Beyond the Bottle: Sebastián Labbé’s Quest for Authenticity, Elegance, and a Touch of the Ocean
Imagine winemaking as a captivating dance with nature, a never-ending quest shaped by climate, tradition, and an unwavering passion for capturing the purest expression of the land. This is the vibrant reality for Sebastián Labbé, a globe-trotting enologist whose diverse experiences have converged to forge his distinctive vision for the future of Chilean wine. His journey is a compelling tale of exploration, innovation, and profound dedication. Recently, I had the immense pleasure of sitting down with Sebastián for a one-on-one discussion about his journey, his philosophy, and his hopes for the future, all while savoring the exquisite Premium Wines portfolio of Viña Santa Rita. Sebastián’s path began with a solid foundation in agricultural engineering and enology from the Pontifical Catholic University of Chile, but his true education unfolded far beyond his home country. His journey to becoming a champion of Chilean terroir started in some of the world’s most renowned wine regions. Training in New Zealand instilled in him a deep appreciation for meticulous viticulture and a laser focus on sustainability. He was captivated by how a relatively small island nation could make such a profound global impact with its distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. “They’re very good with a strength in sustainability and biodiversity,” he reflects. Australia offered a different kind of education, broadening his understanding of winemaking on a grander scale. He immersed himself in larger-scale operations and a wider range of varietals, honing his craft with Semillon and Shiraz. Bringing his unique global insights back to Chile, Sebastián joined Viña Carmen as Chief Winemaker, part of the esteemed Santa Rita Group in 2005 and later in 2017 spearheading the Ultra-Premium portfolio of Sant Rita. Here, he embarked on a mission to produce exceptional wines that truly capture the essence of Chile’s diverse terroirs. He’s not just a pioneer in flavor, but also in sustainable practices, ensuring the wines are as kind to the earth as they are to your palate. Santa Rita Winery, one of Chile’s most iconic wine producers, boasts a rich history intertwined with the country’s cultural and political landscape. Founded in 1880 by Domingo Fernández Concha in the renowned Maipo Valley, Santa Rita quickly gained a reputation for quality by introducing French grape varieties and modern winemaking techniques. This progressive approach was groundbreaking at a time when Chilean wine was largely rustic. The winery also holds a piece of Chilean history; during the War of Independence, it provided refuge to 120 soldiers—an event commemorated by their popular “120” wine. Today, Santa Rita continues to expand and modernize, maintaining an unwavering commitment to sustainability, quality, and tradition, producing everything from accessible labels to premium wines that highlight Chile’s rich terroir. “I think there’s more and more focusing on farming in general,” Sebastián emphasizes, setting the tone for a conversation centered on the vital connection between the vine and its environment. For him, it’s not just about growing grapes; it’s about cultivating a holistic ecosystem. He spoke passionately about compost preparations, meticulous soil work, and the intentional integration of animals into the vineyard, all fostering a thriving, biodiverse environment. While organic certification isn’t always the sole objective, the philosophy of sustainability is paramount. It’s a deliberate move “back to before the industrial ages, where natural wines, you’re seeing a lot more to the farming and going back to the terroir, as opposed to the conventional methods.” He points to a global shift, even among Burgundy winemakers once reliant on herbicides, now embracing organic practices—a testament to this mindful approach to viticulture. Tasting the Vision As Sebastián guided me through his journey, we sampled the latest releases from Santa Rita’s ultra-premium collection, including the minimal-intervention Floresta wines, the iconic Pewën Carmenere, their Bordeaux-inspired blend Triple C, and the winery’s flagship Casa Real. The Floresta range truly embodies Sebastián’s passion, showcasing his vision for wines that are fresh, vibrant, and deeply expressive of their origins. The wines are terroir specific with minimal intervention as “we wanted to make wines that were more of that style, fresher and with less use of oak,” he explains. Tasting these wines is akin to taking a guided tour of Chile’s diverse viticultural landscapes. Sebastián’s vision for Chilean wine extends beyond crafting exceptional wines; he seeks to challenge preconceived notions and pave the way for future generations of winemakers. “I was tired about this stereotype of Carmenere being big, rich, flat, slightly herbal, ripe with a ton of oak,” he admits, expressing his desire to showcase the true potential of this iconic Chilean variety. He advocates for earlier harvesting, fermentation in concrete tanks, and a judicious use of oak to allow the purity of the fruit to shine through. “There is a big difference, and I still find between herbal characteristics and vegetated characteristics. I think this one is freshness, and the other is under-ripeness.” His continuous challenge is to fine-tune the wines without compromising the house style, especially when dealing with eight subdivided blocks—a challenge he consistently meets head-on. He vividly recounts Chile’s geological history, explaining how the formation of the Andes Mountains and the presence of calcium carbonate deposits in the Limarí Valley contribute to the wines’ unique character. “So that might have that kind of a beautiful tension, but they got a little bit more checks at the same time.” This deep understanding of terroir isn’t merely academic; it informs every decision he makes in the vineyard and the winery. As for advice to future oenologists, he implores them to travel and immerse themselves in the diverse realities of the wine world. Experiencing winemaking firsthand in different regions is crucial for gaining wisdom and unlocking future potential. In a personal choice that speaks volumes about his values, Sebastián recently moved back to the ocean. “After a pandemic, I said, I wanted to return to my roots, closer to the ocean,” he shares. For him, the ocean is more than just a scenic backdrop; it’s a source of tranquility and inspiration, a constant reminder of the natural forces that shape his wines.
MAN Up Your Wine Game: Discover South African Delights
Looking for delicious, approachable wines that won’t break the bank? Look no further than MAN Family Wines from South Africa’s Cape Coast! Founded in 2001 by José Conde and brothers Tyrrel and Philip Myburgh (the “MAN” comes from the initials of their wives – Marie, Anette, and Nicky!), this brand is dedicated to producing high-quality, modern-style wines with exceptional value and eye-catching packaging. What sets MAN Family Wines apart? Their commitment to a single wine-growing region, allowing them to authentically express the distinctive character of the area. And, just in time for warmer weather, they have new labels featuring hand-drawn illustrations by South African artist Georgina Taylor, reflecting the sustainably farmed vineyards and the beautiful flora and fauna of the landscape. There is something for everyone in their lineup from zesty whites to layered reds. Here’s a taste of what MAN Family Wines has to offer: MAN Family Wines Chenin Blanc 2024: Summer sipper awaits! This crisp, light-bodied Chenin Blanc is bursting with white peach, green apple, and a zesty citrus kick. Refreshing, mineral-driven, and utterly delicious. Your new go-to aperitif! MAN Family Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2024: Pale straw with a hint of green, this Sauvignon Blanc is a delightful dance between refreshing herbaceous flavors and lush tropical vibes! Think ripe passionfruit and juicy pineapple perfectly balanced by crisp acidity and a touch of richness from Sémillon. It’s like a summer vacation in a glass MAN Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2023: Dark and delicious! Garnet hues beckon you to a world of black cherries and dark chocolate aromas! This plush, medium-bodied Cab bursts with cherry, cassis, and red currant flavors, leading to a smooth and satisfying finish. Perfect for your next steak night! MAN Family Wines Pinotage 2023: Dive into the unique world of Pinotage! This ruby-garnet beauty teases with mocha, coffee bean, vanilla, spice and ripe plum aromas. On the palate, it’s a delicious dance of red berries, nutmeg, and a touch of oak. Medium-bodied and oh-so-satisfying, it’s a taste of South Africa in every sip! MAN Family Wines Chardonnay 2024: Zesty and delicious! Pale straw in color, this Chardonnay is bursting with zesty lime, lemon, burnt orange and white peach flavors. The nose is a delightful mix of pineapple, orange marmalade, and a hint of butterscotch. With its harmonious blend of crisp fruit and subtle oak, it’s a refreshing and versatile Chardonnay that’s sure to please! With its commitment to quality, value, and beautiful packaging, MAN Family Wines is the perfect choice for everyday enjoyment and for exploring the diverse flavors of South Africa! Cheers!
A Virtual Trip to Romagna with Aldo Rametta
I recently had the pleasure of joining an inspiring virtual journey with Aldo Rametta—a masterful storyteller and passionate vintner—who took us deep into the heart of Emilia-Romagna’s rich viticultural landscape. More than just a tasting, it was an immersive experience weaving together history, family tradition, and the undeniable passion fueling this extraordinary region. Set against the rolling hills of Appeninne Mountains, where Italy’s heart beats strong, brothers Aldo and Paolo Rametta are forging a bold new chapter in their ancestral homeland. Modigliani wine region is a hidden gem as this area has one foot bordering Tuscany and the other in Romagna, creating a unique tapestry of cultural beauty. The wines found here are distinct and exceptional that captures the heartbeat of the heritage and landscape. Drawing inspiration from their entrepreneurial background in renewable energy, they approached winemaking with a fresh perspective—blending tradition with innovation. As Aldo eloquently stated, “We consider ourselves first-generation winemakers of what we hope will be many.” A sentiment reflecting their dedication to honoring their heritage while pushing boundaries. Their journey began in 2016 with Poggio della Dogana and expanded in 2020 with the revival of Ronchi di Castelluccio, a historic estate carrying years of illustrious history. Here, a renaissance is underway—vines are being restored, and old traditions reimagined through sustainable practices and a deep respect for the land. The Historic Ronchi di Castelluccio: Breathing New Life into a Legacy Founded with roots reaching back to Gian Vittorio Baldi, Ronchi di Castelluccio is being meticulously restored under the brothers’ guidance, with Francesco Bordini at the helm. They’re replanting historic vines, emphasizing single-vineyard expressions, and celebrating each “ronco”—or parcel of land—with unique, individual personalities. From the legendary Ronco Casone to the intriguing Ronco della Simia, every bottle whispers stories of terroir, history, and local lore. With their limited production and unwavering respect for authenticity, the estate stands as a testament to the region’s potential for exceptional wines. Poggio della Dogana: Where Tradition Embraces Innovation Nestled along the historic border between Papal Romagna and Tuscany, Poggio della Dogana reflects the diverse tapestry of the region. Organic farming practices and a focus on native grape varieties define its character. Guided by Francesco Bordini, the estate crafts a portfolio that balances elegance with vibrancy—featuring Sangiovese classics like I Quattro Bastioni and the refined Santa Reparata, alongside aromatic whites like Belladama and Nubivago Trebbiano. Inspired by their artistic heritage, Aldo and Paolo pay tribute to their family roots by featuring sketches drawn by their great-great-grandfather Silvio Gordini on each label—a heartfelt homage to their history. Modigliana’s wines are shaped by three key factors that enhance their complexity and elegance. The vineyards are situated at an altitude of 500 meters on the mountain, offering unique climatic conditions. Additionally, for every hectare of vineyards, there are four hectares of forest, contributing to the overall ecosystem and microclimate. The soil composition, predominantly sandstone (80%) with a smaller proportion of marl (20%), imparts distinct mineral qualities to the wines. In line with their philosophy of reflecting the true terroir, all wines undergo hand harvesting, spontaneous fermentation by hand and minimal intervention, ensuring that the vineyard’s unique character is beautifully preserved. Tasting through Time and Terroir Our tasting journey took us through both estates, revealing the soul of Romagna in every sip: Belladama Romagna DOCG Albana Secco 2023: This dry Albana hails from 20-year-old vines rooted in yellow sands mixed with marl of Brisighella, nestled between 200 and 300 meters above sea level. An ode to Aldo and Paolo’s mother, Belladama’s label features a delicate flower sketch by their grandfather, blending family history with terroir’s expression. As Aldo beautifully put it, _“The wines carry the memory of the sea,”_ a fitting tribute to the vineyards only 35 km from the Adriatic coast. The wine matures over ten months in concrete tanks, where periodic bâtonage on the fine lees enhances richness, followed by at least four months in bottle to develop complexity. Its deep golden hue hints at the vibrant aromas within—citrus fruits like grapefruit and lemon, complemented by yellow flowers and fragrant herbs such as sage and rosemary. On the palate, a dance unfolds: fresh grapefruit and stone fruits meld with honeyed peaches, while herbal and saline notes, typical of Brisighella soils, add depth. Farfarello Romagna DOCG Albana Secco: From the same pristine vineyards as Belladama, this Albana is crafted in an international style—more rounded and complex. Aged in French oak barriques with a gentle toasting for nine months and then in bottle for at least a year, it embodies vibrancy and sophistication. The color shimmers golden; the nose is an inviting tapestry of ripe pear, zesty lemon zest, and wild herbs. The palate offers immediate refreshment—bright citrus flavors intertwined with a mineral backbone and a subtle hint of almond that lingers. Elegant yet lively, Farfarello promises both instant pleasure and the potential for further development—making it perfect for seafood, light pasta dishes, or simply savoring on its own for a sunny escape. Buco del Prete Romagna DOC Sangiovese 2021: From vines planted in 1989 perched at 280 meters—discovered after decades of abandonment—this Sangiovese is a true hidden gem. Its label, inspired by the woods surrounding the vineyard, illustrates a bottom-up view that evokes a sensory journey into its rustic soul. After 12 months aging in large 3,000-liter oak barrels and a further year in bottle, the wine reveals a lively personality. Vibrant red fruit—ripe cherry and wild strawberry—are complemented by nuanced notes of rose, oregano, cocoa, and spice. Bright acidity balances silky tannins, making each sip both refreshing and inviting. A perfect expression of Modigliana’s rugged charm. Ronco Casone Romagna DOC Sangiovese 2020: Named after a family nickname, this wine originates from a northwest-facing cru at 300 meters altitude, just a stone’s throw from Simia. It presents a leaner, more elegant profile—yet one full of depth and character. Juicy, with vibrant notes of ripe cherry, plum, and a touch of Mediterranean herbs, this Sangiovese exudes freshness and finesse. The high acidity and fine, sticky tannins
A Journey of the Jura
Recently, I found myself back at my old stomping grounds, the Commonwealth Wine School in Boston, for a Jura trade tasting event that promised to be both enlightening and enriching. The highlight of the day? A captivating session led by the renowned British wine writer and educator Wink Lorch. Her latest book, Jura Wine Ten Years On, serves as an insightful companion to her earlier work, Jura Wine, offering a deeper dive into the enigmatic Jura region. “Jura is upside down when it comes to wine – you drink the reds early and chilled, the whites are aged, bottled after the reds and are best at room temperature. In her latest book, Jura Wine Ten Years On, British wine writer and educator Wink Lorch offers a captivating sequel to her acclaimed work, Jura Wine. This new volume explores the enigmatic Jura region, known for its diverse and intriguing wines, from red to the unique ouillé styles, celebrating the authenticity of its winemakers. Wink Lorch delves into the transformations the region has undergone over the past decade, where climate change has posed challenges by reducing wine volumes even as global demand for Jura’s wines skyrockets. During an enlightening tasting session, we journeyed through six handpicked Jura wines with Lorch, gaining insights into each bottle’s story. 1. Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Arbois-Pupillin Ploussard “La Rouge”, 2020: Much like Syrah, this Ploussard is wonderfully reductive, showcasing a classic pale garnet hue. Expect rustic charm, red berries, high acidity, light tannins, and a delightful spice that lingers on the palate. 2. Jean Luc Mouillard Côtes du Jura Trousseau 2022: This offering provides more structure than Ploussard, featuring darker fruit with a dusty bramble character, medium chalky tannins, and high acidity—a standout choice for those who relish complexity. 3. Croix & Courbet Côtes du Jura ‘En Beaumont’ Savagnin Ouillé 2022: Crafted like a Burgundy but aged for 18 months in demi-muid barrels, this wine is rich in terroir, boasting a salty citrus profile that captivates the senses. 4. Domaine du Pélican Arbois Chardonnay 2022: Embracing Burgundian methods, this Chardonnay offers a saline, citrus, and stone fruit medley, with delicate spice and a prolonged hazelnut finish—an exquisite high-acid, medium-bodied delight. 5. Domaine Bourdy Côtes du Jura Chardonnay 2020: With a slightly oxidative character, it bursts with lemon curd aromas. As noted by Laura Beauty, the cellar’s influence dominates the nose, while the acidity remains superbly high and refreshing. 6. Domaine A&M Tissot Arbois Savagnin ‘Sous Voile’ 2020: Aged 33 months sous voile, this wine presents a symphony of nuts, dried stone and citrus fruit, and fenugreek, offering a creamy, cheesy elegance that balances the elegant structure and savory character beautifully. The session was more than just a tasting; it was a journey through time and terroir, revealing how Jura’s wines have evolved and adapted. For those of us lucky enough to attend, it was a reminder of the enduring charm and resilience of this remarkable wine region.
A Taste of Argentina: Malbec World Day, the Tango, and the Spirit of Terroir
Wine, like the tango, deeply embodies passion and emotion. Both create a sensory experience imbued with immense cultural significance and identity. In essence, both wine and tango are more than just a beverage or a dance; they are cultural expressions that engage our senses, evoke emotions, foster social connections, and carry rich histories and traditions. They both offer a journey of discovery and appreciation for those who delve deeper into their complexities. It’s perhaps not surprising that in Argentina, the land of tango, wine (especially Malbec) also holds a place of national pride and passion, leading to events and experiences that beautifully blend these two iconic elements of their culture. Recently, I had the distinct pleasure of attending a unique celebration for Malbec World Day, generously sponsored by Wines of Argentina and the Consulate General of Argentina in New York. The event offered a delightful immersion into the diverse wine offerings of Argentina. As guests arrived, we mingled and sampled a selection of Argentine wines. After all, Argentina offers more than just Malbec—delighting our palates with a Familia Zuccardi PetNat and Polígonos San Pablo Pinot Noir, Puerta Del Arbra Insólito Cabernet Franc as well as Finca El Origin Reserve Malbec, Bodega Luigi Bosca Los Nobles (94% Malbec & 6% Petit Verdot ) and Alpasión Gran Malbec. The experience began with an opportunity to indulge in the various wines of Argentina, setting the stage for a guided tasting led by the esteemed Sommelier Charles Springfield. He expertly guided us through the fascinating facets of Malbec and Argentina’s broader viticultural landscape. The guided tasting featured three whites and five reds: Familia Zuccardi Blanc de Blancs NV: Made from 100% Chardonnay, the lively bubbles bounced with zesty lemon, toast and crisp green apple notes with delicate white floral hints. Bright, refreshing, and charming with a clean, invigorating finish. Trivento Reserve White Malbec 2024: Crisp and clean, vibrant character, bright acidity and a lively, citrusy backbone. Loads of lime, and grapefruit, sweet pineapple, acacia alongside green apple and pear with a touch of minerality. Incredibly interesting Puerta Del Arbra Insólito Albariño 2020: Nestled in the Balcarce region of Buenos Aires, Argentina, this is the area’s only winery. I had the delightful opportunity to meet Sebastian Perez Compane, a proud member of the family, at the event. He shared how their passion for winemaking started as a way to share special moments with loved ones—and over time, it blossomed into the region’s only boutique winery. It’s a charming story of family, tradition, and dedication that truly sets this place apart. Ripe white peach and subtle tropical aromas with a hint of salinity. Creamy texture with bright acidity, juicy citrus enveloped in savory bread dough and resinous herbs. Persistent, elegant finish. Finca El Origin Single Vineyard Malbec 2021: Ripe blackberries and plums with vanilla, sweet spice, and violet notes. Elegant, full-bodied palate with dark fruit, chocolate, and subtle oak. Velvety tannins and a long, satisfying finish. Alpasión Private Selection 2019 (Malbec, Syrah, Petit Verdot & Cabernet Franc): Ripe black fruits with spicy notes, violet, and dark chocolate. Rich, full-bodied, and velvety with concentrated blackberry, plum, and spice. Firm, well-structured tannins and a long, complex, satisfying finish. Bodega Luigi Bosca De Sangre Malbec 2021: Deep ruby with violet reflections. Intense ripe black fruit aromas with vanilla, chocolate, and spice. Full-bodied and rich with a velvety texture, firm tannins, dark fruit, mocha, and minerality. Long, elegant finish. Trapiche Medalla Malbec 2022: Deep violet hue. Enticing ripe black fruit aromas with vanilla and spice. Full-bodied and powerful with concentrated lush plum, juicy blackberry, and elegant oak. Well-structured tannins and balanced acidity. Long, memorable finish. Bodegas Escorihuela Escorihuela 1884 Single Vineyard Malbec 2023: Deep, intense violet color. Alluring ripe black fruit aromas with delicate violet, spice, and vanilla. Velvety palate with concentrated blackberry, plum, and mocha. Well-integrated tannins. Long, persistent finish. Complementing these exceptional wines were delicious culinary bites, perfectly paired to enhance the tasting experience. Adding another layer of Argentine artistry, we were captivated by the incredibly talented tango dancers, their movements echoing the passion found within the wines. The entire event enveloped us in a vibrant Argentine cultural atmosphere. What truly stood out amongst these artisanal wines was their undeniable purity, energy, and the palpable spirit of the terroir. Each sip offered a glimpse into the unique land and dedication of the Argentine winemakers. The Malbec World Day celebration was a vibrant testament to the rich cultural heritage of Argentina. The exceptional wines, particularly the diverse expressions of Malbec, alongside the captivating tango and authentic atmosphere, created a truly memorable experience that highlighted the passion and terroir inherent in Argentine artistry. Watch the Instagram Reel A Taste Of Argentina
Billecart-Salmon: Where Elegance Bubbles with Passion – A Masterclass in NYC
Following the highly anticipated launch of the Nicolas François 2012, I had the distinct pleasure of attending an intimate masterclass hosted by Champagne Billecart-Salmon. The unique setting for this insightful event was at the NYC culture club, a nonprofit organization dedicated to creating exhibition opportunities for artists and creators, perched high on the 69th floor of the World Trade Center. While I was fortunate to have recently spent a wonderful afternoon visiting the Champagne region and enjoying a tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart (more on that experience to follow shortly), this masterclass offered a different, equally enriching perspective. We embarked on a journey through Billecart-Salmon’s savoir-faire and prestige cuvées, gaining invaluable insights into the house’s deeply held winemaking philosophy. At its core, the Billecart-Salmon philosophy centers on crafting Champagnes of delicate character rather than overt power. The house represents a harmonious marriage of time-honored traditions and forward-thinking techniques, all meticulously dedicated to producing Champagnes that epitomize refined pleasure and the simple joy of shared moments. Guided by a profound belief in Champagne’s capacity to elevate everyday moments, Mathieu Roland-Billecart, a seventh-generation custodian of the estate, views their work as a direct contribution to the happiness of the present. Their resulting Champagnes are both effortlessly enjoyable in their youth and possess the structure to develop captivating complexity with age. A notable new feature across Billecart-Salmon’s cuvées is the introduction of the My Origin code, a six-digit reference code on their champagne bottles, unlocks a wealth of information about each specific blend. By inputting this code, consumers can access details ranging from the residual sugar levels to the precise location of the vines. It’s a comprehensive and detailed look into virtually any aspect one might wish to know about the production of each of these exceptional cuvées. It was designed to provide greater transparency to the consumer. During the masterclass, Mathieu Roland-Billecart eloquently guided us through the importance of family involvement in the estate’s history, the unique influence of their terroir, their unwavering winemaking philosophy, and their renowned “savoir-faire.” We had the pleasure of experiencing the following exceptional cuvées: Le Rosé Elisabeth-Salmon 2012 Le Réserve Nicolas François 2012 Le Blanc de Blancs Louis Salmon 2012 An unexpected highlight of the Billecart-Salmon masterclass was the unveiling of the newly launched Le Rosé 2015, a cuvée specifically destined for the US market. Intriguingly, this rosé was initially considered for the Elisabeth Salmon 2015 designation. However, despite reaching 99% of the required characteristics, it was ultimately deemed to lack the precise spice essential to the Elisabeth Salmon’s distinguished profile. This insight underscored the uncompromising standards upheld by the house. The Billecart-Salmon masterclass in NYC was an illuminating experience, offering a deeper appreciation for the meticulous craftsmanship and unwavering dedication to quality that defines this esteemed Champagne house. Watch the Instagram reel A Masterclass Of Passion
Nicolas Francois 2012-A Vintage Celebration
Sparkle the night as we raise a glass to heritage and exceptional taste! 🥂 For seven generations Champagne Billecart-Salmon has been crafting champagnes that embody a relentless pursuit of excellence. Mathieu Roland-Billecart our host for this golden evening celebrating the highly anticipated unveiling of their prestigious vintage cuvée: Nicolas François 2012 This cuvée is the very soul of the Maison captured in a bottle. Hand selected from only their best Crus of Pinot Noir Noir and Chardonnay, a star is born from this exceptional year. From the finest parcels of Billecart-Salmon, Nicolas François Billecart 2012 isn’t just made; it’s orchestrated. Picture this: a symphony of Pinot Noir (a generous 60%, hailing from the prestigious Montagne de Reims and the revered Vallée de la Marne, including Grand Cru villages like Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ and Verzenay) waltzes gracefully with the elegant Chardonnay (40%, a starlet from the Côte des Blancs’ Grand Cru vineyards (Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly and Avize). This isn’t just any grape selection; it’s a gathering of Champagne’s elite, a 90% Grand and 10% Premier Cru affair, setting the stage for something truly exceptional. The winemaking journey is a testament to Billecart-Salmon’s unwavering pursuit of elegance. A hallmark of the house style is a long, slow fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks. This technique helps to retain the fresh and delicate aromas of the grapes. Then, a languid, cool fermentation unfolds in stainless steel, a deliberate slow dance to preserve the delicate whispers of fruit. But here’s a secret ingredient: a whisper of tradition, as roughly 10% of these nascent wines find temporary homes in oak casks, breathing in subtle layers of richness and spice, a gentle nudge towards complexity without ever stealing the spotlight. While not always the case, the 2012 vintage saw a partial malolactic fermentation (around 20% was blocked). This contributes to a balanced acidity and a smoother texture. Now, the real magic unfolds in the hushed darkness of Billecart-Salmon’s cellars. For a staggering ten years – a full 120 months. Finally, the grand reveal, with a mere whisper of sweetness – a remarkably low 3.8 grams per liter dosage – allowing the inherent brilliance of the vintage, the purity of the fruit, and that captivating chalky minerality to sing unburdened. As the cork whispers its release, a delicate, almost ethereal mousse rises with purpose, forming a persistent halo of the finest bubbles – like a constellation forming in your flute. The color is a radiant pale gold, hinting at the wine’s maturity and the pedigree of its noble grapes: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a judicious touch of Pinot Meunier adding its signature charm. Bring the glass closer, and the aromatic tapestry begins to unfold. Initially shy, it blossoms with aeration, revealing a captivating dance between freshness and complexity. Imagine biting into a perfectly ripe white peach and apricot, intertwined with the delicate perfume of Meyer lemon zest, beeswax, minerality, freshly baked brioche and sweet pastry. There’s a subtle undercurrent of hazelnut and a tantalizing hint of acacia and honeysuckle adding layers of intrigue that beckon you deeper. The first sip is an awakening. The mousse is exquisitely fine, a creamy caress on the palate that carries a vibrant energy. The 2012 vintage lends a beautiful structure and tension, with a laser-like acidity that cuts through the richness, creating a harmonious balance. The flavors echo the nose but with greater intensity. As the wine lingers on your palate, the complexity truly shines. Notes of toasted almond and salted caramel are met with subtle hints of vanilla bean, wildflower honey emerge adding depth. The finish is remarkably long and elegant, leaving you with a refreshing saline character, orange zest and nuttiness. This Nicolas François Billecart 2012 is not a boisterous party-starter; it’s a sophisticated conversationalist. It demands a moment of quiet appreciation, rewarding those who take the time to truly engage with its layers. It’s a Champagne that speaks of elegance, precision, and the magic that can happen when exceptional fruit meets masterful winemaking. The Billecart-Salmon Nicolas François Billecart 2012 is more than just a Champagne; it’s an experience. It’s a journey through delicate aromas, a vibrant palate, and a lingering finish that whispers of its exceptional pedigree. If you’re a wine lover who seeks elegance, complexity, and a touch of magic in your glass, this is a bottle that deserves a place on your table. Don’t just drink it; savor it, explore it, and let it transport you to the heart of Champagne. Cheers to the art of fine wine! 🥂The rooftop of The Peninsula NYC (The Pen) crackled with sparkling anticipation! Live jazz created the perfect ambiance as the city lights twinkled, mirroring the effervescent conversations as we indulged in this magnum moment of this remarkable vintage. This intimate gathering offered a rare and special connection to the story of Billecart-Salmon, making it a truly golden evening that I will never forget. More to follow on this maison and their cuvées. Watch the Instagram reel Nicolas Francois 2012
Savoring The Charm of Rotisserie Henri IV
Rotisserie Henri IV located in the center of Aÿ-Champagne, France, is truly a gem that I absolutely loved discovering. From the moment I stepped inside, I felt warmly welcomed by the cozy, art nouveau blended with French elegance charm of the place. It’s the kind of spot that makes you feel like you’re visiting a good friend’s home—comfortable, inviting, and full of character. The restaurant’s name pays homage to King Henry IV, often called “Good King Henry”, was deeply connected to the village of Aÿ-Champagne in the Champagne region of France. He was known for his love of Champagne (often drunk as a “form of medicine”) and even said he’d rather be “Lord of Aÿ” than King of France. He owned vineyards in Champagne, and it’s believed he preferred the title of “Lord of the Vineyards of Aÿ” to other titles. During the Wars of Religion, he granted a truce to allow the inhabitants of Aÿ to hold their grape harvest, showing his appreciation for the local economy. Upon arrival I was treated to one of my favorites, Le Blanc de Blancs from Champagne Billecart-Salmon, a pure Chardonnay that embodies elegance and finesse. Delicately crafted it opens with radiant citrus and green apple notes, complemented by hints of white flowers and brioche. The mousse is finely textured, leading to a crisp, vibrant finish that lingers beautifully. A refined expression of pure Chardonnay, this Champagne exemplifies grace and sophistication. The real star here is their rotisserie. I couldn’t resist trying the ribs, and wow, it was perfectly roasted—crispy and caramelized on the outside, unbelievably juicy on the inside. The flavors were so rich and comforting thanks to their house barbecue sauce, it felt like a hug from the culinary gods. Paired with some local wine, it made for a truly memorable meal. What really made my experience special was the staff—they were friendly, passionate, and eager to share stories about the region and their food. It’s evident they pour love into every dish they serve. If you’re ever in Ay, I wholeheartedly recommend stopping by Rotisserie Henri IV. It’s a delightful taste of French tradition, served with warmth and genuine care. An experience I’ll be coming back for! Watch the Instagram Reel Savoring The Charm of Rotisserie Henri IV
Discover the Mediterranean With The Sunny Spirit of Souleil Vins de Bonté
Souleil Vins de Bonté is a breath of fresh air from the heart of Southern France. This isn’t just wine; it’s a passion project, deeply rooted in respect for its sun-drenched terroir.. Imagine vineyards where the Mistral wind whispers secrets through the vines, carrying the intoxicating scent of wild herbs and ripening grapes. This is Souleil’s soul. What makes them so captivating is their dedication to crafting wines that are both approachable and wonderfully expressive, wines that genuinely sing of the Southern France character without any stuffiness. “Vins de Bonté” – wines of goodness, wines of kindness. This isn’t just a charming name; it’s the very ethos that permeates everything they do. Souleil isn’t chasing fleeting trends or aiming for those over-the-top, blockbuster styles. Instead, they champion balance, elegance, and, above all, wines that bring pure, unadulterated joy to your glass. Picture yourself sharing a bottle with cherished friends on a warm evening, laughter and conversation flowing as seamlessly as the wine you’re savoring. They’re the kind of quality value producer you feel like you’ve unearthed, a delightful secret you can’t wait to share with fellow wine lovers. Their blends, often featuring the classic Rhône grapes like Picpoul, Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, are harmonious, vibrant, and brimming with personality. Close your eyes. Take a sip. Suddenly, you’re whisked away to the sun-drenched Mediterranean coast. That’s the magic I experienced tasting the latest 2024 vintage of Souleil with the delightful founder, Marianne Fabre-Lanvin, at Wine Paris this past February. It wasn’t just a tasting; it was a vivid sensory journey. I could almost hear the gentle rhythm of waves lapping the shore, feel the warmth of the sun dancing on the water, and imagine the joyful murmur of friends sharing a perfect moment nearby. It was an instant transport to a blissful seaside escape. The unifying thread? Freshness, elegance, and sheer drinkability. These are wines meant for sharing, for sunshine-filled afternoons and the easy camaraderie of good company. They embody a bon vivant attitude with a never-ending summer spirit. And what’s inside the bottle has beautifully inspired the outside. The distinctive labels, designed by the New York-based agency Polonsky & Friends, draw inspiration from vintage Southern French Eau de Cologne labels, achieving a nostalgic yet distinctly contemporary French aesthetic. Behind this thoughtful branding is Anna Polonsky, the founder and creative director of Polonsky & Friends, an agency known for its mission-driven projects that emphasize quality, craftsmanship, and community enrichment within the food industry. Meet the Souleil Trio: A Taste of the Sun Le Blanc 2023: Imagine a burst of Mediterranean sunshine in a glass! This lively blend (93% Piquepoul, 4% Terret Blanc, 3% Ugni Blanc) zings with bright citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit, beautifully underscored by hints of white peach and a refreshing touch of minerality. Its crisp acidity makes it the perfect aperitif or a delightful partner to light seafood dishes. Le Rosé 2023: Delicate and dry, this elegant rosé (95% Grenache, 5% Cinsault) whispers of fresh strawberries and raspberries, intertwined with subtle floral undertones. Its vibrant acidity and clean finish make it incredibly versatile – think crisp salads, grilled vegetables, or light, flavorful Mediterranean cuisine. Le Rouge 2023: Smooth and inviting, this red blend (65% Syrah, 35% Grenache) offers juicy red fruit flavors like ripe cherry and plum, framed by soft tannins and a gentle hint of spice. Easy-drinking yet with satisfying depth, it’s your go-to for casual gatherings or alongside simple pleasures like grilled turkey Italian sausages with orzo salad. But Souleil Vins de Bonté is about so much more than just crafting delicious wines. They’ve woven a deep commitment to community and environmental care into their very essence. It is more than a beverage, it’s a conscious choice to support a better world. Here’s how Souleil pours its heart back Supporting Marine Conservation: Imagine savoring a crisp white wine knowing that a portion of what you paid is directly contributing to the health of our precious oceans. Souleil dedicates a share of its profits to impactful organizations working tirelessly to protect marine ecosystems, tackling the urgent issue of ocean pollution. Their dedicated partners include VJBRPC in the USA, 5 Minute Foundation in Costa Rica, Project Rescue Ocean in France, and Reef Conservation & Bis Lamer in Mauritius. Fostering Community Engagement: The founders envisioned their wine as a catalyst for connection, bringing “radiance and goodness” to every gathering. Their vision extends beyond the shared clink of glasses, with active plans for collaborations on beach cleanups, uniting communities across continents in a shared mission. These initiatives not only help preserve our coastlines but also raise crucial awareness for their non-profit partners’ vital work, encompassing hands-on cleanups, innovative plastic upcycling programs, and essential environmental education. Sustainable Practices from Vine to Bottle: Souleil’s commitment to the planet runs deep. They’ve integrated sustainable practices into every step of their production process. From the organically farmed grapes, certified by ECOCERT, ensuring the health of the land, to their thoughtful packaging choices – recyclable materials, including recycled paper labels – and the use of lightweight glass bottles to minimize their carbon footprint, sustainability isn’t just an afterthought; it’s a core principle. Ultimately, Souleil Vins de Bonté strives to be more than just a delightful taste of the Mediterranean sun. It’s a testament to the idea that businesses can be a force for good, embodying the vibrant spirit of the region while actively contributing to a healthier environment and fostering meaningful community engagement. So, uncork a bottle, savor the taste, and know that you’re part of something truly good.
Ribolla Per Cani To The Rescue!
Oh no, the dreaded Frito feet have struck! Fear not, fellow dog parent! It sounds like your furry friend has reached peak “Eau de Pew,” and a grooming appointment can’t come soon enough! But wait, what’s this? A superhero in a bottle? Ribolla Per Cani to the rescue! This isn’t just any old doggy perfume, oh no! This is a pet-friendly fragrance crafted with natural and safe ingredients, perfect for spritzing around your home or anywhere your adorable, albeit cheesy-smelling, companion hangs out. Side story – One fine morning in Verona, at VinItaly Luigi and I found ourselves deep in conversation, sharing the joys and quirks of our furry family members. Amidst the lively atmosphere and the tantalizing aromas of wine, Luigi then presented me with an exciting surprise: their latest scent release! In a special moment, he shared that this very day marked its official launch at the fair. Note- the charming wire-haired Dachshund that graces Collavini labels carries a heartwarming story, a tribute to founder Eugenio’s beloved companion, Ribolla Ribolla Per Cani is packed with essential oils that have been tested to be relaxing and refreshing – talk about a spa day in a bottle! And the best part? It’s got these delicate notes of Ribolla Gialla grape variety, making sure your pup smells delightful without overwhelming their super-sensitive nose. The verdict??? My very own Radar, the magnificent shepherd husky rescue, is one happy customer! Just look at that reaction! Although, bless Cocoa, my other rescue was too busy living her best playful life to pose for the paparazzi. We get it, Cocoa, smelling good and having fun go hand-in-paw!