Balthasar Ress Fine Wines, Finer Moments
A recent visit to Balthasar Ress, one of the Rheingau’s premier VDP-certified organic wineries, turned into an unforgettable afternoon of wine, stories, and genuine connection. Nestled in the heart of Hattenheim, this family-run estate—founded in 1870 by the butcher-turned-host Balthasar Ress—has evolved into a beacon of fine Riesling and increasingly acclaimed Pinot Noir, all while embracing organic viticulture and a philosophy of “Fein Sei Der Wein” (And Fine Be The Wine). It was also a special pleasure to meet Christian Ress, the passionate managing director who carries forward the family legacy with vision and warmth, alongside his father Stefan Ress, whose experience and quiet presence added depth and history to the occasion. Their hospitality made the visit feel like stepping into a family home rather than just a winery tour. The highlight was a private tasting led by head winemaker Markus Roll and export manager Marc Pohl. Both brought infectious passion and candor to the table, turning what could have been a standard tasting into a lively conversation about life, dreams, and the soul of German wine. We dove straight into their wines—elegant, precise Rieslings from top sites like Rüdesheim Berg Rottland and Hattenheim Nussbrunnen, alongside promising Pinot Noirs that showcase the estate’s growing red focus. The pours revealed layers of minerality, freshness, and site-specific character, hallmarks of the Rheingau’s steep slopes and slate soils. To break the ice (and reveal personalities beyond the bottles), we asked each a series of fun, offbeat questions: Describe your identity with three non-wine-describing words? Markus chose Riesling, terroir, taste—a playful nod to what clearly defines him, even if he tried to avoid wine terms! Marc went with elegant, long-lasting, freshness—words that perfectly mirror the style he champions in export markets. If you could share one bottle of your wine with a person (dead or alive), who would it be and why? Markus picked his wife, sharing a bottle of Bischofsberg because it’s “elegant and easy to share, great price relationship.” A sweet, grounded choice from someone deeply rooted in the craft. Marc humorously selected George Clooney and Brad Pitt, pairing them with Würzgarten for their “fantastic characters”—a fun, star-studded fantasy that had everyone laughing. When you were a kid, what was your dream job? Markus dreamed of being a chef (but noted the lousy hours), pivoting at age 9 to winemaking—a precocious decision that’s clearly paid off. Marc wanted to be a locomotive driver, inspired by his grandpa’s love of trains—a charming glimpse into a childhood fascination with movement and journeys. If you weren’t working with wine, what would you do? Both leaned toward hospitality: Marc mentioned F&B Manager, fitting his background in hotels and service. The conversation turned reflective as they shared memorable moments: Markus recalled a profound tasting with Philipp Wittmann surrounded by great Burgundies (sparking new thoughts on oak influence), falling in love with Sauvignon Blanc during a trip to South Styria, and joyful Champagne sessions with friends. Marc spoke of starting in the army’s officers’ casino as a waiter, his hotel school education in Heidelberg that ignited his wine passion, and a pivotal role at Schloss Vollrads—where he fell for the Rheingau’s perfect blend of Mosel’s elegance and Rheinhessen’s opulent fruit and body. We tackled bigger questions too, like engaging Generation Z, often seen as shying away from wine. Marc’s response was refreshingly honest “Younger generations consume less as they use different things like marijuana and drink RTDs. My task is not to encourage others to drink wine—my task is to find people who wish to have a good bottle of wine.” He emphasized education—helping consumers learn how to enjoy wine to add pleasure—without ever pushing alcohol. On German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) gaining global recognition, Markus was optimistic as it’s getting better and better. He raved about recent tastings, blown away by the quality leap in producers like Huber over the last five years, and noted exciting improvements in German Chardonnay too. Dreaming bigger, Markus shared a wish to experiment with Southern Hemisphere reds—Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Franc and Merlot, and their blends—on Balthasar Ress vineyards. His dream by 2030? Simply retirement, still fueled by his love to the wine. Advice for the next generation of winemakers came straight from the heart: Markus: “Try as many wines as you can, be loyal to your own style, and just do it.” Marc: “Be self-confident and pick your style.” Finally, what would surprise people about them? Markus laughed: “I’m an open book—I’m not as grumpy as I look.” (He doesn’t look grumpy at all—quite the opposite!) The tasting itself was a masterclass in the estate’s evolution. Markus introduced their exciting new concept launching in 2026, inspired by the multi-vintage approach of Dreissigacker’s Vintages series: four Erste Lage vineyards across four vintages (starting with 2019), blended to create wines that transcend individual vintage challenges. With shorter harvest windows and ripeness issues becoming less dominant in the blend, the goal is classic expression through three pillars—variety, region, and winery identity. The 2019 vintage also marked the estate’s official organic certification. Standout wines we tasted included: 2024 Goose Trail Souvignier Gris: PiWi trailblazer from the soggy riverbank spot. Explosive muscat vibes, almond edge, passionfruit kick. Smooth but a touch lean in the middle—crisp tart acid snaps it awake. Grab this funky pioneer now! 2024 Von unserem Riesling: Pure, no-nonsense Rheingau Riesling. Zesty citrus, green apple snap, steely minerality. Bone-dry, mouth-watering acidity drives it hard. Everyday hero that demands another glass—don’t wait! 2023 Rüdesheimer trocken: Steep-slope power. Fresh citrus blast, green apple crunch, subtle stone fruit and floral lift. Razor-sharp dryness, vibrant energy. Classic Rüdesheim punch—drink up fast! 2023 Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg: Erste Lage elegance. Yellow fruit rush, passionfruit exoticism, kiwi-lime zing, lemon balm whisper. Precise, juicy, mineral spine. Seductive yet serious—buy before it’s gone! 2023 Hallgartener Würzgarten: Erste Lage spice bomb. Ripe stone fruit, floral intensity, herbal edge, tight minerality. Focused, structured, long finish. Demands attention—stock up on this gem! 2023 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg: Erste Lage benchmark. Peach-yellow apple
Dreissigacker Uncorked: Rheinhessen Magic
As the crisp autumn air swept through the rolling hills of Rheinhessen, I found myself embarking on an unforgettable winery tour at Weingut Dreissigacker. Accompanied by Samuel Kirr, the charismatic International Sales Manager whose passion for the estate’s wines is as infectious as the region’s vibrant Rieslings, we delved into the heart of this family-run operation. Nestled in the picturesque villages of Bechtheim and Westhofen, Dreissigacker isn’t just a winery—it’s a testament to centuries-old traditions blended with modern innovation. If you’re a wine enthusiast seeking purity, complexity, and a touch of exclusivity, this is a story you’ll savor. The Dreissigacker family’s winemaking legacy traces back to the 18th century, but the modern chapter began under Jochen Dreissigacker. He crafted his first wine in 2001 and fully took the reins in 2005, transforming the estate into a beacon of quality-driven production. In 2018, they unveiled a state-of-the-art winery designed with capacity for two full vintages, allowing for meticulous aging and blending without compromise. “Our new facility isn’t just about space—it’s about creating the perfect environment for our wines to evolve,” Samuel shared during our walk through the gleaming cellars. Spanning approximately 55 hectares of vineyards, the estate has been organic since 2007, with biodynamic practices introduced around 2020. Yields are deliberately “dropped” to concentrate flavors, ensuring every grape packs a punch of intensity. Dreissigacker channels their grapes into premium expressions, predominantly Riesling. Their philosophy is simple: control quality from vine to bottle. The varietal focus is laser-sharp: about 60% Riesling, complemented by Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Rosés and reds make up less than 5% of production, keeping the spotlight on whites that capture Rheinhessen’s terroir. Competitive edges shine through old-vine crus like Aulerde, Kirchspiel, and Morstein—sites renowned for their mineral-driven soils—and an unwavering commitment to sustainability. Initiatives in the cellar, such as flexible tank setups and cooling systems, allow for precise temperature control, minimizing intervention while maximizing expression. At Dreissigacker, the mantra is clear: prioritize quality to build a lasting brand. Jochen, alongside Cellar Master Achim, as Jochen is closely involved in the blending process orchestrating their range of wines like a conductor of a symphony. During harvest, a team of 10 specialists handles everything from sugar measurements to pressing, while year-round, just three core staff maintain the cellar’s rhythm. Their product strategy is tiered for accessibility and depth. The entry-level Riesling serves as the “business card” of the winery—fruit-driven and versatile. Mid-tier offerings like the multi-vintage blend act as a bridge, while single-site gems target collectors. Innovation extends to NFT pre-sales for high-end releases, allowing customers to reserve future bottles at half price, with unsold stock aged five years and sold at a premium. The highlight of the tour was the tasting lineup, where Dreissigacker’s elegant, mineral-laced style shone through. Each wine told a story of terroir, craftsmanship, and patience. Here’s what stood out: Samuel’s quotes peppered our conversation, bringing the philosophy to life: “We’re not chasing volume; we’re crafting experiences. From dropping yields to biodynamic practices, every decision elevates the grape.” In a sea of producers, Weingut Dreissigacker is a winery that honors its Rheinhessen roots while eyeing global horizons. If you’re planning a visit to Bechtheim or Westhofen, make Dreissigacker a must—pair it with Samuel’s insights, and you’ll leave with more than bottles; you’ll carry a piece of their passion.
Carolin Spanier-Gillot: Staying True to Roots in a Changing Wine World
The day had already been long and deliciously intense. Our visit at the previous estate had—true to the unpredictable rhythm of wine trips—run far later than planned, with glasses multiplying and conversations stretching into the afternoon. By the time we arrived at Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim, the light was fading over the Roter Hang. There was simply no time left for a proper tasting of Carolin Spanier-Gillot’s acclaimed biodynamic Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. Instead, we sat down for an unhurried chat in the warm glow of the estate over coffee and her special Christmas cake, and what was meant to be a quick visit turned into a memorable conversation with the most super positive, charming optimist in the world of wine (myself being a close second). Carolin Spanier-Gillot helms two esteemed VDP estates: Weingut Kühling-Gillot in Bodenheim and, alongside her husband H.O. Spanier, Battenfeld-Spanier. With a philosophy rooted in “Origin Excellence,” she crafts wines that speak unmistakably of their terroir. In our candid interview, Carolin shared pragmatic insights on market shifts, personal sacrifices, and why chasing trends is a fool’s game. Their focus on authenticity defines her estates’ niche. In a competitive landscape, Carolin warns against trend-hopping—like orange wines or non-alcoholic options, which she bluntly calls “juice.” “If it’s not fermented with alcohol, it’s not wine,” she asserts. “Invest energy in other fermented products like kombucha instead.” Her estates stick to a strict profile of core varieties, centered on Riesling, with no experimental clones. “Fifteen years ago, you could sell discount supermarket wine for €60; now, only brands with a clear profile survive.” By blending tradition with modernity, they thrive on storytelling and sustainability—hosting educational events in their wine cellar to teach food pairings, or positioning accessible premiums like their €28 “Age Riesling” as gateways to memorable experiences. Carolin’s path to winemaking was anything but planned. Growing up on the family’s modest 6-hectare estate, she dreamed of becoming a pilot or doctor. But at 16, when her mother fell ill, family duty called. She stepped in, starting with simple tasks like labeling bottles. Today, she juggles roles as manager, CFO, and “trouble fixer,” clocking 65-hour weeks while prioritizing her team’s well-being. “I put my own needs last,” she admits, a testament to her dedication. Carolin’s rise has been groundbreaking in Germany’s traditionally male-dominated wine industry. In 2015, she made history as the first woman to be named **Winemaker of the Year** by the prestigious Falstaff WeinGuide Deutschland—a major accolade that recognized her exceptional talent and the outstanding quality of her wines. This honor underscored her success in elevating the estates to new heights, proving that determination and vision could shatter glass ceilings in winemaking. Her admiration for strong, trailblazing women shines through in her inspirations. When asked who she would most like to share a bottle of wine with—dead or alive—Carolin didn’t hesitate: Tina Turner. “A great woman and a real epicurean,” she says with enthusiasm. Carolin also holds Gaia Gaja in high esteem for similar reasons of determination and balance, making her choices reflect a pattern of admiring iconic women who conquer challenges with grace. One persistent myth in the wine industry is that “younger generations are not drinking wine.” Carolin dismisses this outright. “It’s inaccurate,” she says firmly. She points to packed wine events buzzing with young attendees, drawn not by gimmicks but by authenticity—particularly organic and biodynamic practices that align with their values of sustainability. Looking ahead to 2030, succession is a priority. Her children—a 16-year-old son keen on winemaking (who’ll gain external experience first) and 21-year-old son potentially handling marketing—are poised to take over. Market-wise, she’s eyeing expansion: exploring Greek varieties like Assyrtiko from Santorini and pushing U.S. distribution beyond coasts into cities like Chicago, fueled by growing demand (a recent 7,000-bottle order). Yet diversification remains key—”We don’t live off the U.S. market.” Carolin also shapes Germany’s evolving wine laws through the VDP, pushing for classified vineyards and transparency. Her critique of dogmatic “natural wine” advocates—who brand critics as “enemies”—underscores her no-nonsense stance: preserve wine’s true identity. In an industry rife with fads, Carolin Spanier-Gillot’s message is clear and inspiring: “The best way to reach new generations is to be true to your story.” By championing quality, sustainability, and family legacy, she’s proving that small estates can not only survive but shine—pouring authenticity into every glass. And one day soon, I’ll be back to finally raise one of those glasses myself.
Visiting Weingut Wegeler with the Larger-Than-Life Richard Grosche
There’s something magical about the winding rivers and steep slate slopes of Germany’s wine regions, where history, terroir, and passion converge in every glass. My recent visit to Weingut Wegeler, nestled in the heart of the Rheingau and Mosel, was nothing short of enchanting. Guiding me through this vinous wonderland was Richard Grosche, the winery’s charismatic Managing Director—a true force of nature with an infectious enthusiasm for wine that makes every conversation feel like a celebration. Larger than life, with a booming laugh and stories that span continents, Richard is not only a passionate advocate for Riesling but also a market-savvy visionary: forward-thinking, creative, and deeply attuned to global trends. With over 20 years in the industry—including stints at top estates like Reichsrat von Buhl and Karthäuserhof—he has driven brand modernization, internationalization, and innovative projects that elevate traditional winemaking into the modern era. Interestingly, as a child Richard dreamed of becoming a teacher, and in many ways he has fulfilled that calling—sharing his encyclopedic knowledge of wine with infectious joy, turning every tasting into an inspiring lesson. Richard embodies the spirit of Wegeler: timeless quality infused with forward-thinking flair. As we strolled through the vineyards and tasted from the cellars, he shared insights that brought the estate’s legacy to vivid life. Founded in 1882 by Julius Wegeler—a visionary from the Deinhard family seeking independence and excellence—the estate remains family-run across four generations. “To make great wine, Wegeler needed not only capital, but also foresight,” Richard echoed the founder’s words. Today, under his dynamic leadership as Managing Director, the family blends deep tradition with passionate innovation: “We have to pursue viticulture, winemaking, and wine sales with foresight and passion!” Weingut Wegeler spans Oestrich-Winkel in the Rheingau (headquarters) and Bernkastel in the Mosel, with 42 hectares in Rheingau and 15 in Mosel. These include iconic grand cru sites, notably the largest holding in legendary Bernkasteler Doctor. Rheingau’s varied soils deliver structured Rieslings; Mosel’s steep slate slopes yield ethereal, mineral expressions. The portfolio also features the 4-hectare Krone estate in Assmannshausen, a VDP site dedicated entirely to elegant Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). A dedicated team ensures terroir-driven precision: In Rheingau, Michael Burgdorf (Product Manager and Cellar Master) and Andreas Holderrieth oversee operations; in Mosel, Norbert Breit crafts the slate-influenced Rieslings. Hand-harvesting, gentle processing, sustainable practices, and extended lees aging define their approach. As Richard puts it: “Our team ensures every wine reflects its origin—aged until optimally ripe.” Primarily a Riesling specialist, Wegeler produces everything from bone-dry Grosses Gewächs (like flagship Geheimrat J, blended from premier sites and lees-matured) to classic Prädikat levels showcasing vintage character. “Riesling is so versatile, shaped by origin, vintage, and the winemaker’s skill,” Richard noted, dismissing myths: “Riesling is sweet? Bah! Our dry styles prove it’s versatile and age-worthy.” Krone adds silky Pinot Noirs, with small sparkling volumes completing the range. Extended lees contact creates layered, long-lived wines. Under Richard’s creative direction, innovations like switching the Riesling Extra Brut Sekt to traditional bottle fermentation (from Charmat since 2021), earlier picking for fresher profiles, and ambitious production growth reflect his forward-thinking approach to elevating quality and appeal. When I asked Richard to distill the essence of Weingut Wegeler, he leaned in with that signature enthusiasm: “For us, it’s all about Tradition – Place – Prestige – Artisanal.” He elaborated passionately: “We stand on the shoulders of generations of winemaking tradition, rooted deeply in our unique places—the exceptional terroirs of Rheingau and Mosel. We build on this heritage with prestige that comes from uncompromising quality and iconic sites like Bernkasteler Doctor and our grand crus. And everything is done artisanal—hand-harvested, with meticulous care, respect for nature, and the patience to let the wines mature on the lees until they tell their full story. Quality is our philosophy, as Julius Wegeler said in 1882, and nothing has changed.” The pinnacle of the visit was an intimate tasting session with Richard, where we explored current releases, emerging projects, and a vertical of the iconic Geheimrat J. Richard emphasized the wines’ longevity, noting: “Our wines need to age at least 10 years to truly shine because they often go through a ‘dumb phase’ around year 5—that’s why tasting a vertical like this reveals their full potential.” – Riesling Extra Brut Sekt (30 months on lees, base likely 2022; switched from Charmat to traditional method in 2021): Earlier picking for fresher grapes yields a vibrant sparkler with just 3 g/L residual sugar. Current production around 12,000 liters, with ambitious growth planned (20,000 in year 2, 25,000 in year 3—the next release not yet disgorged). Elegant and lively, with fine bubbles, crisp citrus, and mineral drive—a refreshing aperitif bursting with potential. – 2024 Rüdesheim barrel samples (from Berg Rottland, Berg Schlossberg, Kirchenpfad; quartzite and slate soils): Fruitier and chalkier on the nose and palate, evoking a Rheinhessen-like generosity—vibrant yellow fruit, subtle chalk minerality, and approachable charm even in youth. – 2024 Oestrich barrel samples (from Doosberg and Lenchen GG sites; clayish marl soils): More restrained and profound—mineral-driven with lime zest, spicy notes, subtle vegetal undertones, and a mysterious depth that hints at great aging potential. – 2023 Geheimrat J: Fruity and opulent yet flirty and fascinating; broad-shouldered with enticing pomelo and passion fruit aromas. Richard called it potentially one of the best vintages—vibrant, layered, and irresistibly charming. – 2018 Geheimrat J: Emerging from its dumb phase; mineral core with exotic fruits, spicier and more herbal complexity—evolving beautifully with added depth and intrigue. – 2013 Geheimrat J (cool, rainy late September with botrytis influence): Exotic fruits and honeysuckle on the nose, enlivened by vibrant acidity and saline, sea-shore minerality—a balanced, evolving masterpiece. – 2023 Berg Schlossberg GG (Richard’s longtime favorite; shifted from stainless steel to super-old oak, now 2nd- and 5th-use barrels): Intensive and broad, yet socially pleasant—powerful slate-driven minerality, concentrated fruit, and harmonious structure that invites lingering sips. – 2015 Berg Rottland Spätlese (just released; only 3,000 bottles sold, 10,000 remaining): Amazing ripeness shines through with intense passion fruit notes, balanced by beautiful freshness—lush yet precise,
Bubbles Magic: My Enchanting Visit to Weingut Barth in the Rheingau
Nestled in the heart of the Rheingau, in the charming village of Hattenheim near Oestrich-Winkel, lies Weingut Barth – a family-run estate that beautifully bridges tradition and innovation in German winemaking. My recent visit, guided by the passionate Marketing Manager Janna, offered an intimate glimpse into this VDP member winery, renowned for its exceptional sparkling wines (Sekt) crafted using the traditional method. Weingut Barth’s story is one of postwar resilience and sparkling ambition. Founded in the 1940s by Hans Barth, the estate truly ignited its fizz under Norbert – Christine Barth’s father – who pioneered traditional-method Sekt production in the Rheingau. Today, Mark Barth, a Geisenheim-trained visionary and self-styled “Riesling Master,” being their core focus, helms the winemaking alongside his wife Christine. Their philosophy is to craft Sekts that radiate “inner peace” through patient, natural vinification, capturing the soul of historic vineyards with refreshing innovation. Germans may have reduced wine consumption dramatically but the sparkling wine consumption remains strong. Spanning around 20 hectares of organically farmed slopes – including crown jewels like the VDP.Grosse Lage Hattenheimer Hassel and VDP.Erste Lage Schützenhaus – the estate is a Riesling stronghold (over 80% of plantings), complemented by Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and bold experiments like Cabernet Sauvignon. Biodiversity thrives here: wild herbs and flowers dance between rows, hand-harvesting ensures perfection, and vegan practices honor the land for generations to come. What sets Barth apart is their devotion to Sekt as art. “Sparkling, Family Tradition – Open Minded,” Janna, our host and hospitality representative beamed, encapsulating their ethos. All Sekts are vintage-dated, born from traditional bottle fermentation with extended sur lie aging – the longest now stretching to five years for upcoming Wisselbrunnen Grosse Gewächs releases from 2023. Producing about 60,000 bottles annually, they currently disgorge by hand, riddling on pupitres (some whimsically hand-painted with Picasso-inspired motifs). Next year brings automation to scale their magic without compromise. All sparklings are vintage, but only declared with the single vineyards, much easier from the processing point of view for Barth and their clients. A delightful detour: the collaborative “Riegel” spirit (echoing partnerships in the region), where growers pool premium grapes for communal bases, each imprinting their unique label – a testament to Rheingau’s shared pursuit of excellence. The pinnacle was the tasting in their award-winning vinotheque, where Barth’s style unfolded like a masterpiece: mineral-laced freshness, creamy depth from lees, and gastronomic allure that dances on the palate. Standouts from their vast range: The prestige lineup? Transcendent. From vibrant entry-level sparks to prestige profundity, Barth’s Sekts aren’t mere drinks – they’re terroir-kissed elixirs that rival the world’s finest, blending tradition with fearless innovation. As Janna reflected, eyes sparkling: “We’re a family pouring heart into every bubble.” If your soul craves bubbles that captivate, evoke, and elevate, seek out Weingut Barth. One sip, and you’ll be enchanted forever.
Discover the WineBANK: A Paradise for Passionate Oenophiles
Imagine a place where your finest bottles are stored in perfect, climate-controlled vaults, where you can pop in at midnight for a spontaneous tasting, and where fellow wine lovers gather to share stories over exquisite pours. I recently stepped through its doors into a magical world for oenophiles—a true « wine bank » where your precious bottles are safeguarded like treasures in a vault, secure, insured, and aging gracefully while you hold the key. That’s the magic of wineBANK, a revolutionary private members’ club that’s redefining how we experience wine. Born from the vision of one innovative winemaker—it’s a lifestyle, a community, and a gateway to the world of vinous delights. If you’re a wine enthusiast, buckle up as we dive into the story of wineBANK, its charismatic founder, and why it’s becoming the ultimate destination for those who live and breathe wine. At the heart of wineBANK is Christian Ress, a name synonymous with innovation in the German wine scene. As the co-owner and managing director of the historic Weingut Balthasar Ress—a VDP estate established in 1870—Ress dreamed up the concept back in 2003. He wanted a space where wine aficionados could securely store their collections, enjoy tastings on demand, and connect with like-minded souls. By 2008, that dream materialized into the first wineBANK in his hometown of Hattenheim, Rheingau, Germany. Ress, with his deep roots in winemaking, saw an opportunity to blend tradition with modern convenience, creating a franchise model that’s now spanned continents. His passion for wine is more than a business, it’s personal, fueling a network that celebrates the joy of discovery and sharing. wineBANK isn’t your average wine cellar; it’s a sophisticated members-only club designed for those who treat wine as a passion project. The core idea? Personal lockers in climate-controlled environments (think 10-16°C and 65% humidity) where your bottles age gracefully, safely and ready for enjoyment. But here’s what truly elevates it: seamless 24/7 access in most locations, paired with intelligent motion sensors that instantly sense your arrival and cue the perfect music mood the moment you step through the door—transforming every entrance into an effortless, welcoming experience that feels almost magical, “By the Glass” dispensers for sampling chilled wines at the push of a button, and an honesty bar for casual sips. The franchiser and cellar master have sole discretion over the selection of enomatic bottles and availability tasting bottles from other cellar members. With over 19 locations across four countries—including Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and even the USA—members use a single card to unlock doors worldwide, fostering a global vinophile community of more than 3,000 enthusiasts. It’s all about that shared passion: “One club, one community, one passion—wine.” Let’s zoom in on where it all began with our guides Julia Deissroth (Marketing & Events) and Sophia Königseder (Sales & Expansion) as they guided us through our tour of the wineBANK Rheingau location. This inaugural spot, opened in 2008, transformed two historic vaulted cellars from the 17th and 20th centuries into a stylish haven. Renovated with sustainability in mind—using local slate from Bacharach, quartzite from the Taunus mountains, and UV-free LEDs—the space exudes old-world charm meets modern elegance. It boasts nine vaults, 223 lockers, and capacity for a staggering 33,118 bottles, plus dedicated storage for magnums and larger formats. Three private cellars offer ultimate seclusion for those special collections. A highlight for collectors in the wineBANK Rheingau is the dedicated storage for large-format bottles from Weingut Balthasar Ress, home to one of the region’s most impressive collections of these majestic vessels. These oversized bottles—ranging from magnums to impressive Nebuchadnezzars and beyond—not only age wines more gracefully due to their lower oxygen exposure but often feature stunning artistic elements that elevate them to true collector’s items. Inspired by icons like Château Mouton Rothschild, the Ress family launched an artist label series in the late 1970s, commissioning renowned artists to design unique labels for limited-edition wines. Starting with Heinz te Laake in 1978 and continuing through 15 editions until 1997 (featuring artists like Heinrich Richter, Jörn Kausch, and Ottmar Alt), these bottles blend exceptional Rieslings with original artworks—some signed, numbered, and even accompanied by framed prints. Though the annual series ended, the tradition lives on for special occasions, creating rare, emotionally charged pieces that marry fine wine with fine art. Storing these grand, art-adorned formats in the wineBANK’s historic vaults adds an extra layer of prestige, making them perfect centerpieces for events or long-term aging of wine art. What sets wineBANK apart are the perks that turn wine storage into a full-fledged lifestyle. Beyond the lockers, enjoy moderated tastings, vineyard tours, and exclusive events like the wineBANKer’s Table—Seasonal gatherings, after-work drinks, and extravagant soirées keep the calendar buzzing. In Rheingau, members get special pricing on Balthasar Ress wines delivered straight to their lockers, plus discounts on tastings and even overnight stays in the estate’s suite. Partnerships with local spots like Adlerwirtschaft or Zum Krug let you bring your own bottles for corkage-free dining, weaving wineBANK seamlessly into your everyday adventures. For lifestyle enthusiasts, it’s a sanctuary to explore, share, and savor—networking with winemakers and attending global events. On the business side, the franchise model attracts entrepreneurs, hoteliers, and real estate pros who transform underused spaces into thriving hubs. It supports wine sales, partnerships, and tourism, making it a vinous ecosystem where producers and consumers connect. “Wine & passion” isn’t just a phrase; it’s the ethos, highlighted in the club’s journal featuring stories from sommeliers, members, and partners who live for that perfect pour. In a world where wine is more than a drink—it’s an art, a story, a connection—wineBANK stands as the ultimate vault of possibilities. If this sparks your curiosity, why not explore membership? Your next great bottle (and friendship) might be waiting in those historic cellars. Cheers! Check out their website for more information: https://www.winebank.de/en/home
Step Back into Gilded Age Glamour: The Breakers During the Holiday Season in Newport, RI
Travel enthusiasts and Gilded Age lovers, if you’re dreaming of a winter escape that drips with old-world opulence and festive sparkle, look no further than Newport, Rhode Island. The Breakers—the breathtaking Vanderbilt summer “cottage” that defines the extravagance of America’s elite era—transforms into a true holiday masterpiece. Every holiday season, the Newport mansions are decorated to the nines—and The Breakers stands out as the absolute crown jewel! I’ve visited this Vanderbilt masterpiece at least six times, and let me tell you, it never fails to leave me in absolute awe. The sheer scale, the beauty, the way it transports you straight back to the Gilded Age… it’s beyond impressive. What makes it even more magical is how flawlessly the Preservation Society of Newport County brings it all to life. They do such a fabulous job curating these holiday displays. The attention to detail feels like stepping into a living postcard from the era of lavish balls and oceanfront grandeur. Picture wandering through this 70-room Italian Renaissance-style palace, where platinum-paneled walls, intricate mosaics, and soaring marble arches are draped in miles of fresh evergreen garlands, velvet ribbons, and twinkling lights. Nearly 30 Christmas trees stand proudly throughout the mansion, each one uniquely themed to its historic room: the library’s tree adorned with leather-bound books and quills, Mr. Vanderbilt’s personal tree decorated with miniature trains and top hats in homage to his railroad empire, and the Music Room’s elegant display echoing the grandeur of the era’s legendary balls. The centerpiece? A jaw-dropping 15-foot poinsettia tree in the Great Hall, crafted from hundreds of live blooming plants—a vivid crimson spectacle beneath the mansion’s gilded 50-foot ceiling. Fresh orchids, roses, and seasonal blooms spill from mantels and tables, filling the air with subtle fragrance while Victorian-inspired wreaths crown every doorway. One of my favorite memories: my daughter, using crutches at the time, got to ride the historic two-person 18th-century elevator (yes, The Breakers has an original early elevator that’s still in service for accessibility between floors!). It was her absolute highlight—such a cool, rare glimpse into how the Vanderbilts moved through their own palace. And the docents? They’re pure gold—always warm, incredibly knowledgeable, and genuinely happy to answer every question you throw their way. They make the history feel personal and alive. Step outside after dusk for Sparkling Lights at The Breakers: a magical half-mile illuminated path winding across the oceanfront grounds. Hundreds of thousands of lights outline the historic facade, trace the manicured hedges, and create whimsical glowing scenes—think reindeer silhouettes, oversized ornaments, and cascading light tunnels—all set to gentle holiday music drifting through the crisp sea air. Warm up with hot cocoa or a seasonal cocktail on the terrace as you gaze at the Atlantic twinkling in the distance. For anyone captivated by the romance of the Gilded Age or simply seeking a uniquely elegant way to celebrate the season, The Breakers at Christmastime is pure enchantment. The holiday decorations typically remain on display through early January—perfect timing for a cozy New England getaway. Who else loves blending history with holiday magic?
Creative, Happy Place of Gesine Roll
Imagine this: wine so vibrant and precise that one sip pulls you straight into the rolling, limestone-rich hills of Rheinhessen – Germany’s most dynamic wine region. At the forefront of this renaissance are two extraordinary young winemakers whose deep personal drive, infectious joy, and fearless creativity are reshaping what German wine can be. This two part article dives into the worlds of winemakers Gesine Roll and Tobias Kramer. You are standing on a high plateau in Rheinhessen, the wind whispering through vines heavy with promise, overlooking legendary sites like Morstein and Kirchspiel in nearby Westhofen. This is Weingut Weedenborn in Monzernheim – a place where tradition meets bold vision, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme, and the soils are rich in limestone and basalt. Here, a moderate cooling climate and the coolest sites guarantee perfect ripeness, creating wines that burst with energy and precision. What drives Gesine? A profound belief in patience, humility, and letting exceptional terroir speak for itself. Her winery is her self-described happy place – a space of determined creativity and genuine warmth that shines through in every bottle and every heartfelt homemade lunch she shares with visitors. Gesine isn’t chasing approval; she’s building a legacy rooted in authenticity and joy. What started as a historic family farm – grandparents raising animals, parents diversifying into other crops – transformed into a pure viticultural gem when Gesine Roll took over in 2005. With ~20 hectares of family-owned vineyards, Gesine has turned heads (and palates) by putting Sauvignon Blanc front and center: a whopping 13 hectares, about 50-65% of the plantings. Rounded out by Chardonnay (some vines dating back to 1992, Germany’s first legal year), Weissburgunder, Riesling, and Pinot Noir, her focus is laser-sharp. From a young age, she was deeply drawn to architecture &exploring design, envisioning environments shaped by form and function. However, at the age of 15, she made the deliberate decision to continue the family tradition, transitioning from architectural pursuits to the heritage and responsibilities of winemaking. She said “had I not followed this path, I would likely have pursued a career in fine woodworking—crafting bespoke pieces from carefully selected timbers, where precision joinery, thoughtful design, and the natural beauty of wood converge to create enduring, handcrafted objects of both utility and artistry.” And the accolades? In 2024, Gesine was crowned Falstaff Female Winemaker of the Year among many other awards– a huge nod to her vibrant, juicy, expressive whites that are rewriting Rheinhessen’s story beyond Riesling. ONE CORRECTION FOUND: Also several other awards Gault & Millau wine personality of the year -23, Vinum -25 & -24 Best Sauvignon Blanc of the year. Meeting Gesine is like chatting with a force of nature – humble yet fiercely passionate. Her philosophy? Patience, humility, consequence, passion, and focus. “We want to make passionate, quality wine without complexity,” she says with a smile, shunning trends like non-alcoholic wines or fleeting fads like Pet-Nat. Instead, she lets the terroir speak: those unique limestone soils, high altitudes (200-265m) for cooler temps, slow ripening, and that perfect balance of acidity and aroma – no “green” notes here! Her style is all about energy and precision: spontaneous fermentation, reductive winemaking, and generous aging. Notably, her Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay follow the same winemaking approach. Top cuvées like “Terra Rossa” (from red limestone sites rich in iron oxide) spend 18-20 months in 500L French oak (60-65% new), plus time on lees and in bottle. The result? Wines that explode with freshness, minerality, and layered complexity – elegant, pure, and utterly drinkable. Gesine said “ to create a great wine, it needs silence.” We tasted a stunning vertical of Sauvignon Blanc Terra Rossa, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay Reserve, and the pinnacle Grande Réserve – here are the brief notes that captured the moment: Sauvignon Blanc Terra Rossa Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (often called Fumé for its smoky oak influence) Chardonnay Reserve Grande Réserve (more Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc in the blend)Gesine notes that this needs more silence and time – “Sauvignon Blanc is a louder grape.” It wasn’t always smooth sailing. It took time for Gesine to find her Sauvignon Blanc style. It wasn’t till 2016 that she truly felt confident. Early skeptics asked, “Why Sauvignon Blanc instead of Riesling?” in a region long underrated for premium wines. But Gesine bet on exceptional sites, long aging, and collaboration. As a founder of the “Message in a Bottle” group in 2002 – 25 ambitious young winemakers united to champion Rheinhessen’s chalky terroir – she helped shift perceptions and elevate the entire area. Her signature is long post-fermentation lees aging, and since 2011 she’s been crafting Reserve wines in large 500L. Today, Weedenborn is celebrated for world-class quality (VDP-recognized, though independent), mentoring the next generation, and proving you can go all-in on one variety and still reflect pure terroir. As if the wines weren’t generous enough, Gesine surprised us by preparing a beautiful lunch herself – a warm, heartfelt touch that made the visit feel like being welcomed into a friend’s home. The highlight was her signature quiche, golden and fluffy, packed with seasonal vegetables and just the right creamy richness. Paired with a crisp glass of Sauvignon Blanc, it was the perfect savory counterpoint to the afternoon’s vibrant tasting – grounding, comforting, and utterly delicious. It truly felt like the ideal close to a day filled with inspiration, flavor, and genuine hospitality. Spending time with Gesine Roll at Weedenborn feels electric – a tale of quiet defiance, deep roots, and soaring ambition. Gesine Roll isn’t just crafting wines; she’s building a legacy, one thrilling, mineral-kissed sip (and bite) at a time. If you’re exploring Rheinhessen, put this on your must-visit list. Trust me, you’ll leave inspired… and thirsty for more! 🍷 Next stop, an evening with Tobias Kramer of Weingut Krämer.
An Evening with Tobias Krämer: Straight Talk
It was one of those cozy winter evenings in Wiesbaden, the kind where the air carries a crisp chill and the promise of good conversation over glasses of wine. We sat down with Tobias Krämer, the young winemaker behind Weingut Krämer for an intimate interview and tasting. At just 31, Tobias exudes a quiet confidence, the sort earned from growing up among vines and now steering his family’s eighth generation winery into a new era. Gau-Weinheim, a charming wine village nestled in the heart of Rheinhessen—Germany’s largest wine region, often called the “land of a thousand hills.” Rheinhessen is renowned for its diverse grape varieties, innovative young winemakers, and a remarkable renaissance in quality dry Rieslings and other whites, shedding its old association with mass-produced sweet blends to emerge as a hotspot for fresh, terroir-driven, and exciting wines. But there is one special estate, a hidden jewel amongst gems, WKrämer. What fuels Tobias? An unbreakable connection to his family’s eighth generation roots combined with an urgent desire to prove Rheinhessen’s world-class potential. His wines are straight, creative & innovative. The Krämer estate is compact and personal—around 13 hectares of vineyards dotted across limestone-rich slopes like the impressive Gau-Weinheim—but it’s deeply rooted. “My vineyards come from both sides of the family,” Tobias explained as he poured the first glass. “Part from my father’s side, part from my mother’s, just a few kilometers apart. That gives us these wonderful microclimates to play with.” He smiled, recalling how his father was the first in the family to shift from bulk agriculture to bottling and selling wine directly to customers. “Before that, it was mostly farming with a bit of wine on the side. Now, we’re all in.” As Tobias said with a smile, three words that describe my wines are Straight, Creative & Innovative. As we swirled and sipped his flagship Straight Riesling 2024—the wine he calls his “business card” and the heart of the winery’s identity—the conversation flowed naturally. This young vintage burst with vibrant freshness: juicy yellow peach, zesty citrus, and subtle herbal notes, all underpinned by a crisp, mineral backbone that makes it athletic and invigorating, just as Tobias describes his style. This Riesling is everything Tobias stands for: mineral-driven, fresh, clear, and what he describes as “athletic” in structure. “It’s not overly round or ripe,” he said, gesturing animatedly. “We want that balance, that freshness from our cool climate and limestone soils. Riesling is our identity here—it’s what we do best.” We moved on to the Straight Sauvignon Blanc 2024, sourced purely from the Gau-Weinheim sites. It jumped from the glass with exotic energy—lime zest, gooseberry, papaya, and a cheeky streak of passionfruit, backed by lively acidity and a mouthwatering mineral snap. “Fein, frech und fruity,” as one might say: bold, fun, and unmistakably Rheinhessen. Next came the Straight Chardonnay 2024, a clear, powerful expression with exotic hints of quince and ripe pear, wrapped in a smoky finesse that speaks of careful craftsmanship—elegant yet approachable, with great length. Tobias’s journey into winemaking feels almost predestined. “From childhood, I knew I wanted to make wine,” he shared with a chuckle. “I’d be out on the tractor in the vineyards as a kid, loving every minute.” But it wasn’t without challenges. After his apprenticeship in 2009 at several estates, where he learned everything from solo cellar management in small operations to teamwork in larger ones, he returned home ready to innovate. One anecdote stands out: pushing to plant new blocks on steep hills. “My father was traditional, a bit hesitant at first,” Tobias admitted. “But he supported me. We’ve blended old knowledge with new ideas.” The single-vineyard gems stole the show later in the evening. The Kaisergarten Gau-Weinheimer 2022 (likely a Chardonnay from this prized site) delivered exceptional density and minerality, with complex smoky notes, quince, and pear—straff, structured, and lingering beautifully. Then the La Roche Riesling 2020, from the red slate soils shared with legends like Niersteiner Rotenhang: intensely mineral and saftig, loaded with citrus, ripe stone fruit, and a firm, structured grip that promises even more with age. We finished with the maiden vintage, La Roche 2016—Tobias’s first solo statement from this site. Even after years in bottle, it showed youthful vitality layered with deeper complexity: concentrated fruit, pronounced minerality from the Rotliegend, and that elegant, juicy tension that marks great terroir-driven Riesling. We’d tasted blind a few wines, comparing to pricier benchmarks like Herman J Wiemer Riesling “People pay $35 for that,” he laughed. “But blind? Our quality holds up, and at €10-12 a bottle in Germany, it’s about making great wine accessible—a big table where everyone is welcome.” I encouraged Tobias to take the remainder of the bottle home to share with his wife Laura even running her own label, “Aura.” They have a harmonious collaboration that mirrors inspiring industry duos, where each partner pursues their vision while supporting the other, fostering innovation rather than competition. Marketing is where Tobias’s modern side really sparkles. He’s part of a young generation elevating Rheinhessen’s reputation, once overshadowed but now buzzing with quality-driven peers. Social media plays a big role, along with partnerships. A high-profile collaboration providing wines for VIP events tied to German football. “It’s a fantastic opportunity,” Tobias said, eyes lighting up. “Getting our Riesling in front of thousands, demystifying German wine—moving past those old stereotypes of sweet stuff in blue bottles from the ’70s and ’80s.” Climate challenges came up too—droughts, hotter summers atypical for their cool sites. “But our spread of vineyards helps,” he noted. “Some have better water access; we blend for consistency.” As the evening wound down, glasses empty and stories shared, it was clear: Tobias is honoring his roots while pushing forward, one straight, mineral-kissed sip at a time. He is driven by a mission to demolish old stereotypes and invite everyone to the table with wines that are honest, exciting, and unmistakably Rheinhessen.
Riesling Revolution: Martin Tesch’s Nahe Magic
My recent trip to Germany had a twofold purpose: first, to demystify the often misunderstood world of German wine, peeling back layers of complexity beyond labels and classifications; and second, to dive deeper into the nuances of its signature grape, Riesling, in hopes of converting me—a devoted Chenin Blanc lover—into an even greater Riesling devotee. What better place to start than in the Nahe region, where I spent an enlightening day with the visionary winemaker Martin Tesch. Meeting Martin was like chatting with a philosopher who just happens to make exceptional wine. Charismatic and deeply thoughtful, he’s the driving force behind Weingut Tesch’s evolution. As he put it quite simply, I describe my wines as New Old School, Innovative & Rebellious. Nestled in the picturesque Nahe valley in the village of Langenlonsheim—one of the region’s largest winegrowing municipalities with around 187 hectares of vineyards—Weingut Tesch is more than just a winery—it’s a living testament to Germany’s rich viticultural heritage. Born into a family with centuries of winemaking tradition, Martin’s path to becoming a winemaker was both scientific and serendipitous. He studied microbiology, where he discovered his enthusiasm for fermentation processes of all kinds. This academic background led him back to the family estate, which he has run since 1997. In 2001, he embarked on a transformative journey, reinventing the winery by focusing primarily on dry Rieslings produced with minimal intervention, reducing the family’s portfolio from plus 50 to 6 wines. Often seen as a trailblazer who “follows the science,” even if it means bucking traditions that some peers view as unconventional, Martin’s journey reflects a blend of heritage and innovation. Martin’s independence is the key to his success. From an early age, Martin was fascinated by punk music. He befriended the famous German punk band Die Toten Hosen at their second concert outside Düsseldorf and later created several private-label wines with them. He left the VdP (Germany’s prestigious wine association which his grandfather founded in 1901) to forge his own path, emphasizing individuality over conformity. “The road to success is not a group travel. You need to be individual,” he told me, and it’s paid off. His customer base now includes young, educated wine lovers who crave authenticity and stories over fleeting trends. But wait, Martin said, to have a better understanding of my wines, you need to see where they come from. Immediately, Martin Tesch took us up to his vineyard, wanting us to really feel the story behind his wines before we started tasting. From a stunning viewpoint high above the steep, terraced slopes of the Nahe Valley, he introduced us to his pride and joy: the legendary St. Remigiusberg vineyard. First planted by Benedictine monks centuries ago and long considered one of the Nahe’s greatest sites, this parcel was split apart during the turmoil of the 16th-century Reformation. After hundreds of years divided, it’s only recently been brought back together through the passion and perseverance of Martin’s family and six families from the Netherlands. Now whole again at 4 hectares, the reunification is so much more than just gaining land. It’s a powerful, deeply symbolic “major step” in protecting a viticultural heritage that stretches back generations. Martin said it best, with real emotion in his voice: “You have a step every 300–400 years, and this was only three steps… you got to live one of the major steps.” Standing there among vines planted in ancient volcanic soil, you can’t help but feel the weight of history—and the quiet thrill of being part of its next chapter. Driving through the Nahe, Martin explained the empty plots—a stark sign of ongoing production reduction in the region as growers adapt to changing markets and climates. But the magic of Nahe isn’t lost. At the core of Weingut Tesch is Martin’s “new old school” philosophy—a brilliant blend of tradition and innovation. It’s about honoring the past while adapting to the present, ensuring the wines remain timeless yet relevant. Riesling, of course, takes center stage here, but Martin’s dry styles are a revelation. Sustainability is woven into every practice, though Martin shuns certifications. “People want to understand deeper than just a stamp… ‘organic’ isn’t a guarantee of taste,” he explained. Instead, it’s about handwork, minimal copper use, and a genuine respect for the land. This approach yields wines that are pure expressions of Nahe’s terroir—crisp, mineral-driven, and endlessly fascinating. Tasting them side by side, I felt the “new” in modern techniques like screw caps harmonizing with the “old school” essence of ancient vines and historical insights. His wines are crafted from 60-year-old vines, aged on lees for added complexity, and bottled under screw caps—a bold move Martin adopted in 2005 despite initial controversy. He also minimizes sulfites (down to 25 ppm post-bottling) and focuses on spicy, intricate profiles, like the “Unplugged” Riesling, which boasts lower sugar but heightened depth. Martin shared amusing anecdotes about label designs: an angel on one bottle raised eyebrows in the US for not being “fully clothed” enough, while Sweden questioned its age-appropriateness. His bold, modern labels—featuring vibrant color-coding inspired by the London Underground map, unique artwork for each vineyard (often with playful motifs like a king frog), and a consistent portrait of his great-grandfather—earned a prestigious Red Dot Design Award. These stories underscore the cultural tightrope of exporting authentic German wine, maintaining both traditional and modern art influences on each label. His son, set to carry the torch, plans to “stay small” and keep the “fun in winemaking” alive, rejecting mass-market temptations like “2 million bottles of alcohol-free wine.” In Martin’s words, “History means nothing… you can lose it in every generation. It’s just a starting point.” This mindset ensures Weingut Tesch isn’t resting on its laurels but building a future rooted in values: individuality, sustainability, and that unbreakable bond between people, place, and wine. How to promote Riesling, the issue with success of Riesling -Martin said Give Riesling a role – that doesn’t work- perfect for food pairings acid with fat and richness no matter