Creative, Happy Place of Gesine Roll
Imagine this: wine so vibrant and precise that one sip pulls you straight into the rolling, limestone-rich hills of Rheinhessen – Germany’s most dynamic wine region. At the forefront of this renaissance are two extraordinary young winemakers whose deep personal drive, infectious joy, and fearless creativity are reshaping what German wine can be. This two part article dives into the worlds of winemakers Gesine Roll and Tobias Kramer. You are standing on a high plateau in Rheinhessen, the wind whispering through vines heavy with promise, overlooking legendary sites like Morstein and Kirchspiel in nearby Westhofen. This is Weingut Weedenborn in Monzernheim – a place where tradition meets bold vision, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme, and the soils are rich in limestone and basalt. Here, a moderate cooling climate and the coolest sites guarantee perfect ripeness, creating wines that burst with energy and precision. What drives Gesine? A profound belief in patience, humility, and letting exceptional terroir speak for itself. Her winery is her self-described happy place – a space of determined creativity and genuine warmth that shines through in every bottle and every heartfelt homemade lunch she shares with visitors. Gesine isn’t chasing approval; she’s building a legacy rooted in authenticity and joy. What started as a historic family farm – grandparents raising animals, parents diversifying into other crops – transformed into a pure viticultural gem when Gesine Roll took over in 2005. With ~20 hectares of family-owned vineyards, Gesine has turned heads (and palates) by putting Sauvignon Blanc front and center: a whopping 13 hectares, about 50-65% of the plantings. Rounded out by Chardonnay (some vines dating back to 1992, Germany’s first legal year), Weissburgunder, Riesling, and Pinot Noir, her focus is laser-sharp. From a young age, she was deeply drawn to architecture &exploring design, envisioning environments shaped by form and function. However, at the age of 15, she made the deliberate decision to continue the family tradition, transitioning from architectural pursuits to the heritage and responsibilities of winemaking. She said “had I not followed this path, I would likely have pursued a career in fine woodworking—crafting bespoke pieces from carefully selected timbers, where precision joinery, thoughtful design, and the natural beauty of wood converge to create enduring, handcrafted objects of both utility and artistry.” And the accolades? In 2024, Gesine was crowned Falstaff Female Winemaker of the Year among many other awards– a huge nod to her vibrant, juicy, expressive whites that are rewriting Rheinhessen’s story beyond Riesling. ONE CORRECTION FOUND: Also several other awards Gault & Millau wine personality of the year -23, Vinum -25 & -24 Best Sauvignon Blanc of the year. Meeting Gesine is like chatting with a force of nature – humble yet fiercely passionate. Her philosophy? Patience, humility, consequence, passion, and focus. “We want to make passionate, quality wine without complexity,” she says with a smile, shunning trends like non-alcoholic wines or fleeting fads like Pet-Nat. Instead, she lets the terroir speak: those unique limestone soils, high altitudes (200-265m) for cooler temps, slow ripening, and that perfect balance of acidity and aroma – no “green” notes here! Her style is all about energy and precision: spontaneous fermentation, reductive winemaking, and generous aging. Notably, her Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay follow the same winemaking approach. Top cuvées like “Terra Rossa” (from red limestone sites rich in iron oxide) spend 18-20 months in 500L French oak (60-65% new), plus time on lees and in bottle. The result? Wines that explode with freshness, minerality, and layered complexity – elegant, pure, and utterly drinkable. Gesine said “ to create a great wine, it needs silence.” We tasted a stunning vertical of Sauvignon Blanc Terra Rossa, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay Reserve, and the pinnacle Grande Réserve – here are the brief notes that captured the moment: Sauvignon Blanc Terra Rossa Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (often called Fumé for its smoky oak influence) Chardonnay Reserve Grande Réserve (more Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc in the blend)Gesine notes that this needs more silence and time – “Sauvignon Blanc is a louder grape.” It wasn’t always smooth sailing. It took time for Gesine to find her Sauvignon Blanc style. It wasn’t till 2016 that she truly felt confident. Early skeptics asked, “Why Sauvignon Blanc instead of Riesling?” in a region long underrated for premium wines. But Gesine bet on exceptional sites, long aging, and collaboration. As a founder of the “Message in a Bottle” group in 2002 – 25 ambitious young winemakers united to champion Rheinhessen’s chalky terroir – she helped shift perceptions and elevate the entire area. Her signature is long post-fermentation lees aging, and since 2011 she’s been crafting Reserve wines in large 500L. Today, Weedenborn is celebrated for world-class quality (VDP-recognized, though independent), mentoring the next generation, and proving you can go all-in on one variety and still reflect pure terroir. As if the wines weren’t generous enough, Gesine surprised us by preparing a beautiful lunch herself – a warm, heartfelt touch that made the visit feel like being welcomed into a friend’s home. The highlight was her signature quiche, golden and fluffy, packed with seasonal vegetables and just the right creamy richness. Paired with a crisp glass of Sauvignon Blanc, it was the perfect savory counterpoint to the afternoon’s vibrant tasting – grounding, comforting, and utterly delicious. It truly felt like the ideal close to a day filled with inspiration, flavor, and genuine hospitality. Spending time with Gesine Roll at Weedenborn feels electric – a tale of quiet defiance, deep roots, and soaring ambition. Gesine Roll isn’t just crafting wines; she’s building a legacy, one thrilling, mineral-kissed sip (and bite) at a time. If you’re exploring Rheinhessen, put this on your must-visit list. Trust me, you’ll leave inspired… and thirsty for more! 🍷 Next stop, an evening with Tobias Kramer of Weingut Krämer.
An Evening with Tobias Krämer: Straight Talk
It was one of those cozy winter evenings in Wiesbaden, the kind where the air carries a crisp chill and the promise of good conversation over glasses of wine. We sat down with Tobias Krämer, the young winemaker behind Weingut Krämer for an intimate interview and tasting. At just 31, Tobias exudes a quiet confidence, the sort earned from growing up among vines and now steering his family’s eighth generation winery into a new era. Gau-Weinheim, a charming wine village nestled in the heart of Rheinhessen—Germany’s largest wine region, often called the “land of a thousand hills.” Rheinhessen is renowned for its diverse grape varieties, innovative young winemakers, and a remarkable renaissance in quality dry Rieslings and other whites, shedding its old association with mass-produced sweet blends to emerge as a hotspot for fresh, terroir-driven, and exciting wines. But there is one special estate, a hidden jewel amongst gems, WKrämer. What fuels Tobias? An unbreakable connection to his family’s eighth generation roots combined with an urgent desire to prove Rheinhessen’s world-class potential. His wines are straight, creative & innovative. The Krämer estate is compact and personal—around 13 hectares of vineyards dotted across limestone-rich slopes like the impressive Gau-Weinheim—but it’s deeply rooted. “My vineyards come from both sides of the family,” Tobias explained as he poured the first glass. “Part from my father’s side, part from my mother’s, just a few kilometers apart. That gives us these wonderful microclimates to play with.” He smiled, recalling how his father was the first in the family to shift from bulk agriculture to bottling and selling wine directly to customers. “Before that, it was mostly farming with a bit of wine on the side. Now, we’re all in.” As Tobias said with a smile, three words that describe my wines are Straight, Creative & Innovative. As we swirled and sipped his flagship Straight Riesling 2024—the wine he calls his “business card” and the heart of the winery’s identity—the conversation flowed naturally. This young vintage burst with vibrant freshness: juicy yellow peach, zesty citrus, and subtle herbal notes, all underpinned by a crisp, mineral backbone that makes it athletic and invigorating, just as Tobias describes his style. This Riesling is everything Tobias stands for: mineral-driven, fresh, clear, and what he describes as “athletic” in structure. “It’s not overly round or ripe,” he said, gesturing animatedly. “We want that balance, that freshness from our cool climate and limestone soils. Riesling is our identity here—it’s what we do best.” We moved on to the Straight Sauvignon Blanc 2024, sourced purely from the Gau-Weinheim sites. It jumped from the glass with exotic energy—lime zest, gooseberry, papaya, and a cheeky streak of passionfruit, backed by lively acidity and a mouthwatering mineral snap. “Fein, frech und fruity,” as one might say: bold, fun, and unmistakably Rheinhessen. Next came the Straight Chardonnay 2024, a clear, powerful expression with exotic hints of quince and ripe pear, wrapped in a smoky finesse that speaks of careful craftsmanship—elegant yet approachable, with great length. Tobias’s journey into winemaking feels almost predestined. “From childhood, I knew I wanted to make wine,” he shared with a chuckle. “I’d be out on the tractor in the vineyards as a kid, loving every minute.” But it wasn’t without challenges. After his apprenticeship in 2009 at several estates, where he learned everything from solo cellar management in small operations to teamwork in larger ones, he returned home ready to innovate. One anecdote stands out: pushing to plant new blocks on steep hills. “My father was traditional, a bit hesitant at first,” Tobias admitted. “But he supported me. We’ve blended old knowledge with new ideas.” The single-vineyard gems stole the show later in the evening. The Kaisergarten Gau-Weinheimer 2022 (likely a Chardonnay from this prized site) delivered exceptional density and minerality, with complex smoky notes, quince, and pear—straff, structured, and lingering beautifully. Then the La Roche Riesling 2020, from the red slate soils shared with legends like Niersteiner Rotenhang: intensely mineral and saftig, loaded with citrus, ripe stone fruit, and a firm, structured grip that promises even more with age. We finished with the maiden vintage, La Roche 2016—Tobias’s first solo statement from this site. Even after years in bottle, it showed youthful vitality layered with deeper complexity: concentrated fruit, pronounced minerality from the Rotliegend, and that elegant, juicy tension that marks great terroir-driven Riesling. We’d tasted blind a few wines, comparing to pricier benchmarks like Herman J Wiemer Riesling “People pay $35 for that,” he laughed. “But blind? Our quality holds up, and at €10-12 a bottle in Germany, it’s about making great wine accessible—a big table where everyone is welcome.” I encouraged Tobias to take the remainder of the bottle home to share with his wife Laura even running her own label, “Aura.” They have a harmonious collaboration that mirrors inspiring industry duos, where each partner pursues their vision while supporting the other, fostering innovation rather than competition. Marketing is where Tobias’s modern side really sparkles. He’s part of a young generation elevating Rheinhessen’s reputation, once overshadowed but now buzzing with quality-driven peers. Social media plays a big role, along with partnerships. A high-profile collaboration providing wines for VIP events tied to German football. “It’s a fantastic opportunity,” Tobias said, eyes lighting up. “Getting our Riesling in front of thousands, demystifying German wine—moving past those old stereotypes of sweet stuff in blue bottles from the ’70s and ’80s.” Climate challenges came up too—droughts, hotter summers atypical for their cool sites. “But our spread of vineyards helps,” he noted. “Some have better water access; we blend for consistency.” As the evening wound down, glasses empty and stories shared, it was clear: Tobias is honoring his roots while pushing forward, one straight, mineral-kissed sip at a time. He is driven by a mission to demolish old stereotypes and invite everyone to the table with wines that are honest, exciting, and unmistakably Rheinhessen.
Riesling Revolution: Martin Tesch’s Nahe Magic
My recent trip to Germany had a twofold purpose: first, to demystify the often misunderstood world of German wine, peeling back layers of complexity beyond labels and classifications; and second, to dive deeper into the nuances of its signature grape, Riesling, in hopes of converting me—a devoted Chenin Blanc lover—into an even greater Riesling devotee. What better place to start than in the Nahe region, where I spent an enlightening day with the visionary winemaker Martin Tesch. Meeting Martin was like chatting with a philosopher who just happens to make exceptional wine. Charismatic and deeply thoughtful, he’s the driving force behind Weingut Tesch’s evolution. As he put it quite simply, I describe my wines as New Old School, Innovative & Rebellious. Nestled in the picturesque Nahe valley in the village of Langenlonsheim—one of the region’s largest winegrowing municipalities with around 187 hectares of vineyards—Weingut Tesch is more than just a winery—it’s a living testament to Germany’s rich viticultural heritage. Born into a family with centuries of winemaking tradition, Martin’s path to becoming a winemaker was both scientific and serendipitous. He studied microbiology, where he discovered his enthusiasm for fermentation processes of all kinds. This academic background led him back to the family estate, which he has run since 1997. In 2001, he embarked on a transformative journey, reinventing the winery by focusing primarily on dry Rieslings produced with minimal intervention, reducing the family’s portfolio from plus 50 to 6 wines. Often seen as a trailblazer who “follows the science,” even if it means bucking traditions that some peers view as unconventional, Martin’s journey reflects a blend of heritage and innovation. Martin’s independence is the key to his success. From an early age, Martin was fascinated by punk music. He befriended the famous German punk band Die Toten Hosen at their second concert outside Düsseldorf and later created several private-label wines with them. He left the VdP (Germany’s prestigious wine association which his grandfather founded in 1901) to forge his own path, emphasizing individuality over conformity. “The road to success is not a group travel. You need to be individual,” he told me, and it’s paid off. His customer base now includes young, educated wine lovers who crave authenticity and stories over fleeting trends. But wait, Martin said, to have a better understanding of my wines, you need to see where they come from. Immediately, Martin Tesch took us up to his vineyard, wanting us to really feel the story behind his wines before we started tasting. From a stunning viewpoint high above the steep, terraced slopes of the Nahe Valley, he introduced us to his pride and joy: the legendary St. Remigiusberg vineyard. First planted by Benedictine monks centuries ago and long considered one of the Nahe’s greatest sites, this parcel was split apart during the turmoil of the 16th-century Reformation. After hundreds of years divided, it’s only recently been brought back together through the passion and perseverance of Martin’s family and six families from the Netherlands. Now whole again at 4 hectares, the reunification is so much more than just gaining land. It’s a powerful, deeply symbolic “major step” in protecting a viticultural heritage that stretches back generations. Martin said it best, with real emotion in his voice: “You have a step every 300–400 years, and this was only three steps… you got to live one of the major steps.” Standing there among vines planted in ancient volcanic soil, you can’t help but feel the weight of history—and the quiet thrill of being part of its next chapter. Driving through the Nahe, Martin explained the empty plots—a stark sign of ongoing production reduction in the region as growers adapt to changing markets and climates. But the magic of Nahe isn’t lost. At the core of Weingut Tesch is Martin’s “new old school” philosophy—a brilliant blend of tradition and innovation. It’s about honoring the past while adapting to the present, ensuring the wines remain timeless yet relevant. Riesling, of course, takes center stage here, but Martin’s dry styles are a revelation. Sustainability is woven into every practice, though Martin shuns certifications. “People want to understand deeper than just a stamp… ‘organic’ isn’t a guarantee of taste,” he explained. Instead, it’s about handwork, minimal copper use, and a genuine respect for the land. This approach yields wines that are pure expressions of Nahe’s terroir—crisp, mineral-driven, and endlessly fascinating. Tasting them side by side, I felt the “new” in modern techniques like screw caps harmonizing with the “old school” essence of ancient vines and historical insights. His wines are crafted from 60-year-old vines, aged on lees for added complexity, and bottled under screw caps—a bold move Martin adopted in 2005 despite initial controversy. He also minimizes sulfites (down to 25 ppm post-bottling) and focuses on spicy, intricate profiles, like the “Unplugged” Riesling, which boasts lower sugar but heightened depth. Martin shared amusing anecdotes about label designs: an angel on one bottle raised eyebrows in the US for not being “fully clothed” enough, while Sweden questioned its age-appropriateness. His bold, modern labels—featuring vibrant color-coding inspired by the London Underground map, unique artwork for each vineyard (often with playful motifs like a king frog), and a consistent portrait of his great-grandfather—earned a prestigious Red Dot Design Award. These stories underscore the cultural tightrope of exporting authentic German wine, maintaining both traditional and modern art influences on each label. His son, set to carry the torch, plans to “stay small” and keep the “fun in winemaking” alive, rejecting mass-market temptations like “2 million bottles of alcohol-free wine.” In Martin’s words, “History means nothing… you can lose it in every generation. It’s just a starting point.” This mindset ensures Weingut Tesch isn’t resting on its laurels but building a future rooted in values: individuality, sustainability, and that unbreakable bond between people, place, and wine. How to promote Riesling, the issue with success of Riesling -Martin said Give Riesling a role – that doesn’t work- perfect for food pairings acid with fat and richness no matter
Holiday Travels
These four bottles aren’t just wines – they’re postcards from the roads I traveled in 2025, little liquid souvenirs I brought home from places that stole my heart. From volcanic slopes to glacier-cooled lakeshores, from devil-chasing hilltops to sky-high Andean vineyards, each one carries the soul of where it was born. And as the holiday lights start twinkling, they transform into the perfect companions for the season: sparkle to kick off the night, spice to match the feast, brightness to cut through the richness, and velvet depth for those long, fireside conversations. Here they are – four passports to joy, ready to make your holiday season unforgettable! Scacciadiavoli Brut Rosé: The Devil-Chasing Sparkler That’s Pure Party Magic! Oh, buckle up, bubbly lovers—this Scacciadiavoli Brut Rosé from the legendary Cantina Scacciadiavoli is like a cheeky Italian whisper saying, “Life’s too short for flat vibes!” Hailing from the sun-kissed hills of Montefalco in Umbria, Italy, this winery’s been crafting wines since the 1800s, with a name that literally means “devil-chaser” The region’s volcanic soils and gentle breezes give it that extra zing, turning humble grapes into liquid fireworks. Winemaking here is all about that classic Italian flair: hand-picked 100% Sagrantino grapes get the royal treatment with the Metodo Classico (think Champagne method, but with more Mediterranean soul), aged min 24 months sur lie fermenting in the bottle for that fine, celebratory fizz. It’s aged just right to keep things fresh without losing the fun—pure artisanal wizardry that lets the terroir shine through every bubble. Style-wise, this is your go-to sparkling rosé for when you want elegance with a wink: brut-dry for that crisp edge, but bursting with playful energy. It’s the rosé that dances on your tongue, light yet structured, like a summer fling that turns into your new bestie. Tasting notes? Get ready to swoon: a pale salmon glow in the glass, unleashing a floral explosion of wild strawberries, red apples, and a whisper of brioche crust—fresh as a morning jog through an orchard. On the palate, it’s a lively tango of cranberry zip, ginger spice, and white pepper kick, all wrapped in silky bubbles and zesty acidity that lingers like a flirty goodbye. One sip, and you’re hooked—elegant, savory, and oh-so-refreshing! For fun food pairings, pop this open with seafood towers , charcuterie boards loaded with prosciutto and fresh cheeses, or even a zesty white-meat grill-out. It’s the ultimate mood-lifter for rooftop toasts, beach picnics, or just because—evoking that carefree, sun-drenched euphoria where worries bubble away and every moment feels like a victory lap. Cheers to chasing devils with delight! Fun Fact: The winery’s name literally means “Devil-Chaser” because, back in the 19th century, the vineyard sat right next to a tiny village where an exorcist was once called in to banish a pesky demon. Locals swear the first bottles of sparkling Sagrantino were so good that even the devil fled in delight… and never came back! Le Morette Mandolara 2024: Lake Garda’s Zesty Sunshine in a Bottle! Dive into the sparkling waters of joy with Le Morette’s Mandolara 2024—because nothing says “let’s make memories” like a white wine that’s as breezy as a Venetian gondola ride! Crafted by the Zenato family at Le Morette winery, these folks have been tending vines in Peschiera del Garda since the 1960s, blending old-school passion with zero-chemical purity for wines that taste like pure, unfiltered happiness. Nestled in the Lugana DOC region of Veneto, Italy—just a stone’s throw south of Lake Garda’s shimmering shores—this spot’s mineral-rich clays and lake-cooled nights crank up the freshness dial to eleven, making every vintage a love letter to the land. Winemaking is a family affair done right: 100% Turbiana grapes (that’s Verdicchio’s sexy Italian alias) from the hallowed Mandolara vineyard get a gentle stainless-steel hug to preserve their zippy soul—no oak, no fuss, just pure expression fermented cool and crisp for that vibrant pop. It’s sustainable magic that lets the grapes strut their stuff. This bad boy rocks a flinty-green white wine style—light-bodied, zingy, and endlessly quaffable, like the cool cousin at the family reunion who always brings the best stories. Perfect for those “aha!” moments when you need refreshment without the weight. Pour it out, and bam—your nose is hit with a citrus symphony of grapefruit zest, green apple crunch, white flowers, and a sneaky apricot tease, all wrapped in that flinty, mineral kiss from the Garda stones. The palate? A fruity fiesta of peach whispers and apple brightness, finishing with bitter almond elegance and a mouthwatering acidity that begs for another sip. It’s fresh, balanced, and downright addictive—like biting into summer itself! Pair it up with Taco Tuesday fish tacos, delicate seafood pastas, or veggie-packed risottos for a match made in heaven—light, lively, and laugh-out-loud delicious. The mood? Effortlessly upbeat, evoking lazy afternoons by the water, spontaneous brunches, or that giddy “yes!” to new adventures—pure, feel-good elixir for souls craving a splash of serenity and sparkle! Fun Fact: The Mandolara vineyard is home to a colony of wild ducks (called “morette” in local dialect) that waddle through the rows every spring. The Zenato family refuses to scare them away, so every vintage is officially “duck-approved” and probably blessed with extra good luck! Alta Mora Etna Rosso 2022: Sicily’s Volcanic Vixen Ignite your senses with Alta Mora Etna Rosso 2022, where the fiery spirit of Mount Etna meets winemaking wizardry for a red that’s as explosively fun as a Sicilian festa! Born from the Cusumano family’s Alta Mora project—a high-elevation love child of passion and precision since 2007—this crew’s all about honoring Etna’s wild side with sustainable swagger and indigenous soul. Perched on the volcanic flanks of Etna in Sicily, Italy—blending grapes from star vineyards like Verzella, Solicchiata, Feudo di Mezzo, and Guardiola at 650–900 meters up—these lava-kissed black sands and ancient soils brew a mineral magic that’s equal parts rugged and refined, capturing the island’s untamed heartbeat. Winemaking channels that volcanic energy: 100% Nerello Mascalese gets a cool ferment to lock in freshness, then