The Colors of the Rainbow of Champagne Marie Courtin

Very seldomly in life do we have the opportunity to sit down one-on-one with a person whom we hold in the highest regard. The anticipation of that possibility, the excitement of that momentous moment? What will I ask? How will she be? You build it up so much in your mind, that when you do actually have the opportunity to sit for hours on end with this incredible woman in their cozy salon, (who ends up being the most genuine, humble, engaging and just plain lovely?), the significance of that moment is blown into another universe. That was my experience, the honor that I had spending time with Dominique Moreau.

Champagne Marie Courtin is located in the Polisot village of Côte des Bar, Champagne. Dominque established the estate in 2005 and named it after her grandmother, Marie Courtin, lovingly referred to as a salt-of-the-earth woman. Her 2.5 hectares are mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with a small portion of Pinot Blanc. The southernly area of Aube temperatures are favorable for the 40-45 year old massale-selection Pinot Noir as well as the clay-limestone soils with bands of Kimmeridgian for the power and minerality of Chardonnay.

Dominique Moreau (and her husband Roland of Champagne Piollot Père et Fils, whom I also had the pleasure of meeting and tasting his champagnes) focus on champagnes from very low yields, single vineyard, single variety and vintage, zero dosage champagnes all farmed biodynamically, made with zero intervention.

Of note she was certified in 2007 and is part of the renowned Renaissance des Appellations, founded by biodynamic pioneer Nicolas Joly, following the strictest biodynamic practices. The grapes are all harvested by hand. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts. Her mantra is, let nature guide the wine’s character. Her dedication and care in the vineyards and her winemaking also include spiritual elements and techniques.

For example the pendulum changes its natural rhythm based on the energy emitted from the living being, be it a person, the vine or the wine. The names of the wines carry a spiritual significance, for example “Résonance” refers to the the energy of the earth and sky that affects the vines and the grapes that they produce.

Our discussions included being a female and a biodynamic winemaker before it was trendy, how things have evolved for better or worse since their start as winemakers in 80s, their philosophies of viticulture and winemaking, the beauty of nature, reflected in each and every wine they have created. We tasted a wide range of her champagnes and compared the different characters of different Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-focused champagnes, one fermented in stainless steel, barriques and amphorae.

I could have honestly sat there all day with her and never run out of topics to discuss. To have the opportunity to talk with renowned winemakers about their decisions and their experiences behind these methods was an encounter that I will never forget. Dominique and Roland are real, down-to-earth, truly passionate winemakers who deeply care about what they do and their impact on the environment.

Her champagnes are very singular in every respect. She is the only person who can make those champagnes. They’re just plain wonderful in every aspect possible, charmingly beautiful. It was a spiritual experience in every way - the energy of their champagnes have life, period.

I learned in my time at Dominque’s winery, that it’s not merely what she does, it’s fundamental part of who she is - her passion, being and soul.