Champagne Fleury – A Symphony of Purity and Power
Champagne Fleury is a family-owned Champagne house located in the Côte des Bar region of southern Champagne. Founded in 1895, the house is known for its biodynamically produced Champagnes, which are made using natural methods that respect the environment and the terroir. The Fleury family has been at the forefront of the biodynamic movement in Champagne. In 1989, Jean-Pierre Fleury became the first Champagne producer to convert his entire vineyard to biodynamics. Today, the house is certified biodynamic by Demeter, an international organization that sets standards for biodynamic agriculture. Fleury’s Champagnes are made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. The wines are known for their elegance, purity, and minerality. Champagne Fleury Sonate Extra Brut 2012: A Symphony of Purity and Power In the glass it shimmers with a pale gold brilliance, a touch deeper than most “brut nature” Champagnes. The mousse is fine and persistent, forming delicate, ephemeral chains of bubbles that rise gracefully to the surface.On the nose, an initial burst of vibrant green apple and pear mingles with notes of white peach and candied orange peel. As the wine opens up, deeper aromas emerge: buttery brioche, toasted hazelnuts, and a hint of honeyed beeswax. Subtle floral notes of honeysuckle and acacia blossom add a touch of elegance. Notably, there’s an intriguing earthiness, a whisper of damp mossy woods, that adds complexity and intrigue. The palate is where the Sonate truly sings. The initial attack is vibrant and energetic, with a racy acidity that cleanses and excites the taste buds. The dominant red fruit character of Pinot Noir takes center stage, offering flavors of ripe raspberries and wild strawberries intermingled with tart cherries and juicy red plums. Chardonnay’s minerality underpins the fruit, providing a backbone of chalky, wet stones and a long, saline finish. Beyond the fruit and acid, a fascinating textural complexity unfolds. The natural ferments and oak cask aging contribute subtle tannins that lend a slight chewiness, contrasting with the creamy mousse. There’s a hint of brioche, a whisper of honey, and a lingering nuttiness that lingers on the long, satisfying finish. Throughout the experience, the Sonate’s “zero dosage” nature shines through. The absence of added sugar allows the pure terroir and meticulous winemaking to take center stage. This is a Champagne of remarkable honesty and transparency, reflecting the unique character of Fleury’s Grand Cru vineyards. Overall, the 2012 Champagne Fleury Sonate Extra Brut is a stunning expression of terroir and craftsmanship. It’s a wine for those seeking a serious, complex Champagne, where every sip is a journey of discovery. This is a symphony of purity and power, a testament to the Fleury family’s dedication to biodynamic viticulture and natural winemaking.
Champagne Christian Lassaigne-Berlot Gem
Christian Lassaigne founded their house in 1964 in the village of Montgueux when he acquired a few plots of land in the village. He was a self taught vigneron passionate about sustainable viticulture. He was one of the pioneers of “enherbement”, the practice of leaving the soil between the rows of vines uncultivated. This helps to preserve the soil and prevent erosion. Today, the house is run by Christian’s son, Jean-Charles Lassaigne. Jean-Charles is committed to continuing his father’s legacy of sustainable viticulture of their 5.5 chalky hectares, both organically and biodynamically. Champagne Christian Lassaigne-Berlot Sélection Brut Pours into the glass a pale gold with subtle, shimmering silver reflections. The bubbles rise in a steady stream, fine and persistent, forming a delicate crown that lingers gracefully on the surface. A vibrant wave of fresh fruit takes center stage, dominated by crisp aromas of apple, pear, and white peach. An underlying floral note unfolds, reminiscent of honeysuckle and acacia, adding a touch of elegance. As the wine opens, subtle hints of brioche and almond emerge, hinting at the extended lees aging, while a whisper of citrus zest adds a refreshing lift. The attack is soft and creamy with the acidity strikes a perfect balance, providing freshness without harshness. The fruit flavors from the nose come alive, bursting with juicy pears and golden apples. A touch of honeyed sweetness mingles with brioche notes, creating a rich and layered character. The minerality creeps in gently, adding a subtle chalky texture and depth. The finish is long and elegant, leaving a lingering impression of fresh citrus and floral notes. The creamy texture fades gracefully, leaving the palate clean and refreshed. Just a beautifully balanced and harmonious champagne that appeals to all the senses.
A Unique Blend from Jeff Carrell
Domaine D’Ansignan is the only winery in town. Located in Fenouillèdes, in the Agly Vallee, Antiguan commune of the Mediterranean Cotes Catalanes. Jeff Carrel, have long been cultivated in Southern France and represent the “forefathers” of the Languedoc Appellation’s red wines. An incredibly unique blend of red and white grapes creating fresh and floral wine of 42% Grenache, 31% Syrah, 16% Carignan, 8% Lledoner Pellut and 3% Maccabeau grown on rocky granite soils at 600 meters. Vines have been trained in the traditional goblet style for the region, organic farming and hand harvesting. Pours into the glass a light ruby or cherry red, with a youthful vibrancy. The wine may even have a slightly rosé-like hue at the rim. Aromas of fresh and juicy red fruit jump out of the glass immediately – redcurrant, pomegranate, strawberry, and hint of raspberry, followed by violets adding a floral elegance and a whisp of black pepper. The first sip is bright and fresh, the crisp acidity keeps the palate balanced. A medium bodied with a with a lively and energetic mouthfeel. The tannins are soft and fine adding just enough weight without feeling out of balance. The flavors follow the nose, with red fruits, pomegranate, and violets dominating. There’s a hint of earthiness and minerality from the granite soils, and a touch of spice from the Syrah component. The finish is clean and refreshing, with lingering notes of fruit and pepper which adds intrigue to the wine. Paired with a warm summers night and a good ol’grilled sirloin steak. Bon Appetit.
Schneider & Bieler Le Breton Cabernet Franc
Schneider’s long-time passion for cabernet franc and Bieler’s for rose, Schneider & Bieler is dedicated exclusively to two shades of cabernet franc grown on the best vineyard sites on the East side of Seneca Lake and the West side of Cayuga Lake. Schneider & Bieler Le Breton Cabernet Franc 2020 Finger Lakes, New York Bright and fruity ready red to be enjoyed. This is an excellent slightly chilled red that leans towards a lighter style, shy of a Gamay. This Cabernet Franc has such silky tannins intertwined with the lovely acid. Overflowing with tart raspberry, sour cherry and , dark chocolate and raspberry leaf with a savory thyme finish. Moorish in your mouth and in the glass. Paired with spiced rubbed and grilled tuna steaks
Picpoul Pool Pleasure
ᴘɪᴄᴘᴏᴜʟ+ᴘɪꜱᴄɪɴᴇ= ᴘʟᴀɪꜱɪʀ ℙ𝕚𝕔𝕡𝕠𝕦𝕝+ℙ𝕠𝕠𝕝=ℙ𝕝𝕖𝕒𝕤𝕦𝕣𝕖 The double 3P trifecta 👍 37C/98F heatwave begs for zingy white wine. What could be more zingy than a Picpoul? Saint-Peyre Picpoul, Picpoul de Pinet 2022 Picpoul (aka lip smacked/stinger/tingler hence the name) is the grape, Picpoul de Pinet is the AOC located in Languedoc, France. It is the only appellation in the region dedicated solely to dry white wine production. Pale lemon green in the glass. An aromatic plethora of citrus and stone fruit, telltale saline, iodine minerality. First sip the smack acid attack (in a very good way), followed by bright lime zest, lemon juice, lime blossom, fresh peaches, grass, saline heaven and thyme high five finish. Crisp & refreshing – expectations met 👍 Get your salty seafood platter – cod croquettes, freshly shucked oysters or lobster roll
Green with Dutcher Crossing Sauvignon Blanc
𝐅𝐞𝐞𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐠𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐠𝐫𝐞𝐞𝐧…Sauvignon Blanc from Dutcher Crossing 2022, Sonoma County Artisanal winemaking, woman owned, sustainable and oh so glorious. A unique technique for this years vintage. They aged part of the wine in new oak Ovonum which keeps the fine lees continuous motion, adding a richer texture to the wine. Pours into the glass a crystalline green yellow color in the glass. The immediate pungent aromas are a variety of natures green hues – lime, melon, lemongrass, bell pepper, fresh cut grass, gooseberry to ripe peach, pink grapefruit, passion fruit, jasmine and flint. The art of this wine is obvious with your first sip. The vibrant flavors of fresh squeezed lemons and limes, pink grapefruit, lime zest, bell pepper, honeydew melon, lychee, jalapeño, a touch of asparagus and smoke. It’s a refreshing medium bodied white with a well balanced 14% abv. A textured mouthfeel and mouthwatering finish that seems to linger endlessly on the pallet. Pair with crispy kale chips, avocado olive quesadillas or sweet potato fries with cilantro aioli.
Isabelle Suire Saumur Blanc
100% Chenin Blanc 100% Summer saline sensation Isabelle Suire, Saumur Blanc 2021 A hundred year old family winery and President of Saumur White Wine Association, Isabelle Suire took over the reigns of the business in 2007. Her first order of business was to convert to sustainable organic farming and winemaking practices. Mineral driven wines that showcases the terroir. Linear in its direction, vibrant in its acidity, a firecracker of a Chenin in every sense. It embodies all that is shining bright about Chenin – crispy citrus, tart apple, melon, ripe peach, crushed gravel and saline mineral packed punch. Bright in every sense of the word.
Bodegas San Román Tinto Toro
𝕀 𝕒𝕞 𝕒 𝕥𝕙𝕚𝕟𝕘 𝕠𝕗 𝕓𝕖𝕒𝕦𝕥𝕪 – 𝔽𝕣𝕒𝕟𝕜 𝕊𝕚𝕟𝕒𝕥𝕣𝕒 Bodegas San Román Tinto Toro 2017 Bodegas y Vinedos San Roman is a family-owned winery that was founded by iconic winemaker (of Vega Sicilia) Mariano Garcia in 1998 as Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos. His vision was to produce world class wines which balanced freshness and longevity in the bottle against the renown power of the region’s wines which is now run by his two sons, Alberto and Eduardo Garcia. Organic viticulture, incorporating some Biodynamic principles and practices, these 100% Tinto de Toro (aka Tempranillo) 60 year old bush trained vines on steep hillside slopes at 700-800 meters altitude in mostly gravel with a mix of clay and sand soils. Aged for 24 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels with 25% of the oak being new. You feel the punch and finesse in tandem. Deep ruby velvet in the glass. Superbe pronounced aromas of blackberry, black cherry, black plum, cassis, vanilla, sandalwood, spice cake, tobacco, toasty oak and rich earthiness. Wrap yourself in the plush tannins and rich blue fruit notes accompanied by chocolate covered cherries, cigar box, mocha, prunes, licorice, cedar, into a sweet lingering finish of mint, dill and mocha. Silky meets polished in every sense. This one could easily age another decade. It has so much youth and pep in its step. This Toro-tastic wine calls for charcoal smoked baby-back ribs 😋 divine!
Bubbly Badasses of Champagne
There’s a long history of ladies leading the revolutionary charge in Champagne. They paved the way for today’s chef de caves and champagne house leaders. Some were visionary, some were innovators, some were marketers and born leaders, but what they all had in common says Cynthia Coutu is “They were all bubbly badasses.” According to the Union Des Maisons de Champagne, today, a very small percentage of Champagne cellar masters are women, a paltry 17%, 40% of the estates of champagne growers are owned by women, 28% in high powered management roles in Champagne houses, while 70% of wine purchases in France are made by women. In the United States, women account for 86% of wine purchases in a $56.65-billion wine industry. Although the financial impact of women’s purchasing power for the wine industry is significant their role does not correlate with the social, cultural, and economic status of women that work in it. Nevertheless, there has been significant progress towards a bright and sparkling future with two prominent groups of women in Champagne leading the charge, breaking down barriers and contributing to shaping the champagne industry: Les Fa’Bulleuses and La Transmission. Les Fa’Bulleuses Lifting each other up as women in wine in Champagne, Les Fa’Bulleuses is a unique group of seven women from different backgrounds, with different experiences and stories, who share a passion for Champagne and a deep-rooted champagne history that runs through their veins. This shared heritage has bought them together not just to support each other but uniquely to make a collective wine. The members are: Delphine Brulez, Champagne Louis Brison, Hélène Beaugrand, Champagne Beaugrand, Charlotte de Sousa, Champagne De Sousa , Claire Blin, Champagne Maxim Blin , Laureen Baillette, Champagne Baillette-Prudhomme, Sophie Moussié, Champagne Guy Méa, and Mathilde Bonnevie, Champagne Bonnevie Bocart. I had the immense pleasure of meeting this dynamic group at Printemps des Champagnes this past spring of 2023 with fellow Canadian and empowering woman-in-wine, Cynthia Coutu, a Champagne educator, judge and guide. The fellowship, the camaraderie, and the warm smiles of the group expressed their passion for wine and excitement of the first cuvée they have made together – a blend of all of their wines the cuvée is called ISOS, bottled October 15, 2022 and is due to be released in 2025. To find out more about ISOS, https://fabulleusesdechampagne.com/actualites/isos La Transmission La Transmission is bursting the traditional male-dominated industry’s bubble, too. This time not in terms of making a wine but in support. La Transmission is a group of nine women of different ages and roles united to support each other. The members come from houses of all shapes and sizes and sub-regions and are: Evelyne Boizel, Champagne Boizel, Delphine Cazals, Champagne Claude Cazals, Charline Drappier, Champagne Drappier, Chantal Gonet, Champagne Philippe Gone, Margareth Henriquez, former ly Champagne Krug , Anne Malassagne, formerly Champagne AR Lenoble, Alice Paillard, Champagne Bruno Paillard, Mélanie Tarlant, Champagne Tarlant, Vitalie Taittinger, Champagne Taittinger .Newcomers Nathalie Doucet, Champagne Besserat De Bellefon and Angéline Templier, Champagne J. Lassalle joined La Transmission this past June. The women in La Transmission transmit their knowledge and empower future generations of winemakers through regular meetings, conferences and press. Positive change is being brought about by these groups of women within their own spheres of influence but the individuals, the cellar masters and winemakers are also making headway for today’s women in wine. So why is it important to create more visibility for women in Champagne and encourage more of them to pursue a career in this male dominated category? Sophie Signolle believes that their superior tasting abilities are fundamental: “Women are more aware of the delicate flavours of champagne,” says Sophie Signolle, president of the Commission of Women Winemakers of Champagne. “Their nose and palate have more finesse, more subtlety.” But there are those that take a more pragmatic approach and see talent as the only barometer of value. In 2020, Julie Caville became the first female cellar master at Krug, she had worked with Eric Lebel there since 2006 and was greatly influenced by La Transmission’s Maggie Henriquez, Krug’s inimitable President and CEO. ’ ‘It’s not about women versus men,” she says. “I think each person’s background, education, life experience, and intrinsic personality transcend gender. Of course, I am happy to see more female talent being recognized, but the important thing to remember is that they are first and foremost talented.” Others are keen to point out that visibility is the key. Alice Tétienne of Champagne Henriot observes: ‘We as women are humble. But we’ve always had women in the Champagne industry. It is not that we don’t have women in the industry, it is just that we don’t talk enough about them. But they are here.” The evidence, certainly for Cellar Masters, doesn’t exactly echo her feeling: of 370 Champagne houses only 17 have female Chef de Caves. However, her observation may soon be borne witness to if the number of women studying viticulture in the region is anything to go by: 60% of students are currently women. As for winemakers, today’s generation of women making wine in Champagne is strongly committed to sustainable, organic and environmentally conscious winemaking. The rise of women winemakers has already changed champagne and will certainly continue to do so as the next generation passes down traditions and explores new ways to innovate. For hundreds of years, women have added their passion and art to the world of champagne. To quote Floriane Eznack, “there is love between women and champagne.” The women of the past have paved the way for the current generation of winemakers and cellar masters to take a greater role, as well as placing women into positions of power as CEOs and owners of champagne houses. The role of women in Champagne like champagne bubbles is strong, persistent, and filled with positive energy. It is being redefined through generations, through teamwork, fellowship, and banding together, and will continue to thrive as female influence grows and flourishes. Published on Rewriting The Wine News on September 7, 2023
Jim Barry Single Vineyard The Farm Cabernet Malbec
Collecting passport stamps in my wine diary journey. When I travel, I adore exploring wine shops to see what’s available, I call it Wine-dow Shopping 😂 It’s always a new and different experience. A significant difference when visiting Ontario is that they have a bigger selection of New World wines compared Quebec (where I grew up) which is more old world centric. That being said I always take advantage what the shop has to offer. Jim Barry Single Vineyard The Farm Cabernet Malbec 2018 Jim Barry is a benchmark producer that shaped South Australia’s Clare Valley region for producing premier Riesling. From vines planted 1997 for the Cabernet Sauvignon and 1998 for Malbec as a homage to the late Jim Barry Eastern Ranges of the Clare Valley. Rich crimson with a Malbec calling card purple rim. Fragrant violets, lavish black fruits, earthy tobacco and subtle cocoa & French oak tickles the senses. Flavors of forest floor, vanilla, cocoa, leather greet the senses, blackberry, mulberry, black cherry are evident mid palate with a soft tobacco eucalyptus anise finish. Silky tannins with a bright acidity and well integrated 13.9% abv. It’s such a beautifully balanced and structured lush wine. Perfection to perfection with a long overdue visit with my BFF in her blissful backyard.