Casale del Giglio-Ancient Grapes & the Wines That Rewrote a Region
After days immersed in the volcanic soul of Campania, the road shifted north toward Lazio. And suddenly, the story changed again. The landscape softened. The air carried more Mediterranean warmth. The wines became broader, saltier, sunlit in a different way. But what I did not expect was just how revolutionary Casale del Giglio would feel. Because this is not simply a winery. It is one of the estates that fundamentally changed the conversation around modern Lazio wine. Lazio Beyond Rome For decades, Lazio lived quietly in the shadow of Italy’s more celebrated wine regions. People thought of Rome. Not fine wine. Yet south of the city, in the Agro Pontino near Latina, the Santarelli family saw something entirely different: untouched potential. When Antonio Santarelli’s father began seriously exploring the territory, the region had very little established viticultural identity compared to the rest of Italy. Rather than following tradition blindly, the family approached the land almost like a scientific experiment — studying which grape varieties truly belonged in this warm coastal microclimate, 65 to be exact. Dozens of varieties were planted and observed over years of trial, adjustment and experimentation. It was not about copying Tuscany or Piedmont. It was about discovering what Lazio itself could become. That philosophy still defines Casale del Giglio today. And honestly, tasting through the wines felt like watching a region slowly uncover its own identity. The Wines of Agro Pontino: Sunlight & Salinity Our tasting opened with Elaine and Linda as our guides through a carefully selected lineup. The Agro Pontino differs dramatically from Campania. Here, the Mediterranean defines everything. Sea breezes preserve freshness. Sandy and calcareous soils create salinity. Warm days ripen the fruit generously without sacrificing acidity. The wines feel expansive yet lifted. There is brightness. Texture. Maritime energy. The Satrico 2025 — blending Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano — carried aromatic ripeness balanced by mineral freshness. Ripe fruit without heaviness. Polished yet energetic. Then came the Viognier 2025. And this was not the oily, overblown Viognier many people expect. Instead: maritime salinity, freshness, yellow fruit ripeness, but remarkably restrained. The Petit Manseng 2025 followed with herbal lift and freshness, showing how naturally certain international varieties have adapted to this coastal environment. But then the tasting shifted toward Lazio’s indigenous soul. And this is where Casale del Giglio became truly fascinating. Bellone: The Ancient Grape of the Sea Bellone may be one of Italy’s most underrated white grapes. The Romans once referred to it as Uva Pantastica — a grape deeply connected to Lazio’s ancient agricultural history. At Casale del Giglio, Bellone becomes something entirely profound. The Anthium Bellone 2025 comes from old ungrafted vines planted in sandy soils near the Mediterranean coast, where constant sea breezes shape the grape’s naturally saline character. And you could feel the sea immediately. Green citrus. White florals. Delicate tropical fruit. Grapefruit tension. High acidity despite the warmth. At 14% alcohol, it somehow remained completely balanced and alive. Antonio explained that Bellone truly thrives when grown close to the coast. Honestly, after tasting it, I understood exactly what he meant. Then came Radix Bellone 2020. And suddenly Bellone transformed entirely. Creamy texture. Ripe yellow fruit. Mineral breadth. Almost Chardonnay-like complexity. Yet underneath it all remained unmistakable Lazio salinity. The wine spends years evolving through old wood and amphora before release, gaining remarkable texture and depth without losing freshness. The name Radix means “roots.” And that felt appropriate. Because this wine seemed connected not just to terroir, but to history itself. The Island Wines of Ponza Then came one of the day’s biggest surprises: Faro della Guardia Biancolella 2025. The grapes are grown on the island of Ponza, where steep vineyards cling dramatically to cliffs overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. And the wine tasted exactly like that landscape. Salty. Wind-swept. Raw. Yellow fruit and white flowers carried by smoky herbal minerality and intense maritime freshness. One sip felt like standing on a cliff above the Mediterranean. Cesanese: Lazio’s Quiet Red Soul Then the tasting turned toward red wines. And once again, Lazio revealed another personality entirely. Cesanese does not behave like Aglianico. Or Sangiovese. Or Nebbiolo. It feels softer. Earthier. More herbal. The Matidia Cesanese 2024 — sourced from volcanic limestone vineyards in the hills outside Rome — unfolded through graphite, dried herbs and savory earthiness wrapped around soft yet present tannins. There was restraint here. Subtlety. A wine whispering rather than shouting. Part of the grapes are lightly dried before fermentation, while aging in cherrywood tonneaux adds another layer of texture and spice. And honestly, it felt uniquely Lazio. The Bordeaux Varieties That Found a Home Casale del Giglio also proved something few expected decades ago: That Bordeaux varieties could thrive in Lazio. The 2019 Madreselva — named after the wild honeysuckle growing throughout the Agro Pontino countryside — blended Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot into something vibrant and savory rather than heavy. Ripe red berries. Crushed herbs. Lifted spice. But the flagship Mater Matuta 2019 was another level entirely. Mainly Syrah with Petit Verdot, the wine unfolded through dark berry fruit, coffee, menthol, anise and deep spice carried by remarkable structure and freshness. Powerful, yes. But polished. The wine takes its name from an ancient Italic fertility goddess once worshipped in the area surrounding the estate — another reminder of how deeply history runs through this land. And somehow the wine felt worthy of that mythology. Lunch at the Villa Then came lunch. And once again, Italy reminded me that wine is never meant to stand alone. Inside the historic villa, mezze maniche alla gricia arrived alongside Anthium Bellone, followed by spaghetti all’Amatriciana and local pecorino cheeses. Simple dishes. Perfect pairings. Long conversation. And that is when the wines opened even further. The salinity sharpened. The textures broadened. Everything became more complete. Because wines like these are not built for isolated tasting notes. They are built for tables. For stories. For connection. Why Casale del Giglio Matters What stayed with me most after leaving Casale
Campania Stories: Giorno 3-Coastal Fire, Ancient Wines & the Soul of Falerno
Giorno 3 — Caserta Villa Matilde Avallone • Fattoria Pagano By Day 3, Campania no longer felt like a region. It felt like a living conversation. Every subregion carried its own rhythm, its own accent, its own emotional temperature. After the mountain tension of Irpinia and the rustic soul of Sannio, the road led us toward Caserta — where volcanic soils meet sea air, where Falerno still echoes through history, and where hospitality arrives as naturally as wine at the table. The morning returned us to the pulse of Vega Palace for another day of focused tastings and exchange, this time centered around reds with a scattering of rosé. But it was the late afternoon that stayed with me most. Golden light. Warm air. Cellars beginning to quiet as evening approached. And producers leaning across the table to explain not just a wine, but a decision, a vintage, a piece of family history. Falerno del Massico: The Ancient Voice of Campania Long before Barolo, Brunello or Super Tuscans existed, there was Falerno. The legendary wine of ancient Rome. The wine of Caesar and Cleopatra. Produced along the volcanic slopes surrounding Monte Massico near the Tyrrhenian coast, Falerno del Massico remains one of Campania’s most historic appellations. But unlike the elevated freshness of Irpinia or the earthy rusticity of Sannio, the wines here carry something broader and warmer. Sun-warmed fruit. Salty minerality. Mediterranean herbs. Volcanic depth softened by sea breezes. The climate here changes everything. Warm coastal air ripens the fruit generously, while cold winds descending from the Apennines preserve freshness and tension. Combined with volcanic soils, the result is wines that feel simultaneously rich and lifted — structured yet deeply convivial. This was the world of Villa Matilde Avallone. Villa Matilde Avallone: Reviving the Wine of the Romans Villa Matilde is not simply a winery. It is an act of resurrection. Founded by Francesco Paolo Avallone, the estate spent over a decade researching and reviving the ancient terroir and varieties connected to Falerno del Massico. What began as a passion project eventually became one of Campania’s most important modern estates. Today the winery is guided by siblings Salvatore and Maria Avallone, continuing their father’s vision with deep emotional attachment to the land. And that emotion is impossible to miss. At one point during the tasting, Salvatore smiled and said: “We, the people from Campania, are completely crazy. We live our land. We want to communicate our passion through the wine.” And honestly, that sentence captured the entire visit. Emotion. People. Land. Everything here revolves around that connection. The tasting began with Falanghina. The 2024 carried fresh citrus, apple, pear and saline minerality — bright and coastal in feel. Then came the Mata 2015 Falanghina, and suddenly the conversation shifted entirely. Ten years old and completely alive. Ripe peach. Biscuit. Dough. Dried florals. A wine proving once again how beautifully Campanian whites evolve with time. Salvatore compared the grapes almost like iconic Italian women. The 2025 Fiano di Avellino? “Audrey Hepburn.” Elegant. Refined. Silky. The Greco? “Sophia Loren.” More character. More presence. A touch of rustic edge. And honestly, he was right. The Contrada 127 Greco 2022 — produced with amphora, as the estate has done since the 1960s — carried remarkable grip and minerality, like “a hand on your shoulder,” balancing freshness with texture and serious aging potential. Then came Carracci. And this is where Villa Matilde truly revealed its soul. The 2020 Carracci Falerno del Massico single vineyard unfolded through honeyed dried stone fruit, herbs, salinity and lemon curd wrapped around subtle tannic grip. The 2008 broadened even further into caramel, dried grapefruit and toasted nuts while still retaining freshness. These wines felt ancient somehow. Meditative. Completely tied to place. The reds carried the warmth of the coast but never lost their freshness. The 2025 Roccamonfina Piedirosso was pure glou-glou energy — crunchy red fruit, bright acidity and white pepper spice. The 2020 Falerno del Massico Rosso — 80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso — felt closest to Salvatore’s heart. He described it as the wine that “communicates the voice of the land.” And it did exactly that. Savory. Volcanic. Layered with spice and lifted fruit. The Taurasi wines brought more structure and smoke, while Cecubo 2018 — blending Primitivo, Aglianico and Piedirosso — moved into darker, richer territory without losing Campania’s signature freshness. What struck me most was how clearly Caserta differentiated itself from the previous days. The wines here carried sunlight inside them. Fattoria Pagano: Drink the Terroir As evening deepened, we continued toward Fattoria Pagano. And suddenly everything became even more intimate. Founded in 2001 by Antonio Pagano, the organic estate stretches across roughly 24 hectares, with vineyards both in Falerno del Massico and Irpinia. The philosophy here is simple: “Drink the terroir.” Nothing polished for international style. Nothing overworked. Just wines tied honestly to volcanic soils, hand harvesting and the rhythm of Campanian hospitality. Antonio and Angelo welcomed us alongside tables already filling with local dishes and buffalo mozzarella made by Antonio’s uncle — firmer in texture than most mozzarella di bufala, originating from nearby Casedici. And once again, the food and wines became inseparable. The evening began with a 120-day Charmat sparkling blend of Greco and Falanghina — biscuit notes, fine bubbles and remarkable freshness. The labels themselves carried stories too, decorated with musical instruments representing the musicians who once gathered here. Even the rosé held personal meaning, dedicated to Antonio’s mother Rosa: 40% Aglianico, 40% Piedirosso and 20% Merlot carrying bright fruit and unmistakable volcanic minerality. The whites leaned generous yet precise. The Falanghina 2025 shimmered with bright minerality, while the late-harvest Falanghina carried rounder floral concentration. The Greco 2025 moved beautifully from tropical softness into rising minerality, while the Fabula Falerno del Massico Bianca 2025 showed serious elegance and structure. Then came the reds. The Piedirosso 2023 carried smoky violets, savory earth and elegant ripeness. The Aglianico bottlings balanced fruit intensity with remarkably soft tannins. But the standout was Gaurasi Falerno del Massico
Campania Stories: Giorno 2 Rustic Soul, Mountain Power & the Wines of Sannio
Giorno 2 — Benevento: Sannio & Aglianico del Taburno Terre Stregate • Fontevecchia By Day 2, Campania had already begun to reveal its rhythm. Not polished. Not predictable. But deeply alive. The morning began with Campania Stories tastings focused on sparkling wines and whites — glasses filled with Falanghina, Fiano and Greco carrying the tension of volcanic soils and mountain air. Yet as we moved deeper into Benevento and the hills surrounding Taburno, the mood shifted once again. Rustic charm replaced coastal energy. The wines became earthier. More grounded. More quietly powerful. This was Sannio. A vast inland area surrounding Benevento that has quietly become one of southern Italy’s most important wine-producing zones. Unlike the dramatic volcanic landscapes of Campi Flegrei or the elevated mountain tension of Irpinia, Sannio feels warmer, softer and more agricultural — rolling hills, olive groves, grain fields and vineyards woven together across the countryside. And the wines reflect that generosity. Falanghina from Sannio tends to be rounder and more approachable than the sharper, saline expressions from Campi Flegrei. The fruit becomes riper, the texture broader, while still maintaining freshness thanks to altitude and limestone-rich soils. Then there is Taburno. Centered around Mount Taburno itself, Aglianico del Taburno carries a different personality from Taurasi. While Taurasi often leans toward darker structure, tension and austere longevity, Taburno tends to show more immediate savory charm — earthy spice, softer tannins and a slightly more approachable elegance in youth while still retaining the ability to age beautifully. This was Sannio. A place where Falanghina feels less polished and more rooted. Where Aglianico trades sheer force for savory depth and drinkability. Where food, wine and history still feel inseparable from everyday life. Terre Stregate: The Land of Witches The name alone tells you this is not an ordinary place. Terre Stregate — “Land of the Witches” — sits at roughly 400 metres above sea level in the Benevento valley, surrounded by calcareous stone soils touched by volcanic influence drifting inland from Vesuvius. The symbol of the estate — moon, sun and eye — represents protection, an echo of the folklore and ancient legends woven throughout this part of Campania. Benevento has long been associated with stories of witches gathering beneath walnut trees, casting spells carried by the wind through the valley. And honestly, standing there among the vines, it does feel slightly enchanted. The estate is led by Filomena Iacobucci and her brother, fifth-generation custodians of a family deeply rooted in Sannio agriculture. Today they farm roughly 25 hectares of vines alongside four hectares of olive groves, using the olive leaves themselves as mulch to nourish the vineyard soils naturally. Everything here feels connected to the land. Filomena explained that Falanghina remains the beating heart of the estate, accounting for roughly 65% of production. Their goal is not simply to make Falanghina, but to tell the story of where Falanghina was born — through multiple styles and expressions. And the tasting revealed exactly that. The Caledonio Brut Falanghina DOC opened the morning with freshness and roundness, carrying vibrant citrus and soft orchard fruit wrapped in delicate mousse. Then came the Genius Loci Fiano Sannio DOP 2025 — fresh peach, light on its feet, yet quietly full of character and salinity. The Aurora Greco 2025 followed with round stone fruit and softness, its label inspired by the estate’s new cellar building rising from the hills. But the wines became increasingly compelling as depth and texture entered the conversation. The Svelato Falanghina del Sannio DOP, aged six months on lees, carried savory breadth and mineral tension, while the Caracara 2020 Late Harvest unfolded through caramel, stone fruit compote, lemon curd and toasted nuts. Rich. Layered. Yet still alive with freshness. The rosé, Attimo 2025, brought the mood back toward brightness — cherry, violet, raspberry leaf and mineral lift wrapped into something playful yet beautifully balanced. Then came Aglianico. The Idillio 2025 IGP Benevento carried bright cherry, tea leaf, earth and violets with soft tannins and spice, while the Manent 2023 — vinified partly in barrel and partly in stainless steel — balanced fresh cherry fruit with earthy structure, dark chocolate and fine acidity. Filomena explained the meaning behind the name: “Everything written stays forever.” And that sentiment lingered long after the glass was empty. The Arcano 2020 Riserva — “deep secret” — moved further into savory territory with leather, dried violets, clove and earthy spice wrapped around remarkably fine tannins. Then came Costa del Duca Late Harvest 2018, full of juicy cherry, leather and earthy depth, before the tasting closed with the Malaca Passito. Dried stone fruit. Toffee. Caramel. Christmas spice. A wine built for slow endings and long conversations. At Terre Stregate, wine feels inseparable from story. From folklore. From family. From land. And perhaps that is what made the visit so memorable. Nothing felt manufactured. Only deeply, proudly Campanian. Fontevecchia: Quiet Confidence Beneath Mount Taburno As evening approached, we continued deeper into Taburno toward Fontevecchia. If Terre Stregate felt folkloric and expressive, Fontevecchia carried a quieter kind of confidence. Rustic stone walls. Old cellars. A sense of time moving slowly. The estate, now over 150 years old, welcomed us with warmth from Libero, Lucio and the next generation already quietly stepping into the story. Here, the philosophy is simple: Pay attention to the soil, not the winemaking. And everything at Fontevecchia revolves around Mount Taburno itself. The vineyards surrounding the mountain produce Falanghina del Sannio and Aglianico del Taburno shaped by varied soils — clay and limestone, volcanic zones and tufaceous pockets — now carefully separated under oenologist Emiliano Falsini, who joined the estate in 2020. The wines are divided according to soil type: C for clay and limestone. F for tuff. B for volcanic soils. Precision without losing identity. Lucio explained how the Aglianico clones in Taburno naturally differ from Taurasi, producing smaller, less compact bunches better suited to the warmer conditions. Macerations are handled more gently here — more infusion than extraction — creating wines of elegance
Campania Stories: Initial Sips — Campi Flegrei & Irpinia
Campania Stories: Volcanic Soul, Mountain Tension & the Wines That Refuse to Be Forgotten Giorno 0 to 1— Campi Flegrei & Irpinia Salvatore Martusciello • Tenuta Cavalier Pepe • Donnachiara Campania does not ease you in gently. It grabs hold of your senses immediately — volcanic smoke in the air, salty Mediterranean breezes, mountain tension in the wines and conversations that stretch long past the final glass. This is not a region of quiet wines. Or quiet people. Campania Stories began the moment the plane touched down in Naples, where Salvatore and Gilda welcomed us not with formality, but with the warmth that instantly turns travel into something personal. Within moments, we were standing at the Solfatara crater in Campi Flegrei, surrounded by black volcanic earth and steam rising from the ground beneath our feet. And suddenly, everything made sense. This is where the wines begin. Not in the cellar. Not in the glass. But in the tension between volcano and sea. Salvatore Martusciello: Wines With Salt in Their Veins At the Salvatore Martusciello winery in Pozzuoli, the family’s role in shaping Campi Flegrei became immediately clear. Salvatore’s father helped establish the DOC in the 1990s, while his uncle Genaro identified Falanghina clones and created what remains one of the region’s defining viticultural references. The vineyards themselves feel wild and alive — ancient Alberata pergolas climbing skyward, wild chamomile lining the rows and some vines still untouched by phylloxera. And you can taste that energy in every glass. The wines moved between electric freshness and volcanic depth: Asprinio bursting with citrus and razor acidity; Falanghina layered with crushed stone, salinity and smoky aged complexity; Piedirosso vibrant with red fruit and coastal freshness. Then came OttoUvo Frizzante Gragnano — fizzy, joyful and unapologetically Neapolitan. “The most beloved iconic wine of the Neapolitan people,” Salvatore called it with a smile. At one point, I asked him what his favorite vintage was. “The next one.” That answer captured the spirit of Campania perfectly. No chasing trends. No imitation. Just wines deeply rooted in place and identity. Dinner among the tanks with Gilda’s homemade timbalo di Nerano, the buffalo mozzarella alongside the estate’s rustic cuisine, grounding the wines even further into place and tradition, the warm sfogliatella transformed the tasting into something even more personal. The wines opened further around the table, revealing Campania not simply as a wine region, but as a way of living. Into the Mountains: Tenuta Cavalier Pepe The following morning, the landscape shifted dramatically as we climbed into Irpinia. More altitude. More silence. More tension. Tenuta Cavalier Pepe unfolded across steep hillsides where cool nights preserve freshness and precision in every grape. Walking the vineyards with Milena Pepe, it became clear that everything here is built around stewardship — hand harvesting, massale selection and allowing the land itself to shape the wines. Milena structured the tasting vertically, revealing how beautifully Irpinia’s wines evolve with time. The Fiano di Avellino wines moved from fresh acacia and citrus into layers of roasted nuts, petrol, honey and salted depth with age. The older vintages carried remarkable energy and proved exactly why Fiano deserves to stand among Italy’s greatest white wines. The Greco di Tufo Riserva wines showed a sharper, more volcanic personality — smoky, savory and intensely mineral. Then came Taurasi. Young vintages carried vivid cherry and chalky tannins, while older bottles unfolded into leather, dried herbs, licorice and savory complexity. The 2011 La Loggia di Cavaliere Taurasi Riserva lingered long after the final sip — dried cherry, violets, leather and fine tannins stretched endlessly across the palate. Hauntingly beautiful. Throughout the tasting, one thing remained constant: Minerality and sapidity slicing through the wines, making you crave food immediately. These are wines built for long lunches, slow conversations and crowded tables. Turn the Page: Donnachiara Irpinia has a way of slowing you down. After the volcanic intensity of Campi Flegrei, arriving at Donnachiara in Montefalcione felt quieter, more introspective somehow. Perched at 400 metres above sea level, surrounded by chunky clay and fractured rock soils, Donnachiara has become one of the defining modern voices of Irpinia through organic farming, native varieties and wines rooted deeply in place. Named after Ilaria Petitto’s great-grandmother, the winery feels deeply personal from the moment you arrive. Ilaria describes her wines simply: “Elegant. Not banal. Wines that need time to show themselves.” That philosophy is everywhere here. Nothing is loud. Nothing is rushed. The wines unfold slowly and confidently, much like Irpinia itself. Alongside winemaker Marco Giulioli, Donnachiara vinifies entirely in stainless steel, allowing the purity of the terroir to remain untouched. The Fiano wines were mesmerizing — moving from fresh pear and white florals in youth into chamomile, honey, petrol, dried herbs and smoky complexity with age. The older Esoterica vintages carried extraordinary tension and depth, proving just how beautifully Fiano can evolve over time. The Greco wines leaned more volcanic and structured, layering smoke, spice, dried herbs and electric acidity into wines that demanded attention rather than easy charm. Then came Taurasi — elegant rather than overpowering, focused on finesse and purity of fruit rather than sheer weight. The older vintages unfolded into leather, balsamic herbs and lifted savory complexity, while the 2006 stood out for its remarkable elegance and freshness. What stayed with me most after this first day of Campania Stories was not simply the quality of the wines. It was the connection between landscape, people and glass. From the volcanic soul of Campi Flegrei to the mountain tension of Irpinia, every wine carried the unmistakable fingerprint of Campania itself. The afternoon shifted gears to the Reggia di Caserta: marble corridors, gardens unfolding like a map of the region, then the Sala Romanelli filling with voices at the opening conference. Over a light dinner curated by the Consorzio VITICA, introductions deepened into plans — collaborations forming as easily as smiles. And this was only Giorno 0-1! Day 2 would take us even deeper into the soul of southern Italy.
Ferrari Trento: Vertical Freshness & The Italian Art of Living
There are wineries you visit to taste wine—and then there are those that make you feel something deeper. At Ferrari Trento, it’s never just about what’s in the glass—it’s about how you experience it. From the moment I arrived, guided through the estate by Jacopo and Anna Chiara, I sensed it immediately. This was not a standard visit, but an invitation into a rhythm—one defined by elegance, harmony, and quiet intention. Nothing feels forced. Nothing feels overdone.Everything feels considered. And as the day unfolded, one truth became clear: every bottle here carries its own story. Where precision meets feeling Set in the mountains of Trentino, with vineyards reaching up to 750 meters, Ferrari’s identity begins with altitude. You feel it not just in the air, but eventually in the glass. Chardonnay is the foundation, representing the majority of production, while Pinot Noir adds depth and structure, particularly in rosé and Blanc de Noirs expressions. Everything begins with care. The harvest is entirely by hand, followed by immediate cooling to 12°C to preserve aromatic purity. From there, time becomes the defining element—not a constraint, but a tool. Aging is deliberate and varied, from a few years to over a decade, allowing each wine to develop its intended expression while maintaining a remarkable sense of lift. This balance—between energy and depth—is what Cyril Brun, cellar master later describes as: “Vertical freshness.” And underpinning it all is a philosophy of restraint: “The best correction is the one you never have to make.” Into the cellars: where time is shaped Before the tasting, we moved into the cellars—and the pace shifted. Cool, quiet, almost meditative, it’s a space that invites you to slow down. Rows of bottles rest in perfect order, each evolving at its own pace. Then the riddling. Three specialists, working entirely by hand, turn upwards of thirty-five thousand of bottles each day. The movement is rhythmic, precise, almost hypnotic. It’s a reminder that even at scale, Ferrari preserves the human touch where it matters most. And then—the family library. The bottles in the family library dating back to 1972 and beyond are not reserved for special occasions, but serve as a living reference for the winemaking team—an archive of decades of knowledge used to guide decisions and navigate both present and future challenges. Standing there, you begin to understand: Ferrari is not just producing wine for the present—it is thinking in decades. Villa Margon: where time stands still If the cellars reveal time in motion, Villa Margon reveals time preserved. Guided by Camilla Lunelli, the visit felt deeply personal—less a tour, more an invitation into the family’s history. The villa’s 16th-century frescoes remain entirely original. Not restored, not altered—preserved simply by its location, tucked away from the main paths of history. Over centuries, it was never disturbed. It simply remained. Walking through its rooms, there is a palpable stillness—a journey of continuity that is rare to experience. At one point, I asked quietly if it might be possible to see the private chapel. To my surprise, the answer was yes. Small, intimate, and still used for family mass, it offered a moment of quiet connection—something deeply human within the grandeur. A rare privilege, and one that stayed with me. A dream that reshaped Italian sparkling wine Ferrari’s story begins with Giulio Ferrari, a visionary who saw potential where others did not. After studying in Champagne, he recognized the unique conditions of Trentino—altitude, climate, and the ability to preserve acidity while achieving ripeness. He brought Chardonnay cuttings from Épernay and planted them here, convinced the region could produce wines of equal finesse. In 1902, Ferrari was born. “Everything can begin with a dream.” From just 700 bottles, the house quickly gained recognition, earning international awards within a few years. Remarkably, it remained untouched through World War II, preserving not only its structure but its vision. That vision was carried forward by Bruno Lunelli and continues today with the third generation of the Lunelli family—where tradition and evolution exist in balance. Meeting Cyril Brun: listening before leading When Cyril Brun joined Ferrari, his first instinct was not to change—but to understand. “For the first six months, I did nothing. I observed, I listened, I learned.” That approach speaks volumes. His role is not to redefine Ferrari, but to refine it—guided by a clear philosophy: “Verticality. Crystalline clarity. Purity… and Pleasure.” And it is within the tasting that these words come fully to life. The tasting: a progression in precision The tasting unfolds as a progression—each wine building on the last, moving from energy and brightness into depth and complexity. Chardonnay remains Ferrari’s central voice, but Pinot Noir is an increasingly important counterpoint. Brun described Ferrari’s identity as a duet between the two grapes. “That’s why you see black and white everywhere in Ferrari communication—it’s the duet between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” During our tasting, I asked Brun what he would be if he were not a winemaker. His answer came without hesitation: “I would be an orchestra conductor.” It is a perfect metaphor for the way he works. “Making wine is like conducting an orchestra. You have the small triangle, you have the big bass, and you have to deal with all those different voices.” That image lingers. It captures both his humility and his precision. A conductor does not impose sound from nothing. He shapes, balances, listens, and guides. That is exactly what Brun appears to be doing at Ferrari. What stayed with me What defines Ferrari is not what it tries to be—but what it chooses not to become. It does not chase power.It does not overstate itself. Instead, it focuses on precision, balance, and identity. Mountain freshness.Energy without excess.Complexity without weight. And through it all—a sense of ease. Final sip Ferrari Trento may have been inspired by Champagne—but it has become something entirely its own. A house shaped by altitude, defined by time, and guided by intention. And for me, this was more than a visit. It was an experience you feel—and one that stays with you. What Ferrari
Vinitaly 2026 — A Sparkling Tour of Italy’s Regions
Four days. 4,000 producers. 100,000 visitors. One place: Verona. Vinitaly 2026 wasn’t just a trade show — it was a heartbeat. Walking those halls felt like stepping into Italy’s vinous soul: a riot of aromas, a chorus of clinking glasses, and a thousand stories poured by the glass. This year I followed the bubbles…and what a journey. From the precision of Franciacorta to the alpine grace of Trentodoc, each sparkling told its own regional tale: With every sip my fascination with Italian sparkling wines deepened. The diversity is staggering — from method-driven classics to playful, irreverent frizzantes — and each bottle felt like a small map of its place. Regional deep dives — why these bubbles matter: FranciacortaFranciacorta is Italy’s answer to classic sparkling elegance. Metodo Classico is king here, with Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco aged long on lees. The limestone-rich soils and meticulous cellar work yield a creamy mousse, fine bead, and those savory, brioche autolytic notes. These wines combine Champagne-level finesse with Lombardy’s precision — textured, complex, and built for thoughtful sipping. TrentodocHigh altitude shapes Trentodoc’s personality. Vineyards on steep, cool Trentino slopes produce Metodo Classico wines—usually Chardonnay and Pinot Noir—with razor-fresh acidity, crystalline minerality, and an aromatic lift from cold nights. The result is tension and purity: serious, food-friendly sparklers with alpine clarity. Alta LangaAlta Langa is a rising star in Piedmont. Predominantly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, these Metodo Classico bottles come from higher, cooler hills, giving linear energy, red-fruited depth, and chalky structure. Alta Langa’s charm is its marriage of Piedmontese nuance (think subtle tannic structure and savory complexity) with classic sparkling technique. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco SuperioreHere the story is Glera plus place. Steep, terraced hills between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene yield Prosecco Superiore with exceptional aromatic lift, bright acidity, and surprising textural depth. Mostly made in the Charmat/autoclave method for freshness and florality, top sites (Rive, Cartizze) produce Proseccos with concentration and mineral texture that defy the stereotype of simple, one-note fizz. Light, vivacious, and endlessly sociable — but with real terroir-driven complexity at the top end. Asti SpumanteAsti’s signature is Moscato Bianco: intensely aromatic, floral, and perfumed. Usually produced in tank to preserve perfume and primary fruit, Asti Spumante ranges from gently sparkling to fully effervescent, often with residual sweetness balanced by zesty acidity. It’s a joyful, aromatic style that pairs beautifully with fruit desserts, spicy cuisines, or any celebratory moment that calls for buoyant charm. Lambrusco (styles and varieties)Lambrusco is many things across Modena and Reggio Emilia — lively, savory, and utterly food-friendly. Key varieties and styles: Emilia-Romagna (more than Lambrusco: Pignoletto DOCG, Spergola, and why)Emilia-Romagna’s sparkling story goes well beyond Lambrusco. Pignoletto DOCG delivers fresh, floral, citrus-driven wines often made as lively frizzante or refined Metodo Classico — crisp, elegant, and fantastically food-friendly. Spergola, an ancient native variety, has been revived into fragrant sparklers with crunchy orchard fruit, bright acidity, and saline tension. Alongside these, producers experiment with Metodo Classico and aromatic whites, showcasing a region that prizes approachability, vibrancy, and perfect pairing with its bold culinary tradition. LuganaLugana’s secret is Turbiana (Trebbiano di Lugana) and Lake Garda’s moderating influence. Sparkling Lugana (frizzante or spumante) emphasizes crystalline citrus, white flowers, and mineral nerve, often with saline lift and a savory core. The best examples balance freshness and weight — refined, seafood-ready bubbles with a strong sense of place. But Vinitaly is more than bottles on display. It’s conversations that stay with you. I spent time with passionate producers from Campania ( Terre Stregate and Villa Matilde Avallone), dug further into the identity of Vini Venezia, reunited with old friends, and made new ones. One standout moment: a warm, insightful interview with the effortlessly brilliant Chef Carlo Cracco — a reminder that food and wine here are inseparable threads in a cultural tapestry. Vinitaly’s overwhelmingly Italian spirit is its biggest strength. There’s an authenticity and intensity to the event — business, tastings, energy, movement — that you don’t just observe. You feel it in your bones. If you came away with tasting notes and business cards, great. If you left with stories, new friendships, and a renewed love for place-driven wine, even better. Who’s ready for 2027? I know I am. Raise a glass — and let the happy vines keep growing. 🥂✨
Virtually Celebrating 20 Harvests at Argentiera: A Journey into Bolgheri’s Coastal Soul
We recently sat down with Nicolò Carrara—who’s been part of the Argentiera family since 2009—to raise a glass to a milestone that feels quietly triumphant: their 20th harvest. You can still hear the awe in his voice when he talks about the place. “This is such a wonderful place to make wines and express the beauty of this place,” he told us, and that sentiment threads through everything at Argentiera: the land, the team, and the wines themselves. Argentiera sits in the heart of the Bolgheri DOC—just one kilometer from the Tyrrhenian Sea, with a protective forest hugging its back slopes. The vineyards step upward from flat coastal terrain to roughly 200 meters above sea level. That incline creates a patchwork of soils—sand, clay, limestone, schist—each plot offering a different voice. “We have treasures of different soils,” Nicolò told us, and you taste that variety across the range. The constant sea breeze is a silent collaborator: cooling, drying, and contributing a saline lift that keeps wines fresh and aromatic. It also makes organic and low-intervention practices more feasible. You don’t need to impose a heavy hand when the site gives you balance to begin with. People First: A Big Family with Deep Roots“What we are is a big family,” Nicolò said, smiling. Argentiera manages about 85 hectares and employs roughly 80 people—many of them long-tenured. That human continuity is more than folklore; it’s the practical foundation for consistency. Hands that know the exact timing for canopy work, the subtle indicators of vine stress, and the micro-variations in each row help produce grapes that are true to their plot year after year. There’s pride in those relationships, and it shows in how they talk about the vines. Conversations with the team are collaborative rather than hierarchical. That shared stewardship is part of why the wines feel steady, precise, and personal. Winemaking: Minimal Intervention, Maximum ListeningArgentiera’s cellar is the opposite of dogmatic. The guiding principle here is to listen—to the fruit, to the vintage, and to the character of each plot—and then choose the most suitable tools. “We don’t want a stamp of method,” Nicolò explained. “We want to be flexible as possible to express the beauty of this place.” What that looks like in practice: An Evolution, Not a RevolutionArgentiera’s style has shifted over the years. Early vintages leaned toward a Napa/Bordeaux-inspired profile, with more prominent new oak. The transition since 2012 has been gradual and intentional: less desire to stamp the wines with a universal house signature, more care in letting terroir and vintage dictate form. “We started with a certain idea,” Nicolò admitted, “and then we listened to the vineyards.” That listening extends to how they confront climate realities. Instead of fundamentally changing the blend or chasing riper, higher-alcohol profiles, their response has been precise vineyard management—canopy control, timing of harvest, and careful pick decisions. The payoff has been wines that maintain ripeness but with lower alcohols and fresher profiles. On top of that, they’re quietly experimenting with Mediterranean white varieties not yet authorized by the DOC—an adaptive, forward-looking move that underscores their pragmatic but curious spirit. Highlights from the 20th Harvest: Wines to Look ForWe tasted through the latest releases and came away impressed by how varied yet coherent the lineup feels—each wine reflecting a distinct plot and purpose. The Human Touch: Stories Behind the BottlesBeyond technique, what stood out in our conversation was how much Argentiera values storytelling through wine. Nicolò shared small moments—harvest mornings when the fog lifts off the sea, a team member pointing out a patch of old vines, the quiet satisfaction of a fermentation that unfolded exactly as hoped. These are the human details that make the wines feel lived-in rather than designed on a spreadsheet. There’s also humility. When speaking about experiments with new varieties or different vessels, Nicolò is pragmatic: “We try, and we listen. Sometimes it works, sometimes it teaches us more than success ever could.” That attitude—curious, unpretentious, and rooted in craft—shines in every bottle.Twenty harvests have given Argentiera the vocabulary to speak fluently about its place. The estate’s evolution isn’t a reinvention; it’s the slow honing of an approach that prioritizes site, people, and nuance over a fashionable house style. The wines from this milestone vintage range from immediate and joyous (Poggio ai Ginepri) to serious and contemplative (Villa Donoratico, Argentiera), with Scenario offering a refined white that captures the estate’s coastal freshness. If you visit—or taste these releases—you’ll feel the human thread: a team that cares deeply for the land, a winemaker who listens before he acts, and a place shaped by sea and forest. These are wines to enjoy now for their charm, and to cellar for the way they promise to evolve. For collectors and newcomers alike, Argentiera’s 20th harvest is a warm invitation to experience Bolgheri’s coastal soul—personal, precise, and undeniably expressive.
VinItaly By Night
Verona nights, Tuscan soul.During the Vinitaly marathon I was treated to two unforgettable evenings: a Big Bottle Social dinner hosted by Tenuta Sette Ponti at the frescoed Palazzo Verità Poeta, followed by an intimate industry gathering — Chianti Lovers & Rosso Morellino — at AMO Bistrot, hosted by IEEM USA. Both events fused impeccable wine, inspired food pairings, and that ineffable Italian energy. Palazzo Verità Poeta’s frescoed salons and ornate ceilings feel like stepping into a living masterpiece: once the urban residence of the Verità Poeta family, the palazzo evolved from Renaissance elegance to Baroque splendor and has been lovingly restored to host concerts, exhibitions and intimate private events. For Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Big Bottle Social Night the rooms shimmered under gilded cornices as giant bottles gleamed on illuminated plinths, while murmurs of conversation and the clink of glasses echoed through frescoed vaults—history and hedonism entwined, making every taste of wine feel like a discovery suspended in time. Hosts Antonio and Alberto Moretti Cuseri — father and son — presided with warm hospitality, embodying Tenuta Sette Ponti’s ethos of handmade luxury. Tenuta Sette Ponti (Valdarno di Sopra DOC) and Orma (Bolgheri) provided the backbone of the tasting, supported by their wider portfolio: Poggio al Lupo (Maremma) with bold, Mediterranean reds and coastal lift; Feudo Macarri (Noto, Sicily) delivering sun-soaked Nero d’Avola and expressive island whites; Animaetna (Etna, Sicily) offering mineral-driven, volcanic reds and crisp high-altitude whites; and the flagship Sette Ponti bottlings that balance power with finesse. Together the estates showcased the family’s terroir-driven range across Tuscany and Sicily. Big Bottle Tasting highlights: A night for Chianti lovers featuring wines from Chianti & Morellino, the evening was equally compelling through thoughtful, perfectly paired bites elevated every glass; bottles flowed, conversations buzzed, and the rooms pulsed with passion for Tuscan terroir. Tuscany stole the show — and Morellino was my happy star of the night. Chianti Classico (Sangiovese-led) ranges from fresh, floral giovane bottlings with cherry and tomato leaf brightness to more structured Classico and Superiore expressions that layer ripe red fruit, dried herbs, leather and savory spice over firmer tannins and brighter acidity; Riserva bottlings show extended oak and bottle aging, adding tobacco, cedar, earth and long, refined finishes ideal for roasted meats and aged cheeses. Rosso Morellino di Scansano, by contrast, leans toward the sun-warmed, coastal side of Sangiovese: exuberant bright red cherry, ripe plum, Mediterranean herbs and a plush, silky palate, often showing softer tannins and a juicy, fresh immediate appeal. Winemaking choices (shorter maceration, judicious oak or amphora) can push Morellino from bright and fruity to more textured, savory versions with spice and smoky nuances — which is exactly what made the Morellino at AMO Bistrot the night’s standout for me: fresh, vividly fruity, effortlessly drinkable yet complex enough to linger with every bite. Every pour told a story of sun-drenched vineyards, coastal breezes and generations of winemaking — if this is what Tuscany tastes like, I’m already planning my next glass.
Los Mujeres de la Montañas: Recipes & Memories from Our Wines of Argentina Adventure
There are trips that fill your glass, and then there are trips that fill your heart with lifelong sisters. Some journeys stay with you forever—not just because of the breathtaking landscapes or the world-class wines, but because of the women you share them with. In September 2025, a group of us embarked on a Wines of Argentina tour that took us deep into the foothills of the Andes. We laughed until our sides hurt, hiked until our legs ached, and toasted countless glasses of Malbec as the sun dipped behind snow-capped peaks. We called ourselves Los Mujeres de la Montañas—the Women of the Mountains. Strong, spirited, and bonded by a love for wine, food, and discovery. Along the way, I collected recipes from the gracious winemakers, chefs, and local families we met. Back home, I gathered them into a little private cookbook I titled Los Hermanas Cookbook—a tribute to the sisterhood we formed amid the vines. Today, I’m sharing these recipes with you as living memories. Each one carries the scent of grilled meats, the earthiness of fresh herbs from high-altitude gardens, and the warmth of women cooking together after long days in the vineyards. Pair them with a bold Argentine red (or a crisp Torrontés if you prefer white), and let the mountains come alive in your kitchen. Empanadas from the Heart of the Andes Treasured Recipes Shared with Pride by Los Mujeres de la Montañas Empanadas were the thread that connected so many of our days—passed around at bodega tastings, packed for picnic hikes, and made together in cozy kitchens. The wonderful ladies and winemakers we met were each so proud of their own version, sharing them with us in confidence as a gesture of friendship. Here they are, exactly as given to us. Terrasaz’s Beef Empanadas Shared by the warm team at Terrasaz, this onion-rich beauty reflects the generous, juicy style they’re known for in the region. Ingredients (Makes ~20 empanadas): Preparation: Notes: The high onion-to-beef ratio (2:1) creates a juicy, flavorful filling typical of Argentine empanadas. Soaking raisins in wine adds a subtle sweetness and depth—use a bold red like Malbec for authenticity. We made these one golden afternoon at Terrasaz, the high onion content filling the kitchen with the most incredible aroma as we laughed and folded dough together. Salentein’s Argentine Beef and Potato Empanadas The Salentein team shared this comforting, potato-enriched version—perfect for the mountain energy we needed after hikes. Use the same assembly, sealing, and cooking instructions as Terrasaz’s Beef Empanadas above (bake at 200°C/400°F or fry at 180°C/350°F). Ingredients (Makes ~15–18 empanadas): Notes: The potatoes add a starchy, comforting texture while aji molido brings mild, fruity heat. These became our favorite “after-hike” empanadas—sturdy and satisfying. The stirred egg creates a richer texture, while poached eggs keep it more traditional. Adjust seasoning to taste. Alejandro Sejanovich’s Pork Empanadas Alejandro generously shared this elegant, hand-chopped pork version with us—one of the most flavorful and aromatic we encountered. Follow the detailed filling preparation in your original notes (sauté dill and corn with broth first, cook pork separately, soften onions, combine everything with blanched potatoes and optional gelatin, then chill). Use the same assembly, sealing, and cooking instructions as Terrasaz’s (bake at 250°C/482°F for 20–25 minutes or fry at 170–180°C/340–350°F). Add a pinch of green onion tops, half an olive, and a slice of egg to each before sealing. Pair with a light Torrontés. Alejandro’s Argentine Cheese Empanadas The same generous spirit brought us this gooey, onion-and-cheese delight—perfect for a lighter moment. Ingredients (Makes ~12–15 empanadas): Preparation: Melt butter and cook the thinly sliced white onions until translucent and soft (about 10–15 minutes). Season with oregano, black pepper, and salt. Let cool completely. Combine cooled onions with the cubed Gouda and mozzarella in a large bowl. Mix gently. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Assemble and Cook: Follow the assembly instructions from Terrasaz’s Beef Empanadas, adding a pinch of chopped green onion tops and half a green olive to each. Pierce each empanada three times on top with a fork to allow steam to escape. Refrigerate until ready to cook. Bake at 250°C (482°F) for 20–25 minutes until golden and the cheese is melted and bubbly (preferred method to prevent leakage), or fry carefully at 170–180°C (340–350°F). Serve: Serve hot with chimichurri or a mild tomato salsa. Add aji molido for a spicy kick if desired. We folded these with big smiles, the cheese promising melty joy with every bite. Notes: Tomatican is a versatile Argentine classic. Asado al Estilo de las Hermanas – Mountain-Style Grill No trip to Argentina is complete without asado. One evening at a family-run bodega, the women showed us how they prepare the grill with love and patience. It wasn’t just meat—it was ritual. The Essentials: Method:Build a slow fire with local hardwood. Season the meat simply with salt. Grill low and slow, turning as needed. The secret? Let the flames kiss it gently while you sip Malbec and tell stories. We stood around the grill in the crisp mountain air, passing plates and toasting to the “hermanas” who made us feel like family. Chimichurri de las Montañas This bright, herbaceous sauce elevated every bite. We learned to make it fresh from garden herbs. Ingredients: Instructions:Mix everything together. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes so the flavors marry. Spoon generously over grilled meats or use as a marinade. One of the women declared it “liquid sunshine”—and we all agreed. Humitas Mendocinas – Sweet Corn Tamales A vegetarian favorite we discovered higher in the mountains. Creamy, slightly sweet, and wrapped in corn husks like little gifts from the earth. Ingredients (makes 8–10): Instructions:Sauté onion in butter. Blend most of the corn with milk, then mix with whole kernels, cornmeal, and seasonings.Fill softened husks, fold, and steam for 45–60 minutes. We ate them warm, paired with a floral Torrontés, while watching condors soar overhead. Doña Paula’s Tomatican This versatile tomato-egg stew was shared as a perfect side or light main—bright,
Petit Caro – Mendoza’s Playful Powerhouse
Petit Caro is a playful love letter to Franco‑Argentine winemaking: Bodegas CARO (founded 1999) is the joint venture where Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) meets the Catena family to marry Bordeaux Cabernet know‑how with Argentina’s high‑altitude Malbec magic. Housed in a lovingly restored 1884 winery in Mendoza, the project launched its flagship CARO in 2000 and introduced Petit Caro as the friendly, fruit‑forward sibling. The name says it all — Ca (Catena) + Ro (Rothschild) — a tidy little shout‑out to two storied families. Vine sourcing spans Mendoza’s marquee districts — Luján de Cuyo (Agrelo), Altamira, La Consulta and the Uco Valley (Tupungato, Gualtallary) — so you get concentrated, altitude‑driven fruit that Lafite’s blending discipline and Catena’s vineyard savvy shape into wines with Old‑World structure and New‑World exuberance. On a personal note, I visited the restored CARO bodega in September 2025 and left grinning. Touring the cellars, wandering through the photography exhibit, tasting with the winemaker and stepping into the 3D grapevine installation in the cellars was pure sensory fun. The month’s photography exhibit, “Terroir & Light,” used stark monochrome and warm color studies to dramatize sun, soil and human touch in the vineyards — evocative, thoughtful and unexpectedly moving. The 1884 building itself anchors the modern project in history while making the whole experience feel theatrical in the best way. A blend 62% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc. The vintage was dry and easy‑going: early bud break in October, flowering in late November, and Uco Valley harvest between March 21 and April 7. Grapes are hand‑harvested and sorted; fermentation happens in stainless steel with gentle pumping‑over to coax color and ripe tannin without harshness. The wine spends 12 months aging — half in French oak barrels and half in concrete vats — an approach that gives texture and subtle oak spice while keeping fruit purity front and center. In the glass Petit Caro is a deep red with violet highlights that catch the light. The nose is generous and layered: ripe red cherry and plum up front, bright blackcurrant and a syrupy fig note, then a sweep of baking spice, crushed herbs and a graphite thread that keeps things lively. The palate is broadly appealing — round and plush at first, then brightened by lively acidity; soft, polished tannins lend structure without grabbing the tongue. Flavors echo the nose (red fruit, blackcurrant, fig) and build into a cocoa‑tinged, slightly savory finish with a whisper of cedar and warm spice. It’s immediately enjoyable but has enough backbone for short‑term cellaring and for pairing with food. And oh, the pairings — Petit Caro practically begs for empanadas. Beef empanadas flecked with smoked paprika, cumin and sautéed onion are a classic match: the wine’s dark fruit and savory thread mirror the meat while acidity cuts the fat and refreshes the palate. Chimichurri chicken empanadas are a bright, herbaceous partner — the wine’s lift and midpalate flesh complement the parsley, garlic and acid in the sauce. Cheese and caramelized‑onion empanadas are a cozy, indulgent match: the wine’s cocoa/ oak whisper and soft tannins play beautifully with sweet onion and melted cheese. For spicy fillings (think a hot pepper chimichurri or spicy beef), chill the bottle slightly (55–60°F) to soothe heat and let the fruit sing. Beyond empanadas, Petit Caro is charming with holiday ham — the wine’s gentle sweetness and savory backbone balance salty, glazed ham beautifully (I watched it elevate our Easter table). It also pairs well with grilled flank steak or chimichurri‑dressed roasted vegetables, and if you’re doing a tapas spread, try it alongside manchego, roasted peppers, olives and cured meats for a lively, convivial service. In short: Petit Caro 2022 is a cheerful, well‑made Mendoza red that mixes Malbec plushness and Cabernet structure with a touch of Franc lift. It’s approachable, food‑centric and just the sort of bottle you’ll reach for when you want something versatile, flavorful and sociable. Pop a cork, share a plate of empanadas (or ham), and enjoy the happy chemistry. Cheers from The Happy Vine.