Hans Barth, the estate truly ignited its fizz under Norbert – Christine Barth’s father – who pioneered traditional-method Sekt production in the Rheingau. Today, Mark Barth, a Geisenheim-trained visionary and self-styled “Riesling Master,” being their core focus, helms the winemaking alongside his wife Christine. Their philosophy is to craft Sekts that radiate “inner peace” through patient, natural vinification, capturing the soul of historic vineyards with refreshing innovation. Germans may have reduced wine consumption dramatically but the sparkling wine consumption remains strong. Spanning around 20 hectares of organically farmed slopes – including crown jewels like the VDP.Grosse Lage Hattenheimer Hassel and VDP.Erste Lage Schützenhaus – the estate is a Riesling stronghold (over 80% of plantings), complemented by Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and bold experiments like Cabernet Sauvignon. Biodiversity thrives here: wild herbs and flowers dance between rows, hand-harvesting ensures perfection, and vegan practices honor the land for generations to come. What sets Barth apart is their devotion to Sekt as art. “Sparkling, Family Tradition – Open Minded,” Janna, our host and hospitality representative beamed, encapsulating their ethos. All Sekts are vintage-dated, born from traditional bottle fermentation with extended sur lie aging – the longest now stretching to five years for upcoming Wisselbrunnen Grosse Gewächs releases from 2023. Producing about 60,000 bottles annually, they currently disgorge by hand, riddling on pupitres (some whimsically hand-painted with Picasso-inspired motifs). Next year brings automation to scale their magic without compromise. All sparklings are vintage, but only declared with the single vineyards, much easier from the processing point of view for Barth and their clients. A delightful detour: the collaborative “Riegel” spirit (echoing partnerships in the region), where growers pool premium grapes for communal bases, each imprinting their unique label – a testament to Rheingau’s shared pursuit of excellence. The pinnacle was the tasting in their award-winning vinotheque, where Barth’s style unfolded like a masterpiece: mineral-laced freshness, creamy depth from lees, and gastronomic allure that dances on the palate. Standouts from their vast range: The prestige lineup? Transcendent. From vibrant entry-level sparks to prestige profundity, Barth’s Sekts aren’t mere drinks – they’re terroir-kissed elixirs that rival the world’s finest, blending tradition with fearless innovation. As Janna reflected, eyes sparkling: “We’re a family pouring heart into every bubble.” If your soul craves bubbles that captivate, evoke, and elevate, seek out Weingut Barth. One sip, and you’ll be enchanted forever.