Hospices de Beaune & Beyond

What is better, the anticipation of the unknown OR the moment of discovery of the actual surprise….

There are few wine experiences that have left me moved. An unexpected winery visit led to a magical experience.

Hospices de Beaune was established as a «wine hospital», and today has five centuries of wine heritage behind its name. The story begins in 1433 following the 100 years war. Nicolas Rolin, the Chancellor of Burgundy, wanted to build a hospital for the poor and oppressed, inspired by the great gods of Flanders and Paris. Thanks to his extensive knowledge, he began the construction of the Hospices de Beaune, a masterpiece that will become one of the most prestigious historical monuments in Burgundy. In 1457, Jean Guillotte le Verrier made the first donation of vines to the Hôtel-Dieu: it was a way for patients and families to thank the hospital, to ensure its financial endurance as well as the longevity of the family name, a custom that continues today. Prestigious vintages often have the name of the family that donated the plots. These plots now comprise 60 hectares, 85% of which are classified as first and grand crus, with the remaining 15% classified as village appellation. Note that 1.4% of the wines produced are Grands Crus, 10.2% Premiers Crus and 37.3% Appellations Villages and 51.1% Appellations Régionales. The majority of the 50 hectares of Pinot Noir include the appellations Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Corton, Savigny, Auxey-Duresses, Santenay, Pernand-Vergelesses, Echezeaux, Mazis-Chambertin, Clos de La Roche. The remaining 10 hectares of Chardonnay are planted in Chablis, Meursault, Pouilly-Fuissé, Corton Charlemagne and Puligny-Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet. One of the aspects that make the wines of the Domaine des Hospices so exciting and sought after, beyond their prestigious locations and their small yields, is the fact that they are only available at a large charity auction held on the third Sunday of November since 1859. The proceeds from the sale helped improve the hospital’s equipment and preserve the Hôtel Dieu.

Fast forward to this beautiful day of walking in the cobbled streets of Beaune: my dear friend Nathalie, guided me to a hidden corner nestled in a pedestrian square between cafes and shops. We crossed a narrow entrance to be greeted by three smiling faces…. And it took me a while to realize where I was and who I was meeting, and to realize the magnitude of the moment as a woman passionate about wine. So I had the pleasure of meeting Ludivine, Matthieu and Frederic. Ludivine is the estate manager and also the first female winemaker of the Hospice in 160 years of its history. The role of Matthieu and Frédéric (Romane & Clément) will be explained in the second part of this series. Ludivine is therefore involved daily in the supervision of the 117 different plots and in the coordination of the activities and efforts of the 23 salaried winegrowers to create 51 unique vintages (33 red and 18 white). Each winemaker maintains small plots of about 2.5 hectares, following sustainable and organic practices important for the Hospice de Beaune. Its goal is to create in each bottle an expression of the uniqueness of each climate & terroir. It is a complex network of blending of different terroirs within the same appellation that maintains the unique identity of the Domaine des Hospices de Beaune wines. The underground cellar is located under the historic Château de Beaune, with a unique collection of over 2000 bottles of 19th century wines. The high-tech winery began in 2015: the grapes are transferred by gravity, pressing and fermentation take place, and aging is expertly mastered so that the wines reach the required taste, structure and flavor. Domaine des Hospices de Beaune et Romane & Clément are two different entities with common elements - the people and the vines. Their strategy is simple - to produce wines from the most beautiful terroirs in the region.

The story continues with Romane & Clément...

The story continues from the previous article about the Hospices de Beaune. Domaine des Hospices de Beaune et Romane & Clément are two different entities with common elements - people and vines. Their strategy is simple - to produce wines from the most beautiful terroirs in the region. Romane & Clément buys grapes from the winemakers of the Hospices de Beaune to produce wines intended for the exclusive restaurants and to be one of the most beautiful wine specialty shops in France.

It is crucial for Matthieu, as a Burgundian and a winemaker, to keep our feet on the ground and connect to the ancestral connection of the region. This connection is ever present in your blood and soul. Seeing the wine evolve from one year to the next is a sensation that is truly extraordinary, a carnal emotion. The role of winemaking is shared by Matthieu and Ludivine. Frédéric is responsible for operations. The underground cellar of the Hospices de Beaune also serves as a natural place for the storage of Romane & Clément wines. We were escorted by Matthieu to the place where the barrels work their magic, for a taste of 5 different vintages. Like a newborn, each wine is treated with delicacy, attention, rigor, wonder, solemnity. As mentioned, these wines are produced in small batches, and Matthieu explains each vintage, the terroir and the winemaking techniques for each cuvée. In short, they produce wines from their own vineyards as well as from the vineyards he oversees and bought their grapes. We discussed terroirs, winemaking techniques, aging processes, and the unique characteristics. personality of each wine and the personalized care given to each wine.

Here is our unforgettable tasting of Romane & Clément:

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru 2020 - bottle 41/444
Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Mouches 2021 - bottle 2/209
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champonnets 2020 - bottle 183/285
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 2019 - bottle 309/429
Corton Renardes Grand Cru 2019 - bottle 5/288

I could provide tasting notes, taste, sensations, beauty of wines. Honestly, the most striking element for me was the magic of the moment, the warm welcome and the camaraderie of wine lovers, all this lived in the depths of the cellars under the streets of Beaune, surrounded by history and sleeping beauty. It was an experience I would always cherish. Thank you again for this dive into the secrets of a historic producer, and this meeting today with these magnificent wines. At the next opportunity.