Cocco Ilaria: A Woman-Led Winery Redefining Elegance in Montefalco
Nestled in the rolling hills of Montefalco, Umbria lies a hidden gem that’s capturing the hearts of wine lovers worldwide. Cocco Ilaria is a testament to passion, perseverance, and the power of a single woman’s vision. During a recent visit, I had the privilege of spending an afternoon with Ilaria Cocco, the dynamic force behind this boutique estate. What unfolded was not only a tasting of exceptional wines but a story of heritage, innovation, and unyielding creativity. For wine enthusiasts seeking authentic, soul-stirring experiences, Cocco Ilaria is a must-discover. Cocco Ilaria embodies the essence of Montefalco’s storied terroir while infusing it with a modern, feminine flair. Established in 2013, the winery produces around 12,000 bottles annually from just 3.5 hectares of vineyards, focusing on indigenous grapes like Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino, alongside Sangiovese and a touch of Merlot. The brand’s philosophy? Elegance over opulence. Ilaria steers clear of the heavy, tannic styles that once defined Sagrantino, opting instead for wines that prioritize freshness, drinkability, and minerality. The labels themselves are a work of art, reflecting Ilaria’s creative spirit. Inspired by a digital thumbprint that morphs into flowing hair, they add a “woman’s touch” without being overt. “I wanted to give a feminine essence to the wine,” Ilaria explained during our chat, “but not by putting a literal woman on the label.” The names—Avventata (impulsive, like wind-swept hair) for her lively Trebbiano Spoletino and Ponderata (thoughtful) for its more contemplative skin-contact version—play on Italian words that mirror the wines’ personalities. Even the red wines draw from historical roots: Camorata for Rosso di Montefalco, Fonsano for Sagrantino (evoking a local spring), and Fontiola for the Passito. This attention to detail extends to the winery’s future plans. Ilaria is experimenting with a sparkling Trebbiano Spoletino, set to debut soon—a bold move that promises to blend tradition with effervescent innovation. As she put it, “I’m really thinking a lot about the sparkling label… incorporating gold foils or something special.” Ilaria’s journey into winemaking is deeply personal, rooted in family tradition yet forged through her own determination. The land has been in her family for generations—her grandfather tended an ancient vineyard here, producing Sagrantino Passito for family consumption and gifting to local dignitaries like priests and doctors. “The harvest was a party for me as a child,” Ilaria recalled fondly. “I’d skip school to help, and Sunday lunches always featured his Passito.” But Ilaria didn’t inherit a turnkey operation. In 2000, she and her father replanted the vines on her grandfather’s neglected land, initially without plans for a winery. After studying unrelated fields and spending a year in London learning English, Ilaria returned in 2005 with a newfound passion. “I realized I wanted to tell my story through wine,” she said. Starting from zero, she built the winery, cellar, and tasting room herself, investing time and resources while juggling another job at her mother’s business in nearby Terni. Her father played a pivotal role in uncovering the winery’s historical ties. Through archival research in ancient Montefalco books, he traced the Cocco family back to the 1400s—dispelling myths of Sardinian origins and linking the surname to the town’s old name, Coccorone. This sleuthing inspired the wine names, drawn from historical place names like springs and valleys on the property. Today, the vineyard—now 25 years old—sits at 300 meters elevation on alluvial soil from an ancient lake bed, yielding grapes with elegant aromas and lower alcohol levels compared to clay-heavy sites elsewhere in Montefalco. Ilaria operates solo, with occasional help from consultants and vineyard workers. “I’m alone; I do everything myself,” she shared, emphasizing the challenges of a one-woman show. Yet, this independence fuels her authenticity. She’s not certified organic but practices sustainable farming intuitively, avoiding rigid calendars and focusing on the vineyard’s needs. “I don’t believe in just a piece of paper,” she noted. “I respect my land and the environment.” Stepping into Ilaria’s tasting room feels like entering a family home—complete with heirlooms that tell stories of the past. The massive wooden table and benches, salvaged from her grandfather’s era, include a clever bench crafted from an old oxen yoke. “This wood is like stone now, heavier than the table,” Ilaria laughed, pointing out pieces over a century old, including a cast-iron stove and church relics collected by her father. Our tasting showcased her creative winemaking style, always chasing elegance and terroir expression: Ilaria’s creativity shines in her refusal to filter or force styles: old concrete tanks for blending, minimal wood to let grapes speak. “I follow the grapes,” she said, a mantra that yields wines as unique as her story. At the heart of Cocco Ilaria is its namesake—a trailblazing woman in a male-dominated industry. Without a winemaking lineage, Ilaria built her “baby” from scratch, balancing two jobs and endless learning. “Winemaking is usually a family affair,” she acknowledged, “but this was my choice, my passion.” Her resilience inspires: from learning enology with consultants to managing vineyards solo, she’s a beacon for women in wine. As we wrapped up, Ilaria shared dreams of expanding the tasting area into a B&B-like space for immersive visits. “I want people to feel at home, not just visit a winery.” Her energy is infectious—much like the “sister from another mister” vibe we shared instantly. For wine enthusiasts, Cocco Ilaria offers more than bottles; it’s a narrative of empowerment and artistry. Plan a visit to Montefalco, savor her wines, and toast to Ilaria’s vision. Who knows? You might leave with a bottle (or two) and a new appreciation for Umbria’s underrated charms.
Andes to Plate: Trivento’s Elegant Malbec Exploration
An unforgettable evening unfolded at Vinile Chop House, where Trivento hosted an intimate Malbec dinner in collaboration with the restaurant’s talented team. This special gathering celebrated the versatility and elegance of Argentine Malbec, guided by none other than Trivento’s Chief Winemaker, Germán Di Césare, who traveled from Mendoza to share the stories, terroir, and passion behind each pour. Founded in 1996 in the foothills of the Andes, Trivento crafts wines with a deep respect for the land, blending meticulous winemaking with authentic expressions of Malbec—from vibrant modern styles to timeless single-vineyard gems. The evening’s menu was a thoughtful exploration of the grape, pairing four standout Trivento wines with a curated four-course meal that highlighted bold flavors, refined textures, and perfect harmony. Germán’s presence made the night truly personal. He spoke eloquently about the vineyard’s soul: “Every section within a plot has a sense of place,” he emphasized, highlighting how subtle variations in soil and microclimate create distinct character even within a small area. He also shared his reverence for nature’s gifts: “The mountains give us the most important elements—water and soil. We work hard with these elements.” The pinnacle of his passion shone through when discussing the iconic Eolo, sourced from ungrafted vines planted in 1912 in Luján de Cuyo’s historic Vistalba area. At around 930 meters elevation, the 4-hectare vineyard features alluvial soils—rock, sand, clay, and loam—that lend complexity and elegance. Germán described the wine as “clear, precise, powerful, and beautiful,” an expression of four different moods from four distinct soil types, or micro-appellations. First produced in 2000, Eolo holds a special place in his heart as the ultimate embodiment of place and history. Adding to the evening’s warmth, Germán expressed deep gratitude for recent recognition: “Being named Winemaker of the Year by the renowned Tim Atkin, MW means a lot to me. I am very grateful.” His humility and expertise brought every sip to life. The night began with the innovative Trivento White Malbec 2025, a rare and intriguing white expression of the grape. Crisp and crystalline, it burst with notes of green apple, lychee, and tropical pineapple, backed by bright acidity and a refreshing, medium-bodied finish. It was the ideal opener—light, surprising, and palate-cleansing. Paired beautifully with the First Course: Crab Malfadine featuring lump crab, fennel, and mascarpone. The wine’s lively fruit and subtle floral hints cut through the creamy richness of the mascarpone while complementing the sweet crab and anise-like fennel for a fresh, elegant start. Next came the Trivento Reserve Malbec 2024, a classic crowd-pleaser with deep ruby hues and violet tinges. On the nose, ripe blackberries, juicy plums, and violets intertwined with gentle vanilla and sweet spice from French oak aging. On the palate, it was generous yet balanced—soft tannins, lively acidity, and a persistent, harmonious finish. This poured alongside the Second Course: Braised Lamb Shoulder with Potato Purée. The wine’s plush dark fruit and subtle oak notes embraced the tender, savory lamb, while its freshness lifted the richness of the braise and creamy potato, creating a comforting yet sophisticated pairing. The highlight for many was the Third Course, featuring two powerhouse reds: the Trivento Reserve Maximum Red Blend 2023 (a bold Malbec-dominant blend) and the flagship Trivento Eolo 2021, that century-old-vine masterpiece. The Eolo delivered intense aromas of cherry, raspberry, and floral notes, evolving into a powerful yet refined palate with silky tannins, ripe fruit concentration, and a long, elegant finish—classic Luján de Cuyo character with modern freshness. Paired with Filet Mignon sauced in Black Garlic Béarnaise. The steak’s juicy tenderness met its match in the Eolo’s structured fruit and spice, while the black garlic’s umami depth amplified the wine’s complexity. Earthy, luxurious, and utterly memorable. To close, the Trivento Golden Reserve 2022—a premium single-vineyard expression from old vines—brought elegance and power. Deep purple-red with violet tones, it offered a bouquet of berry fruits, plum jam, coffee, tobacco, and subtle floral hints. On the palate, it was ripe, juicy, and balanced, with silky tannins, vibrant intensity, and a long, dry finish. The Fourth Course: Decadent Chocolate Cake with Berry Compote and Black Truffle. The wine’s dark fruit and subtle spice harmonized with the rich chocolate, while the berry compote echoed its berry notes, and the black truffle added an intriguing savory layer for a luxurious, lingering finale. Under Germán Di Césare’s warm guidance—sharing insights into terroir, history, and heartfelt gratitude—the evening felt illuminating and intimate. Stories of Andean mountains, ancient vines, and meticulous craftsmanship brought every sip to life. For wine enthusiasts and food lovers alike, it was a powerful reminder of why Argentine Malbec continues to captivate: balance, authenticity, and endless pairing potential. If you’re passionate about Malbec or simply love exceptional wine dinners, keep an eye out for future Trivento events—they’re not to be missed. Cheers to more nights like this!
Balancing Vines and Life: An Inspiring Conversation with Laura Catena
The halls of Wine Paris buzzed with energy—sommeliers debating vintages, winemakers sharing stories, enthusiasts toasting discoveries—and there I was, having the absolute honor of interviewing Laura Catena. This trailblazing woman wears many “red boinas”: fourth-generation vintner at the iconic Catena Zapata in Argentina, medical doctor and founder of Luca Wines—her heartfelt project since 1999 to champion small, old-vine, family-owned vineyards in Mendoza’s Uco Valley, rescuing century-old treasures and crafting wines that truly capture their heritage and soul. I’ve admired Laura for years—not just for her tireless preservation of ancient vines and groundbreaking contributions to wine science through the Catena Institute of Wine, but for how authentically she balances it all as a devoted mother, supportive wife, and down-to-earth advocate who champions moderation in alcohol as a key part of a vibrant, health-conscious life. Our conversation built beautifully on our earlier recording for her upcoming YouTube limited series on old vines (set to release this year—get ready!). We celebrated her remarkable 26-year push to elevate old vines—now finally earning the recognition they deserve—before shifting to the deeper topic: how she maintains genuine life balance amid such an intense career. Drawing from her medical expertise, Laura is direct: heavy drinking poses real harm, but light-to-moderate wine consumption—especially when embraced within the Mediterranean diet—can align with potential benefits, such as reduced heart disease risk, when approached responsibly and in consultation with a doctor. Finding Equilibrium Through Reflection Laura finds much of her personal balance in self-help books, which serve as gentle yet powerful prompts for reflection. “They prompt you to think about your goals, prioritize tasks, and avoid burnout,” she shared. As a physician, she highlighted a striking fact: 40% of cancer and heart disease risks stem from modifiable habits like smoking, inactivity, excess weight, too much sun, and heavy drinking—insights she gained from her extensive medical training. When Passion Turns Work into Joy For Laura, work feels like pure fulfillment rather than a burden. She once wrote half a book during a flight delay in Milan, effortlessly weaving productivity with the simple pleasures of a delicious meal and a glass of wine. “I love my work,” she said warmly, “so it doesn’t feel like a burden.” She actively encourages her team to take real vacations—“Nothing’s gonna happen in two weeks!”—to guard against burnout, while her own brief breaks recharge her creativity and spark new ideas. Practical, Evidence-Based Wellness Her health routines are grounded in science and remarkably approachable: – The Mediterranean diet—bursting with fresh produce, fish, whole grains, olive oil, moderate meat, and optional red wine in moderation—is associated with lower risks of cancer, heart disease, dementia, and improved mental well-being. In Argentina’s climate, these ingredients feel like second nature. – Daily dog walks with Nala (in California) and Tedy (in Argentina) become multitasking masterpieces: time for podcasts (*The Economist*, *Gastro Pod*), audiobooks in French, Italian, Spanish, or English, or simply soaking in nature’s quiet—rounded out by quick morning posture and strength exercises. – Sleep is sacred: “I prioritize 7 hours to function well and avoid being rude.” She manages jet lag smartly with the “Timeshifter” app for light exposure, occasional melatonin (which works beautifully for her, even if partly placebo), and a strict no-alcohol-before-bed rule. Embracing Family with Honesty and Grace Laura is refreshingly candid about family life. After 30 years of marriage, she admits her work focus can sometimes mean “neglecting” her incredibly supportive husband. With her children, she embraces the “accepting B minus/C plus” mindset—allowing imperfections like forgotten lunches or a messy house to teach resilience, adaptability, and how to navigate life’s real-world curveballs. Empowering Advice for Women in Wine When I asked for her guidance for women entering the industry, Laura’s words were empowering and practical: “Find your passion and be patient.” Pursue your niche—even if it takes decades for recognition to arrive (old vines being the perfect example). Build knowledge methodically through books like *Wine for Dummies*, podcasts, and winery visits. Leverage your existing strengths—her medical background uniquely bridges wine and health. And stay grounded financially: keep a day job or start in entry-level roles to gain experience. A Playful Twist: The Dream Wine Companion To lighten things up, I posed a fun question: If you could share a bottle with anyone, dead or alive, who would it be? Without missing a beat, Laura chose Bad Bunny, the global reggaeton superstar. It’s such a delightful window into her open, vibrant spirit—imagining lively conversation, infectious music vibes, and a stunning Luca Malbec flowing freely. The joy that great wine and great tunes can create together is universal! Laura Catena’s life is a beautiful reminder that true balance flows from work you passionately love, mindful health habits (moderation in alcohol included), and the grace to embrace imperfections. Through Luca Wines and her broader vision, she’s not only safeguarding ancient vines for future generations—she’s inspiring us all to live with more intention, joy, and heart. Thank you, Laura, for the warmth, wisdom, and inspiration. Here’s to old vines, thoughtful sips, and lives full of flavor and vitality!
A Conversation with Isabelle Legeron MW: The Heart and Soul of RAW WINE
I had the pleasure of interviewing Isabelle Legeron MW, founder of RAW WINE, amid the electric atmosphere of the RAW WINE fair in Paris. As someone who has long admired her work, I’m continually struck by how much she embodies—not just as the first French woman to become a Master of Wine, but as an environmental advocate, mother, and remarkably grounded person who has quietly reshaped the way so many of us think about wine. Her story begins on a family farm in the Cognac region of France, where agriculture was woven into her earliest memories. There, she witnessed firsthand the heavy toll industrial farming and pesticides exacted on health and the land. Those experiences instilled in her a lifelong conviction: the best way forward is to work *with* nature, never against it. That conviction found new depth during her rigorous Master of Wine studies, when she discovered what she calls an “alternative wine world.” Small producers crafting low-intervention wines—free of excessive additives, high sulfites, or chemical shortcuts—captivated her completely. These wines tasted alive, authentic, and resonant in ways conventional ones never had, perfectly mirroring the values she had carried since childhood. “It turned my life on its head,” she told me. The wines seized her both on the palate and philosophically, sparking a dedication that would define her path. At the time, natural wine lacked real visibility or infrastructure in the UK, where she was based. In 2012 she responded by founding RAW WINE: a platform to celebrate these growers, build community, demand greater transparency, and forge direct connections between makers and drinkers through fairs, education, and honest conversation. Those original guiding principles remain as vital today as they were then. Isabelle deliberately designed RAW WINE as an inclusive space where growers could speak with both trade professionals and everyday consumers. “Consumers are crucial—they buy the wine,” she emphasized. Unlike many closed-door industry tastings, RAW WINE opens its doors wide, inviting real dialogue across every table. Transparency has always been another cornerstone. Twenty years ago, most people had little idea what happened inside the bottle—how much sulfites dioxide was added, or what other interventions took place. RAW WINE set out to change that by encouraging growers to share these details openly and without judgment, so people could choose with knowledge rather than guesswork. Above all, though, the mission is about serving nature. Isabelle champions organic and minimal-intervention wines to reduce viticulture’s environmental burden. She personally notices a tangible difference: these “living wines” feel more vibrant and harmonious in the body than their conventional counterparts. She often uses the term “living wine” for low-intervention styles – typically ≤30 ppm sulfites, unfiltered, teeming with visible microbial life under a microscope—though she readily acknowledges that “natural wine” has become the more familiar label. That sense of life and vitality runs deep in her own memories, too. One stands out vividly: the rich, heady smell of fermenting grape juice from childhood days spent helping her grandfather in the family winery. That sweet-tangy aroma of active fermentation still transports her instantly back to the harvest bustle on the farm. It’s the very same lively, yeasty energy she finds—and loves—in the young pét-nats she enjoys today: fresh, fizzy wines bottled while fermentation is still underway, carrying echoes of the unpolished, elemental magic she first encountered as a girl. For Isabelle, it’s a straight line from a childhood scent to her lifelong devotion to living, low-intervention wines. The conversation turned even more personal when I asked who she would most want to share a bottle with, and why. Her answer came without hesitation and carried quiet weight: her late father, who died of lung cancer when she was just 25. “He never had the chance to taste the kind of beautiful wine I work with now,” she said, “the kind he could never have afforded back then.” In that imagined evening she would pour him something exceptional and walk him through her journey—from the Cognac farm where he raised her amid soil and seasons, to becoming France’s first female Master of Wine and founding RAW WINE. It would be her way of honoring the agricultural roots he gave her and showing him how deeply his legacy still runs through everything she does. Her words hit especially close to home for me. I lost my own father to cancer when I was 23, so hearing her speak about that unfinished conversation—that wish to share a bottle and a story—felt achingly familiar. It reminded me how often the most powerful moments in wine have little to do with vintage or score, and everything to do with memory, gratitude, and the people we wish could still raise a glass with us. Isabelle has also navigated the natural wine world as a woman, facing more scrutiny and criticism than some of her male counterparts. Her advice to others entering the industry is characteristically direct and grounded: – Prepare for hardship—recognize the gender-based challenges, but keep going. – Trust your instincts—tune out the external noise and follow your own intuition rather than trying to please everyone. – Work diligently—there are no shortcuts; real success comes from consistent effort. Even with a demanding travel schedule, she balances family life and the occasional escape into foraging—though she admits it’s difficult to find time during peak seasons like autumn. Looking ahead, she is eager to bring RAW WINE to high-potential emerging markets. These are regions with a new generation of wine drinkers who are excited to embrace the fun and joy of wine, rather than being “educated” into the often exclusive, traditional, and occasion-driven world of classic wines. Promising markets could include Brazil and several rapidly developing Asian countries. While high costs and logistical challenges remain significant hurdles, she remains optimistic and hopeful about the possibilities. Isabelle Legeron’s path reflects an unwavering commitment to authenticity, resilience, and respect for the natural world. Through RAW WINE she is not only showcasing a different kind of wine; she is empowering consumers, uplifting small growers, and
The Adventurous Soul Behind Arsenio Winery and Olive Oil
Fellow wine lovers, if you’ve ever dreamed of a bottle that whispers stories of far-off lands while rooting you firmly in the earth’s embrace, let me introduce you to Arsenio—a winery that’s not just producing wine, but crafting a multicultural legacy. From ancient Armenian roots to the sun-drenched hills of Tuscany, an adventurous, charming old soul with a mathematician’s precision chases dreams through olive groves. A confident deep thinker, he weaves heritage, philosophy, and mastery into every sip and every golden drop. Arsen, born in Málaga, Spain, in 2000, is Armenian by blood and a true citizen of the world. With a Bachelor’s in Pure Mathematics from New York University—specializing in differential equations and chaos theory—and a Master’s in Vineyard and Winery Management from Bordeaux Sciences Agro, plus his WSET Diploma earned in 2024, he’s the perfect blend of analytical mind and passionate artist. “I’m already 25,” he commented with a broad smile and spring in his step, sneakers firmly planted on the sandstone soils of his Florence vineyard. But as he explained, exceptional wine (and olive oil) takes time, and he’s in it for the long haul. I was lucky enough to be invited for a private, one-on-one visit with Arsen Khachaturyants, the visionary founder of Arsenio. It was just the two of us, getting to know each other over glasses of his emerging vintages and samples of his exquisite olive oil. My recent visit to Arsen’s estate was energizing and transformative—like an ice-cold morning plunge into a crisp Tuscan stream. I dove headfirst into his fascinating journey: blending Armenian heritage with Tuscan character, a confident visionary pursuing exciting new projects, channeling his culinary passion with mathematical precision, interwoven with soul-stirring music—all grounded in deep family values. His philosophy? Humans are an integral part of nature, reconciling progress with environmental respect. Arsenio’s 10 hectares span three distinct Tuscan areas: Florence, Olena in Chianti Classico, and near Volterra by the coast—all organically farmed. In Florence, where it all began in 2020, you’ll find Sangiovese, Mammolo, Colorino, Pugnitello, Canaiolo, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a nod to his roots with Areni Noir. At 300 meters above sea level on sandstone, with breezes from the Apennines, it’s a hillside haven within the Renaissance city itself. The unofficial 2023 harvest hinted at greatness, which I concur it was “great” labeled Y23 and 2024’s official vintage is set for release in 2027. But it’s not just vines; Arsen’s passion extends to olive groves that dot these landscapes, producing oil that’s as golden and profound as his wines. Walking through those groves with him, he shared how the same borderless vision applies—one golden drop at a time, honoring the saline winds and sun-drenched hills. “Travel has taught me to respect diversity without altering it,” he said, as we tasted the peppery, vibrant olive oil straight from the press. It’s a partnership between human and nature, much like his winemaking. In Chianti Classico’s Olena estate, an eight-hectare gem with three planted to vines, dense forests create a micro-terroir of clay and silt, protecting against winds and amplifying day-night swings. Sangiovese dominates, joined by Cabernet Franc and Grenache for climate adaptability. An old farmhouse is being restored into a intimate cellar— “a place where nothing interrupts your connection with the wine,” as Arsen put it. And near Volterra, the coastal influence shines with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Sangiovese. The wines are poised to become future icons, each stemming from a deeply personal relationship with the land, expressing the full potential of its terroir through a pursuit of excellence and uncompromising freedom of interpretation. The flagship is an IGT Toscana, with only one wine produced under the Chianti Classico denomination: The labels, designed by Armenian artists, are small stories in themselves. Yeter shows Arsen in reflection, engaging with chaos; Anddem portrays him pushing forward against the wind; Screeching Soil captures Chianti’s rugged soils; Same Sky’s round shape underscores universality. “Searching for a new language means breaking rules,” Arsen told me, his eyes lighting up. These aren’t uniform—they’re soloists, each telling a tale. As we shared stories, music playing softly in the background—perhaps a nod to his soul-stirring influences—Arsen’s deep family values shone through. We bonded over our shared love for composers Hans Zimmer and Max Richter. I proudly introduced him to my cousin’s songs—a remarkably talented composer and artist who, coincidentally, studied under Hans Zimmer himself. Arsen was visibly moved by the music, and it added another layer of connection to an already profound afternoon. Supported by his loved ones, he’s laying foundations for a new wine chapter, one that speaks to curious souls like us. Huge thanks to Arsen for his warmth and this profound experience. Here’s to the chapters ahead—I’m thrilled to watch (and taste) what unfolds. If you crave innovation wrapped in tradition, keep your eyes on Arsenio. The vines—and olives—are only just beginning.
Wine of Austria Stole the Spotlight at Wine Paris
Wine Paris, organized by Vinexposium—the world’s leading wine and spirits event organizer—remains the premier global trade fair for the industry. Held annually at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, it brings together thousands of exhibitors (over 6,500 in 2026!), producers, buyers, and professionals from dozens of countries for three intense days of tastings, masterclasses, B2B meetings, and high-stakes networking. It’s far more than a show—it’s the ultimate barometer of global wine trends, influence, and innovation, drawing massive crowds and transforming Paris into the epicenter of the wine world. This was my first year working behind the Wine of Austria stand, and let me tell you—it’s a completely different experience from just attending. Instead of wandering the aisles as a visitor, I was right there in the heart of it: interviewing the producers, tasting their wines straight from the source, hearing their unfiltered stories up close, and watching them light up as they shared their journeys with new clients, curious enthusiasts, sommeliers, and buyers from around the world. There’s something profoundly unforgettable about being the bridge—pouring a glass, starting a conversation, and seeing eyes widen as someone truly connects with the wine and the person behind it. The vulnerability, the pride, the quiet triumphs in those exchanges—it all felt raw and real. Being part of that energy, day after day, left me buzzing long after the lights went down. The energy at the Wine of Austria stand was palpable: the room crackled with unfiltered intensity—sharp conversations, fearless pours, and producers dropping raw truths about what makes these wines so genuinely provocative. Their bottles cut straight through the clutter—bold, unapologetic, demanding attention—while every glass sparked real, electric connections, channeling raw passion directly from vineyard terroir to the table, no compromises allowed. The labels whisper personal stories, carrying the artistic touch of generations past and turning each bottle into a true family heirloom. Beneath them lie the souls of winemakers and their ancestors, with each vine rooted in history stretching back over 600 years. These producers are guardians of legacy. One remembers childhood footsteps between the rows; another draws strength from her mother stepping into her own, finding peace in nature’s rhythm and transforming small-family silence into vibrant, soul-stirring wines. Multi-generational hands keep traditions alive while infusing fresh passion into every harvest. From the fiery reds of Burgenland to the mineral-crisp whites of Wachau, it’s all about passing the torch: bottling emotion, memory, heritage, and that unbreakable bond between family and soil. Hearing these producers share their worlds in their own words was one of the most powerful parts of the fair. Here are some of the standout moments: Each of these wineries has a story to share, each unique and personal: Why chase this endless story? To preserve what came before, to hand it forward, and to let every sip echo centuries of love for the land. Thank you to everyone who showed up with curiosity, shared wines and zero pretense—you elevated the entire experience. To these producers who bring the real edge, and to every palate that tasted it: this is only the beginning. Here’s to fearless pours, boundary-pushing bottles, and collaborations that refuse to play it safe. What an electric way to kick off the year in wine! Stay tuned for more on the wines shared and discovered.
Falling Head Over Heels in Piemonte: My First Grandi Langhe Adventure
If you’re a wine lover, there are certain experiences that hit you like a perfectly aged Barolo—deep, layered, unforgettable. My first time at Grandi Langhe in Turin was exactly that kind of moment. The excitement kicked off even before the main tastings, with opening festivities on Sunday, January 25. The Consorzio Piemonte Land of Wine organized a fantastic Gala Dinner followed by a lively walk-around tasting at the iconic Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile in Turin. Surrounded by an incredible collection of vintage and modern cars from every era, we sipped Piemonte wines amid gleaming Ferraris, classic Fiats, and automotive legends. It was the perfect, stylish prelude—blending Turin’s industrial heritage with its world-class wine culture—to set the tone for what was to come. What a way to kick things off! Then came the heart of the event: two full days of pure wine bliss on Monday, January 26, and Tuesday, January 27 with over 500 producers on site. Hosted at the stunning OGR Torino—a former locomotive factory reborn as a sleek cultural powerhouse—Grandi Langhe gathered hundreds of producers from Langhe, Roero, and across all of Piemonte, now showcasing the incredible breadth of the region’s appellations. It’s professionally run, beautifully organized, and blissfully free of overwhelming crowds. Absolute heaven for any enthusiast. Over 700 labels (and in recent editions, even more with the expanded Piemonte focus) in the dedicated press room (130 wines in the press room alone, 47 Barolos and 24 Barbarescos among others) allowed us to dive headfirst into the region. Walk over to the stands for a treasure trove of wines. Recent-vintage Barolos and Barbarescos stole the show with their elegance and structure, the unmistakable minerality screams Piemonte terroir. But I was equally smitten by the bright Roero Arneis and Nascetta, the crisp Timorasso, the lively Alta Langa sparklers, and so much more. Every glass felt like a love letter from the hills, crafted with care and deep respect for the land. So Many Incredible Producers—Here Are Just a Few That Stole My Heart One of the greatest joys of Grandi Langhe was meeting so many passionate, talented producers in person. There were hundreds of stands, each telling its own story, and it was impossible to taste everything—but the ones I did meet left lasting impressions. Here are just a few standouts that made my notebook fill up fast and my heart race: These are just a handful—the region is bursting with talent, and every conversation added another layer to why Piemonte feels so special. I left with a long list of estates I now dream of visiting. Yet the wines, as extraordinary as they were, weren’t even the best part. The real magic happened in the conversations. Meeting the producers face-to-face turned tasting into something intimate and alive. I listened, wide-eyed, as winemakers shared multi-generational family stories, their quiet philosophies on minimal intervention or perfect oak choices, and that fierce, centuries-old love affair with their vineyards. These weren’t sales talks—they were heartfelt glimpses into why Piemonte wines taste the way they do: soulful, honest, alive. Every chat made the next sip taste richer, more meaningful. And then came the evenings—oh, the evenings! On Monday, January 26, the Alta Langa Consortium invited us to an exclusive Alta Langa after Grandi Langhe event at the breathtaking Teatro Regio, Turin’s iconic opera house. Picture this: over 50 labels of Piemonte’s refined, traditional-method sparkling wines flowing freely in a happy-hour-style setting, while the Regio Ensemble filled the gilded halls with live opera. The bubbles danced on the palate, the music soared, and the whole night felt like a dream you never want to wake from. The next evening, Tuesday, January 27, the Consorzio Freisa di Chieri and Consorzio Erbaluce di Caluso welcomed us to a special dinner right in the historic heart of Turin—Piazza Carignano. The dinner took place at the legendary Caffè Gelateria Pepino, a historic Turin institution founded in 1884 and famous for inventing the Il Penguino dessert. Surrounded by the café’s timeless elegance and the centuries-old beauty of the piazza, we explored the charming, often-under-the-radar wines of the Turin hills: vibrant Freisa di Chieri and Erbaluce di Caluso in every style—fresh annata, aged vintages, passito and sparkling versions. Guided by the consortia president, board members, and passionate winemakers, it was the perfect reminder of Piemonte’s astonishing diversity. These are wines that surprise, delight, and beg to be shared. A special treat was shared during the evening from Gian Luigi Orsolani, fourth generation winemaker with over 125 years of history in a glass of Orsolani Caluso Passito, a decadent wine made from dried Erbaluce grapes in the Caluso area. Golden-hued, honeyed, with notes of dried apricot, almond, candied citrus, and a touch of noble botrytis complexity, it was an exquisite, velvety finale—intensely aromatic yet beautifully balanced with refreshing acidity. Sipping it slowly amid the warm glow Zabaglione felt like the ultimate Piemonte indulgence. One of the most inspiring highlights was discovering the Urban Vineyards Association (U.V.A.) through Luca Balbiano, the passionate third-generation winemaker from Cantine Balbiano and the association’s founder and honorary president. Luca shared his remarkable story of reviving the historic Vigna della Regina—a royal vineyard tucked within Turin’s Villa della Regina, where Freisa vines now thrive in an urban setting, producing one of Italy’s few certified DOC urban cru wines. Inspired by that project, he created the Urban Vineyards Association in 2019 to connect and promote historical urban vineyards worldwide—from Turin’s city vines to rooftops in New York (Rooftop Reds) and beyond. It’s a global network celebrating how vines can bridge tradition, sustainability, culture, and urban life, turning city landscapes into living heritage sites. Hearing Luca’s vision firsthand—about regenerating green spaces, boosting proximity tourism, and preserving viticultural history right in the heart of cities—was truly eye-opening and added such a fresh, innovative layer to Piemonte’s already rich wine narrative. And because no unforgettable Italian evening is complete without a little dolce indulgence, that Tuesday night at Pepino I tried my very first Il Penguino Crema Pepino—the legendary Turin
Scacciadiavoli Brut Rosé: The Devil-Chasing Sparkler
Oh, buckle up, bubbly lovers—this Scacciadiavoli Brut Rosé from the legendary Cantina Scacciadiavoli is like a cheeky Italian whisper saying, “Life’s too short for flat vibes!” Hailing from the sun-kissed hills of Montefalco in Umbria, Italy, this winery’s been crafting wines since the 1800s, with a name that literally means “devil-chaser” The region’s volcanic soils and gentle breezes give it that extra zing, turning humble grapes into liquid fireworks. Winemaking here is all about that classic Italian flair: hand-picked 100% Sagrantino grapes get the royal treatment with the Metodo Classico (think Champagne method, but with more Mediterranean soul), aged min 24 months sur lie fermenting in the bottle for that fine, celebratory fizz. It’s aged just right to keep things fresh without losing the fun—pure artisanal wizardry that lets the terroir shine through every bubble. Style-wise, this is your go-to sparkling rosé for when you want elegance with a wink: brut-dry for that crisp edge, but bursting with playful energy. It’s the rosé that dances on your tongue, light yet structured, like a summer fling that turns into your new bestie. Tasting notes? Get ready to swoon: a pale salmon glow in the glass, unleashing a floral explosion of wild strawberries, red apples, and a whisper of brioche crust—fresh as a morning jog through an orchard. On the palate, it’s a lively tango of cranberry zip, ginger spice, and white pepper kick, all wrapped in silky bubbles and zesty acidity that lingers like a flirty goodbye. One sip, and you’re hooked—elegant, savory, and oh-so-refreshing! For fun food pairings, pop this open with seafood towers , charcuterie boards loaded with prosciutto and fresh cheeses, or even a Sicilian Fish Stew. It’s the ultimate mood-lifter for rooftop toasts, beach picnics, or just because—evoking that carefree, sun-drenched euphoria where worries bubble away and every moment feels like a victory lap. Cheers to chasing devils with delight! Fun Fact: The winery’s name literally means “Devil-Chaser” because, back in the 19th century, the vineyard sat right next to a tiny village where an exorcist was once called in to banish a pesky demon. Locals swear the first bottles of sparkling Sagrantino were so good that even the devil fled in delight… and never came back!
Balthasar Ress Fine Wines, Finer Moments
A recent visit to Balthasar Ress, one of the Rheingau’s premier VDP-certified organic wineries, turned into an unforgettable afternoon of wine, stories, and genuine connection. Nestled in the heart of Hattenheim, this family-run estate—founded in 1870 by the butcher-turned-host Balthasar Ress—has evolved into a beacon of fine Riesling and increasingly acclaimed Pinot Noir, all while embracing organic viticulture and a philosophy of “Fein Sei Der Wein” (And Fine Be The Wine). It was also a special pleasure to meet Christian Ress, the passionate managing director who carries forward the family legacy with vision and warmth, alongside his father Stefan Ress, whose experience and quiet presence added depth and history to the occasion. Their hospitality made the visit feel like stepping into a family home rather than just a winery tour. The highlight was a private tasting led by head winemaker Markus Roll and export manager Marc Pohl. Both brought infectious passion and candor to the table, turning what could have been a standard tasting into a lively conversation about life, dreams, and the soul of German wine. We dove straight into their wines—elegant, precise Rieslings from top sites like Rüdesheim Berg Rottland and Hattenheim Nussbrunnen, alongside promising Pinot Noirs that showcase the estate’s growing red focus. The pours revealed layers of minerality, freshness, and site-specific character, hallmarks of the Rheingau’s steep slopes and slate soils. To break the ice (and reveal personalities beyond the bottles), we asked each a series of fun, offbeat questions: Describe your identity with three non-wine-describing words? Markus chose Riesling, terroir, taste—a playful nod to what clearly defines him, even if he tried to avoid wine terms! Marc went with elegant, long-lasting, freshness—words that perfectly mirror the style he champions in export markets. If you could share one bottle of your wine with a person (dead or alive), who would it be and why? Markus picked his wife, sharing a bottle of Bischofsberg because it’s “elegant and easy to share, great price relationship.” A sweet, grounded choice from someone deeply rooted in the craft. Marc humorously selected George Clooney and Brad Pitt, pairing them with Würzgarten for their “fantastic characters”—a fun, star-studded fantasy that had everyone laughing. When you were a kid, what was your dream job? Markus dreamed of being a chef (but noted the lousy hours), pivoting at age 9 to winemaking—a precocious decision that’s clearly paid off. Marc wanted to be a locomotive driver, inspired by his grandpa’s love of trains—a charming glimpse into a childhood fascination with movement and journeys. If you weren’t working with wine, what would you do? Both leaned toward hospitality: Marc mentioned F&B Manager, fitting his background in hotels and service. The conversation turned reflective as they shared memorable moments: Markus recalled a profound tasting with Philipp Wittmann surrounded by great Burgundies (sparking new thoughts on oak influence), falling in love with Sauvignon Blanc during a trip to South Styria, and joyful Champagne sessions with friends. Marc spoke of starting in the army’s officers’ casino as a waiter, his hotel school education in Heidelberg that ignited his wine passion, and a pivotal role at Schloss Vollrads—where he fell for the Rheingau’s perfect blend of Mosel’s elegance and Rheinhessen’s opulent fruit and body. We tackled bigger questions too, like engaging Generation Z, often seen as shying away from wine. Marc’s response was refreshingly honest “Younger generations consume less as they use different things like marijuana and drink RTDs. My task is not to encourage others to drink wine—my task is to find people who wish to have a good bottle of wine.” He emphasized education—helping consumers learn how to enjoy wine to add pleasure—without ever pushing alcohol. On German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) gaining global recognition, Markus was optimistic as it’s getting better and better. He raved about recent tastings, blown away by the quality leap in producers like Huber over the last five years, and noted exciting improvements in German Chardonnay too. Dreaming bigger, Markus shared a wish to experiment with Southern Hemisphere reds—Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Franc and Merlot, and their blends—on Balthasar Ress vineyards. His dream by 2030? Simply retirement, still fueled by his love to the wine. Advice for the next generation of winemakers came straight from the heart: Markus: “Try as many wines as you can, be loyal to your own style, and just do it.” Marc: “Be self-confident and pick your style.” Finally, what would surprise people about them? Markus laughed: “I’m an open book—I’m not as grumpy as I look.” (He doesn’t look grumpy at all—quite the opposite!) The tasting itself was a masterclass in the estate’s evolution. Markus introduced their exciting new concept launching in 2026, inspired by the multi-vintage approach of Dreissigacker’s Vintages series: four Erste Lage vineyards across four vintages (starting with 2019), blended to create wines that transcend individual vintage challenges. With shorter harvest windows and ripeness issues becoming less dominant in the blend, the goal is classic expression through three pillars—variety, region, and winery identity. The 2019 vintage also marked the estate’s official organic certification. Standout wines we tasted included: 2024 Goose Trail Souvignier Gris: PiWi trailblazer from the soggy riverbank spot. Explosive muscat vibes, almond edge, passionfruit kick. Smooth but a touch lean in the middle—crisp tart acid snaps it awake. Grab this funky pioneer now! 2024 Von unserem Riesling: Pure, no-nonsense Rheingau Riesling. Zesty citrus, green apple snap, steely minerality. Bone-dry, mouth-watering acidity drives it hard. Everyday hero that demands another glass—don’t wait! 2023 Rüdesheimer trocken: Steep-slope power. Fresh citrus blast, green apple crunch, subtle stone fruit and floral lift. Razor-sharp dryness, vibrant energy. Classic Rüdesheim punch—drink up fast! 2023 Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg: Erste Lage elegance. Yellow fruit rush, passionfruit exoticism, kiwi-lime zing, lemon balm whisper. Precise, juicy, mineral spine. Seductive yet serious—buy before it’s gone! 2023 Hallgartener Würzgarten: Erste Lage spice bomb. Ripe stone fruit, floral intensity, herbal edge, tight minerality. Focused, structured, long finish. Demands attention—stock up on this gem! 2023 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg: Erste Lage benchmark. Peach-yellow apple
Dreissigacker Uncorked: Rheinhessen Magic
As the crisp autumn air swept through the rolling hills of Rheinhessen, I found myself embarking on an unforgettable winery tour at Weingut Dreissigacker. Accompanied by Samuel Kirr, the charismatic International Sales Manager whose passion for the estate’s wines is as infectious as the region’s vibrant Rieslings, we delved into the heart of this family-run operation. Nestled in the picturesque villages of Bechtheim and Westhofen, Dreissigacker isn’t just a winery—it’s a testament to centuries-old traditions blended with modern innovation. If you’re a wine enthusiast seeking purity, complexity, and a touch of exclusivity, this is a story you’ll savor. The Dreissigacker family’s winemaking legacy traces back to the 18th century, but the modern chapter began under Jochen Dreissigacker. He crafted his first wine in 2001 and fully took the reins in 2005, transforming the estate into a beacon of quality-driven production. In 2018, they unveiled a state-of-the-art winery designed with capacity for two full vintages, allowing for meticulous aging and blending without compromise. “Our new facility isn’t just about space—it’s about creating the perfect environment for our wines to evolve,” Samuel shared during our walk through the gleaming cellars. Spanning approximately 55 hectares of vineyards, the estate has been organic since 2007, with biodynamic practices introduced around 2020. Yields are deliberately “dropped” to concentrate flavors, ensuring every grape packs a punch of intensity. Dreissigacker channels their grapes into premium expressions, predominantly Riesling. Their philosophy is simple: control quality from vine to bottle. The varietal focus is laser-sharp: about 60% Riesling, complemented by Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Rosés and reds make up less than 5% of production, keeping the spotlight on whites that capture Rheinhessen’s terroir. Competitive edges shine through old-vine crus like Aulerde, Kirchspiel, and Morstein—sites renowned for their mineral-driven soils—and an unwavering commitment to sustainability. Initiatives in the cellar, such as flexible tank setups and cooling systems, allow for precise temperature control, minimizing intervention while maximizing expression. At Dreissigacker, the mantra is clear: prioritize quality to build a lasting brand. Jochen, alongside Cellar Master Achim, as Jochen is closely involved in the blending process orchestrating their range of wines like a conductor of a symphony. During harvest, a team of 10 specialists handles everything from sugar measurements to pressing, while year-round, just three core staff maintain the cellar’s rhythm. Their product strategy is tiered for accessibility and depth. The entry-level Riesling serves as the “business card” of the winery—fruit-driven and versatile. Mid-tier offerings like the multi-vintage blend act as a bridge, while single-site gems target collectors. Innovation extends to NFT pre-sales for high-end releases, allowing customers to reserve future bottles at half price, with unsold stock aged five years and sold at a premium. The highlight of the tour was the tasting lineup, where Dreissigacker’s elegant, mineral-laced style shone through. Each wine told a story of terroir, craftsmanship, and patience. Here’s what stood out: Samuel’s quotes peppered our conversation, bringing the philosophy to life: “We’re not chasing volume; we’re crafting experiences. From dropping yields to biodynamic practices, every decision elevates the grape.” In a sea of producers, Weingut Dreissigacker is a winery that honors its Rheinhessen roots while eyeing global horizons. If you’re planning a visit to Bechtheim or Westhofen, make Dreissigacker a must—pair it with Samuel’s insights, and you’ll leave with more than bottles; you’ll carry a piece of their passion.