Les Vieux Clos
𝓑𝓮𝓪𝓾𝓽𝔂 𝓲𝓼 𝓱𝓸𝔀 𝔂𝓸𝓾 𝓯𝓮𝓮𝓵 𝓲𝓷𝓼𝓲𝓭𝓮, 𝓪𝓷𝓭 𝓲𝓽 𝓻𝓮𝓯𝓵𝓮𝓬𝓽𝓼 𝓲𝓷 𝔂𝓸𝓾𝓻 𝓮𝔂𝓮𝓼. 𝓢𝓸𝓹𝓱𝓲𝓪 𝓛𝓸𝓻𝓮𝓷 The eyes are the window to one’s soul as are the wines from Nicolas Joly and his daughter Virginie, it’s a window into their essence, their beliefs and sincerity of terroir reflection. A passionate pioneer and Loire godfather of biodynamic wines (certified in 1985), this father and daughter team make 3 world class wines, all from Chenin Blanc of various aged vines and fermentation durations. This 3 hectare single-vineyeard Les Vieux Close comes from multiple hand harvesting passes of the 20-year-old vines planted on schist and quartz soils and aged for 8 months in neutral oak barrels. The yields are kept low on purpose to concontrate the flavors and quality of the wines. FACT: these vines go through the “sélection massale” whereby the cuttings are selected from the most prized vines in the vineyards to be replanted, dating back to the Middle Ages. 𝗡𝗶𝗰𝗼𝗹𝗮𝘀 𝗝𝗼𝗹𝘆 𝗦𝗮𝘃𝗲𝗻𝗻𝗶𝗲𝗿𝗲𝘀 𝗟𝗲𝘀 𝗩𝗶𝗲𝘂𝘅 𝗖𝗹𝗼𝘀 𝟮𝟬𝟭𝟴 Deeply hued golden hue thanks to it’s marvelous oxidative style. Superexpressive aromas of honeyed baked apple and candied pear, dried stone fruit, lemon peel, minerals, warm spices of ginger and nutmeg and dough. Slight prickly effect followed by mind blowing pronounced flavors of honeyed ginger, earthy minerality, almond blossom and lanolin. The searing acidity just cuts through it all and carried the gorgeous richness of this iconic wine to end on a sea salt like finish. It bristles with so much energy. It’s full bodied, balanced and exotic in its own right. Be prepared to be carried away by it’s precision and powerful beauty. Pair with your holiday meal or roasted monkish with lemon olive oil mashed potatoes.
Chaussons aux Pommes (Apple Turnovers)
1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed overnight in the fridge For the filling: 2 tsp. all-purpose flour 1/4 cup sugar 1/8 tsp. cinnamon a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 2 medium-sized apples, Macoun or Granny Smith, peeled, cored and cut into small pieces 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into tiny pieces 1 egg, beaten with a bit of water for the egg wash granulated sugar for dusting (optional) When you’re ready to make the turnovers, remove the dough from the fridge. Flour the work surface and roll it into a rectangle shape that is roughly 8 inches by 16 inches. Using a pizza wheel or knife, cut the dough in half long way and then into 4 squares, total 8 squares. Place the dough on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet, freeze for at least 20 minutes. Combine the flour, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg in a bowl. Add the apples and mix well to ensure the apples are completely coated. To assemble the turnovers: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Divide filling among the squares, placing a spoonful of filling just off center on each square and leaving a border of 1 inch around. Dot each filling with butter, then brush all of the sides with egg wash. Fold over the dough to form a triangle. Seal the edges with your fingers and then use the tines of a fork along the edges of the dough to further seal the turnovers. Once your turnovers are complete, brush each one with egg wash and sprinkle with a pinch of granulated sugar. Slide the sheet into the oven and immediately turn down the over to 350F. Bake the turnovers for 25-30 minutes until golden brown. If you can resist, let the turnovers cool slightly on a wire rack (for about 5 or 10 minutes) before eating them. Some fun wine pairings would be a Moscato D’Asti (which is sweet and full of fruit blossoms), a Jurançon Moelleux (Intensely honeyed late-harvest white wine), a Tawny Port (thanks to the caramel and my notes) or a mulled cider. Based on recipe from Dorie Greenspan – Baking Chez Moi
Dufaitre – Next Generation Beaujolais Winemakers
When I think of Beaujolais Nouveau, I think of FUN, the life of the party. It’s the type of wine that reminds me of young love, sweet and innocent, full of charm that you just cannot help but smile when you see it, are near it or get a taste of it. That is this wine. Husband and wife team Rémi and Laurence Dufaitre founded their domaine in 2006. They specialize in old vine Brouilly & Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais Villages and Villages Nouveau (from 39 different Northern Brouilly villages). From the new generation of Beaujolais winemakers, a student of Chauvet’s all natural winemaking and prodigy of Gang of Four Jean Foillard, Rémi Dufaitre is all organic, hand off approach, nature do your thing please. Rémi follows the traditional carbonic style, carefully sorted whole bunches, a touch of CO2 to protect the grapes at the beginning of fermentation. He tastes the wines regularly, ALL WINES ARE treated equally, like you would your children. From the Beaujolais Nouveau all the way up to his Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly Cru. This husband and wife team make wines that have a REAL Beaujolais with a sense of terroir. This particular wine was fermented in concrete and bottled immediately with a touch of sulfur to preserve it’s freshness as is typical of this style of Beaujolais. Dufaitre Beaujolais Nouveau Villages 2021 Domaine Laurence & Rémi Dufaitre This bright magenta colored Beaujolais has pretty aromas of freshly picked red and black field berries (strawberry, blueberry, blackberry and raspberry), violets, sweet spice and dried herbs. The bright aromas are accompanied by the fruity sour cherry bubblegum & banana (thanks to traditional carbonic maceration), minerality and finishes on a hum of cinnamon, nutmeg, anise & savory thyme bread dough. It has bright acidity and fine light tannins. It’s a juicy, aromatic wine that has crunchy character. This will pair beautifully with any holiday turkey dinner or as an apéro with charcuterie or just because you adore well made quaffable wine.
The Eye of Abito Malbec
Abito make wines that are approachable, ready to drink now with food, friends and family that will stimulate every sense. “Abito” in Italian means “suit” which represents a symbol of elegance and connotes our family. For Bodega Abito, the eye is the soul of the bottle, as the expression goes – look into someone’s eyes and you see their soul. This wine illuminates all of the 5 senses. Bodega Abito Malbec 2019 This Malbec is sourced from Barrancas, in the sub region of Maipu, Mendoza. It gives a softer structured Malbec that one grown at a higher altitude. Rich ruby color with the signature purple rim, ripe black fruits (blackberry, blueberry, plum), sweet baking spice and very soft oak influences thanks to 8 months of French oak ageing. It’s a medium bodied, softer tannin wine with riper fruit, currants and chocolate, sweet tobacco, cinnamon, cloves and licorice, finishes on a earthy savoriness that is carried by a lively acidity. This is a nice Malbec from Mendoza. Smooth, velvety and easy drinking. Pair with blue cheese topped sirloin steak or grilled peppers and mushroom burgers with aged cheddar.
Luna Small Lot Pinot Noir
Luna is a Roman goddess, a charmer, an enchantress, a lunar deity full of love and emotion. As we all know, the moon can stir up emotions in people and/or affect sleep patters. Shakespeare’s “Othello,” the maid Emilia tells Othello that the moon has drawn too close to the Earth and “driven men insane.” This winery couldn’t be more aptly name. It evokes emotion, you fall under it’s spell as I did. Luna Winemakers Reserve 2018 Santa Rita Hills, CASanta Rita Hills proximity to the ocean, consistent morning/evening fog, and steady afternoon winds make it perfectly suited to grow finicky Pinot Noir. Luna Vineyards is located along the Silverado Trail, a prime location to grow and pay tribute to the varietals that set Napa Valley apart.Award-winning winemaker Shawna Miller is fiercely dedicated to the production of premium wines through organic farming, hand picking and multiple sorting techniques complemented with natural yeast, minimal intervention, extended maceration to yield bar none results. This wine went through whole cluster fermentation. Aged in 100% neutral oak for 12 months which balances the expression of the tart red fruit and lively acidity. This wine begins with strawberry rhubarb compote, dried flowers, pomegranate and glides into forest floor. The fresh lively acidity carries the soft tannins and rich bramble berry, black tea and a hint of cocoa. It’s lush and complex. An attestation to the winemaker who can make such a balanced wine all around, especially at 14.7% abv. This is such a sexy wine, there are no other words for it except sexy. I was truly enchanted by this goddess of a wine. For all of you sexy wine lovers (and Pinot-philes at that), stop what you are doing and get some. Paired with smoked warm spice bone-in pork loin and roasted root vegetables.
Domaine Lapierre Morgon
“You make me shiver with the fire you got” Shivers by Ed Sheeran Have you ever been so excited by a wine that it left you with shivers of anticipation? That is Domaine Lapierre wines, every single time. The legacy and legend Marcel Lapierre lives on thanks to his children’s (Mathieu & Camille) dedication to the vision of making wines their way, bucking any trends that exist. Their vision of natural farming and winemaking… yes that’s right, natural from beginning to end, that means organic & biodynamic farming, manual harvesting and sorting, no additives ( including sulfites), unfiltered, indigenous yeasts, no SO2, you name it. Domaine M&C Lapierre – Morgon 2019 Morgon, Beaujolais, France This particular wine is from 10 hectares of 70 years old average aged vines on granite and gravel soils which have undergone whole cluster (semi-carbonic) low temperature fermentation for ten to twenty days. The glistening ruby jeweled color with a violet rim seduces your eyes. My heart flutters at what’s to follow – the fresh aromas of cherry, red plum, blueberry, violets and rose petals intermixed with a delicate funky earthiness and minerals. But wait, it doesn’t end there, the first sip of this iconic wine left me with shivers that lingered just as long as the lengthy finish….the zesty acidity just sings and holds the soft creamy tannins hands along the way. The vibrant fruit greets your palate first followed by the floral notes, into a savory blood orange zest, earthy funk minerality and raisin, cinnamon, mint and licorice finish. This wine has such complexity, charm and personality. This wine is undoubtedly the outcome of a great love. Thank you to winemakers like the Lapierre family and others for their dedication and passion to their craft. Pair with Panko Crusted Chicken cutlets with braised leeks and herbs, grilled pork sausages with roasted beets, French Flageolet Beans and arugula cranberry salad. The acidity, freshness and low tannins make Gamay such a versatile match.
Lichen Moonglow Pinot Noir
ᴀᴅᴠɪᴄᴇ ꜰʀᴏᴍ ᴛʜᴇ ᴍᴏᴏɴ: ʟɪᴠᴇ ʟɪꜰᴇ ᴛᴏ ᴛʜᴇ ꜰᴜʟʟᴇꜱᴛ….so very true when it comes to these winemakers and their wines.Winemakers Douglas and Ana Lucia Stewart left Napa in pursuit of making wines their way. They purchased a 150 year old 203 acre sheep ranch, and planted 7 acres of organically farmed Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris vines in the heart of Anderson Valley. They named the farm “Lichen Estate” in honor of the green forest plant found throughout the winery. Moonglow is all about purity, elegance and grace. Lichen Estate Moonglow 2018 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, CA 14.2% Pours into the glass a glistening pale ruby color with a garnet tinge rim. Aromas of lush cherry, pomegranate and cranberry bounces out of the glass with brown sugar, baking spices and toasty oak goodness. I’m salivating at the thought….. Plush is the word that comes to mind at the first sip. This Pinot fills your mouth with silky tannins and bright acidity. It’s a fruit driven wine that dances into the oak influence of vanilla, cloves, nutmeg & milk chocolate (22 months in both French and Hungarian oak) and finishes on a savory rhubarb mushroom earthiness. I paired this wine with roasted dijon chive salmon filets with roasted cauliflower and potatoes.
Champagne Alexandre Filiane
Elegance is when the inside is as beautiful as the outside – Coco Chanel There are no truer words when it comes to Fabrice Gass’s champagnes. After his successful career at Bollinger, he decided to branch out on his own and produce limited quantity Pinot Noir dominant grower champagne in the purest form possible. Sure, easy peasy LOL This started as a fun project, as wines are meant to be shared with family and friends. He named the domaine after his beloved grandparents, Alexamndre & Filiane. He works these tiny parcels totaling under 1.5 hectares all by hand and organically farmed. EVERYTHING is done by hand – hand riddling, hand disgorged and dosage “fait à la main.” Which for those who know most use machine/technology to do all of the above. It’s labour intensive and expensive. But that should tell you right there how much Alexandre cares about his wines. Minimal intervention, indigenous yeasts, no filtration. Fabrice embraces centuries old traditions, shuns stainless steel in favor of 100 year old barrels for ageing and fermentation (inherited from Bollinger dating back to 1937), with painstaking effort and immaculate craftsmanship. He believes in the region’s history and wants the natural acidity to make a statement – these are dynamic wines. Champagne Alexandre Filaine – Cuvee Spéciale Brut Vallée De La Marne, Champagne 3,000 bottles made The ‘Cuvée Spéciale’ is sourced from the 2009 and 2010 vintages from his 1er Cru Damery parcels, blended together, then aged in bottle for at least five years. This Cuvee is a blend 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 25% Meunier with 20% reserve wines. Powerful notes of meyer lemon, lime, freshly baked baguette, white blossom, caramel, baked apple, spice, earthiness and incredible minerality. This bubbly has pure flinty, chalky flavors, dynamically dry (5g/L dosage) and gorgeous persistent bubbly goodness with a snappy acidity. It’s a pleasure to drink in a very classical style. It’s compelling and graceful that leaves you wanting more. Paired with assorted shellfish platter, sushi, panko crusted crab cakes or on it’s own throughout the evening.
Sunset Savoie Wine
A sunset state of mind calls for something electric, wild and delicious. I decided to journey over to the picturesque, steep mountainous region of Jura, France. Fact: Trousseau originates from the Jura region of northeastern France, but it is also grown in Portugal (aka Bastardo) for their fortified wines, Port and Madeira. 🇫🇷 Domaine Rolet Trousseau 2018 Arbois AOC, Jura, France A well respected family business who create quality, pure wines through organic and sustainable practices that continue into the winery. This wine is made from 40+ year old vines with indigenous yeast and whole cluster fermentation aged in foudres. 🍷 Everything about the aromas are fresh – fresh red and dark forest fruits, tangerine, fresh cut purple flowers and freshly chopped wood. 🍷It has an untamed quality to it bursting with flavors of dark berries of blackberry, wild strawberry, cherry and raspberry, lilac, fresh pine, savory blood orange peel and finishes on black pepper and mint. The fine tannins are harmony with the buzzing acid that lingers. 🍷🍷 Its an acid driven wine that is so food friendly and an abv of 13%, it’s very easy drinking. Pair with a wild mushroom pâté, Comté cheese quiche, sausage stew or smoked duck breast with warm 5 spice. The beauty of this wine and the incredible sunset that all melded together into one beautiful moment…
Saumur Gem Arnaud Lambert
𝒪𝒽, 𝓈𝓊𝒸𝒽 𝒶𝒷𝓊𝓃𝒹𝒶𝓃𝒸𝑒 𝒽𝑒𝓇𝑒 𝒾𝓈 𝓋𝒾𝑒𝓌𝑒𝒹, 𝒲𝒽𝑒𝓃 𝒶𝓁𝓁 𝒽𝒶𝓈 𝓇𝑒𝒶𝒸𝒽𝑒𝒹 𝓂𝒶𝓉𝓊𝓇𝒾𝓉𝓎, 𝒜 𝓇𝒾𝒸𝒽 𝒶𝓃𝒹 𝓈𝓅𝑒𝓃𝒹𝒾𝒹 𝓈𝒾𝑔𝒽𝓉 𝒶𝒸𝒸𝓇𝓊𝑒𝒹 𝐵𝓎 𝓃𝒶𝓉𝓊𝓇𝑒, 𝒽𝑒𝓇𝑒 𝒾𝓃 𝒾𝓉𝓈 𝓅𝓊𝓇𝒾𝓉𝓎. 𝒷𝓎: 𝐸𝓇𝓃𝑒𝓈𝓉𝒾𝓃𝑒 𝒩𝑜𝓇𝓉𝒽𝑜𝓋𝑒𝓇 ʟᴇᴛ ᴛʜᴇ ᴛᴇʀʀᴏɪʀ ᴛᴏ ᴅᴇꜰɪɴᴇ ᴛʜᴇ ᴡɪɴᴇ. That is Arnaud Lambert’s philosophy. Arnaud Lambert’s wines have style and grace. His winemaking techniques are striped down to the basics, elemental, wines that have a presence, character and verve. He doesn’t want anything to affect the character of what nature created. Arnaud Lambert ‘Clos Mazurique’ Brézé, 2019 Saumur AOC, Loire, France 100% Cabernet Franc Domaine Arnaud Lambert was a merger of 2 domaines in 2017 – Domaine de Saint-Just (started by his father in the 1990s) and historical Saumur estate whose enviable collection of vineyards (and historically used to exchange their wines for the renowned Château d’Yquem for their unctuous desert wines. They make wines from the regions of Saint Cyr en Bourg, Brézé and Montsoreau. The wines are electric with the limestone soils. He is a staunch NO SULFITES in the vilification and ageing process. This 3.7 hectare clos of 40 year old vines (which is a walled single vinyeard”) is biodynamic & organic, minimal intervention winemaking. This wine is 100% destemmed and partial whole bunch fermentation with indigenous yeast with a gentle maceration in concrete and stainless steel. A daily single pump during its short fermentation encourages its acidity to shine even more. The end result is a very expressive, perfumed and juicy fruit, easy early drinking style of Cabernet Franc. Its fresh, light and lovely, soft light tannins, super attractive and so quaffable. Note: Brézé is a gorgeous little village nestled in Saumur. It has a unique micro-climate with martime influence, a cool climate, signature tuffeau (limestone) of the region with a mix of clay and sand topsoils. The region produces intensely mineral Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Pours into the glass a jeweled ruby color with a purple rim. Swirl and the perfumed aromas of fresh red and dark cherry, tart raspberry, mulberry, red plum meet the signature bell pepper, floral and graphite and wet earthy undertones. Sip and the crisp acidity is first to greet you. A medium bodied wine with flavors of tart red berries (raspberry & strawberry cranberry), bell pepper, graphite pencil lead, wet stone, earthy dirt, violets and roses and finishes lingeringly on red chili flakesviolet barnyard(very slight) Medium+ acid medium bodied, so smooth and well balanced finishes on mint and licorice It has such a charm and refinement to it for all of you Cabernet Franc lovers out there. This is a must seek out and great QPR ($23). Refined, focus with an electric current to them, they are alive and have substance. Pairs with fresh tomato & fried sage with grilled polenta, roasted mushrooms with farro – Savory dish or pepper crusted sirloin steak with roasted peppers