Last week in Budapest, I had the privilege of sitting down with Markus Stieger, founder of Wine of Austria, for a late afternoon that felt less like a formal tasting and more like a conversation among friends who happen to be obsessed with great wine. We took over a quiet corner of the hotel lobby—no tasting sheets, no rush, just open bottles, honest reactions, and a growing realization that Austrian wine is in the middle of something extraordinary. Later that evening we carried our shortlist across the city to Tom George Osteria, where the sommelier tasted alongside us and, bottle by bottle, saw his own preconceptions quietly dismantled. What follows are my unfiltered notes from one of the most exciting line-ups I’ve experienced this year.
Tasting the 16 wines in Markus’s portfolio was awakening curiosity with razor-sharp precision, family soul, and frankly insane QPR that makes you question everything you thought you knew about “value.” Austria is quietly making the most electric, soulful, drink-now-or-cry-later wines on earth.
My impressions on the wineries and wines tasted:
- Weingut Aigner: Razor-sharp, icy mineral thrills
- Bio-Weingut Ettl: Wild, juicy, untamed energy
- Weingut Hagn: Soulful, slow-burn deliciousness, family-proud classics
- Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein: Royal, velvet-gloved, biodynamic magic
- Weingut Martin Pasler: Divine, terroir-obsessed, heart-stealing gems
- Weingut PMC Münzenrieder: Luscious, lake-kissed, liquid gold explosions
- Weingut Nastl / Christian Nastl: Funky, fearless, electric natural-wine rebels
- Weingut Tschermonegg: Electric, alpine-crisp, Sauvignon thrill rides & alpine adrenaline rush
- Winzerfamilie Gregor Schup: Plush, ripe, hug-in-a-glass reds
Weingut Aigner “Tradition” Riesling 2024: Lime-zest rocket fuel with wet-stone electricity. Kremstal Riesling that tastes like it was raised on AC/DC and alpine air. Stupidly precise for pocket change. 13 generations of family growers with focus. Screaming wet-stone tension, green apple snap, and a salty finish that punches way above its price.
Weingut Aigner Grüner Veltliner Ried Obere Sandgrube 2021: The serious older sibling. Deeper, smokier, layered with yellow apple, crushed rocks, and a salty kiss that lingers like a dirty promise. Single-vineyard GV royalty.
Ettl Chardonnay Reserve 2023 (Wagram): Two organic brothers having fun. Youthful, playful, honeyed ripeness yet pure as mountain air. Whole-bunch magic that screams “drink me now.”
Ettl “Prädium” Chardonnay 2024: The aromatic big brother – spiced honey, silky texture, built for the American palate that loves a little opulence without losing class.
Weingut Hagn “Ried Hundschupfen” Grüner Veltliner 2024 (Weinviertel): White-pepper grenade, gooseberry, and a flinty backbone that makes your tongue buzz. Classic Weinviertel snap – the wine equivalent of a cold slap from a beautiful stranger.
Weingut Martin Pasler Blaufränkisch Ried Buschenberg 2019 (Mittelburgenland): Brooding dark cherry, black pepper, and iron-rich soil vibes. Five years in bottle have turned it sleek, spicy, and dangerously velvety. The red that makes you forget Pinot ever existed.
PMC Münzenrieder “Tschernosem & Salz” Blaufränkisch-Cabernet Franc 2021: Black-soil power meets lake-breeze freshness. Cassis, graphite, roasted bell pepper, and a saline lick on the finish. Bordeaux varieties grown by someone who actually understands.
Weingut Nastl Ried Käferberg Grüner Veltliner 2023 (Kamptal Reserve level): From one of the coolest sites in Langenlois. Explosive green pineapple, wild herbs, and a mineral tension that feels like chewing on a glacier. Nastl’s masterpiece – quiet, intense, unforgettable.
Weingut Tschermonegg Ried Lubkogel Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Südsteiermark): Classic Styrian insanity: passion-fruit bomb, cut grass, elderflower, tomato leaf, pink grapefruit, and a salty whip-crack finish. SB that grabs you by the collar and demands attention.
Weingut Tschermonegg Ried Oberglanzberg Sauvignon Blanc 2022: Even more feral – blackcurrant bud, kiwi skin, mango, gunflint, and wet slate. One year extra gives it smoky depth without losing the electric high notes. A total knockout.
Winzerfamilie Gregor Schup Rotgipfler Gumpoldskirchen 2023 (Thermenregion): The cult grape whispers seduction: peach melba, almond blossom, nutmeg, and a creamy yet razor-fresh texture. If Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc had a spicy Austrian love child.
Ettl “Römerstein” Zweigelt Reserve 2022: Classic jammy dark fruit, black pepper, moreish tannin. Old-school Austrian red that reminds you why Zweigelt rules the countryside.Ftraminer
Winzerfamilie Gregor Schup Zweigelt Gumpoldskirchen 2023: Crunchy sour cherry, violet pastilles, and white pepper pop. Zero heaviness, all joy – the red you drain with roast pork or straight from the fridge on a summer night.
Winzerfamilie Gregor Schup “Eichkogel” Pinot Noir 2016 (Thermenregion): A nine-year-old Austrian Pinot that costs less than a cocktail in Manhattan. Silky wild strawberry, forest floor, dried rose, black tea and sweet-spice oak. Pure elegance that makes Burgundy hunters weep into their wallets.
Hofkellerei Liechtenstein Blaufränkisch 2020: Modern, fresh, peppery elegance personified. Crunchy blue fruit and a finish that keeps whispering “drink another glass.”
Münzenrieder Muskat Auslese 2023: Dried stone fruit, piercing acidity, and a salty thread that keeps it gorgeously fresh. Botrytis sweetness done with Styrian precision – not cloying, just addictive.
These bottles aren’t waiting for permission. They’re here, they’re brilliant, and they’re priced like someone made a glorious mistake. Austria has never needed hype; it simply makes wines that speak for themselves. After this trip, I’m convinced they’re speaking louder and more eloquently than ever. If you’ve been waiting for the right moment to dive deeper into Austrian wine, consider this your invitation. The bottles are ready. I know I’ll be drinking them for a very long time.
