La Carbona: Sherry & Michelin Stars in Jerez
Nestled in the sun-drenched heart of Jerez de la Frontera, Andalusia’s sherry capital, La Carbona occupies a space that’s equal parts history lesson and love letter to the region’s viticultural soul. Housed within the restored 19th-century Bodegas González Byass – the legendary cellars where Fundador Brandy has been aging for over two centuries – the restaurant feels like stepping into a time capsule. Exposed brick walls, vaulted stone ceilings, and towering oak barrels (some dating back to the 1800s) create an intimate, almost subterranean cocoon, where the air hums with the faint, nutty aroma of oxidative sherries fermenting nearby. It’s not your typical white-tablecloth affair; instead, it’s a rustic-elegant haven that blends industrial heritage with modern refinement. Outside, the cobbled streets of Jerez whisper of flamenco rhythms and equestrian parades, but inside, time slows to the deliberate pour of a fino from a criadera. We opted for the crown jewel of the menu: the 7-course tasting extravaganza, meticulously paired with an exclusive selection from González Byass’s sherry portfolio and a digestif flourish from Fundador Brandy. At €150 per person (a steal for this caliber), it promised – and delivered – a narrative arc of flavors that danced between the bracing salinity of coastal Jerez and the opulent depth of its solera-aged treasures. Chef Israel Rodríguez, La Carbona’s visionary, channels Andalusian tradition through a contemporary lens, drawing from the bodega’s own larder of seasonal bounty. Each course arrived like a chapter in an unpublished novella, with the sherries acting as both chorus and counterpoint. Service, led by sommelier extraordinaire Ana Morales, was poetic: unobtrusive yet profoundly knowledgeable, with pairings explained in hushed tones that felt like sharing secrets over a late-night copita. The overture opened with Sardinas Ahumadas – lightly smoked sardines atop a confit of onions and piquillo peppers, their briny punch tempered by a velvety Tío Pepe Fino (González Byass’s crisp, almond-flecked icon). The sherry’s marine edge cut through the fish’s richness like a Moorish blade, evoking Jerez’s Atlantic proximity. Next, a playful Gazpacho de Tomate y Pimiento followed, chilled to perfection with a swirl of basil oil and fermented garlic. Paired with a rare La Guita Manzanilla (nutty and saline, with chamomile whispers), it was summer in a bowl – refreshing yet intellectually layered, the sherry’s flor notes mirroring the soup’s subtle umami. Transitioning to heartier terrain, the Pollo Asado con Confited Garlic arrived as a golden, herb-crusted half-bird, its skin crackling under the fork, juices mingling with roasted carrots and a jus laced with bay leaf. Here, the Equipo Navazos Amontillado (dry, oxidative, with hazelnut and orange zest) stepped in like a mischievous storyteller, its oxidative bite amplifying the poultry’s savoriness without overwhelming. Midway, a palate-cleansing interlude of Molletes de Aceite – fluffy olive oil bread bites with anchovy butter – bridged to the main act: Costillas de Ternera Glaseadas, slow-braised short ribs that melted into oblivion, glazed with a reduction of Pedro Ximénez and wild thyme. The bold, raisiny PX Sherry (a González Byass classic) was pure decadence, its caramel depth wrapping the beef in a sweet-savory embrace that lingered like a flamenco echo. Vegetarian diversions shone too, with Pimientos del Padrón and Ensalada de Tomate providing bright, peppery interludes, their pairings a zippy Viña AB (young, fruity) that popped with citrus acidity. The crescendo built to Queso de Cabra con Membrillo, a creamy goat cheese from the Sierra de Grazalema, offset by quince paste and toasted Marcona almonds – elevated by the Oloroso Royal, a nutty, spicy sherry that evoked leather-bound libraries and forgotten cellars. The finale? A whisper of elegance in Helado de Turrón, almond nougat ice cream drizzled with honey and pistachios, before the brandy encore: a velvety sip of Fundador Supremo, its vanilla-oak warmth cutting through the dessert’s sweetness like aged wisdom. At 40% ABV, it was the perfect denouement – contemplative, not cloying. The atmosphere – dimly lit, with live guitar strums on weekends and the occasional sherry tasting in adjacent rooms – fosters romance and reverie, ideal for anniversaries or solo reflections. At one Michelin star since 2022, it earns every accolade for innovation rooted in reverence. Reflecting on this journey, it’s clear that Spanish sherry and brandy are more than beverages—they are cultural treasures that embody centuries of heritage, craftsmanship, and innovation. Whether savored in historic cellars or paired with culinary excellence, these spirits continue to inspire and enchant enthusiasts around the world, carrying forward a legacy as vibrant and enduring as Andalusia itself. If you’re in Andalusia, detour here; it’s not just a meal, but a memory etched in sherry’s amber glow.
Discovering Andalusia’s Spirit Heritage: A Journey Through Harveys Sherry and Fundador Brandy
My recent adventure in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain, was an immersive experience that truly highlighted the artistry and tradition behind some of the world’s most renowned spirits. Invited by González Byass, a name synonymous with Spanish vinicultural excellence and now part of the Alliance Global Group (a Philippine-owned company led by the Town family), I had the privilege of exploring their fully integrated operations — from grape to glass. We began our journey at the Torre Emperador Castellana, the tallest building in Madrid with a masterclass on the Harvey’s and Fundador portfolio, led by the enthusiastic and knowledgeable Livinia Stuyck (Head of Consumer Marketing Emperador Group) and Alberto Pizarro (Trade Ambassador, Emperador Group). Livinia shared insights into the rich history of Grupo Emperador, emphasizing the subtle yet vital differences between sherry and brandy — both in production and flavor profile. While they often share aging casks, sherry is a fortified wine, and brandy is distilled, each with its unique character shaped by factors like grape variety, aging, and oxidation. Note: the difference between Sherry and Brandy: -Sherry vs. Brandy: While both are often aged in the same casks, it’s important to remember that sherry is a fortified wine, while brandy is a distilled spirit -Flavor Profiles: Understanding how factors like cask age, grape variety, and oxidation method influence the final flavor profile is key to appreciating the nuances of each expression. The tasting highlighted both Harvey’s Sherry and Fundador Brandy. Harvey’s Bristol Cream evoked cozy evenings with rich dried fruits, caramel, and roasted nuts, beautifully balanced by Parmesan’s saltiness and nuttiness. Fun Fact: When chilled, the Harvey’s logo on the bottle turns blue—indicating the perfect serving temperature! Harvey’s Medium Dry Sherry delivered bright notes of apricot and citrus, paired with nutty cheeses as an ideal aperitif. Fundador Supremo 12 revealed vanilla, toasted oak, and dried plum, complementing creamy cheese. The Supremo 15 offered rich aromas of fig and spice, with a velvety palate of dried fruit and dark chocolate, best enjoyed with Parmesan. Finally, the Supremo 18, aged to perfection, presented a complex bouquet of fig, walnut, and leather, elevated by aged cheese. Following this insightful session, we savored an exquisite lunch at the Michelin-starred Élkar on the 33rd floor, boasting panoramic 360° views (as detailed in my previous post). The meal featured refined dishes—Parmesan mousse, Ibérico presá, and Tarta Ópera—paired with exceptional spirits and spirit based cocktails. Did you know that any whiskey- or bourbon-based cocktail can be swapped out for Fundador Sherry Cask Brandy or Harveys Sherry? This discovery really highlighted the incredible versatility of both sherry and brandy! Joined by Angel Piña Serrano (Global Chief Commercial & Marketing Office) and Oscar Vargas ( VP Marketing Pedro Domecq) we discovered the limited-edition Fundador 150 Aniversario, celebrating 150 years of craftsmanship. This extraordinary spirit is best savored neat, with dark chocolate as a divine pairing. As Angel wisely commented, “Once you open the bottle of 150, it has to be finished!” Next Stop: The Heart of Jerez de la Frontera My adventure unfolded in the sunny southern lands of Spain, an area steeped in centuries of history influenced by Moorish legacies, bustling trade routes, and a passion for quality. Wandering through lush vineyards and historic cellars, I felt fully immersed in a culture that honors its heritage while embracing innovation. Guided by the passionate Beatriz Fierro Clavero, Head of Consumer Marketing for the Emperador Group, whose deep knowledge brought every detail to life, our day started at El Majuelo Vineyard. Renowned for its exceptional albariza soil—white, chalky, porous, and limestone-rich—this terrain retains moisture expertly, creating ideal conditions for premium palomino grapes that yield some of Spain’s finest sherry wines. Next, we explored the historic cellars of Bodega de La Mezquita, built in 1974 with impressive mosque-style arches designed to maintain perfect humidity—a crucial element for aging. The construction ingeniously incorporates natural elements: window designs and ocean orientation for climate control. Spanning six buildings equivalent to four football fields in size, this complex—designed by Lopi Nodia over three years—blends Moorish architecture with nature, evoking a cathedral-like ambiance. Surrounded by over 40,000 sherry casks, some dating back to 1730, the scale was awe-inspiring. These casks aren’t mere storage; they’re living artifacts, seasoned like whiskey or bourbon barrels, imparting rich, layered flavors through the solera system—a tiered blending process ensuring consistent quality. Nearby, El Molino, the oldest bodega established in 1730, holds a distinguished place in Spanish winemaking history. It preserves traditional methods while integrating modern advancements, producing wines that reflect the region’s unique terroir with unwavering dedication to excellence. Passing through the Neoclassical Porta Rota gate at the bodega, I entered lush gardens that regulate humidity for the bodega, enhanced by the gentle flow of the River Guadalquivir. These gardens not only captivate visually but also create a vital microclimate, featuring artisan touches like handmade fishing nets crafted by local experts—emblems of regional tradition. The on-site museum revealed the estate’s storied past through artifacts, vintage tools, and photographs. The tasting included a range of spirits, each with its unique personality: We concluded with a delightful lunch at Casa Fundador Restaurante, featuring an incredible four-course meal paired with spirits and the newly launched Mica Fundador Sherry Cask beer. This Toro Amber Ale, aged in Oloroso sherry casks, boasts a rich amber hue with notes of dried fruit, toasted almond, and oak—Spain’s most awarded craft beer! From a Harvey’s Spritz with duck foie gras, pink pepper, and tomato jam to a Fundador Brandy Colada with brandy-infused tiramisu, every element was curated flawlessly. Beatriz insisted on tasting the exceptional Fundador Supremo 30, aged for three decades: deep, refined, and balanced, rich with dried fruit, toasted oak, and subtle spice—the epitome of aged brandy. This journey through Andalusia exemplified the rich heritage, masterful craftsmanship, and cultural significance of Spanish sherry and brandy. From historic vineyards and ancient cellars to curated tastings and exquisite pairings, these spirits transcend beverages—they are living testaments to tradition, innovation, and passion. Reflecting on this immersive experience, I appreciate
24 Hours In Madrid: Foodie’s Whirlwind Feast
We’re embarking on the González Byass Press Trip, curated by The Tourism Lab—24 immersive hours in Madrid, priming our palates before diving into the sherry and brandy heritage of González Byass, Harvey’s, and Fundador. Touch down with just one day to savor the city’s vibrant soul through exceptional cuisine. This isn’t a typical tour—it’s our exhilarating gastronomic journey across seven standout destinations: the timeless Chocolatería San Ginés for churros, a lively stop at Plaza Mayor beneath the iconic Tío Pepe sign, tapas delights at Mercado de San Miguel, an elevated lunch at Élkar on the 33rd floor, classic cocktails at Viva Madrid, and a refreshing close at Kala Greek Frozen Yogurt, with optional evening views from on high. Perfectly positioned in the historic center and business district (near Puerta del Sol, Gran Vía, and Paseo de la Castellana), these spots connect seamlessly via walks, metros, or quick taxis for an energizing, flavor-filled 24 hours. Get ready, food enthusiasts—Madrid’s culinary heights are calling us! Morning Kickoff: Sweet Start at Chocolatería San Ginés (9 AM – 11 AM) Kick off your adventure (or wrap up a late night—it’s open almost round-the-clock!) at this beloved 1894 gem hidden in Pasadizo de San Ginés, steps from Puerta del Sol. Indulge in crisp churros (or hearty porras) dunked in rich, pudding-like hot chocolate—a true Madrid essential. With marble tables and tiled charm, it’s a favorite for locals and visitors alike. Pro tip: The classic combo costs under €5 and provides the perfect fuel. Stroll 5 minutes west to Plaza Mayor next. Late Morning Highlight: Plaza Mayor Magic (11 AM – 11:30 AM) Pause in Madrid’s historic core at Plaza Mayor, a 17th-century masterpiece of arcades, frescoes, and energy. Capture the glowing Tío Pepe neon sign (a sherry icon since 1935) alongside the King Philip III statue. Enjoy street performers and a quick café con leche from a terrace—it’s free, fabulous for photos, and appetite-building. Head north 15 minutes on foot (or by metro/taxi) for more. Mid-Morning Grazing: Mercado de San Miguel (11:45 AM – 12:45 PM) Step into the elegant iron-and-glass haven of Mercado de San Miguel, a 1916 landmark turned premier food hall. Explore 30+ stalls brimming with Spanish gems: paper-thin jamón ibérico, calamari, olives of every kind, fresh oysters, regional cheeses, paella nibbles, and vermouth pours. Keep it light with calamares bocata or croquetas (€15-25). Vibrant yet top-quality—stand and savor. Then, taxi 10 minutes north along Gran Vía to soar upward. Sky-High Lunch: Élkar Excellence (1 PM – 3:30 PM) Ascend to the 33rd floor of Torre Emperador Castellana (over 160m up—Spain’s highest restaurant!) for Élkar’s “Gastronomía de Altura.” Panoramic windows reveal stunning 360° vistas of the Sierra, Bernabéu, and cityscape. Chef Fran Vicente’s Mediterranean menu dazzles: Parmesan mousse with pesto, premium bellota ham, pistachio ajo blanco with tuna and Jerez pearls, sea bass with beurre blanc and caviar, Ibérico presa with demi-glace and kumquat, or the exquisite Tarta Ópera. Enhance with Fundador infusions or cellar wines. Choose the executive menu or à la carte; book ahead. Sophisticated and inspiring—taxi 15 minutes south afterward. Early Afternoon Aperitivo: Viva Madrid (4 PM – 7 PM) Dive into Barrio de las Letras at Viva Madrid, a 1856 tavern reborn with flair by mixologist Diego Cabrera. Vintage tiles meet ‘20s tango ambiance as jazz hums in the background. Sip gin classics or try the standout Honey Moon cocktail—Pisco 1615 blended with spiced liquor, elderflower, lemon juice, and a whisper of smoked orange tree honey that adds a delightful, aromatic sweetness. Pair with upscale tapas such as truffle croquetas or vermouth olives. It’s the ideal relaxed aperitivo spot to unwind. Evening Finale: Kala Greek Frozen Yogurt (7 PM Onward) End on a fresh note at Kala on Calle de las Huertas: authentic Greek yogurt in creamy pistachio or fruit bases, topped with compote, berries, or crunch. Probiotic and portion-packed—perfect for strolling or bench-sitting. For night owls: Revisit San Ginés or taxi to Élkar’s bar for starry views and cocktails. In just 24 hours, experience Madrid’s core: timeless treats, plaza charm, market buzz, elevated feasts with Fundador elegance, spirited tapas, and cool refreshment. Arrive eager, depart delighted—¡Buen provecho! These gems glow anytime in this vibrant city, day or night.