Nestled on the south bank of the Douro River in Vila Nova de Gaia, just across from the vibrant city of Porto, Graham’s Lodge stands as a beacon of Portugal’s rich Port wine heritage. As part of the esteemed Symington Family Estates—one of the world’s leading Port producers—I recently had the privilege of touring this historic site. What unfolded was not just a visit to a winery, but an immersive dive into centuries of tradition, innovation, and the alchemy of aging wine. Guiding me through this captivating experience was our gracious host, Nuno R. Silva, whose passion and expertise brought the story of Graham’s to life.
The Brand: Symington and Graham’s—A Legacy of Excellence
Symington Family Estates is a powerhouse in the Port world, owning iconic houses like Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, and Cockburn’s. Founded by the Symington family, who trace their roots back to the 19th century, the company is now in its fifth generation of family ownership. They are the largest vineyard owners in the Douro Valley, with over 1,000 hectares spread across 26 Lodges (estates), producing everything from vintage Ports to innovative blends.
Graham’s, acquired by Symington in 1970, is celebrated for its opulent, fruit-forward Ports that embody romance and exuberance. As Nuno explained during our tour, Graham’s stands out for its colorful, approachable style—think sweeter, more vibrant expressions compared to the drier, more restrained profiles of sister brands like Dow’s. The brand’s motto, “Ne Oublie” (Never Forget), honors its Scottish founder, Andrew James Symington, who arrived in Porto in 1882. Today, Symington’s isn’t just about Port; it’s a multifaceted empire encompassing table wines from regions like Douro, Vinho Verde and Alentejo, plus a thriving wine tourism arm that includes three visitor centers, restaurants, and even a cocktail bar in Porto’s city center.
What sets Symington apart is their commitment to sustainability—they were the first in the Port industry to achieve B Corp certification, emphasizing environmental, social, and financial responsibility. From sponsoring firefighters in the Douro to reducing water usage in their cellars, their ethos resonates with modern wine lovers who seek quality with a conscience.
The History: From River Barrels to Global Icon
Stepping into Graham’s Lodge feels like entering a living museum. The cellars, dating back to the 19th century, house an astonishing diversity of wines aging in casks and bottles—from 1882 vintages to the latest 2024 harvests. Nuno painted a vivid picture of Port’s history: born from the synergy between the rugged Douro Valley vineyards and Porto’s urban trade hubs, Port wine evolved as a fortified style to withstand long sea voyages to Britain, thanks to the world’s oldest alliance between Portugal and the UK (dating back 650 years).
We wandered through rows of “small” casks (holding thousands of liters each) and massive pipes, where wines from over 140 years mingle in a symphony of blends. Nuno highlighted how the Douro’s schist soils—acting like solar panels to retain heat—contribute to the slow, concentrated maturation of grapes. He shared tales of the region’s challenges: climate change pushing vineyards to higher altitudes for freshness, and historical hurdles like phylloxera in the late 1800s that decimated vines but spurred innovation.
A highlight was the “Very Old Tawny” section, where hidden gems like the 1882 Ne Oublie—a wine over 140 years old—evoke indestructibility. Nuno recounted how Andrew James Symington received barrels as his first payment upon arriving in Porto, some of which have survived wars, floods, and time itself. This isn’t just wine; it’s a generational handoff, with Symington producing Ports today that won’t peak until 2040 or beyond.
We also touched on evolution: from foot-treading in lagares (traditional granite tanks) to modern robotic systems that mimic human pressure for precision. Blending, Nuno emphasized, is the true art—combining varieties, plots, and even years to create harmony. It’s alchemy, as he put it, blending patience, experience, and a touch of magic.
The Tasting Experience: A Symphony of Flavors
No visit to Graham’s is complete without tasting, and under Nuno’s expert guidance, we sampled a curated lineup that showcased the brand’s versatility and the Symington portfolio’s depth. Starting in the cool, dimly lit bottle maturation cellar—home to vintages from the 1860s—we moved to a private tasting room overlooking the river. Each Port told a story, with Nuno weaving in tales of harvests, vintages, and the Douro’s soul.
Throughout the tour, Nuno R. Silva shone as the perfect ambassador. With over a decade in the industry—including stints in wine tourism and sales for Symington—Nuno’s enthusiasm is infectious. Hailing from Porto, he weaves personal anecdotes (like his father’s initial skepticism toward Port cocktails) with deep knowledge of viticulture, climate impacts, and blending artistry.
What struck me most was Nuno’s ability to demystify the nuances of Port without diminishing its magic. Whether explaining single-Lodge vintages or sustainability initiatives, he made complex topics accessible and engaging. His pride in Graham’s—calling it “colorful and romantic”—mirrors his warm, approachable style. By the end, it felt like chatting with an old friend over exceptional wine.
- Graham’s Blend No. 5 White Port: Crafted for cocktails like Port & Tonic, this white Port dazzles with bright citrus and green apple notes, underpinned by floral hints of honeysuckle. Its lower sugar and crisp, aromatic profile make it a refreshing, versatile choice for modern mixology or chilled sipping.
- Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port: This ruby Port, named for the cooper’s six-grape mark signaling top quality, bursts with juicy blackberry and cherry, with a hint of spice. Aged 3-6 years in large vats, its vibrant fruit and soft tannins make it an approachable crowd-pleaser, ideal with dark chocolate or a casual evening.
- Graham’s 2016 Vintage Port: Youthful and exuberant, this vintage radiates with vivid floral notes—think violets and lavender—entwined with ripe blackberry and cassis. Its silky texture and bright acidity promise a long future, yet it’s irresistibly drinkable now, capturing the Douro’s sunny slopes in every sip.
- Graham’s 1994 Vintage Port: A mature gem, this Port unfurls smoky tendrils of coffee and molasses, layered with dried fig and a touch of cocoa. Its velvety richness and lingering finish reflect decades of careful aging, evoking the depth of a well-worn leather book.
- Warre’s 1980 Vintage Port: From Symington’s sister brand, this Port showcases robust tannins that still hold firm, balanced by fresh acidity. Expect dark cherry and plum, with hints of tobacco and spice, delivering a structured yet lively sip that honors Warre’s elegant style
- Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port: A golden-hued delight, this Tawny offers sultana, dried peach, and toffee notes, with a creamy texture. Its balanced sweetness and vibrant acidity make it a versatile match for desserts or simply savoring solo.
- Graham’s 40 Year Old Tawny Port: Concentrated and complex, this Tawny weaves sultana, dried peach, toffee, and a whisper of salted almond. Its silky, nutty depth, honed by decades in cask, feels like a warm embrace from the Douro’s history.
- Graham’s 50 Year Old Tawny Port: A rare treasure with only 600 bottles released, this Tawny is astonishingly fresh yet profoundly layered. Notes of caramelized orange, hazelnut, and spice dance on the palate, with a refined elegance that defies its half-century age—a testament to Graham’s mastery.
- Graham’s Single Harvest 1974 Tawny Port: This single-harvest Tawny, also known as a Colheita, is a time capsule of rich blackberry, plum, leather, and spice. Its concentrated, velvety texture and lingering finish capture the essence of a stellar year, aged to perfection over decades.
The day concluded with a memorable lunch at Vinum, Graham’s elegant restaurant perched with a stunning view of the Douro River and Porto’s skyline. We savored a grilled whole John Dory, its flaky flesh complemented by vibrant heirloom tomatoes and a trio of croquettes—crisp outside, creamy within. Paired with a 2022 Loureiro from Ameál, this crisp white wine revealed zesty lime, peach blossom, and a mineral edge, harmonizing beautifully with the seafood and enhancing the panoramic vista.
The experience was sensory and emotional: the cool cellar air, the scent of aged oak, and wines that transported us through time. If you’re a wine enthusiast planning a trip to Porto, book a tour at Graham’s Lodge (part of Symington’s portfolio) and request Nuno as your guide. It’s not just a visit; it’s a portal to Portugal’s soulful wine world.
