Ferrari Trento: Vertical Freshness & The Italian Art of Living
There are wineries you visit to taste wine—and then there are those that make you feel something deeper. At Ferrari Trento, it’s never just about what’s in the glass—it’s about how you experience it. From the moment I arrived, guided through the estate by Jacopo and Anna Chiara, I sensed it immediately. This was not a standard visit, but an invitation into a rhythm—one defined by elegance, harmony, and quiet intention. Nothing feels forced. Nothing feels overdone.Everything feels considered. And as the day unfolded, one truth became clear: every bottle here carries its own story. Where precision meets feeling Set in the mountains of Trentino, with vineyards reaching up to 750 meters, Ferrari’s identity begins with altitude. You feel it not just in the air, but eventually in the glass. Chardonnay is the foundation, representing the majority of production, while Pinot Noir adds depth and structure, particularly in rosé and Blanc de Noirs expressions. Everything begins with care. The harvest is entirely by hand, followed by immediate cooling to 12°C to preserve aromatic purity. From there, time becomes the defining element—not a constraint, but a tool. Aging is deliberate and varied, from a few years to over a decade, allowing each wine to develop its intended expression while maintaining a remarkable sense of lift. This balance—between energy and depth—is what Cyril Brun, cellar master later describes as: “Vertical freshness.” And underpinning it all is a philosophy of restraint: “The best correction is the one you never have to make.” Into the cellars: where time is shaped Before the tasting, we moved into the cellars—and the pace shifted. Cool, quiet, almost meditative, it’s a space that invites you to slow down. Rows of bottles rest in perfect order, each evolving at its own pace. Then the riddling. Three specialists, working entirely by hand, turn upwards of thirty-five thousand of bottles each day. The movement is rhythmic, precise, almost hypnotic. It’s a reminder that even at scale, Ferrari preserves the human touch where it matters most. And then—the family library. The bottles in the family library dating back to 1972 and beyond are not reserved for special occasions, but serve as a living reference for the winemaking team—an archive of decades of knowledge used to guide decisions and navigate both present and future challenges. Standing there, you begin to understand: Ferrari is not just producing wine for the present—it is thinking in decades. Villa Margon: where time stands still If the cellars reveal time in motion, Villa Margon reveals time preserved. Guided by Camilla Lunelli, the visit felt deeply personal—less a tour, more an invitation into the family’s history. The villa’s 16th-century frescoes remain entirely original. Not restored, not altered—preserved simply by its location, tucked away from the main paths of history. Over centuries, it was never disturbed. It simply remained. Walking through its rooms, there is a palpable stillness—a journey of continuity that is rare to experience. At one point, I asked quietly if it might be possible to see the private chapel. To my surprise, the answer was yes. Small, intimate, and still used for family mass, it offered a moment of quiet connection—something deeply human within the grandeur. A rare privilege, and one that stayed with me. A dream that reshaped Italian sparkling wine Ferrari’s story begins with Giulio Ferrari, a visionary who saw potential where others did not. After studying in Champagne, he recognized the unique conditions of Trentino—altitude, climate, and the ability to preserve acidity while achieving ripeness. He brought Chardonnay cuttings from Épernay and planted them here, convinced the region could produce wines of equal finesse. In 1902, Ferrari was born. “Everything can begin with a dream.” From just 700 bottles, the house quickly gained recognition, earning international awards within a few years. Remarkably, it remained untouched through World War II, preserving not only its structure but its vision. That vision was carried forward by Bruno Lunelli and continues today with the third generation of the Lunelli family—where tradition and evolution exist in balance. Meeting Cyril Brun: listening before leading When Cyril Brun joined Ferrari, his first instinct was not to change—but to understand. “For the first six months, I did nothing. I observed, I listened, I learned.” That approach speaks volumes. His role is not to redefine Ferrari, but to refine it—guided by a clear philosophy: “Verticality. Crystalline clarity. Purity… and Pleasure.” And it is within the tasting that these words come fully to life. The tasting: a progression in precision The tasting unfolds as a progression—each wine building on the last, moving from energy and brightness into depth and complexity. Chardonnay remains Ferrari’s central voice, but Pinot Noir is an increasingly important counterpoint. Brun described Ferrari’s identity as a duet between the two grapes. “That’s why you see black and white everywhere in Ferrari communication—it’s the duet between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” During our tasting, I asked Brun what he would be if he were not a winemaker. His answer came without hesitation: “I would be an orchestra conductor.” It is a perfect metaphor for the way he works. “Making wine is like conducting an orchestra. You have the small triangle, you have the big bass, and you have to deal with all those different voices.” That image lingers. It captures both his humility and his precision. A conductor does not impose sound from nothing. He shapes, balances, listens, and guides. That is exactly what Brun appears to be doing at Ferrari. What stayed with me What defines Ferrari is not what it tries to be—but what it chooses not to become. It does not chase power.It does not overstate itself. Instead, it focuses on precision, balance, and identity. Mountain freshness.Energy without excess.Complexity without weight. And through it all—a sense of ease. Final sip Ferrari Trento may have been inspired by Champagne—but it has become something entirely its own. A house shaped by altitude, defined by time, and guided by intention. And for me, this was more than a visit. It was an experience you feel—and one that stays with you. What Ferrari
VinItaly By Night
Verona nights, Tuscan soul.During the Vinitaly marathon I was treated to two unforgettable evenings: a Big Bottle Social dinner hosted by Tenuta Sette Ponti at the frescoed Palazzo Verità Poeta, followed by an intimate industry gathering — Chianti Lovers & Rosso Morellino — at AMO Bistrot, hosted by IEEM USA. Both events fused impeccable wine, inspired food pairings, and that ineffable Italian energy. Palazzo Verità Poeta’s frescoed salons and ornate ceilings feel like stepping into a living masterpiece: once the urban residence of the Verità Poeta family, the palazzo evolved from Renaissance elegance to Baroque splendor and has been lovingly restored to host concerts, exhibitions and intimate private events. For Tenuta Sette Ponti’s Big Bottle Social Night the rooms shimmered under gilded cornices as giant bottles gleamed on illuminated plinths, while murmurs of conversation and the clink of glasses echoed through frescoed vaults—history and hedonism entwined, making every taste of wine feel like a discovery suspended in time. Hosts Antonio and Alberto Moretti Cuseri — father and son — presided with warm hospitality, embodying Tenuta Sette Ponti’s ethos of handmade luxury. Tenuta Sette Ponti (Valdarno di Sopra DOC) and Orma (Bolgheri) provided the backbone of the tasting, supported by their wider portfolio: Poggio al Lupo (Maremma) with bold, Mediterranean reds and coastal lift; Feudo Macarri (Noto, Sicily) delivering sun-soaked Nero d’Avola and expressive island whites; Animaetna (Etna, Sicily) offering mineral-driven, volcanic reds and crisp high-altitude whites; and the flagship Sette Ponti bottlings that balance power with finesse. Together the estates showcased the family’s terroir-driven range across Tuscany and Sicily. Big Bottle Tasting highlights: A night for Chianti lovers featuring wines from Chianti & Morellino, the evening was equally compelling through thoughtful, perfectly paired bites elevated every glass; bottles flowed, conversations buzzed, and the rooms pulsed with passion for Tuscan terroir. Tuscany stole the show — and Morellino was my happy star of the night. Chianti Classico (Sangiovese-led) ranges from fresh, floral giovane bottlings with cherry and tomato leaf brightness to more structured Classico and Superiore expressions that layer ripe red fruit, dried herbs, leather and savory spice over firmer tannins and brighter acidity; Riserva bottlings show extended oak and bottle aging, adding tobacco, cedar, earth and long, refined finishes ideal for roasted meats and aged cheeses. Rosso Morellino di Scansano, by contrast, leans toward the sun-warmed, coastal side of Sangiovese: exuberant bright red cherry, ripe plum, Mediterranean herbs and a plush, silky palate, often showing softer tannins and a juicy, fresh immediate appeal. Winemaking choices (shorter maceration, judicious oak or amphora) can push Morellino from bright and fruity to more textured, savory versions with spice and smoky nuances — which is exactly what made the Morellino at AMO Bistrot the night’s standout for me: fresh, vividly fruity, effortlessly drinkable yet complex enough to linger with every bite. Every pour told a story of sun-drenched vineyards, coastal breezes and generations of winemaking — if this is what Tuscany tastes like, I’m already planning my next glass.
Los Mujeres de la Montañas: Recipes & Memories from Our Wines of Argentina Adventure
There are trips that fill your glass, and then there are trips that fill your heart with lifelong sisters. Some journeys stay with you forever—not just because of the breathtaking landscapes or the world-class wines, but because of the women you share them with. In September 2025, a group of us embarked on a Wines of Argentina tour that took us deep into the foothills of the Andes. We laughed until our sides hurt, hiked until our legs ached, and toasted countless glasses of Malbec as the sun dipped behind snow-capped peaks. We called ourselves Los Mujeres de la Montañas—the Women of the Mountains. Strong, spirited, and bonded by a love for wine, food, and discovery. Along the way, I collected recipes from the gracious winemakers, chefs, and local families we met. Back home, I gathered them into a little private cookbook I titled Los Hermanas Cookbook—a tribute to the sisterhood we formed amid the vines. Today, I’m sharing these recipes with you as living memories. Each one carries the scent of grilled meats, the earthiness of fresh herbs from high-altitude gardens, and the warmth of women cooking together after long days in the vineyards. Pair them with a bold Argentine red (or a crisp Torrontés if you prefer white), and let the mountains come alive in your kitchen. Empanadas from the Heart of the Andes Treasured Recipes Shared with Pride by Los Mujeres de la Montañas Empanadas were the thread that connected so many of our days—passed around at bodega tastings, packed for picnic hikes, and made together in cozy kitchens. The wonderful ladies and winemakers we met were each so proud of their own version, sharing them with us in confidence as a gesture of friendship. Here they are, exactly as given to us. Terrasaz’s Beef Empanadas Shared by the warm team at Terrasaz, this onion-rich beauty reflects the generous, juicy style they’re known for in the region. Ingredients (Makes ~20 empanadas): Preparation: Notes: The high onion-to-beef ratio (2:1) creates a juicy, flavorful filling typical of Argentine empanadas. Soaking raisins in wine adds a subtle sweetness and depth—use a bold red like Malbec for authenticity. We made these one golden afternoon at Terrasaz, the high onion content filling the kitchen with the most incredible aroma as we laughed and folded dough together. Salentein’s Argentine Beef and Potato Empanadas The Salentein team shared this comforting, potato-enriched version—perfect for the mountain energy we needed after hikes. Use the same assembly, sealing, and cooking instructions as Terrasaz’s Beef Empanadas above (bake at 200°C/400°F or fry at 180°C/350°F). Ingredients (Makes ~15–18 empanadas): Notes: The potatoes add a starchy, comforting texture while aji molido brings mild, fruity heat. These became our favorite “after-hike” empanadas—sturdy and satisfying. The stirred egg creates a richer texture, while poached eggs keep it more traditional. Adjust seasoning to taste. Alejandro Sejanovich’s Pork Empanadas Alejandro generously shared this elegant, hand-chopped pork version with us—one of the most flavorful and aromatic we encountered. Follow the detailed filling preparation in your original notes (sauté dill and corn with broth first, cook pork separately, soften onions, combine everything with blanched potatoes and optional gelatin, then chill). Use the same assembly, sealing, and cooking instructions as Terrasaz’s (bake at 250°C/482°F for 20–25 minutes or fry at 170–180°C/340–350°F). Add a pinch of green onion tops, half an olive, and a slice of egg to each before sealing. Pair with a light Torrontés. Alejandro’s Argentine Cheese Empanadas The same generous spirit brought us this gooey, onion-and-cheese delight—perfect for a lighter moment. Ingredients (Makes ~12–15 empanadas): Preparation: Melt butter and cook the thinly sliced white onions until translucent and soft (about 10–15 minutes). Season with oregano, black pepper, and salt. Let cool completely. Combine cooled onions with the cubed Gouda and mozzarella in a large bowl. Mix gently. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Assemble and Cook: Follow the assembly instructions from Terrasaz’s Beef Empanadas, adding a pinch of chopped green onion tops and half a green olive to each. Pierce each empanada three times on top with a fork to allow steam to escape. Refrigerate until ready to cook. Bake at 250°C (482°F) for 20–25 minutes until golden and the cheese is melted and bubbly (preferred method to prevent leakage), or fry carefully at 170–180°C (340–350°F). Serve: Serve hot with chimichurri or a mild tomato salsa. Add aji molido for a spicy kick if desired. We folded these with big smiles, the cheese promising melty joy with every bite. Notes: Tomatican is a versatile Argentine classic. Asado al Estilo de las Hermanas – Mountain-Style Grill No trip to Argentina is complete without asado. One evening at a family-run bodega, the women showed us how they prepare the grill with love and patience. It wasn’t just meat—it was ritual. The Essentials: Method:Build a slow fire with local hardwood. Season the meat simply with salt. Grill low and slow, turning as needed. The secret? Let the flames kiss it gently while you sip Malbec and tell stories. We stood around the grill in the crisp mountain air, passing plates and toasting to the “hermanas” who made us feel like family. Chimichurri de las Montañas This bright, herbaceous sauce elevated every bite. We learned to make it fresh from garden herbs. Ingredients: Instructions:Mix everything together. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes so the flavors marry. Spoon generously over grilled meats or use as a marinade. One of the women declared it “liquid sunshine”—and we all agreed. Humitas Mendocinas – Sweet Corn Tamales A vegetarian favorite we discovered higher in the mountains. Creamy, slightly sweet, and wrapped in corn husks like little gifts from the earth. Ingredients (makes 8–10): Instructions:Sauté onion in butter. Blend most of the corn with milk, then mix with whole kernels, cornmeal, and seasonings.Fill softened husks, fold, and steam for 45–60 minutes. We ate them warm, paired with a floral Torrontés, while watching condors soar overhead. Doña Paula’s Tomatican This versatile tomato-egg stew was shared as a perfect side or light main—bright,
Petit Caro – Mendoza’s Playful Powerhouse
Petit Caro is a playful love letter to Franco‑Argentine winemaking: Bodegas CARO (founded 1999) is the joint venture where Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) meets the Catena family to marry Bordeaux Cabernet know‑how with Argentina’s high‑altitude Malbec magic. Housed in a lovingly restored 1884 winery in Mendoza, the project launched its flagship CARO in 2000 and introduced Petit Caro as the friendly, fruit‑forward sibling. The name says it all — Ca (Catena) + Ro (Rothschild) — a tidy little shout‑out to two storied families. Vine sourcing spans Mendoza’s marquee districts — Luján de Cuyo (Agrelo), Altamira, La Consulta and the Uco Valley (Tupungato, Gualtallary) — so you get concentrated, altitude‑driven fruit that Lafite’s blending discipline and Catena’s vineyard savvy shape into wines with Old‑World structure and New‑World exuberance. On a personal note, I visited the restored CARO bodega in September 2025 and left grinning. Touring the cellars, wandering through the photography exhibit, tasting with the winemaker and stepping into the 3D grapevine installation in the cellars was pure sensory fun. The month’s photography exhibit, “Terroir & Light,” used stark monochrome and warm color studies to dramatize sun, soil and human touch in the vineyards — evocative, thoughtful and unexpectedly moving. The 1884 building itself anchors the modern project in history while making the whole experience feel theatrical in the best way. A blend 62% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc. The vintage was dry and easy‑going: early bud break in October, flowering in late November, and Uco Valley harvest between March 21 and April 7. Grapes are hand‑harvested and sorted; fermentation happens in stainless steel with gentle pumping‑over to coax color and ripe tannin without harshness. The wine spends 12 months aging — half in French oak barrels and half in concrete vats — an approach that gives texture and subtle oak spice while keeping fruit purity front and center. In the glass Petit Caro is a deep red with violet highlights that catch the light. The nose is generous and layered: ripe red cherry and plum up front, bright blackcurrant and a syrupy fig note, then a sweep of baking spice, crushed herbs and a graphite thread that keeps things lively. The palate is broadly appealing — round and plush at first, then brightened by lively acidity; soft, polished tannins lend structure without grabbing the tongue. Flavors echo the nose (red fruit, blackcurrant, fig) and build into a cocoa‑tinged, slightly savory finish with a whisper of cedar and warm spice. It’s immediately enjoyable but has enough backbone for short‑term cellaring and for pairing with food. And oh, the pairings — Petit Caro practically begs for empanadas. Beef empanadas flecked with smoked paprika, cumin and sautéed onion are a classic match: the wine’s dark fruit and savory thread mirror the meat while acidity cuts the fat and refreshes the palate. Chimichurri chicken empanadas are a bright, herbaceous partner — the wine’s lift and midpalate flesh complement the parsley, garlic and acid in the sauce. Cheese and caramelized‑onion empanadas are a cozy, indulgent match: the wine’s cocoa/ oak whisper and soft tannins play beautifully with sweet onion and melted cheese. For spicy fillings (think a hot pepper chimichurri or spicy beef), chill the bottle slightly (55–60°F) to soothe heat and let the fruit sing. Beyond empanadas, Petit Caro is charming with holiday ham — the wine’s gentle sweetness and savory backbone balance salty, glazed ham beautifully (I watched it elevate our Easter table). It also pairs well with grilled flank steak or chimichurri‑dressed roasted vegetables, and if you’re doing a tapas spread, try it alongside manchego, roasted peppers, olives and cured meats for a lively, convivial service. In short: Petit Caro 2022 is a cheerful, well‑made Mendoza red that mixes Malbec plushness and Cabernet structure with a touch of Franc lift. It’s approachable, food‑centric and just the sort of bottle you’ll reach for when you want something versatile, flavorful and sociable. Pop a cork, share a plate of empanadas (or ham), and enjoy the happy chemistry. Cheers from The Happy Vine.
Salentein’s Empanadas
This is an excerpt from a cookbook that I compiled from our Wines of Argentina trip in September 2025 called Los Hermanas Cookbook. This recipe is from Bodega Salentein’s Empanada cooking class. Argentine Beef and Potato Empanadas Ingredients (Makes ~15–18 empanadas): Preparation: Notes:
Sun, Wind, Stone: Vajra’s 2022 Barolo Yearbook
My recent virtual tasting with Giuseppe Vajra of G.D. Vajra still has me buzzing. Far from the usual awkward camera angles and muted coughs, the session was rich with family stories, thoughtful farming philosophy, and an engaging deep dive into Nebbiolo that had me smiling into my glass. Giuseppe and I share a love for the technical, nerdy side of wine — and that connection made the tasting especially rewarding. A little backstory before we sip: Vajra is a family-run estate perched on the western heights of Barolo, where the hills play by their own rules. High elevation means light rules the ripening more than heat — wind over warmth, cool nights and intense sun during the day — the kind of place where grapes learn subtlety by virtue of altitude. The family saga began in 1968 when Giuseppe’s father, Also, swapped city life (and a very brief hippie phase) for the contadino dream. After one life-changing summer he stayed, and 2022 marked his 50th harvest. Fifty. Years. Of. Dirt. Wisdom. Tell me that doesn’t deserve a toast. The 2022 vintage: hot, dry, and full of lessons2022 threw the usual modern curveballs — heat and drought — so Vajra leaned into patience and practical ingenuity. Organic farming, yes, but more importantly: patience. Giuseppe insisted the real art is letting vines age. Older vines reach deeper water, are steadier across weird seasons, and frankly, get more interesting with time. Viticulture highlights that made me nod: Winemaking choices mirrored that philosophy: long skin contact to build texture and structure, but a shorter aging timeline — 22 months in big Slavonian casks — to preserve freshness, lift, and the age-worthy backbone Nebbiolo needs. The tasting — four (plus) Barolos that made my heart do a little cha-chaWe tasted through the 2022s and, friends, each bottle felt like a different chapter from the same family album — some polite, some loud, all authentic. What stuck with me (besides my bottle-stained notebook)Giuseppe’s approach reads like a masterclass in humility. He’s not chasing fashion; he’s steering ancient vines through modern weather with brains and patience. From delayed pruning and not topping vines, to adding a sorting table and choosing big cask aging, every decision was made to protect Nebbiolo’s voice — to amplify the vineyard, not the winemaker. And spirit? That family warmth — Also’s leap into farming, half-hippie origin story, five decades of harvests — gives the wines a narrative that’s impossible to bottle but palpable in the glass. Final sips and the takeawayIf you love wines that are honest, terroir-driven, and made with a farmer’s patience, the Vajra 2022s demand your attention. They show adaptation without losing identity, freshness without sacrificing structure, and a lively, sometimes provocative personality that keeps you coming back for more. So pour a glass, turn up something with good guitar riffs (for Ravera), or curl up and contemplate minerality (for Cerretta). Either way, Giuseppe and his family remind us that great wine is equal parts soil, weather, and unconditional love. And if that’s not the most romantic thing you’ll hear this week, I don’t know what is. Many thanks to Studio Cru for arranging this intimate tasting with Giuseppe Vajra.
A Wine That Dares You
Machete 2016: Orin Swift’s Liquid MidnightIn the world of California wine, few producers blur the line between art, attitude, and hedonistic pleasure quite like Dave Phinney. Through his boundary-pushing label Orin Swift Cellars, Phinney built a cult following by doing something deceptively simple: find the best fruit and don’t screw it up.Founded in 1998, Orin Swift quickly became a lightning rod for collectors, trendsetters, and adventurous drinkers who wanted more than just another Napa red. Phinney had already shaken the wine world with The Prisoner, and with Orin Swift he pushed even further—melding bold winemaking with provocative, gallery-worthy labels and a philosophy that celebrates both craft and creativity.One bottle that perfectly captures that spirit is Machete 2016.This is not a quiet wine.This is a wine with presence. The Blend: A Bold California MosaicUnlike many traditional Napa wines that lean on a single dominant grape, Machete embraces the freedom of blending. The 2016 vintage is built primarily around Petite Sirah, supported by Syrah and Grenache—a trio that delivers both power and personality.Petite Sirah provides the backbone: deep color, muscular structure, and dense black-fruit intensity. Syrah layers in savory spice and aromatic depth, while Grenache softens the edges with lush red fruit and a rounded mouthfeel.The fruit is sourced from premium vineyard sites across California, including areas tied to Napa Valley, giving the wine both richness and regional complexity. The result is a blend that feels bold yet deliberate—powerful but never clumsy. First Impressions: Liquid MidnightPour Machete 2016 into the glass and the visual impact is immediate.The wine shows a deep ruby core that fades into an almost inky purple, hinting at the concentration within. It moves slowly in the glass, thick legs trailing down the bowl like dark velvet.It looks less like a simple red wine and more like liquid midnight. Tasting Notes: Power with PolishAromaticsThe nose opens with a bold rush of dark fruit before unfolding into deeper, more layered complexity.You’ll find aromas of:Black plumBlackberry compoteDark cherryAs the wine breathes, secondary notes emerge:Cocoa powderCracked black pepperLicoriceVanilla beanUnderneath it all lies a subtle earthy backbone—cedar, toasted espresso, and dark chocolate—adding intrigue and depth.The bouquet is rich and dramatic, yet surprisingly composed. PalateOn the palate, Machete delivers exactly what Orin Swift fans crave: plush texture and unapologetic flavor.The entry is lush and generous, bursting with ripe blackberry and plum. As the wine expands across the mid-palate, layers of cocoa nib, baking spice, and dark chocolate begin to unfold.Hints of graphite and pepper add dimension, preventing the wine from tipping into excess sweetness.The structure is full-bodied and broad, with velvety tannins that give the wine its signature plush feel. Despite its richness, the balance remains impressive—intense but controlled. FinishThe finish lingers long after the last sip.Dark chocolate, toasted oak, black pepper, and dried fruit echo on the palate, carried by firm yet polished tannins. It’s the kind of finish that invites contemplation—and another pour. Style: Modern California in Full VoiceMachete 2016 exemplifies what many wine lovers adore about modern California blends: opulent fruit, polished structure, and immediate drinkability.It’s expressive, bold, and unapologetically stylish.Yet beneath the swagger lies craftsmanship. This isn’t just a wine designed to impress—it’s a wine built with intention and balance. Pairing PossibilitiesWith its intensity and richness, Machete pairs beautifully with equally bold dishes.Try it with grilled ribeye, smoked brisket, braised short ribs, or lamb chops seasoned with rosemary and cracked pepper. The wine’s dark fruit and spice also complement barbecue sauces and smoky flavors exceptionally well.For the adventurous, a square of dark chocolate alongside a final sip can be a surprisingly satisfying match. Why Collectors Love Orin SwiftBeyond the wine itself, Orin Swift bottles have become icons of contemporary wine culture.Collectors are drawn to the brand for several reasons:Striking, avant-garde label designsConsistent quality across vintagesBold, recognizable winemaking styleBottles that feel as much like art pieces as beveragesEach release captures the same ethos: break the rules, but never compromise the wine. Final PourSome wines whisper elegance.Some wines impress quietly.Machete 2016 kicks the door open.It’s bold, seductive, and a little dangerous—dark fruit wrapped in velvet tannins with a pulse of spice and power underneath. A wine that feels confident enough to stare back at you from the glass.It’s liquid midnight.A sucker punch of flavor.A bottle with attitude and intention.In other words:Welcome to Orin Swift.
Conviviality, Rosé, and Sainte-Victoire: Léa Rouyet
This Women’s Month, I had the genuine pleasure of sitting down—virtually—for an unhurried, heartfelt conversation with Léa Rouyet, the talented winemaker at Château Gassier in the sun-drenched heart of Provençe. Our connection actually began over a lively dinner in Paris last year with friends from MFL&Co. and Gassier, where her quiet confidence and obvious passion for both wine and place left a lasting impression. I knew then she would be the perfect voice for this series celebrating women in wine and gastronomy. So I sent my list of questions ahead of time—some deliberately offbeat and introspective—to give her time to think. When we finally spoke, she admitted with a laugh, “There were a few where I told myself I was going to play the joker.” That candid admission, and the thoughtful way she answered anyway, made this one of the most rewarding and human interviews I’ve ever conducted. Château Gassier sits at the foot of the iconic Mont Sainte-Victoire, the limestone massif that has inspired painters, poets, and now winemakers for generations. The wines themselves feel like an extension of that landscape—elegant, joyful, and deeply rooted in place. Léa’s own journey into this world didn’t begin in a vineyard or a cellar, but around crowded Sunday lunch tables in a tiny village in southwest France (population: 500 souls). “What gave me the desire to work in the world of wine is the conviviality around it,” she explained. Those childhood meals—her grandmother presiding, adults sharing glasses of local red and animated stories—quietly planted the seed. She watched, fascinated, wondering why she wasn’t allowed to taste “this little beverage that looks so good.” That curiosity eventually led her to agronomy studies, where she discovered she loved the entire arc of the process: “From the little plant you put in the ground for a very long time… to seeing it grow, produce grapes, and then the complete transformation into the bottle. It’s so global and so interesting.” Advice for Women Entering (or Staying in) the Wine World The wine industry remains heavily masculine, and Léa encountered that reality head-on early in her career. She still remembers the moment an 80-year-old vigneron, handing over his vineyard and cellar, looked at the young woman standing in front of him and said bluntly: “But you’re the one who’s going to take care of the vines? You’re young, you’re a woman… how will you manage?” She smiled recounting it—because six months later she was invited to this gentleman’s Sunday family lunch with his relatives and everything was fine. She had earned his respect the old-fashioned way: through quiet competence and persistence. Her advice to other women—whether just starting out or already navigating the industry—is both empowering and refreshingly down-to-earth: “You have to believe that you are legitimate in doing this job and that as women we bring so many beautiful things to this still very masculine world.” And since becoming a mother, she’s added a second, equally vital lesson: “You have to accept that everything can’t be perfect. We have the right to make mistakes and not be everywhere at the same time.” As the mother of two daughters, I felt that line land right in my chest. The illusion that we can tie every loose end with a perfect bow vanishes the moment real life—with its tantrums, spilled juice, and endless questions—arrives. Léa’s permission to be imperfect felt like a small gift. Balancing Vines, Children, and a Full Life Maintaining equilibrium between a demanding winemaking career and motherhood is, in her words, “a work in progress.” She’s still learning, still adjusting. Her guiding principle is radical presence: “When I arrive home, I’m at home. When I’m at work, I’m at work. I try not to mix all the subjects at once.” Easier said than done, of course, but the intention matters. She also gives generous credit to her partner—“a really important point”—whose support allows both of them space to thrive professionally and personally. We shared a knowing smile over the old saying “it takes a village to raise a child”. With both of us living far from extended family—hers in southwest France, mine scattered across Canada and the U.S.—building that village through partners, friends, trusted caregivers, or neighbors becomes essential. And what works beautifully one month might need to be completely rethought the next. The Quiet Revolution of Motherhood When I asked which experience outside of work had most transformed her worldview, Léa didn’t hesitate: becoming a mother. “It makes you think much more long-term… Our priorities are no longer the same. It gives us a lot of height on the world and our little passage in humanity.” That long view has sharpened her environmental convictions and deepened her sense of responsibility toward the vineyard’s future. She’s no longer thinking only about today’s vintage—she’s thinking about the vintages her child will inherit. A Bottle Shared with Grandfather One of the tenderest moments came when I asked who—living or gone—she would most want to share a bottle with. Her answer was soft and immediate: her grandfather, the wine lover whose presence at those childhood Sunday tables quietly shaped her path. The wine she would have chosen for him? Le Pas du Moine—“because it has elegance and complexity but is also a wine of pleasure, warmth, and conviviality.” The meal? A classic Sunday roast chicken, slow-cooked until the house filled with that unmistakable, comforting aroma. I loved the image so much that I immediately promised her: I will make my family’s “lazy chicken” (the easy one-pot version with hunks of bread underneath soaking up garlic, herbs, wine, and chicken juices) paired with Le Pas du Moine. I’ll send her the recipe and a photo of my girls raising a (juice) glass in toast. Some stories deserve to keep traveling—over tables, across oceans, from one kitchen to another. Who Léa Really Is (Beyond the Cellar) A fact that surprises people who meet her? This reserved, thoughtful winemaker loves to sing. If she had to describe herself in wine-related
Pleasantly Unanticipated Wonder Of Rueda
If you love crisp, aromatic whites that practically beg to be poured at sunset gatherings or lively tapas nights, let me whisk you away to D.O. Rueda in Castilla y León, Spain—the undisputed white-wine heartland I had the joy of exploring on March 27, 2026. As part of a small, lucky group of international Bacchus Competition judges, this journey went far beyond what most people typically think of when they picture Rueda whites. We delved deeply into the region’s impressive diversity, remarkable ageability, and wide appeal to wine lovers of all kinds. From the Consejo Regulador’s welcoming presentation to ancient vines swaying in the breeze, every moment felt like a true vibrant awakening. Come along as I share the highlights, the must-know facts, and why Rueda wines are pure magic for sharing. Where It All Began: Rueda’s Vineyard History Rueda’s story stretches back over a thousand years. Verdejo arrived in the 11th–12th centuries with Mozarabs (Christians from Moorish North Africa) who helped King Alfonso VI repopulate the Duero River valley after the Reconquista. Monks planted vines, and by the Middle Ages, Rueda was famous for its fortified “Dorado” and “Palido” styles served at the Spanish royal court. Phylloxera later devastated the region, shrinking vineyards dramatically, but a revival kicked off in the 1970s when Rioja’s Marqués de Riscal invested in modern techniques. Official D.O. status came in 1980—the first in Castilla y León—and the rest is delicious history. Today, Rueda proudly boasts about 20,700 hectares under vine, 79 wineries, and 1,523 growers, making it Spain’s top white-wine denomination by volume (over 118 million bottles produced in recent years) which accounts for a whopping 44.6% of market share! Why Rueda Is Perfect for Verdejo—the Star Varietal High on the Castilla y León plateau (700–800 meters altitude), Rueda enjoys a continental climate with a touch of Atlantic influence: blazing hot days, refreshingly cool nights, low rainfall, and stony, gravelly, sandy-limestone soils that force vines to dig deep for water and minerals. This diurnal temperature swing locks in bright acidity while the drought-tolerant Verdejo thrives, delivering concentrated aromatics without flab. Result? Wines bursting with citrus, green herbs, tropical hints, almond, and a signature saline minerality. Verdejo makes up a whopping 88% of plantings (with Sauvignon Blanc a strong supporting act). It’s hardy, expressive, and versatile—exactly why it’s Spain’s white-wine superstar. Other allowed varieties include Chardonnay and Viognier, but Verdejo remains the undisputed queen. The Character, Styles, and Those Tell-Tale Back Labels Rueda is overwhelmingly a white-wine region: whites account for over 99% of production with reds and rosés making up less than 1%. The star is Verdejo, but the full picture includes a small yet vibrant red presence using authorized varieties such as Tempranillo (the most common), Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Rueda whites are zesty, vibrant, and effortlessly elegant—think freshness with structure, never heavy. Classic styles include: Since the 2019–2020 rule refresh, all dry whites fall under the single “Rueda” designation (minimum 50% Verdejo and/or Sauvignon Blanc). Wines labeled Rueda Verdejo require a minimum of 85% Verdejo (most are 100% and proudly say so on the back label). Premium Gran Vino de Rueda highlights old-vine (30+ years) and low-yield bottlings for extra depth and complexity. The historic fortified styles, beloved for centuries, still thrive today for those who crave something different from the fresh styles. The delicate Pálido is a pale, dry and subtly oxidative wine with elegant notes of almond, chamomile and saline minerality, while the iconic Dorado — a golden-amber, richly oxidative treasure — offers profound layers of toasted hazelnut, caramel, dried apricot, honey and warm spices, traditionally aged in a solera system. Reds and rosés, though rare, follow the same D.O. framework: reds are typically 100% red varieties, while rosés need a minimum 50% red grapes. They tend to be fresh, vibrant, and fruit-forward—think bright cherry and herbal notes in young Tempranillo or Garnacha expressions, with some barrel-aged examples showing more structure and aging potential. A few standouts have even earned Gran Vino de Rueda status. You’ll spot the official D.O. Rueda seal and back label (contraetiqueta) on every bottle—it’s your guarantee of authenticity, quality, origin, vintage, and grape composition. No guesswork; just pure Rueda character in every sip, whether it’s a crisp white or a rare red. Why Rueda Wines Are Made for Sharing These wines are social superstars: bright, approachable, and ridiculously food-friendly. Pair them with seafood, fresh salads, creamy cheeses, or classic Spanish tapas, and watch conversations flow. Their great value, vibrant fruit, and lively acidity make them ideal for picnics, dinner parties, or simply passing the bottle among friends. In a world of complicated wines, Rueda delivers pure joy—versatile enough for casual sipping yet sophisticated enough to impress. No wonder they’re flying off shelves worldwide! My Bacchus Jury Day in Rueda: A Perfect Snapshot Our small group of judges kicked off the morning with arrival at the Consejo Regulador D.O. Rueda. A warm welcome, an insightful presentation on the region, and a focused tasting of a stellar selection of Rueda wines set the tone—fresh, informative, and utterly inspiring. We were then left to our own devices to taste 40 wines of various styles from fresh and lively to aged, oxidative, sweet and VORR. There were a few sprinklings of Sauvignon Blanc and Palomino Fino in the mix but, as the region dictates, Verdejo is the clear queen of the region. A handful stood out and absolutely stole the show: Bodegas Pandora Verdejo Ecológico 2025 burst with vibrant green-apple crunch and zesty lime; Diez Siglos de Verdejo 2025 delivered bright citrus fireworks laced with almond and saline minerality; Bodegas de Alberto Sobre Lías 2024 wrapped us in creamy toasted-nut richness with lingering peach; Bodegas Naia Verdejo 2022 offered elegant fennel and white-flower finesse; Rodríguez y Sanzo Palo Norte brought smoky herbal depth with electric tension; the historic Feliz Lorenzo Cachazo de Alberto Dorado showed golden oxidative nuttiness; its Dorado Dulce version was pure honeyed apricot bliss; and the rare Dorado VORR delivered profound, concentrated
Bacchus 2026: Unforgettable Tastings & Connections
Awaken your senses to the refined warmth of Spanish hospitality, timeless flair, and electrifying energy of Concurso Internacional Bacchus. The Bacchus International Wine Competition (Concurso Internacional Bacchus) remains Spain’s premier annual tasting for wine, vermouth, and spirits. Organized since 1996 by the Unión Española de Catadores in Madrid, Bacchus is recognized by the OIV and respected within the VINOFED network — a benchmark for technical rigor, international visibility, and industry credibility. Bacchus XXIV (Bacchus 2026), held in Madrid from 23–26 March, welcomed a diverse field: 1,462 wines, 28 vermouths, and 35 spirits from 14 countries. Ninety-two judges from 27 nationalities — critics, sommeliers, winemakers, educators, and importers — came together for strict blind tastings. Spanish entries were especially strong, covering 51 geographical indications and 42 designations of origin. Medals across Gran Bacchus de Oro, Bacchus de Oro, and Bacchus de Plata were awarded, with Mexico leading the international medal count. The competition’s logistics run like a well-tuned cellar: flights randomized, controlled tasting conditions, and multiple judges per sample to reduce bias. A calibration session at the start aligned scoring criteria and reference styles, helping ensure coherence across a widely varied panel. Beyond medals, detailed tasting notes offered producers and trade professionals practical feedback on market readiness and stylistic direction. Bacchus balances rigorous assessment with cultural and commercial programming. Over three full days, core blind panels were paired with masterclasses, producer showcases, trade tastings, and evening events — a mix that highlights both established appellations and fresh, experimental projects. The opening Ambassadors of Diversity Wine Salon set the tone, showcasing identity-driven wines and signaling that Bacchus values both tradition and innovation. Several wines stood out. Bodegas Serdio’s 50 VORS sherries revealed oxidative mastery: an Oloroso with nutty-caramel depth, an Amontillado layered with dried apricot and savory nuance, and a Palo Cortado of toasted-walnut precision and saline lift. Paco & Lola’s 2018 Albariño impressed with citrus lift and saline minerality; Granvazan Limousin Albariño offered creamy texture and toasted-almond nuance; Altos de Corona Caíño popped with green apple, wild herbs, and mineral energy; and Pago de los Capellanes Parcela El Picon 2021 showed concentrated dark fruit, warm spice, and silky, refined tannins. As a first time attendee, it was a genuine honor to participate in this esteemed competition. The event’s perfect scale created such wonderful camaraderie among wine professionals from around the globe, giving us the ideal setting to connect and build meaningful relationships with colleagues from every corner of the industry. Adding to the magic of the event were the exceptional lunches, masterclasses, and dinners that followed each day of tasting. All lunches and the core blind tasting sessions took place at the historic MOM Culinary Institute El Pardo — housed in a beautifully repurposed 19th-century convent in Madrid’s El Pardo district. That atmospheric setting, with its timeless architecture and warm, professional vibe, added an extra layer of charm and history to every moment. Culinary pairings and masterclasses were integral to the Bacchus experience, each designed to reveal new facets of the wines: – Lan & Sogrape hosted a standout lunch where grilled octopus and succulent Iberian pork cheek were paired deftly with elegant, balanced wines. Following this, a Raventós Codorníu masterclass showcased Cava’s traditional-method precision — crisp, fine bubbles and focused acidity that demonstrated the region’s world-class sparkling craftsmanship. – An asador dinner at Asador Gonzaba Madrid, sponsored by Marqués de Riscal, provided a quintessential Spanish grilling experience: jamón ibérico de bellota; jamón-and-cheese croquetas; grilled Galician scallops; and a magnificent chuletón de ternera, each course enlivened by generous pours of iconic Rioja and other classic Spanish labels. – Torres hosted a refined luncheon that highlighted varietal finesse and cellar craft, while a Zamora Company masterclass later in the day put a spotlight on exceptional Godello from Finca Lobeira and Godeval alongside a vibrant Ramón Bilbao Albariño — tastings that illustrated how soil, exposure, and vine age influence aromatic lift, texture, and aging potential. – Restaurante Zen Velázquez delivered an elegant Asian-fusion dinner paired with Bodegas NOC, where the Selección de Familia Ribera del Duero 2023 revealed plush dark cherry, violet florals, and polished tannins. Guests were also treated to one of the first public tastings of Bodegas NOC’s inaugural traditional-method sparkling rosé from Tempranillo — a milestone release that speaks to the region’s innovation. The closing day’s lunch at MOM tied the week together with elevated comfort fare — empanada de atún y Manchego, tuna encebollado, Iberian pork tenderloin, and a salted chocolate tart — alongside a strong lineup of standout wines. Noteworthy pours included Familia Navascues Mas de Mancuso Cariñena 2023 (sensual blackberry and pepper wrapped in silky tannins), Arrayan El Bufón Albillo Real 2023 (explosive pineapple and peach with electric acidity), Arrayan La Suerte 2021 (rich dark fruit and tobacco with a long polished finish), and Bodegas Pascual Fernández Siete Peldaños 1857 Selección de Viñas Viejas 2020 (deep cherry, leather, earth, and velvety texture). Sharing these wines with their producers, Jorge Navascues and Maite Sanchez Marquez, underscored the dialogue between bottle and maker that makes Bacchus so meaningful. The evening ended on a high note with a farewell dinner at Sua by Triiclea — a fresh, vibrant Rías Baixas celebration hosted by the Consejo Regulador. They poured 27 impressive Albariños; standouts included Lusco Albariño 2025 (zesty lemon, sea-breeze freshness), Pazo Señorans 2024 (peach and white-flower elegance, bright acidity), Albariño de Fefiñanes 2024 (crisp green apple, saline minerality), Pazo de Rubianes 2024 (creamy texture with tropical fruit) and Granbazán Don Álvaro de Bazán 2022 (honeyed apricot, toasted almond, long refined finish). The menu was exceptional (toast with smoked butter and anchovies were swoon worthy) & framed the wines beautifully and sent the week off in style. From a professional standpoint, Bacchus 2026 balanced technical rigor with access and storytelling. The scoring and medal outcomes continue to offer a reliable external validation that producers can leverage for market entry, trade attention, and consumer trust. For importers and distributors, the competition’s results and the relationships forged here provide a practical roadmap