The Elegance of Gonet Sulcova
You can’t judge an apple By looking at the tree You can’t judge honey By looking at the bee You can’t judge a daughter By looking at the mother And you can’t tell the book By looking at the cover You Can’t Judge A Book By It’s Cover – Bo Didley The reason why I selected these lyrics are because I had a preconceived notion as to how this wine would smell and taste being Blanc de Blancs champagne. I had a textbook Blanc de Blanc profile in mind prior to having my ideas fly completely out the window. As the old adage goes Never Assume … For the Gonet Sulcova’s, family is everything and everything is family. In 1985 Davy Sulcova and Vincent Gonet established the estate in Épernay in order to create their family brand Gonet-Sulcova. Their children Yan and Karla currently run the estate. A family domaine that is involved in every aspect of their champagnes – they WILL NOT release a champagne unless it is up to their high standards. It’s a fierce (and admirable in my opinion) sense of pride, a passion and a love for what they do throughout the three generations. Their sustainably farmed 20 hectares are located in Côte des Blancs (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru and Oger Grand Cru), Montgueux and Loches-sur-Ource. Their philosophy of low dosage and extended ageing requirements showcase the distinctive characteristics of the terroir. NOTE: This avant-garde family broke tradition with not only their labels but the shape of the bottles as well. All of their labels were designed by Davy Sulcova as a homage to her love of art nouveau and the Roaring 20’s vibe of the jazz dance age, the flapper girl, speakeasies and fashionable party lifestyle, with the exception of Cuvée Montgueux (designed as a dedication to the region). Champagne Gonet-Sulcova Gaia Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, France 12% abv Pours into the glass a rich yellow color. The bubbles are just so excited to jump out of the glass and meet you with intense aromas of lemon curd, golden apple, white blossom, vanilla, hazelnuts, toasty brioche and a chalky minerality. One sip and I was completely seduced by its charm. The aromas are present in the flavors as well as deep lemon curd, honeysuckle, pastry, vanilla, and long finish of hazelnut and minerality. The flavors are balanced with the low dosage and vibrant acidity. It has such a creamy and rich texture with a very long nutty mineral finish thanks to the extended minimum of 9 years of ageing and use of oak barrels. It’s an elegant yet rich and powerful champagne wrapped into a tidy bow of beauty. I paired it with one of my favorite salmon dishes – Salmon tartare with fresh chives and toasted crostini.
Let’s Get Gothic
A craving by definition is “powerful desire for something ….” It’s a desire for sensation. Be it food, wine, peace, knowledge, sense of belonging, human touch, beautiful words, a soft kiss, the list is limitless. I often have cravings for certain types of food and wine. It could be the change seasons, my mood or just because I REALLY WANT IT. You know what I mean, don’t you? Well today I was craving something otherworldly, something to rock my senses. I decided to go gothic – Gothic Wines that is. Located in McMinnville, Willamette Valley, Oregon, this region produces top quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. The red wines made here are elegant and structured, with complex flavors of dark fruit and spice. McMinnville is located in the southern area of Willamette Valley Oregon. It sits along the Coast Range foothills (protection from Pacific winds & rain shadow). In 2009 Josh Nadel left the NYC food and wine scene behind to create elegant food friendly wines inspired by the old world classics with minimalistic winemaking with limited releases. His wines draw inspiration from the 18th century Gothic Tales (as examples The Castle of Otranto by Horace Walpole, Frankenstein by Mary Shelley, Dracula by Bram Stoker) and this particular wine was named Eldritch (or Otherwordly because this wine is). Limited releases are the Hyland vineyard old vines which benefit from elevation (600-800feet), cool maritime Pacific air, red volcanic soils and a long ripening season thanks to low rainfall. This wine was briefly cold soaked, aged for 12 months in French oak (25% is new). Gothic Hyland Vineyard McMinnville Pinot Noir 2014 McMinnville AVA, Willamette Valley, USA Pours into the glass a pale ruby color. Swirl and the wildly perfumed aromatics of red berries, vanilla cherry cola and earthy mushrooms awaken the senses. Sip and the taste of crunchy red fruits assaults you – cranberry, red plum and strawberry, delicate floral and earthy mushrooms and truffles progress seamlessly into cloves, cinnamon (thanks to 25% new French oak) and finishes on just ripe earthy rhubarb bite. The tannins are supple and silky, the acid is lively and fresh. It’s a rendezvous for the senses – it’s gracefulness is intertwined with exotic & savory. I paired this lovely Pinot with a One Pan Spiced (sweet paprika, dried sage and garlic) Spiced Chicken Breasts with Roasted Butternut Squash and Kale. My craving was successfully satisfied.
Passerina del Frusinate
Passerina is an autochthonous white grape hailing from the Adriatic coast of Italy. The majority are found in Marche region but also in other regions of central Italy- Abruzzo, Emilia-Romagna and Lazio. One belief is that the name is derived from the sweet grapes were devoured by sparrow’s (Passera) and “ina” meaning small for the small size of the grapes, hence the name. The style of the wine varies greatly by region but in general it can make a variety of styles of wine be it still, sparkling or even sweet. Meet an interesting example of this grape from Alberto Giacobbe. A family winery founded in 1939, the 15 acre Azienda Agricola Giacobbe utilizes 9 acres for wine and the remaining for olives and other crops. Their bond with the land, history and tradition are what keeps them focused – case in point this wine Maddalena is named after and dedicated to Alberto’s grandmother. Sustainable, indigenous varietals and 100% environmentally conscious. The 300m altitude, a mix of clay and limestone soils, the use of indigenous yeasts, the extended skin contact for 6-7 days, followed by temperature controlled stainless steel tanks 8-9 months of lees ageing all contribute to this unique skin contact wine’s character, acidity and flavor profile. Alberto Giacobbe Passerina del Frusinate IGT “Maddalena” 2019 Lazio IGT, Italy 13.5% 2 500 bottles produced Pours into the glass a deep golden color with an orange tinge. Swirl and strong notes of ripe citrus and tropical fruit emerge along with a soft herbal honey and earthy minerals. Sip and the soft, creamy texture is wrapped up with bone dry, low tannins and good, lively acidity. Freshly picked green apples and pears, green mango, lemon and orange pith, marmalade, hay into the herbal thyme and burnt caramel slightly bitter almond skin that lingers for quite awhile. Pair with butternut squash ginger soup, curried shrimp bundles or goat cheese thyme stuffed chicken.
Cookies & Wine
Chocolate Chip Espresso Cookie Pairing: Port is a classic pairing with semi-sweet chocolate, Cabernet Sauvignon – most people have a Cabernet Sauvignon on hand, be sure that the wine is of the same sweetness as the cookie, balances the black fruit, vanilla and caramel. Oatmeal Raisin Cookie Pairing Shiraz for when the time comes. Dark, with a spicy and peppery aftertaste, this is the ultimate “opposites attract” pairing. And while the full-bodied flavor of Shiraz might overwhelm the average cookie, it’s perfect for a dense oatmeal raisin. Chewy richness of the oatmeal, the sweetness of the raisins pairs well with an Oakey California Chardonnay. The raisins match the fruitiness and the chewiness of the wine’s richness. Vin Santo also pairs well – an amber colored wine with nut, raisin, honey and cream notes. If you like fortified wines, a Tawny Port is well suited for the baking spice, almond and caramel flavors. Sugar Cookie Pairing A lighter aromatic wine such as an Albariño, Torrontes, Viognier or Pinot Gris would pair nicely with a sugar cookie. The lighter cookie will be a compliment with a crisp, lively white, the acidity and vanilla of the cookie go nicely with the brown sugar element. A crisp, sparkling wine such as Bubbly, light, and just a tiny bit sour, champagne pairs perfectly with sugar cookies since it heightens their sweetness instead of competing with it. A nice dry prosecco is a great choice for sugar cookies. The more acidic taste of prosecco helps cut through the creamy, fatty taste of a good sugar cookie and the bubbles contrast nicely with the smooth cookie. Ginger Crackle Cookie Pairing Off-dry Riesling sweetness of peaches, nuts and orange blossom, a Sauternes sweet French desert wine with apricot, honey, and white floral notes. The light, fruity flavors of a good riesling create a nice contrast for the bold winter spices of a spicy gingerbread cookie, which enhances the flavors of both cookie and wine. The smooth, slightly oily texture of the wine also contrasts well with the rough texture of most gingerbreads. Jam Thumbprint Cookies Pinot noir is a light to medium bodied red wine that tends to take on red fruit flavors such as raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry so you have some options when baking! The bright, vanilla tones that come from the oak barrels will complement the not-so-sweet cookie base. This combination is tart and jammy. PB Cookies Strong flavors like peanut butter require a bold and sweet wine to compliment it. The nutty flavors found in a Tawny Port is perfect for a classic peanut butter cookie. For cookies that have raisins or chocolate, try a Ruby or LBV Port for perfection. also a Bual Madeira fresh acidity, moderate sweetness, and nutty character Madeiras are fortified wines that pack a wallop of flavor and a higher ABV that will bring an added punch to your cookie. Cranberry Pistachio Biscotti Vin Santo is a classic Italian pairing, this Chianti is a no-brainer. The wine is sweet but still comes off as an acidic dessert wine and easily complements a nutty and crispy biscotti
Manzone Rossetto Rarity
Have you ever heard of Rosserto? It is an extremely rare and native grape to Langhe, Piedmont. Thanks to the efforts and passion of Giovanni Manzone (of Azienda Agricola Giovanni Manzone, a well-known Barolo producer), he found and rescued the old vine from a family vineyard. The grape gets its name from its color – a white berry with a faint red glimmer. Manzone the best and only examples of this varietal, roughly 2,500 bottles produced per year. The family estate was founded by Giovanni Manzone in 1925. Their love of the land, strong tradition and dedication to native grapes of the region and are closely tied to Barolo wines, but also makes several Barbera d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba and Langhe DOC wines. This particular wine undergoes a short maceration on the skins before spontaneous and slow fermentation (approximately 10 days in 500 liter wooden barrels), before 12 months of lees ageing and then a further 12 months in the bottle. No clarification or filtration. It’s like a lighter version of a Vermentino but with more fleshy fruit and herbaceousness. Rossetto Rossese Bianco di Monteforte 2018 Azienda Agricola Giovanni Manzone Langhe DOC, Piedmont, Italy Pours into the glass a light golden color. Swirl and intriguing aromas of citrus, stone fruit, melon and apples, almonds, acacia, and hay. Sip and the palate has refreshingly awesome acidity and slight bitterness with flavors of citrus, fresh nectarines and apricots, pears and apples, almonds, saline and finishes on thyme, basil and mint. It’s pleasant, soft and at 12.5% it’s very easy drinking, fresh tasting. Pair with focaccia topped with pecorino and olives, grilled polenta with roasted mushrooms and thyme or pan fried snapper filets with lemon confit.
Pizzo Coca Chiavennasca
I am back in Northern Italy but this time to one of the smallest wine regions, Valtellina, Lombardy. A narrow snake of a valley region just south of the Swiss Alps stretches for 15 miles on either side of the town of Sondrio, part of which forms the border between Italy and Switzerland. Dramatic, steep and tiny in size terraced mountainside slopes at 220 to 760 meters are reminiscent of the slopes of the Douro or Mosel. The Adda River runs along the valley floor. Nebbiolo (the grape is known locally as Chiavennasca) is the main red grape. Quick Facts: Requirements for red wines: Rosso (90% Nebbiolo) and 10% ONARG Subzones: Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella. Aging: For Superiore, minimum 2 years, including 12 months in barrel, for Riserva, minimum 3 years Pizzo Coca Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2016 Lombardy, Italy Pizzo Coca is one of the smallest azienda agricola in Valtellina. Their 2 hectares are on extremely steep, rocky terrain (hence where it gets its name Inferno – the hot summer sun’s reflection on the rocks). These wines have character, ageability and elegance. Only 960 bottles made. 20 days maceration on the skins. 24 months of ageing, 12 months of which are in oak barrels. Traditional aging is made in large barres made from either chestnut or Slovenian oak. Pours into the glass a brilliant crimson hue with a garnet trim. Swirl and the rich bouquet roses, juicy red fruit, dried herbs are augmented with pencil shavings and tar. Sip and the medium bodied wine has a focused palate of juicy cherry, cranberry, roses, leather, tar, savory game and earth. The bright acidity and firm underlying tannins lead to a lingering finish, with an attractive mint , thyme and licorice hum. It’s approachable yet complex and full of lingering flavors I paired this gorgeous Nebbiolo with Spaghetti and my Weeknight Bolognese – delizioso!!
Music Of Etna – Girolamo Russo
Connection by definition is “a relationship in which a person, thing, or idea is linked or associated with something else.” That’s what I feel with Girolamo Russo’s wines – an immensely strong connection. From the first moment I smelled the aromatics, I was captivated. It was as if I had heard that special song – you know the one that I am talking about – that song that puts a smile on your face, makes your remember that certain kiss, that certain moment in time, every single time you hear it. That is the effect of his wines. Music and wine are both passions, they are life for Girolamo Russo. He orchestrates his domaine as would a conductor of music. He is an enological guru and his wines are a symphony of songs. The organically farmed 15 hectares are located on the northern slopes of Mount Etna. He produces 4 levels of Etna Rosso, ranging from the introductory A’Rina to the “Crus” of Feudo, San Lorenzo and Feudo di Mezzo. The high altitudes of 650 and 780 meters, rich volcanic mineral soil and 80 year old plus bush vines all contribute character and finesse to the wines. Girolamo Russo Etna Rosso 2018 Etna, Sicily, Italy Blend: 94% Nerello Mascalese & 6% Nerello Cappuccio Pours into the glass a bright ruby color. Swirl and the aromatic jewels has concentrated aromas of cherry, strawberry, plum, tobacco leaf, leather and roses. Sip and the terroir of Etna is ever present- the rich minerality, ash and smoke, loads of juicy ripe red fruits, blood orange, dried herbs, leather and roses. The fresh acidity, fine grain tannins and persistent finish are all in harmony. It’s seductive in its elegance. It’s so incredibly easy drinking and has the purity of Etna wrapped up in one beautiful wine. Have your senses ever felt so alive? Well if not, it’s time to change your wine enjoyment experience. Allow your senses to be invoked, be part of the journey. Pour yourself a glass of this wine and embrace the last days of summer. Close your eyes, allow the voyage to transcend you to new and exciting experiences. Let the magic of Girolamo Russo wines take you to new and exciting places. Additional article on the producer, Etna Russo and Etna Bianco
Pecorino The Grape – Torre de Beati
The wine train has travelled south and stopped in Abruzzo. Pecorino is a salty sheep’s milk cheese but it is also a grape. It is mostly found in the eastern coastal regions of Marche and Abruzzo. It shares its name (pecora which means sheep) with the cheese. Legend has it when the shepherds were herding their flock through the mountains from Abruzzo to Puglia the furry creatures would snack on the ripe sugared grape thus given the grapes the name Pecorino. One of Abbruzzo’s oldest wineries, the 17 hectare family owned winery, all organic and wanderlust for what is grown in Abruzzo. They have altitude and high diurnal temperature swings which all contribute freshness to their wines. They pass through the vineyard 5 to 6 times only selecting the ripest grapes each time to allow them to perfect ripeness. After all, nature is in charge of the process. This 100% Pecorino stainless steel fermentation to preserve it’s elegant aromas and the 6 months ageing on the lees to bring texture and roundness to this wine. Torre dei Beati Giocheremo Con i Fiori Pecorino 2019 100% Pecorino Abruzzo DOC, Italy Pours into the glass a medium yellow color. Swirl and the rich aromas of orange blossom, acacia, apple, pear and melon, lemon and lime, honey and herbal. Sip and this medium bodied wine brings together the saline, citrus, green fruit, floral and herbal sage and rosemary along with beeswax in harmony. The spine of the wine is the acidity, the texture is creamy and lingers on the savory tanginess. It has a lovely presence and mouth watering character. The paring was OTT – roasted summer squash with pan fried gnocchi – sublime.
Passionate Piedmont Rivetto Kaskal
In the world of passionate wine lovers and enthusiasts alike, Piedmont holds a special place in many’s heart and soul. It’s a love affair that once tasted, it lasts a lifetime. For Enrico Rivetto, wine is not only a way of life, it’s how he communicates his passion, how he creates his magic, how he casts us under his spell and into his world one sip at a time. Energetic, committed, magician, enter his mind and thought process. It takes a very patient person to obtain these kinds of results from the land = the utmost respect. This is his Eden, his paradise. Founded in 1902, the fourth generation Rivetto family take lovingly and environmentally conscious care for the 23 hectares of land. The 16 hectares of vineyards are located in Serralunga d’Alba, Cuneo which is in the middle of Langhe Alta and Barolo, on the hills of Lirono. At 400 meters the Nebbiolo, Barbera and Nascetta vines are sprinkled throughout with fruit trees, herbs, insects and birds which all coexist in his sanctuary and thrive in it’s own ecosystem. The soils are rich clay and marl, which are cared for following biodynamic and sustainable practices. Enrico is a farmer, a passionate, natural winemaker and an environmentally committed man with the utmost respect for nature, to which so, he was the first Certified Demeter Biodynamic winery in Barolo and Barbaresco. All hand harvested with little human interaction, the use of indigenous yeasts in either stainless or terracotta. Rivetto Kaskal Metodo Classico Vino Spumante di Qualità Dossagio Zero NV Serralunga d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 100% Nebbiolo 13.5% abv Rivetto Kaskal Metodo Classico is 100% Nebbiolo. Yes, I said Nebbiolo. Unique don’t you think? It doesn’t end there…. Only the tips of the bunches are hand harvested a month early for this sparkling wine, while the remainder are left to hang on the vines to ripen to perfection. Kaskal translates to “the road to the king” referencing the noble Nebbiolo, in ancient Sumeric. Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero “Kaskal” is made in the traditional method (Metodo Classico) mainly from the 2014 vine with reserve solara wine from 2010 (5-7%). It is aged on the lees for 60 months with zero dosage. Both contribute such an intensity and structure to the wine. Malolactic fermentation does not occur – hint fresh and zippy acidity. Pours into the glass an extraordinary golden/bronze yellow color with a fine and persistent perlage. Swirl and intense ample aromas of bread crust, honey, citrus zest, green fruit, light spec of tobacco Sip and you have been transported to the rows of Nebbiolo in Lirono. Take your time to savor the moment, the experience. The aromas are joined by an abundance of figs, honey, apricot kernel, anise, tart cherry, burnt caramel, savory minerals and blood orange zest which carry over into a fresh texture and vibrant acidity. It is a rich, focused and gorgeously balanced sparkling. It is such a fascinating sparkling wine. This wine takes you somewhere special that I guarantee you have never been before. So go on, spoil yourself, just a little and try something completely different. After all, you deserve it. Cheers.
La Raia Pise
We all know Nebbiolo reigns king in Piedmont. Did you know that they queen white is Cortese? Cortese ripens well in Gavi and considered a star white grape of Piedmont region. The warm summers, cool winters, altitude and sea breezes all preserve the freshness and acidity in the wines. La Raia was founded in 2003 by Giorgio Rossi Cairo who wanted to preserve and protect the Gavi hills – its natural beauty and landscape. La Raia is all about balance, harmony and protection of natural resources. The Gavi “Pisé” has been defined by the Piedmontese winery itself as “the best representation of the winery’s philosophy”. The La Cascinetta vineyard’s is the oldest of La Raia. The 70 year+ old vines are planted in sandy and loose soils at an altitude of 400 meters and are farmed in line with organic and biodynamic principles (Demeter certified farm). Hand harvested with the utmost care, minimal if no human intervention, temperature controlled fermentation for 20-25 days followed by 20 months of lees ageing in stainless steel tanks. La Raia Pisé 2017 100% Cortese Gavi DOCG, Italy 3500 bottles produced Pours into the glass a pale lemon color. Swirl and you are greeted with pleasant green tree fruit, almonds, floral, honey and minerals. Sip and the rich flavors of freshly cut pineapple and melon, pear and apple, jasmine, honey, saline, lemon, lime, grass and finishes on a yeasty biscuit and almond note. The rich, warm texture, lively fresh acidity, alcohol of 13.5% abv are balanced with the flavors and persistent finish. It’s a crisp, sleek and pleasant wine Pair with yellow squash risotto, roasted basil and pepper shrimp kebabs, pesto pasta