Cristina Varchetta: Landscape, Silence and Continuity
Some encounters immediately feel like a homecoming. Speaking with Cristina Varchetta of Cantine Astroni, I was struck by her sense of place and genuine hospitality, and by how naturally our perspectives aligned: a love of independent travel, the joy of learning new languages, and the determination to shape a career around meaningful connections rather than rigid traditions. With Cristina, the Campi Flegrei became less an imposing volcanic backdrop and more an open invitation—to listen, to belong, and to return transformed. Our conversation moved easily between the practical work of the winery and the deeper emotional currents that sustain it, showing how closely the two are linked. The Winery Cantine Astroni sits on the outer slopes of the Astroni crater, between Naples and Pozzuoli, in the heart of the Campi Flegrei. Once a Bourbon hunting reserve, the area is now a WWF nature oasis. The Varchetta family has been connected to wine here for more than a century, beginning in 1891 with great-grandfather Vincenzo. The modern project took shape in the late 1990s. It was formalized around the birth of the Campi Flegrei DOC, transforming a family farm and holiday retreat into a focused boutique winery. Today the emphasis is on single-vineyard expression—an approach Cristina likens to the cru system of Burgundy—working primarily with ungrafted Falanghina and Piedirosso on sandy volcanic soils. Cousin Gerardo Vernazzaro is the winemaker. Hospitality is central to the place. Guests are invited not only to taste, but to understand the land through the stories that have shaped it. A Wine of Quiet Intensity My favorite wine from the estate was the Piedirosso. In its mineral depth, red-fruit lift, and volcanic tension, I felt the same quiet intensity that runs through Cristina’s way of speaking about this land. It does not shout. It holds its ground with elegance and a sense of place that lingers long after the glass is empty—much like the conversations that unfold around the table at Astroni. In that glass I tasted the resilience of the Campi Flegrei and the care with which this family interprets it. A Journey of Leaving and Returning As a child, Cristina did not dream of a specific profession. She dreamed of seeing the world. Languages, different cultures, and distant places fascinated her. She never imagined that wine would become the way she could travel while still carrying home with her wherever she went. She began in accounting, then made a deliberate shift toward the family winery. Seeking deeper technical knowledge and a different work rhythm, she studied with the Italian Sommelier Association (AIS) and the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET). Today her role centers on hospitality, communication, and export, work that satisfies her love of travel and independent movement while keeping her rooted in the Campi Flegrei. Her advice to her younger self is simple and hard-earned: do not be afraid of leaving, of studying, of making mistakes. Only by going away did she truly learn to appreciate her roots. That experience of departure and return shapes everything she does. She carries that lesson into her work with guests and into the way she speaks about the next generation. Hospitality as Inheritance More than any object, Cristina carries the memory of her grandparents’ hands—strong from years of work, yet incredibly gentle when they held a bunch of grapes. They taught her that respect always comes before technique. Today, when she welcomes guests, she tries to offer the same care they showed the land and the people around them. That, she says, is her most valuable inheritance. For her, the table remains the true center. Growing up, it was where her family shared stories, laughed, celebrated, and found comfort after difficult days. Wine is not the protagonist of the table; it is simply a way to create connection. What she hopes every guest takes home is not only the memory of a tasting, but the feeling of belonging—of having been part of something larger than a single bottle. Landscape, Silence, and Continuity When she stands alone in the vineyard at sunset, it is the silence that connects her most deeply to the women who came before her. In that slowing of the day, she feels as if the land still holds their voices. It reminds her that she does not own this place—she is simply passing through, with the responsibility of leaving it a little better than she found it. That sense of temporary stewardship runs through her approach to both the vines and the people who visit them. If her life in wine were a piece of music, it would be a melody that starts softly and grows with time. She would be a cello: an instrument that does not need to be the loudest in the orchestra to touch people’s hearts. Like the best wines of the Campi Flegrei, the most beautiful music does not rush. It matures, layer after layer, revealing more the longer one listens. Joy as Creative Fuel Even amid the seriousness of the wine world, Cristina protects small, unserious pleasures. One of them is dancing in her kitchen while cooking, even when she is completely alone. Those are the moments when she stops overthinking and enjoys life. Creativity, she believes, often comes from joy, and joy is usually found in the simplest moments. It is a reminder that hospitality and storytelling require not only discipline, but also lightness. What She Would Bottle If she could bottle one fleeting emotion from her journey and share it with younger women entering the industry, she would label it “Coming Home.” Leaving is important, she says, but coming back with new eyes is even more meaningful. She hopes every young woman understands that she never has to choose between her dreams and her roots. She can carry both, and in doing so, turn them into strength. What Remains What surprised Cristina most about stepping into the world of wine in Campania was discovering that it is first and foremost about people. A bottle may
Gilda Martusciello: The Woman Who Holds Her Ground
Some conversations stay with you, like the smell of wet earth after rain, sulfur in the air, or the comfort of morning coffee. My recent talk with Gilda Martusciello was like that. We spoke in early August, just after a 4.7-magnitude earthquake struck Campi Flegrei and the surrounding areas Portici and Pozzuoli. There was damage to homes, stress on infrastructure, and protests. Even so, Gilda spoke with calm and steadiness. The winery was safe, her family and friends were fine, and the Asprinio sparkling harvest would still start at the end of the month. That calmness came through in everything she said. That steadiness is central to both Gilda and Salvatore Martusciello wines. I could talk to her for hours—she inspires with her determination and courage. Gilda is modern but respects tradition. She enjoys cooking and caring for her herbs, and she also takes an active role in women-in-wine groups, helping shape the future of the industry with quiet strength. The Winery In 2015, Gilda Guida and her husband Salvatore Martusciello started a small, focused project called Salvatore Martusciello in the heart of Campi Flegrei. Building on the family’s work with local Campanian grape varieties and the creation of important DOCs, they focus on wines that reflect the identity of Campi Flegrei, Agro Aversano, and Penisola Sorrentina. These include Asprinio from the historic alberata system, Falanghina and Piedirosso on their own roots, and the Ottouve blends from Gragnano and Lettere. Their philosophy is simple: Vini di persistenza, or wines of persistence. For a fuller immersion in the winery, the vineyards, and the tasting experience during Campania Stories, see my earlier piece: Campania Stories Day 1 A Wine That Rooted Me to the Spot During my visit, one wine truly caught my attention: the Falanghina dei Campi Flegrei “Settevulcani” 2018. Its mineral depth, salinity, and quiet intensity reminded me of Gilda herself—her strength, determination, and deep love for this land. This wine did not try to impress with boldness or drama. Instead, it stood firm like Gilda. That bottle remains one of the most memorable experiences of my trip, a true reflection of persistence and place. A Woman Shaping the Future of Campanian and Italian Wine Gilda has been a member of Le Donne del Vino since 2004 and today serves as the regional Delegate for Campania, a role she assumed after years of progressive responsibility as former Campanian vice-delegate, National Counselor, and member of the Commission for International Relations. The association, founded in 1988 in Campania itself, has grown into the largest organization of its kind in the world, uniting more than 1,200 women across Italy who work to promote wine culture and elevate the visibility and leadership of women throughout the supply chain. Gilda’s long involvement gives her a unique perspective on how women’s roles have changed. She has seen the association grow from a small group of pioneers, including her mother-in-law Elena Martusciello, a former national president, into a structured network that builds skills, encourages international partnerships, and supports the next generation through projects like D-Vino. In Campania, which has one of the highest percentages of women-led or women-influenced wineries in Italy, her work turns individual stories into collective strength. She also holds important roles in the region, serving as Vice-President of Vitica, the Consorzio Viticoltori del Casertano, and as Counselor of the Consorzio Penisola Sorrentina DOP. In these positions, she encourages collaboration instead of working alone, urging producers to promote the region’s biodiversity, authentic lower-alcohol wines, and unique training systems like the alberata as shared strengths. “Previous generations found cooperation difficult,” she told me. Today, working together is both necessary and possible. Through these roles, Gilda helps drive a bigger change: women in Campania and across Italy now lead in strategy, education, sustainability, and storytelling. A Journey Written in Precision and Belonging Her own journey reflects that quiet change. Gilda did not plan to make wine. As a child, she wanted to be a cardiac surgeon, a goal that required the same precision she later used in the vineyard and cellar. She earned a degree in Economics from Università Parthenope and a master’s in international business. In 1998, she joined Grotta del Sole. What started as a job soon became full immersion. “It was not only a job,” she said about those early years, “but an abrupt entry into a new world.” Salvatore and his family, pioneers in protecting Campania’s native grapes, introduced her to a world of soil, patience, and intuition. She married Salvatore in 2005, and in 2015 they started their own small project so their experiences could finally have a voice. She sees tradition clearly. For her, honoring history does not mean staying the same. “Find a personal interpretation,” she suggests. Bring your own style into the historical framework so the winery stays alive. This is the quiet change she lives every day: staying true without rigidity. Sensory Grounding and the Women Who Shape Her When I asked Gilda about her favorite place in Campania, she answered with a memory of scents: sulfur, wet soil, and sea air. This unique smell of the Phlegraean landscape takes her back to childhood and her late mother. These memories keep her grounded. They are her private guide as she moves through harvest, meetings, and leadership roles. Her daily routine is simple and intentional: first coffee, tending to her herbs, and a quiet moment before the day begins. To the next generation, including her daughter, she offers clear advice: keep learning, build a good reputation, and stay true to yourself. She believes these are the qualities that last. Three women inspire her, each showing a different kind of strength, continuity, and identity. The first is her mother, who taught her to cook and whose presence lives on in Gilda’s daily routines: making morning coffee and tending to aromatic herbs as the seasons change. These small, repeated actions are more than habits. They connect her to the woman who first showed her that care, precision, and love can be