Montefalco isn’t measured in hectares or vintages, but in the warmth, generosity, and passion of those who call it home.
As the sun slipped behind the Umbrian hills, we arrived at Carapace—the extraordinary winery commissioned by the Lunelli family and designed by renowned sculptor and architect Arnaldo Pomodoro. Rising from the vineyards like a bronze sculpture emerging from the earth, the winery feels less like a building and more like a monument to the land itself.
At the entrance stands a striking symbol that appears throughout the estate and on the Carapace labels. At first glance it resembles a tribal emblem, but the meaning becomes clearer when viewed in the context of the winery. Encircled within a protective form, the central figure evokes both a vine and a shield—a visual representation of growth, permanence, and protection. It reflects the very concept of a carapace: a shell safeguarding what lies within. Much like Sagrantino itself, the symbol speaks of strength, structure, longevity, and a profound connection between earth and vine.
And what better place to explore those ideas than around a dinner table filled with the people who dedicate their lives to this region?
Aperitivo Among Friends
The evening began outdoors with an aperitivo overlooking the vineyards as Montefalco glowed in the fading light. Glasses clinked, conversations flowed effortlessly, and winemakers mingled with journalists not as presenters but as friends welcoming guests into their home.
Dinner followed inside, where each table hosted three winemakers or winery representatives, creating an atmosphere that felt intimate, engaging, and wonderfully unfiltered. There were no formal speeches or carefully rehearsed presentations—just stories, laughter, debates about vintages, and plenty of friendly banter.
Our host for the evening was Alessandro Lunelli, joined by Filippo Antonelli of Cantina Antonelli and members of several Montefalco wine families such as Scacciadiavoli, Tenuta Cecchi, Tenuta Bellafonte, Cantina Laveneranda, Cantina Le Climate, Cantina Goretti and Poderi Moretti. It was a rare opportunity to share a meal with the people shaping the future of the region while hearing firsthand how they interpret one of Italy’s most distinctive grape varieties.
A Menu Rooted in Umbria
The menu was a celebration of local ingredients and Umbrian comfort.
We began with a modern interpretation of eggplant parmigiana before moving to a beautifully creamy risotto enriched with cultured butter, saffron from nearby Cascia, and wild asparagus. The main course showcased guinea fowl accompanied by a rustic crostino with salmì, soft potato, and black truffle—a dish that seemed purpose-built for mature Sagrantino.
The food never competed with the wines; it amplified them, revealing why Sagrantino has always been a grape meant for the table.
Large Formats, Old Vintages, and the Magic of Time
Then came the bottles.
Large formats appeared alongside older vintages, turning the evening into an unofficial masterclass on the ageing potential of Montefalco’s flagship grape. Seeing wines with ten, fifteen, and even twenty years of evolution side by side was a reminder that Sagrantino’s reputation for power tells only part of the story.
With time, the grape finds grace.
A few wines stood out above all others.
2016 Carapace Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG – Tenute Lunelli
A benchmark expression of modern Sagrantino. Dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, and sweet spice unfold with remarkable precision. The tannins are substantial but polished, carrying layers of black fruit, tobacco, and savory herbs through a long, persistent finish. Powerful, yet surprisingly composed.
2005 Chiusa di Pannone Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG – Antonelli
Perhaps the wine that best demonstrated what maturity can achieve. The fruit had evolved into dried cherry, leather, balsamic herbs, and forest floor while retaining remarkable freshness. The tannins had softened into a fine-grained texture that gave the wine elegance rather than force. A beautiful lesson in patience.
2011 Collenottolo Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG – Tenuta Bellafonte
A more restrained and refined interpretation of Sagrantino. Aromatically lifted with dried flowers, black tea, dark berries, and Mediterranean herbs. The palate balanced depth with energy, showing the tension and precision that increasingly define Montefalco’s contemporary style.
2013 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG – Scacciadiavoli
A wine that married tradition with freshness. Notes of black plum, cocoa, cedar, and dried herbs gave way to a structured palate framed by vibrant acidity. Still youthful, still muscular, yet already revealing impressive complexity.
More Than a Dinner
What made the evening memorable wasn’t simply the quality of the wines.
It was the feeling of being welcomed into a community.
Montefalco may be a small appellation, but its producers share an uncommon sense of collective pride. Around the tables at Carapace, competitors became collaborators, stories were shared freely, and generations of winemaking experience passed from one glass to the next.
As the final pours made their way around the room and conversations stretched long into the night, it became clear that Montefalco’s greatest strength isn’t just Sagrantino.
It’s the people behind it.
And there may be no better place to understand that than beneath the protective shell of Carapace itself.
