Imagine this: wine so vibrant and precise that one sip pulls you straight into the rolling, limestone-rich hills of Rheinhessen – Germany’s most dynamic wine region. At the forefront of this renaissance are two extraordinary young winemakers whose deep personal drive, infectious joy, and fearless creativity are reshaping what German wine can be. This two part article dives into the worlds of winemakers Gesine Roll and Tobias Kramer.
You are standing on a high plateau in Rheinhessen, the wind whispering through vines heavy with promise, overlooking legendary sites like Morstein and Kirchspiel in nearby Westhofen. This is Weingut Weedenborn in Monzernheim – a place where tradition meets bold vision, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme, and the soils are rich in limestone and basalt. Here, a moderate cooling climate and the coolest sites guarantee perfect ripeness, creating wines that burst with energy and precision.
What drives Gesine? A profound belief in patience, humility, and letting exceptional terroir speak for itself.
Her winery is her self-described happy place – a space of determined creativity and genuine warmth that shines through in every bottle and every heartfelt homemade lunch she shares with visitors. Gesine isn’t chasing approval; she’s building a legacy rooted in authenticity and joy. What started as a historic family farm – grandparents raising animals, parents diversifying into other crops – transformed into a pure viticultural gem when Gesine Roll took over in 2005. With ~20 hectares of family-owned vineyards, Gesine has turned heads (and palates) by putting Sauvignon Blanc front and center: a whopping 13 hectares, about 50-65% of the plantings. Rounded out by Chardonnay (some vines dating back to 1992, Germany’s first legal year), Weissburgunder, Riesling, and Pinot Noir, her focus is laser-sharp. From a young age, she was deeply drawn to architecture &exploring design, envisioning environments shaped by form and function. However, at the age of 15, she made the deliberate decision to continue the family tradition, transitioning from architectural pursuits to the heritage and responsibilities of winemaking. She said “had I not followed this path, I would likely have pursued a career in fine woodworking—crafting bespoke pieces from carefully selected timbers, where precision joinery, thoughtful design, and the natural beauty of wood converge to create enduring, handcrafted objects of both utility and artistry.”
And the accolades? In 2024, Gesine was crowned Falstaff Female Winemaker of the Year among many other awards– a huge nod to her vibrant, juicy, expressive whites that are rewriting Rheinhessen’s story beyond Riesling. ONE CORRECTION FOUND: Also several other awards Gault & Millau wine personality of the year -23, Vinum -25 & -24 Best Sauvignon Blanc of the year.
Meeting Gesine is like chatting with a force of nature – humble yet fiercely passionate. Her philosophy? Patience, humility, consequence, passion, and focus. “We want to make passionate, quality wine without complexity,” she says with a smile, shunning trends like non-alcoholic wines or fleeting fads like Pet-Nat. Instead, she lets the terroir speak: those unique limestone soils, high altitudes (200-265m) for cooler temps, slow ripening, and that perfect balance of acidity and aroma – no “green” notes here!
Her style is all about energy and precision: spontaneous fermentation, reductive winemaking, and generous aging. Notably, her Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay follow the same winemaking approach. Top cuvées like “Terra Rossa” (from red limestone sites rich in iron oxide) spend 18-20 months in 500L French oak (60-65% new), plus time on lees and in bottle. The result? Wines that explode with freshness, minerality, and layered complexity – elegant, pure, and utterly drinkable. Gesine said “ to create a great wine, it needs silence.”
We tasted a stunning vertical of Sauvignon Blanc Terra Rossa, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay Reserve, and the pinnacle Grande Réserve – here are the brief notes that captured the moment:
Sauvignon Blanc Terra Rossa
- 2024: Green-ripe fruit and elegant – passion fruit, gooseberry, green pepper, grapefruit.
- 2023: So energetic from those red limestone soils, so fresh and alive with ginger and chili – Gesine calls this her best wine so far.
- 2020: Floral and saline with jalapeño, cilantro, honeyed rounder mouthfeel.
- 2016: Richer spice, layered and fascinating
Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (often called Fumé for its smoky oak influence)
- 2023: Creamy self-confidence, oak so well integrated.
- 2020: Reductive with caramel, oatmeal, exotic yogurt notes.
- 2016: Savory lime curd, dried blossom, fattier style but not too opulent – on point with tea leaves.
Chardonnay Reserve
- 2023: Creamy texture, so fresh and fruitier.
- 2020: Creamier with dried peach, roasted nuts – right on point, all tones in perfect harmony.
- 2016: Riper and dried fruit, spicy clove, lemon curd intensity and a coup de coeur for yours truly.
Grande Réserve (more Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc in the blend)
Gesine notes that this needs more silence and time – “Sauvignon Blanc is a louder grape.”
- 2022: Fresh oak more in the front with a spicy finish.
- 2018: Deep, contemplative, evolving beautifully (details unfolding with patience).
It wasn’t always smooth sailing. It took time for Gesine to find her Sauvignon Blanc style. It wasn’t till 2016 that she truly felt confident. Early skeptics asked, “Why Sauvignon Blanc instead of Riesling?” in a region long underrated for premium wines. But Gesine bet on exceptional sites, long aging, and collaboration. As a founder of the “Message in a Bottle” group in 2002 – 25 ambitious young winemakers united to champion Rheinhessen’s chalky terroir – she helped shift perceptions and elevate the entire area. Her signature is long post-fermentation lees aging, and since 2011 she’s been crafting Reserve wines in large 500L.
Today, Weedenborn is celebrated for world-class quality (VDP-recognized, though independent), mentoring the next generation, and proving you can go all-in on one variety and still reflect pure terroir.
As if the wines weren’t generous enough, Gesine surprised us by preparing a beautiful lunch herself – a warm, heartfelt touch that made the visit feel like being welcomed into a friend’s home. The highlight was her signature quiche, golden and fluffy, packed with seasonal vegetables and just the right creamy richness. Paired with a crisp glass of Sauvignon Blanc, it was the perfect savory counterpoint to the afternoon’s vibrant tasting – grounding, comforting, and utterly delicious. It truly felt like the ideal close to a day filled with inspiration, flavor, and genuine hospitality.
Spending time with Gesine Roll at Weedenborn feels electric – a tale of quiet defiance, deep roots, and soaring ambition. Gesine Roll isn’t just crafting wines; she’s building a legacy, one thrilling, mineral-kissed sip (and bite) at a time. If you’re exploring Rheinhessen, put this on your must-visit list. Trust me, you’ll leave inspired… and thirsty for more! 🍷
Next stop, an evening with Tobias Kramer of Weingut Krämer.
