Pour, Adore, Repeat in Lugana- White Wine Elegance

Nestled along the southern shores of Lake Garda, Lugana DOC stands as Italy’s most refined lakeside white wine appellation. Spanning the border between Lombardy and Veneto in northern Italy, this designated area forms a narrow, crescent-shaped corridor encompassing five key communes: Sirmione, Desenzano del Garda, Pozzolengo, Lonato del Garda, and Peschiera del Garda. Framed by morainic hills shaped by ancient glaciers, Lugana’s distinctive white-clay and limestone soils impart remarkable minerality and aging potential to its signature grape, Turbiana (locally known as Trebbiano di Lugana). In essence: a sophisticated white wine region, just 20 minutes from Lake Garda’s crystalline waters.

Having explored vintages from Umbria’s robust Sagrantino vineyards to the sunlit hills of Chianti in Tuscany, I arrived in Lugana last autumn with keen anticipation. Hosted by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana and Nonni Marketing, this press trip transcended routine tastings and tours. It offered an immersive tribute to Turbiana—the resilient grape that defines Lugana’s elegant, mineral-driven whites. Over three radiant days, I toured historic cellars, enjoyed locally sourced cuisine, and embraced the serene cadence of the lake. For wine enthusiasts and discerning travelers alike, allow me to guide you through this captivating journey.

Arrival at Le Morette: A Memorable Introduction

Our journey commenced immediately upon arrival at Le Morette. Before alighting from the vehicle, third-generation proprietor Fabio Zenato presented a chilled flute of the estate’s Metodo Classico Brut—a sparkling Turbiana alive with green apple, brioche, and a precise saline finish. The effervescence evoked sunlight dancing across Lake Garda, setting an inviting tone.

Fabio’s dedication mirrors the depth of the estate’s 40 hectares, situated between Garda’s southern shores and the UNESCO-protected Frassino Lake—a habitat for wild ducks (the name Le Morette, meaning “little brunettes,” pays homage to these birds). An introductory masterclass, conducted by JC Viens of Grande Passione, transformed technical terroir discussion into an engaging narrative. With experience spanning Hong Kong’s wine scene to Italian ambassadorships, JC illuminated Lugana’s inter-regional character, its glacial clay-rich soils, and the grape’s Verdicchio lineage. Confirmed by DNA analysis as a distinct variety, Turbiana thrives under the lake’s microclimate: warming Ora winds by day and cooling Pelèr breezes by night, yielding wines of vibrant acidity and refined texture. “Duality in a bottle,” he noted—suitable for casual aperitifs yet capable of graceful evolution.

Notable selections included:

• Ceresela Beat Lugana (Tenuta Le Morette): Pale gold with zesty lemon, white peach, and herbal notes; lively acidity and flinty minerality.
• Zanzibari Lugana (Selva Capuzza): Pineapple, jasmine, and creamy lees-aged texture; medium-bodied with saline persistence.
• I Frati Anselmetti Lugana (Ca’ dei Frati): Ripe pear, apricot, and sage; balanced with creamy apple and almond finesse.
• L’Arbre Magique Lugana (Fratus): Green apple, elderflower, and subtle honey; crisp and herbaceous.
• Marangona Lugana (Cutolo siblings, organic): Spring florals, orchard fruit, and mineral depth; harmonious and savory.

Fabio then led a comprehensive tour of the 60-hectare certified organic estate. We traversed sunlit vineyards and descended into cool underground cellars featuring stainless steel and sustainable innovations. Originating as a vine nursery in the 1950s, the family grafts Turbiana onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks—a process Fabio demonstrated with precision, underscoring the blend of tradition and science that sustains the region. The modern winery integrates geothermal systems within a restored 19th-century farmhouse, employing gravity-fed presses and subtle oak influence.

Lunch, hosted by Fabio, featured seafood saffron risotto with lake perch and shrimp, paired seamlessly with Le Morette’s portfolio. He recounted the family’s postwar legacy and Turbiana’s central role in Lugana’s identity.

• Mandolara Lugana DOC 2024: Straw-yellow with pear, peach, and bay leaf; vibrant salinity.
• Benedictus Lugana Riserva DOC 2023: Honeyed almond, toasted hazelnut, and smoky minerality; velvety and award-winning.
• Lugana Riserva DOC 2022: Steel-aged with white pepper nuance; elegant.
• Lugana Riserva 2019: Complex with nutty depth and honeyed notes; limited production offering exceptional value.

Evening Elegance at Hotel Piccola Vela

We settled at Hotel Piccola Vela in Desenzano del Garda—a contemporary lakeside retreat offering minimalist accommodations, private beach access, an infinity pool blending with the horizon, and a spa featuring vinotherapy. It provided an ideal respite.

As dusk approached, we gathered on the rooftop with Cà Lojera’s Belle Metodo Classico Brut Zero 2018—a zero-dosage sparkler from 50-year-old vines, aged 36 months on lees. Its focused citrus, mineral precision, and fine mousse harmonized with the sunset.

The evening culminated in a welcome Apericena hosted by the Lugana Board of Directors. Amid convivial exchange, we sampled offerings from Tenuta Corbari, Pasini San Giovanni, Montonale, Fraccaroli, Citari, Ca’ dei Frati, Sansonina, Cantina Coarse, and Zenato—ranging from delicate sparklers to structured reserves.

Key tasting notes:

1. Ca’ Lojera Lugana Superiore “Dosaggio Zero” 2018: Lemon zest, chalk, and razor finish; ideal with oysters.
2. Tenuta Corbari “Luca” Lugana 2022: White peach, almond blossom; silky and unoaked.
3. Citari “Sorgente” & “Conchiglia”: Sorgente—grapefruit and graphite; Conchiglia—creamy peach and salty almond.
4. Sansonina “Fermentazione Spontanea” 2024: Wild-yeast brioche and yellow plum; unfiltered character.
5. Zenato “Sergio Zenato” Lugana Riserva 2019: Hazelnut, golden apple; polished with aging potential.
6. Ca’ dei Frati “Brolettino” Lugana 2021: Mango, vanilla, smoky flint; full-bodied elegance.
7. Ca’ Lojera Lugana 2023: Citrus, jasmine, saline kiss; accessible sophistication.
8. Fraccaroli Lugana Riserva 2017: Toasted brioche, honeyed flint; structured for cellaring.
9. Pasini San Giovanni “Buscaldo” Lugana Riserva 2019: Smoked pineapple, vanilla; limited (888 bottles).
10. Pasini San Giovanni “Sopravento” Lugana: Citrus, herbs, chalk; vibrant and pure.
11. Montonale “Orestilla” Lugana 2021: Peach, honey, wet stone; layered and refined.
12. Pasini San Giovanni “81” Lugana Brut Metodo Classico: Lemon curd, brioche, seashell salinity; celebratory.

Lugana DOC represents more than a wine region—it embodies a harmonious balance of tradition, innovation, and natural beauty. From the meticulous grafting at Le Morette to the panoramic tastings at Hotel Piccola Vela, Turbiana reveals remarkable versatility: crisp enough for casual enjoyment, yet profound in its capacity to evolve. With 60–70% of production exported to discerning markets in Germany and the United States, Lugana maintains an aura of understated excellence.

For wine professionals and collectors, these bottlings offer intellectual depth and exceptional value. For travelers, the communes along Lake Garda promise cultural richness, culinary authenticity, and restorative landscapes. This press trip reaffirmed Lugana’s quiet authority in Italy’s viticultural canon—an invitation to savor elegance in its purest form. Whether planning a vineyard pilgrimage or seeking the perfect white for your table, let Lugana be your next discovery.

Day two next!