Visiting Weingut Wegeler with the Larger-Than-Life Richard Grosche
There’s something magical about the winding rivers and steep slate slopes of Germany’s wine regions, where history, terroir, and passion converge in every glass. My recent visit to Weingut Wegeler, nestled in the heart of the Rheingau and Mosel, was nothing short of enchanting. Guiding me through this vinous wonderland was Richard Grosche, the winery’s charismatic Managing Director—a true force of nature with an infectious enthusiasm for wine that makes every conversation feel like a celebration. Larger than life, with a booming laugh and stories that span continents, Richard is not only a passionate advocate for Riesling but also a market-savvy visionary: forward-thinking, creative, and deeply attuned to global trends. With over 20 years in the industry—including stints at top estates like Reichsrat von Buhl and Karthäuserhof—he has driven brand modernization, internationalization, and innovative projects that elevate traditional winemaking into the modern era. Interestingly, as a child Richard dreamed of becoming a teacher, and in many ways he has fulfilled that calling—sharing his encyclopedic knowledge of wine with infectious joy, turning every tasting into an inspiring lesson. Richard embodies the spirit of Wegeler: timeless quality infused with forward-thinking flair. As we strolled through the vineyards and tasted from the cellars, he shared insights that brought the estate’s legacy to vivid life. Founded in 1882 by Julius Wegeler—a visionary from the Deinhard family seeking independence and excellence—the estate remains family-run across four generations. “To make great wine, Wegeler needed not only capital, but also foresight,” Richard echoed the founder’s words. Today, under his dynamic leadership as Managing Director, the family blends deep tradition with passionate innovation: “We have to pursue viticulture, winemaking, and wine sales with foresight and passion!” Weingut Wegeler spans Oestrich-Winkel in the Rheingau (headquarters) and Bernkastel in the Mosel, with 42 hectares in Rheingau and 15 in Mosel. These include iconic grand cru sites, notably the largest holding in legendary Bernkasteler Doctor. Rheingau’s varied soils deliver structured Rieslings; Mosel’s steep slate slopes yield ethereal, mineral expressions. The portfolio also features the 4-hectare Krone estate in Assmannshausen, a VDP site dedicated entirely to elegant Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). A dedicated team ensures terroir-driven precision: In Rheingau, Michael Burgdorf (Product Manager and Cellar Master) and Andreas Holderrieth oversee operations; in Mosel, Norbert Breit crafts the slate-influenced Rieslings. Hand-harvesting, gentle processing, sustainable practices, and extended lees aging define their approach. As Richard puts it: “Our team ensures every wine reflects its origin—aged until optimally ripe.” Primarily a Riesling specialist, Wegeler produces everything from bone-dry Grosses Gewächs (like flagship Geheimrat J, blended from premier sites and lees-matured) to classic Prädikat levels showcasing vintage character. “Riesling is so versatile, shaped by origin, vintage, and the winemaker’s skill,” Richard noted, dismissing myths: “Riesling is sweet? Bah! Our dry styles prove it’s versatile and age-worthy.” Krone adds silky Pinot Noirs, with small sparkling volumes completing the range. Extended lees contact creates layered, long-lived wines. Under Richard’s creative direction, innovations like switching the Riesling Extra Brut Sekt to traditional bottle fermentation (from Charmat since 2021), earlier picking for fresher profiles, and ambitious production growth reflect his forward-thinking approach to elevating quality and appeal. When I asked Richard to distill the essence of Weingut Wegeler, he leaned in with that signature enthusiasm: “For us, it’s all about Tradition – Place – Prestige – Artisanal.” He elaborated passionately: “We stand on the shoulders of generations of winemaking tradition, rooted deeply in our unique places—the exceptional terroirs of Rheingau and Mosel. We build on this heritage with prestige that comes from uncompromising quality and iconic sites like Bernkasteler Doctor and our grand crus. And everything is done artisanal—hand-harvested, with meticulous care, respect for nature, and the patience to let the wines mature on the lees until they tell their full story. Quality is our philosophy, as Julius Wegeler said in 1882, and nothing has changed.” The pinnacle of the visit was an intimate tasting session with Richard, where we explored current releases, emerging projects, and a vertical of the iconic Geheimrat J. Richard emphasized the wines’ longevity, noting: “Our wines need to age at least 10 years to truly shine because they often go through a ‘dumb phase’ around year 5—that’s why tasting a vertical like this reveals their full potential.” – Riesling Extra Brut Sekt (30 months on lees, base likely 2022; switched from Charmat to traditional method in 2021): Earlier picking for fresher grapes yields a vibrant sparkler with just 3 g/L residual sugar. Current production around 12,000 liters, with ambitious growth planned (20,000 in year 2, 25,000 in year 3—the next release not yet disgorged). Elegant and lively, with fine bubbles, crisp citrus, and mineral drive—a refreshing aperitif bursting with potential. – 2024 Rüdesheim barrel samples (from Berg Rottland, Berg Schlossberg, Kirchenpfad; quartzite and slate soils): Fruitier and chalkier on the nose and palate, evoking a Rheinhessen-like generosity—vibrant yellow fruit, subtle chalk minerality, and approachable charm even in youth. – 2024 Oestrich barrel samples (from Doosberg and Lenchen GG sites; clayish marl soils): More restrained and profound—mineral-driven with lime zest, spicy notes, subtle vegetal undertones, and a mysterious depth that hints at great aging potential. – 2023 Geheimrat J: Fruity and opulent yet flirty and fascinating; broad-shouldered with enticing pomelo and passion fruit aromas. Richard called it potentially one of the best vintages—vibrant, layered, and irresistibly charming. – 2018 Geheimrat J: Emerging from its dumb phase; mineral core with exotic fruits, spicier and more herbal complexity—evolving beautifully with added depth and intrigue. – 2013 Geheimrat J (cool, rainy late September with botrytis influence): Exotic fruits and honeysuckle on the nose, enlivened by vibrant acidity and saline, sea-shore minerality—a balanced, evolving masterpiece. – 2023 Berg Schlossberg GG (Richard’s longtime favorite; shifted from stainless steel to super-old oak, now 2nd- and 5th-use barrels): Intensive and broad, yet socially pleasant—powerful slate-driven minerality, concentrated fruit, and harmonious structure that invites lingering sips. – 2015 Berg Rottland Spätlese (just released; only 3,000 bottles sold, 10,000 remaining): Amazing ripeness shines through with intense passion fruit notes, balanced by beautiful freshness—lush yet precise,
Bubbles Magic: My Enchanting Visit to Weingut Barth in the Rheingau
Nestled in the heart of the Rheingau, in the charming village of Hattenheim near Oestrich-Winkel, lies Weingut Barth – a family-run estate that beautifully bridges tradition and innovation in German winemaking. My recent visit, guided by the passionate Marketing Manager Janna, offered an intimate glimpse into this VDP member winery, renowned for its exceptional sparkling wines (Sekt) crafted using the traditional method. Weingut Barth’s story is one of postwar resilience and sparkling ambition. Founded in the 1940s by Hans Barth, the estate truly ignited its fizz under Norbert – Christine Barth’s father – who pioneered traditional-method Sekt production in the Rheingau. Today, Mark Barth, a Geisenheim-trained visionary and self-styled “Riesling Master,” being their core focus, helms the winemaking alongside his wife Christine. Their philosophy is to craft Sekts that radiate “inner peace” through patient, natural vinification, capturing the soul of historic vineyards with refreshing innovation. Germans may have reduced wine consumption dramatically but the sparkling wine consumption remains strong. Spanning around 20 hectares of organically farmed slopes – including crown jewels like the VDP.Grosse Lage Hattenheimer Hassel and VDP.Erste Lage Schützenhaus – the estate is a Riesling stronghold (over 80% of plantings), complemented by Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc), and bold experiments like Cabernet Sauvignon. Biodiversity thrives here: wild herbs and flowers dance between rows, hand-harvesting ensures perfection, and vegan practices honor the land for generations to come. What sets Barth apart is their devotion to Sekt as art. “Sparkling, Family Tradition – Open Minded,” Janna, our host and hospitality representative beamed, encapsulating their ethos. All Sekts are vintage-dated, born from traditional bottle fermentation with extended sur lie aging – the longest now stretching to five years for upcoming Wisselbrunnen Grosse Gewächs releases from 2023. Producing about 60,000 bottles annually, they currently disgorge by hand, riddling on pupitres (some whimsically hand-painted with Picasso-inspired motifs). Next year brings automation to scale their magic without compromise. All sparklings are vintage, but only declared with the single vineyards, much easier from the processing point of view for Barth and their clients. A delightful detour: the collaborative “Riegel” spirit (echoing partnerships in the region), where growers pool premium grapes for communal bases, each imprinting their unique label – a testament to Rheingau’s shared pursuit of excellence. The pinnacle was the tasting in their award-winning vinotheque, where Barth’s style unfolded like a masterpiece: mineral-laced freshness, creamy depth from lees, and gastronomic allure that dances on the palate. Standouts from their vast range: The prestige lineup? Transcendent. From vibrant entry-level sparks to prestige profundity, Barth’s Sekts aren’t mere drinks – they’re terroir-kissed elixirs that rival the world’s finest, blending tradition with fearless innovation. As Janna reflected, eyes sparkling: “We’re a family pouring heart into every bubble.” If your soul craves bubbles that captivate, evoke, and elevate, seek out Weingut Barth. One sip, and you’ll be enchanted forever.