Bubbly Badasses of Champagne
There’s a long history of ladies leading the revolutionary charge in Champagne. They paved the way for today’s chef de caves and champagne house leaders. Some were visionary, some were innovators, some were marketers and born leaders, but what they all had in common says Cynthia Coutu is “They were all bubbly badasses.” According to the Union Des Maisons de Champagne, today, a very small percentage of Champagne cellar masters are women, a paltry 17%, 40% of the estates of champagne growers are owned by women, 28% in high powered management roles in Champagne houses, while 70% of wine purchases in France are made by women. In the United States, women account for 86% of wine purchases in a $56.65-billion wine industry. Although the financial impact of women’s purchasing power for the wine industry is significant their role does not correlate with the social, cultural, and economic status of women that work in it. Nevertheless, there has been significant progress towards a bright and sparkling future with two prominent groups of women in Champagne leading the charge, breaking down barriers and contributing to shaping the champagne industry: Les Fa’Bulleuses and La Transmission. Les Fa’Bulleuses Lifting each other up as women in wine in Champagne, Les Fa’Bulleuses is a unique group of seven women from different backgrounds, with different experiences and stories, who share a passion for Champagne and a deep-rooted champagne history that runs through their veins. This shared heritage has bought them together not just to support each other but uniquely to make a collective wine. The members are: Delphine Brulez, Champagne Louis Brison, Hélène Beaugrand, Champagne Beaugrand, Charlotte de Sousa, Champagne De Sousa , Claire Blin, Champagne Maxim Blin , Laureen Baillette, Champagne Baillette-Prudhomme, Sophie Moussié, Champagne Guy Méa, and Mathilde Bonnevie, Champagne Bonnevie Bocart. I had the immense pleasure of meeting this dynamic group at Printemps des Champagnes this past spring of 2023 with fellow Canadian and empowering woman-in-wine, Cynthia Coutu, a Champagne educator, judge and guide. The fellowship, the camaraderie, and the warm smiles of the group expressed their passion for wine and excitement of the first cuvée they have made together – a blend of all of their wines the cuvée is called ISOS, bottled October 15, 2022 and is due to be released in 2025. To find out more about ISOS, https://fabulleusesdechampagne.com/actualites/isos La Transmission La Transmission is bursting the traditional male-dominated industry’s bubble, too. This time not in terms of making a wine but in support. La Transmission is a group of nine women of different ages and roles united to support each other. The members come from houses of all shapes and sizes and sub-regions and are: Evelyne Boizel, Champagne Boizel, Delphine Cazals, Champagne Claude Cazals, Charline Drappier, Champagne Drappier, Chantal Gonet, Champagne Philippe Gone, Margareth Henriquez, former ly Champagne Krug , Anne Malassagne, formerly Champagne AR Lenoble, Alice Paillard, Champagne Bruno Paillard, Mélanie Tarlant, Champagne Tarlant, Vitalie Taittinger, Champagne Taittinger .Newcomers Nathalie Doucet, Champagne Besserat De Bellefon and Angéline Templier, Champagne J. Lassalle joined La Transmission this past June. The women in La Transmission transmit their knowledge and empower future generations of winemakers through regular meetings, conferences and press. Positive change is being brought about by these groups of women within their own spheres of influence but the individuals, the cellar masters and winemakers are also making headway for today’s women in wine. So why is it important to create more visibility for women in Champagne and encourage more of them to pursue a career in this male dominated category? Sophie Signolle believes that their superior tasting abilities are fundamental: “Women are more aware of the delicate flavours of champagne,” says Sophie Signolle, president of the Commission of Women Winemakers of Champagne. “Their nose and palate have more finesse, more subtlety.” But there are those that take a more pragmatic approach and see talent as the only barometer of value. In 2020, Julie Caville became the first female cellar master at Krug, she had worked with Eric Lebel there since 2006 and was greatly influenced by La Transmission’s Maggie Henriquez, Krug’s inimitable President and CEO. ’ ‘It’s not about women versus men,” she says. “I think each person’s background, education, life experience, and intrinsic personality transcend gender. Of course, I am happy to see more female talent being recognized, but the important thing to remember is that they are first and foremost talented.” Others are keen to point out that visibility is the key. Alice Tétienne of Champagne Henriot observes: ‘We as women are humble. But we’ve always had women in the Champagne industry. It is not that we don’t have women in the industry, it is just that we don’t talk enough about them. But they are here.” The evidence, certainly for Cellar Masters, doesn’t exactly echo her feeling: of 370 Champagne houses only 17 have female Chef de Caves. However, her observation may soon be borne witness to if the number of women studying viticulture in the region is anything to go by: 60% of students are currently women. As for winemakers, today’s generation of women making wine in Champagne is strongly committed to sustainable, organic and environmentally conscious winemaking. The rise of women winemakers has already changed champagne and will certainly continue to do so as the next generation passes down traditions and explores new ways to innovate. For hundreds of years, women have added their passion and art to the world of champagne. To quote Floriane Eznack, “there is love between women and champagne.” The women of the past have paved the way for the current generation of winemakers and cellar masters to take a greater role, as well as placing women into positions of power as CEOs and owners of champagne houses. The role of women in Champagne like champagne bubbles is strong, persistent, and filled with positive energy. It is being redefined through generations, through teamwork, fellowship, and banding together, and will continue to thrive as female influence grows and flourishes. Published on Rewriting The Wine News on September 7, 2023
Jim Barry Single Vineyard The Farm Cabernet Malbec
Collecting passport stamps in my wine diary journey. When I travel, I adore exploring wine shops to see what’s available, I call it Wine-dow Shopping 😂 It’s always a new and different experience. A significant difference when visiting Ontario is that they have a bigger selection of New World wines compared Quebec (where I grew up) which is more old world centric. That being said I always take advantage what the shop has to offer. Jim Barry Single Vineyard The Farm Cabernet Malbec 2018 Jim Barry is a benchmark producer that shaped South Australia’s Clare Valley region for producing premier Riesling. From vines planted 1997 for the Cabernet Sauvignon and 1998 for Malbec as a homage to the late Jim Barry Eastern Ranges of the Clare Valley. Rich crimson with a Malbec calling card purple rim. Fragrant violets, lavish black fruits, earthy tobacco and subtle cocoa & French oak tickles the senses. Flavors of forest floor, vanilla, cocoa, leather greet the senses, blackberry, mulberry, black cherry are evident mid palate with a soft tobacco eucalyptus anise finish. Silky tannins with a bright acidity and well integrated 13.9% abv. It’s such a beautifully balanced and structured lush wine. Perfection to perfection with a long overdue visit with my BFF in her blissful backyard.
Jeff Carrel Mousse-Tâche Extra Brut & Rosé
Mousse-Tache Me with a splash of a sparkling that you need poolside … why you ask? Jeff Carrels Mousse-Tache sparklings are both made in the tank method, meaning aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks. During bottling, carbonic gas is introduced into the bottle via an extremely fine membrane, until it has same pressure as in traditional methods. Sealed with a beer cap in the traditional way and meant to be enjoyed yesterday. I was fortunate enough to taste both the Rosé and Extra Brut version side by side Jeff Carrel Mousse-Tâche Rosé Extra Brut Made from 100% Malbec, this rosé sparkling pours into the glass a tickle tangerine salmon with tiniest effervescence. Playful aromas of candied red fruit, blueberry, blood orange, vanilla, tobacco leaf, baking spice and violets. A tense yet lively palate with raspberry, strawberry, mocha, black pepper and violets. The finish is zingy on orange peel with a tart bite of cranberry finish. Jeff Carrel Mousse-Tâche Extra Brut Pours into the glass the softest of yellow with fine tiny bubbles. Made from 100% Chenin Blanc this cheerful wine has delightful nose of white flowers, apple skin, pear, quince, honey and a touch of chalk. The finessed palate bring some flavors of acacia, honeysuckle, chamomile, honeyed apple, pear and orange peel are delicately present on the nose. The finish lets you know you are enjoying a Chenin that lingers on the vervy acidity. Both of these lightly sparkling darlings are thirst-quenching. I served both poolside and pleased all, even the fussiest of fizz drinkers. These wines are all about fun, from the label (front and back) to what sparkles inside.
M Rosé
Summer Breezes, waterfalls, water lilies and M rosé Supercharged team sommelier turned Vintner Meghan Vergara and rosé expert winemaker, Vincent Traverso created their third edition of M. A female led brand, women led team at Bacigalupi Vineyards in Russian River Valley, Sonoma as well as produced at the women led RD Winery. This 100% Pinot Noir is made in small quantities, 195 cases (2,340 bottles to be exact) Gorgeously glimmering coral color shining brightly in the glass. Flirty aromas of stone fruit, red berries, fresh cut grass, rhubarb, summer ripe watermelon, bay leaf, vanilla bean, jasmine and minerals. An energetic bright acidity on the palate dances with notes of strawberry, raspberry, red currant and cherry candy, white peach, Meyer lemon, blood orange zest, pate sablé into a vanilla bean tangerine creamsicle finish. It has bounce in its step and a very distinct body. A lush, dry rosé that has depth of character and a sexy swagger that has you coming back for more. This is the kind of rosé you want at your summer picnic alongside grilled chicken tacos, corn bisque with yogurt and saffron or mushroom herb Frittata. Check out my interview with the uber talented Meghan Vergara
Lulu Vigneron BB1
A salty damsel of a #jura white will dance into your hearts from the first sip. Lulu Vigneron BB1, Cotes du Jura Chardonnay/Savagnin 2019 Ludwig Bindernagel & Nathalie Eigenschenck are not from generations of winemaking families, they aren’t œnologists or formally trained viticulturist, they had no experience before they founded their winery in 2003. Their passions guided their journey and so did their education to purchase of Les Chais du Vieux Bourg (now Lulu Vigneron) in 2000. Their first vintage came shortly after in 2002. Their wines are natural, organic and biodynamic, their moto is that wines are made in the vineyard ie noninterventional. Their 2.5 hectares are spread in Arlay, Poligny, Etoile and the infamous Château-Chalon with marly calcareous soils rich in fossilized oysters. BB1 is Ludwig Bindernagel’s first cuvée; aka the baby one, is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Savagnin made in a traditional style ouillé (topped up, non-oxidative). Their wines are of small yields, this one around 1,500 bottles. Deep glimmering golden color in the glass. Aromas of sun warmed peach, intense citrus, pineapple, lemon zest, green apple, toast, slight smoke, wet hay, honey, lanolin are intermingled. The zingy palate has an unmistakable presence. It begins with crips apple, evolves into a grassy floral character into dried mango, white pepper, walnut skin slathered on freshly baked bread and toffee with a slight tannic grip. The finish is lingeringly long as is the Uber bright acid. Its depth has such a pleasant character that neither variety steals the show, they both work in harmony.
Desparada Fortunata Falanghina
𝔸 𝕤𝕞𝕚𝕝𝕖 𝕒𝕟𝕕 𝕒 𝕡𝕠𝕤𝕚𝕥𝕚𝕧𝕖 𝕒𝕥𝕥𝕚𝕥𝕦𝕕𝕖 𝕒𝕣𝕖 𝕥𝕙𝕖 𝕓𝕖𝕤𝕥 𝕜𝕚𝕟𝕕 𝕠𝕗 𝕝𝕦𝕔𝕜. Desparada Fortunata Falanghina 2022 Whale Rock Vineyard, Paso Robles, CA Vailia From of @desparadawine #allwomenwinery is champion of Italian and Bordeaux varietals and wines with spirit and artistry, Fortunata #falanghina was born at Whale Rock Vineyard, #pasorobles her focus is on quality, expression and beauty of the varietal. 98 cases made = 1,176 bottles This wine is all about brightness, from the color to aromas and taste sensations. Luminous citrus, freshly picked summer peaches, key lime pie, herbaceous basil, orange blossom, minerals on the nose. Vibrant entry on the palate in terms of bright acidity and flavors of Granny Smith apple, lime zest, grapefruit, raw almonds, honey, peach on a saline finish. It’s a lighter bodied moorish, delicious wine. Tippy toe fairy dust at 11.7% this thirst quenching darling ticks all of the summer white o boxes. Fried clams, crab cakes or scallop roll (yes friends, imagine a lobster roll but better 😂)
An Excellent QPR Rosato from Ercole
ERCOLE 2022 ROSATO, PIEDMONT, ITALY Ercole is a cooperative who makes everyday wines upholding our commitment to honoring the work of the unsung heroes of Italy—the grape growers themselves. Ercole, meaning Hercules in English, is only made possible by a generations-old cooperative of local growers in the Monferrato area, focusing on everyday wines while upholding commitment to the environment. A blend of Barbera and Dolcetto, A Rose’ of Barbera and Dolcetto from Piedmont. This is a vibrant “rosato” with subtle aromas of red apple, strawberries, and herbs. On the palate, it remains lean, clean, and fruit-forward, making it the perfect aperitif or alongside a wide range of cuisine. Pours into the glass a vibrant salmon hue. First impressions on the nose are undeniably fresh and inviting. A burst of red summer fruits greets you – ripe strawberries, raspberries, and plump cherries, kissed by the sun. Delicate floral notes weave through, reminiscent of wild roses and honeysuckle. Beneath the fruit and flowers, a whisper of earthiness emerges – crushed limestone, hints of thyme and oregano, adding complexity and intrigue. The initial sip confirms the vibrancy promised by the nose. Juicy fruit flavors dance on the tongue, led by crisp cherry and strawberry, followed by touches of watermelon and citrus. The acidity is lively, zesty, and refreshing, making you pucker just a touch but quickly inviting another sip. The mid-palate reveals surprising depth for a rosé, with mineral notes of wet stone and a whisper of almond skin that lingers. The finish is dry and clean, leaving behind a soft echo of red fruit and a lingering kiss of salinity. This rosé leans towards the lighter side of medium-bodied, but it’s not flimsy. The mouthfeel is soft and elegant, with a subtle creaminess that balances the bright acidity. It glides across the palate effortlessly, leaving a feeling of refreshment and invigoration. A true value in the 1 -liter size bottle.
Quails Gate Chardonnay
Quails Gate Chardonnay 2020: A Cool Climate Melody in Every Sip In the glass, the 2020 Quails Gate Chardonnay shimmers with a pale lemon hue, hinting at its crisp origins in the Okanagan Valley’s cool climate. Sunlight catches subtle glints of gold, whispering promises of ripe fruit and complexity. The first inhale is an elegant waltz of aromas. Ripe orchard fruits like golden apple and juicy pear lead the way, hand-in-hand with notes of honeysuckle and a whisper of citrus blossom. A touch of toasty brioche emerges from the background, hinting at subtle oak aging, while a whisper of mineral salinity adds intrigue. On the tongue, the wine explodes into a vibrant symphony. The initial burst of fresh fruit – think nectarine and white peach – dances with zesty grapefruit and a whisper of lime. The mid-palate reveals a creamy texture, courtesy of lees aging, that melts around flavors of butterscotch and toasted almonds. Subtle oak notes of vanilla and clove add depth, but remain perfectly integrated, never overshadowing the fruit’s star turn. The finish is long and lingering, leaving a memory of honeyed grapefruit and a whisper of minerality that dances on the tongue. A clean, refreshing acidity leaves you wanting another sip, eager to explore the nuanced layers of this captivating Chardonnay. This versatile Chardonnay will shine alongside a variety of dishes. Its bright acidity pairs beautifully with seafood, from grilled scallops to creamy crab cakes. Its fruitiness complements roast chicken or creamy pasta dishes, while the subtle oak notes stand up to richer fare like pork or duck.
Villa Des Anges Old Vine Cinsault Rosé
Villa Des Anges Old Vine Cinsault Rosé 2022 – Jeff Carrell The 2022 Villa Des Anges Old Vine Cinsault Rosé is a captivating expression of its sun-drenched Languedoc origin,singing a melody of fresh fruit, vibrant acidity, and subtle minerality. A delicate ballet slipper pink, hinting at both the playful blush of summer berries and the elegance of a summer sunset. Aromas are high on notes of juicy strawberries and raspberries, followed by cantaloupe, watermelon, and a touch of honeysuckle. Delicate floral nuances like rose petal and peony add a touch of romance. As the wine breathes, hints of wet stone and a whisper of thyme emerge, hinting at the vineyard’s mineral-rich soils. The initial impression is one of pure refreshment, with a burst of vibrant acidity that awakens the senses.The fruit flavors mirror the nose, but gain depth and dimension on the tongue. The strawberries take on a wild character, the raspberries morph into juicy red currants, and the melon emerges with a honeydew sweetness. There’s a hint of citrus, like grapefruit or pink grapefruit, adding a touch of complexity. The mid-palate is where the Cinsault grape truly shines. Its signature minerality emerges, a whisper of salinity and crushed limestone that grounds the fruitiness and adds a refreshing edge. The texture is light and lively,dancing on the tongue without ever feeling thin or watery. The fiish is crisp and dry, leaving a lingering echo of fresh strawberries and citrus on the palate. The minerality lingers just a touch longer, reminding you of the sun-warmed stones of the Languedoc vineyards. It will keep you cool beneath your straw hat (hopefully you are having hot and sunny summer weather where you are). Paired with watermelon basil feta bites, grilled turkey burgers and a summer spinach strawberry salad.
M – Meghan Vergara – Be Bold
“Do the one thing you think you cannot do. Fail at it. Try again. Do better the second time. The only people who never tumble are those who never mount the high wire. This is your moment. Own it.” – Oprah Winfrey Recently, I had the wonderful opportunity to interview Meghan Vergara about her wine journey from sommelier to winemaker and everything in between. A self-made, hardworking woman, Meghan dictated her destiny the only way she knew how – by taking chances and surrounding herself with a strong community. Meghan has always been self-sufficient. She supported herself through college, where she majored in marketing. She worked in various restaurants, where she learned the ins and outs of food and wine pairing. She advanced quickly in levels of responsibility and her reputation grew. Her passion was fueled by customer reactions to the wines, the meal itself, and the takeaway experience. Her big “AH-HA” moment came late one night when the restaurant’s very talented French chef sat her down and explained the intricacies of food and wine pairing in detail. I asked her if she remembered the bottle he chose. It was an Elyse Winery Rutherford AVA Cabernet Sauvignon. For Meghan, it was crystal clear in that moment how impactful wine could be. The wine created a lasting sensory impression on her and evoked pure joy and celebrations of taste. Thirsty to learn more, she jumped feet-first into the opportunity to work at a high-end steakhouse in NYC. In tandem with her sommelier education at the Sommelier Society of America, she grew into her new job and quickly moved herself up to head wine buyer. But, as our palate changes, so do our goals and dreams, and Meghan found herself thinking about what would come next. Her dream was always to live where the wine was made in the United States, which led her to Napa Valley. She took a job as Sommelier at the famed Brix restaurant, where she was able to interact and build relationships with iconic wine producers. She discovered their wines, studied their methods, and soon became a colleague, welcomed into their wine world. Her community continued to grow, apace with her ambitions. Meghan’s career took a pause when she both started a family and worked to overcome a health issue, but when her son turned seven, she felt ready to jump back into the wine scene. She went back to her foundation of food and wine pairing, hosting events ranging from small groups to larger corporate functions. Her business gradually evolved into a consulting firm, Veritas Consults, offering personalized food and wine events and wine education. At a time when the digital space was exploding and evolving, Meghan produced digital offerings and teachables online for the wine industry. This allowed for more direct interaction with customers giving way for alliances and relationships to flourish within her wine community. Her career transitioned from sommelier to wine consultant. But what would come next? Why not a vintner? Why don’t I make wine, she thought to herself? She reached out to a few trusted friends and wine industry professionals to see if her dream was truly possible. Martin Reyes MW, her colleague and dear friend through their years as wine buyers, and Kirk Venge, winemaker and part of a multi-generational wine family (Robert Parker’s first perfect 100 point score), both emphatically said yes. Kirk then introduced Meghan to Vincent Traverso, a highly reputable winemaker who had just completed his thesis on how to make rosé better in the USA. For Meghan, who wanted to make a rosé as her first wine, everything fell right into place. It was unanimous. It was the right time and the right idea. Why rosé? Firstly, for Meghan, the challenge with USA-made rosé was that it needed improvement. The style lacked character, length, and complexity. “Provence Rosé has it down to a science,” she said. “They have a recipe that works. They use the best grapes, the best methods to create a signature style imitated by other wine regions globally. The challenge is to create a wine that ticks all of those boxes.” Secondly, she regularly tasted big, bold wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon during her daily routine. At the end of the day she craved a brighter, complex character wine with a body to match. As a huge lover of high-acid bright wines, she wanted to create a wine that she could enjoy at the end of her day. Lastly, from a sustainability perspective, with climate change in mind, she felt that a rosé was a more thoughtful approach because the grapes are harvested much earlier than others, which is good for the vines and for production in the day and age of extreme late summer heat and fire seasons. This was her greatest challenge and it was one she met on her own, both conceptually and financially. In 2020, she released her first vintage of M. I have to be honest, what first drew me to her wine was the label. It was so inviting! It was strong and feminine, all rolled into one. I asked Meghan what her inspirations were for the label. She is a great admirer of Mexican artist, Frida Kahlo, for both her use of color and the strength expressed in her art. She envisioned a label with a definitive letter that communicated both strength and growth, a vinous character, representative of the wine. The “M” represents both her name and her birth month of May, as well as the Magic of wine and the Moments that wine creates. She also drew inspiration from a local artist, Kristy Amador, and her drawing of a woman with flowers blooming out of her, finally commissioning Kristy to create a label to match her artistic vision and the character of her wine. Her next wine, to be released this fall, is an M Sparkling, a traditional method Blanc de Blanc from Andersen Valley, where both Mumm and Roederer source their grapes.