The Elegance of Gonet Sulcova

You can't judge an apple

By looking at the tree

You can't judge honey

By looking at the bee

You can't judge a daughter

By looking at the mother

And you can't tell the book

By looking at the cover

You Can’t Judge A Book By It’s Cover - Bo Didley

The reason why I selected these lyrics are because I had a preconceived notion as to how this wine would smell and taste being Blanc de Blancs champagne. I had a textbook Blanc de Blanc profile in mind prior to having my ideas fly completely out the window. As the old adage goes Never Assume …

For the Gonet Sulcova’s, family is everything and everything is family. In 1985 Davy Sulcova and Vincent Gonet established the estate in Épernay in order to create their family brand Gonet-Sulcova. Their children Yan and Karla currently run the estate. A family domaine that is involved in every aspect of their champagnes - they WILL NOT release a champagne unless it is up to their high standards. It’s a fierce (and admirable in my opinion) sense of pride, a passion and a love for what they do throughout the three generations. Their sustainably farmed 20 hectares are located in Côte des Blancs (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru and Oger Grand Cru), Montgueux and Loches-sur-Ource. Their philosophy of low dosage and extended ageing requirements showcase the distinctive characteristics of the terroir.

NOTE: This avant-garde family broke tradition with not only their labels but the shape of the bottles as well. All of their labels were designed by Davy Sulcova as a homage to her love of art nouveau and the Roaring 20’s vibe of the jazz dance age, the flapper girl, speakeasies and fashionable party lifestyle, with the exception of Cuvée Montgueux (designed as a dedication to the region).

Champagne Gonet-Sulcova Gaia Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, France

12% abv

Pours into the glass a rich yellow color. The bubbles are just so excited to jump out of the glass and meet you with intense aromas of lemon curd, golden apple, white blossom, vanilla, hazelnuts, toasty brioche and a chalky minerality.

One sip and I was completely seduced by its charm. The aromas are present in the flavors as well as deep lemon curd, honeysuckle, pastry, vanilla, and long finish of hazelnut and minerality. The flavors are balanced with the low dosage and vibrant acidity. It has such a creamy and rich texture with a very long nutty mineral finish thanks to the extended minimum of 9 years of ageing and use of oak barrels. It’s an elegant yet rich and powerful champagne wrapped into a tidy bow of beauty.

I paired it with one of my favorite salmon dishes - Salmon tartare with fresh chives and toasted crostini.